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-rascal-

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Everything posted by -rascal-

  1. That and if the blocks on the CPU and/or GPU is poorly mounted, and is overheating, that could be a possibility too. @RockstaYT the liquid can be flowing fine, but if the GPU / CPU is overheating, then that doesn't mean anything. What brand/model waterblock do you have on the GPU? What brand/model waterblock do you have on the CPU? We've had users here mount a EKwb (?) on a RTX 2000-series GPU improperly before. One case, the thermal pads were installed wrong, causing the block to sit too high, making bad contact.
  2. Locked CPU, so overclocking is limited / no possible. It Turbo Boosts up to 3.6 GHz, so you *could* set it so it runs at turbo speed constantly. You're not going to get much more than that, though -- maybe 100 ~ 200 MHz more by tweaking the BCLK like what @unclewebb mentioned.
  3. What?! RTX 2070 Super has 8GB of GDDR6 VRAM for itself. It's RIGHT ON the graphics card....that's not system RAM. The 'Dedicated GPU Memory' is how much of that 8GB *ON* the GPU is being used.
  4. What RAM do you have now? 'Zen 3' (aka 4000-series) will stick with socket AM4, and will work with existing B450 / X470 / B550 / X570 motherboards. It was suggested that 'Zen 3+' (aka 5000-series) will have DDR5 support, and USB 4.0 -- those were the major additions. Doing that will require a socket change. Given how AMD stated socket AM4 is supported until 2020, makes sense the 2021 / 2022 release will be a new socket, and new chipset.
  5. If you need more RAM, get it now, or when they go on sale. You can get 16GB (8GB X 2) kits for under $100. If they are compatible with your existing one, just add another 16GB kit to your existing 16GB set. You can't use DDR5 RAM in a DDR4 motherboard anyways -- assuming you are using DDR4. If you want to use DDR5 RAM, you'll either need to wait for Ryzen 5000 series, or whatever Intel has to offer in 2021 / 2022.
  6. Did you test the system to make sure it it working (e.g. no faulty parts) before putting it under a custom water loop? It could be overheating part (e.g. poorly mounted CPU / CPU block), or faulty part from factory...
  7. Yes, that is perfectly normal. The more available RAM you have, Windows will use it. With a couple of apps opened in the background (Discord, Twitch, Steam), system monitoring software, and a few Chrome tabs, my system sits at around ~5GB used (with 32GB of total RAM).
  8. Addressable RGB (ARGB) accessories are 3-pin, and use the "ADD_GEN2" header. ARGB headers / accessories use +5v. RGB accessories are 4-pin, and those would be the "RGB_HEADER1" and "RGB_HEADER2." These use +12v. ARGB allows you to potentially control EACH individual LED within a strip or fan -- you can have a multi-color LED strip or fan. RGB you cannot control each individual LED -- for example, if you apply the color red to the "RGB_HEADER1" everything connected to it is red. ARGB LED strip: RGB LED strip (one color at a ti
  9. For the sake of your PC's components, please do not get a NZXT H500 / H510. It's got a sleek look, BUT the airflow design is pretty horrible...the suffocating front panel / little ventilation holes.
  10. The difference is, your Corsair SF 450W is a upper quality / tier PSU, while his Cooler Master 500W is lower quality / grade PSU. Your statement is true, though, a 500W will be fine -- in terms of the wattage. Did you buy this Cooler Master Watt Lite PSU new recently? Are you able to return it still, or it is too late? It's an barebones PSU, and in terms of build quality, and voltage / power regulation, it's not very good. On our LTT PSU Tier list, it is considered a 'Tier D'. 38A on a single +12v rail, it should be enough. Plu
  11. In your CPU-Z screenshot, your DRAM is already running at DDR4-3000 MHz. DDR4 RAM is double-data rate, so 1500 MHz actual = 3000 MHz effective. Ryzen does not like odd-numbered RAM timings, so CL15 --> CL16. Or you run it at CL 14. AMD Ryzen CPUs and "geardown mode"
  12. I'm not too sure about water cooling suppliers in Canada (to avoid the 20% ~ 30% extra cost from the US). I've only order / purchased parts directly from EKwb a few times, but that was before this pandemic crisis... Will have to see what other LTT members have to say...at the moment...
