HristoBB

Hey guys i want to show u something that i found and have proof on it that using liquid metal is actually pretty dangerous and not just for the conductivity,but because it dries up overtime. 
I have an Asus Pro gaming aura 970 motherboard paired with FX 8350 which i have overclocked to 4.5Ghz at 1.3250V stable. Also i had a GTX 780 which died from the liquid metal being absorbed from the copper heatsink over time and it overheated and died. 
Today i have a R9 280x which i also tried with liquid metal with no luck and no temperature decrease at all over the previous MX-4 . 
The thing is they told u that the Liquid metal is not safe to use on Aluminum but it's actually more than that.U shouldn't use it on bare copper too because it makes a reaction with the cooper and the copper absorbs it.. When the gallium contacts pure copper, the metals irreversibly alloy.This reaction proceeds until there is no more copper or all the gallium is consumed..
The reaction is: Ga + Cu → CuGa2 [67%] + Cu3Ga [11%]. ( + Ga2O3 [12%])
That means liquid metal will literally eat into the copper until the gallium is gone, and the resulting copper-gallium alloy is a silver-ish color. Yes, - in case you are wondering - the gallium in liquid metal reacts this way despite the fact that there are other metal stabilizers present in Liquid Metal. 

I had liquid metal installed on my FX 8350 for like 6 months now and i started seeing the temps going way too high where they've never been before even with a conventional thermal paste.So before the metal drying out completely on me and causing anymore damage i quickly disassembled my rig only to find out that the CPU and my Be Quiet Pure Rock 120 cooler has been fused together.. 
I tried somehow to pull the lever on the motherboard socket so i can remove the cooler with the CPU attached to it without causing damage and using a fine knife i succeeded in separating the CPU form the cooler. 
As i thought the Liquid metal has dried up but not only that.. It left a nasty rock solid residue on both the cooler and the CPU which i then needed to sand down then Lap both surfaces and polish them to get rid of the liquid metal.
All that costed me like 2 to 3 hours to make it properly and without damaging my gear.
After applying the Mx-4 everything was working fine like it should.. 
Unfortunately i have no pics from installing the liquid metal for the 1st time so i can show u that it is properly installed and this is not my mistake.But i've been working on computers for more than 5 years now and i'm somewhat skilled so i guess you guys can trust me on this. 
I literally spend like whole day in research for the Liquid metal datasheets for the ingredients and how they work/react etc. 
It is definitely not something i would recommend putting inside a PC build and definitely you should avoid even tho it provides better thermal conductivity over conventional paste. It is only for a short period of time depending on what surface you are installing it.
I think there would be no problem if the pure/bare copper is nickel plated or at least that will slow the process  

Hey guys i have a Sapphire Nitro + RX 580 which i currently run with a Sapphire Limited Edition BIOS which bumps my core clocks to 1450Mhz and it's rock stable with 1.180V. 
I tried to compare the Bios from RX590 and there's just no difference between the two of them. Just the Clock speed is 1560. Also a little tighter ram timings. 
AMD Says that 590 uses a 12nm silicone,but both 590 and 580 has 232mm die's and both have 5700mil transistors. Also TDP is the same so we can't speak of lithography difference here. 

Soooo yeaaah. My RX580 has Dual bios and i'm not concerned about bricking my card and i tried to flash RX590 bios ...  AAAnd voila it worked ! The PC rebooted fine . I didn't even had to reinstall drivers. 
Checking in GPU-Z it still says i have RX580 series,but the default clock is now 1560Mhz. 
So it worked it's stable in windows,but as u can guess it is clearly not stable in games although i can now bump the voltage to 1.212 now instead of 1.200 which makes the card stable at 1500mhz and no more. 
This gave me about 5 to 10% percent in Far Cry 5 benchmark over the Sapphire Limited Edition 1450mhz Core and overclocked memory to 2100 with mem timing on Lvl 2. 
Temps are not that much higher. I have custom profile which won't let the core go over 65 degrees. 

What do u think about it ? 
 