  13. Where are you located? $600 USD, or other currency? Not saying he needs to sped $150 on a PSU. He can spend $40 ~ $60 (10%) of his budget or an ACTUAL mid-tier (e.g. Tier C / B B+) 450W ~ 550W PSU. Considering the PSU / GPU / motherboard shortage due to the COVID-19 Pandemic...it is a bad time to build a PC now. Manufacturers can't even get space on shipping crates because Shipping costs up to 5x more right now Cannot get space on shipping creates because medical supplies is priority #1 Reduced amount of worker
  14. The blocks for the reference design PCBs are the most "universal", and typically the reference boards are the cards they gets water-cooled. This is applies to nVidia GPUs, too. Obviously, you can't...say... use a reference PCB 5700 XT waterblock for a ASUS ROG StriX 5700 XT, because the PCB is completely different. Which 5700 XT are you planning to get? EDIT: Also know that some 5700 XTs with custom AIB / vendor heatsink and cooling, STILL uses a reference PCB underneath. You just need to research, which ones they are. EDIT2:
  15. I'll have to look into this a bit, and test with my set-up...see if I can re-create your problem. The green port on the back of the motherboard, and the jack on the front of the case *ARE* linked together in a way. They are both essentially the same green port coming from the Realtek audio chip. Usually, one is enabled, and the other is disabled...why both are going at the same time is weird... Do you still get the arrow with the drop-down menu to select which output / speaker / headphone? EDIT: Looked around online, there are ways to E
  16. I didn't think you were thick headed hahaha. Super happy to hear the temperatures are under control now!
  17. Okay, keep us updated. Just noticed your motherboard is on BIOS version 0614...that BIOS came out in 2018/04/09. Latest version is 2401 from 2019/0718 .... *12* BIOS releases ahead... Also single stick of 16GB RAM, interesting...
  18. It depends on what is running in the background / foreground, and what power saving features / settings are enabled or disabled. For my system, it I set the power plan to 'Balanced', it will jump around randomly...800 MHz, 4.3 GHz, 2.5 GHz, etc. Setting it to 'High Performance', it is more stable sitting at 4.2GHz ~ 4.3 GHz. CPU load hovering at around 2% ~ 5%.
  19. Looks like a through-hole capacitor. If the capacitor broke off, and the two legs/leads are still on the motherboard... It might be a tough fix with these multi-layer motherboards with huge ground planes.
  20. If maximum temperature is ~60*C, then you are perfectly fine. I am suspecting driver / software related as @TofuHaroto suggested. Do you already have the May 2020 Windows 10 update installed (version 2004 of WIndows 10), or didn't upgrade yet? Version 2004 is apparently buggy for *SOME* users. (Then again, here I am with a i7-8086K + Z390 motherboard, and no issues yet on version 2004)
  21. That is normal. You have 16GB of total available RAM. The more RAM you have, the more RAM Windows will use up. With my 32GB of RAM, I am already sitting at ~7.5 GB used. Okay, Google Chrome is using 1.2GB, Microsoft Teams is using 0.6GB, and Antimalware is 0.7GB 1.2GB + 0.6GB + 0.7GB = 2.5GB 7.5GB - 2.5 GB = 5GB With nothing / little opened. Similar to you.
  22. I'm telling him to tweak the GPU voltage, and having him report back... We'll see what he gets, so you have some kind of reference.
  23. At stock settings, 89*C ~ 90*C, sometimes upt to 92*C is okay. Do you have the Gigabyte 5700 XT Gaming OC, or the Aorus 5700 XT? One of my friends have a Gigabyte Gaming OC 5700 XT, and was getting similar Junction temperatures....actually a bit higher because his room was like 28*C+, and poor case airflow at the time. His fans were on Auto, and left voltage at untouched.
  24. No. According to AMD, Junction temperature is safe up until 110*C. Further reviewer analysis suggests 104*C / 105*C or under is best. Again, CONSTANT 92*C may not be good, but SUDDEN BURSTS to 92*C is okay. If you read my last response, undervolting the GPU WILL drop the Junction temperature down significantly. I saw a ~20*C drop in Junction temperature by reducing the stock voltage from 1200 mV to 1100 mV.
  25. No, brief spikes to 95*C ~ 104*C is fine, but of course, lower is always better.
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