Hey guys i want to show u something that i found and have proof on it that using liquid metal is actually pretty dangerous and not just for the conductivity,but because it dries up overtime. 
I have an Asus Pro gaming aura 970 motherboard paired with FX 8350 which i have overclocked to 4.5Ghz at 1.3250V stable. Also i had a GTX 780 which died from the liquid metal being absorbed from the copper heatsink over time and it overheated and died. 
Today i have a R9 280x which i also tried with liquid metal with no luck and no temperature decrease at all over the previous MX-4 . 
The thing is they told u that the Liquid metal is not safe to use on Aluminum but it's actually more than that.U shouldn't use it on bare copper too because it makes a reaction with the cooper and the copper absorbs it.. When the gallium contacts pure copper, the metals irreversibly alloy.This reaction proceeds until there is no more copper or all the gallium is consumed..
The reaction is: Ga + Cu → CuGa2 [67%] + Cu3Ga [11%]. ( + Ga2O3 [12%])
That means liquid metal will literally eat into the copper until the gallium is gone, and the resulting copper-gallium alloy is a silver-ish color. Yes, - in case you are wondering - the gallium in liquid metal reacts this way despite the fact that there are other metal stabilizers present in Liquid Metal. 

I had liquid metal installed on my FX 8350 for like 6 months now and i started seeing the temps going way too high where they've never been before even with a conventional thermal paste.So before the metal drying out completely on me and causing anymore damage i quickly disassembled my rig only to find out that the CPU and my Be Quiet Pure Rock 120 cooler has been fused together.. 
I tried somehow to pull the lever on the motherboard socket so i can remove the cooler with the CPU attached to it without causing damage and using a fine knife i succeeded in separating the CPU form the cooler. 
As i thought the Liquid metal has dried up but not only that.. It left a nasty rock solid residue on both the cooler and the CPU which i then needed to sand down then Lap both surfaces and polish them to get rid of the liquid metal.
All that costed me like 2 to 3 hours to make it properly and without damaging my gear.
After applying the Mx-4 everything was working fine like it should.. 
Unfortunately i have no pics from installing the liquid metal for the 1st time so i can show u that it is properly installed and this is not my mistake.But i've been working on computers for more than 5 years now and i'm somewhat skilled so i guess you guys can trust me on this. 
I literally spend like whole day in research for the Liquid metal datasheets for the ingredients and how they work/react etc. 
It is definitely not something i would recommend putting inside a PC build and definitely you should avoid even tho it provides better thermal conductivity over conventional paste. It is only for a short period of time depending on what surface you are installing it.
I think there would be no problem if the pure/bare copper is nickel plated or at least that will slow the process  

AMD CPU's are soldered and cannot be delided or atleast not safely. Basically u have to heat them to around 200 degrees then remove the IHS and the remaining solder but there is no point in doing that because the solder does the job better than the Liquid metal. 
So i installed it between the cooler and the Cpu IHS which is still a popular method and pretty effective in case like mine where the cpu ihs i soldered. Too bad that the liquid metal didn't stand up for long

And also the Gpu doesn't have IHS so it's basically installing the LM directly onto the GPU die but still it died cause of the reasons i already discussed in the post. 
 

If u have smth like old I3 or Amd  i see no point in upgrading to 1070ti or 1080 because of the bottleneck.There is just no logic i having good cpu and pair it with Gt 710 so that's why i think there is no point in upgrading to a very high end gaming GPU before u have something to back it up.

Motherboard i believe is ROG asus aura 970 pro gaming so it must support those things. I think the limit is 32GB of ram.

I decided to go with the 8350 combo because the motherboard has a lot of functions that my old one didn't.+ the 16gb of ram it is worth it for a little less performance. 

Could be something like a malware that's coming up and using cpu resource every once in a while.. i had something like this before
the other thing that could cause this is defective liquid cooling or just old AIO that doesn't have enough liquid inside or with other words the liquid has evaporated thus leaving air inside the system 
my 4 year old AIO had maybe half of the liquid left inside and would run like 45 degrees idle and every once in a while would rice up to 60 but that takes like 10-15 minutes to rise the temperature. 
Also look at your thermal compound if u have too little maybe it will be good for like idling and maybe not even noticeable while idling but when u put a stress on the cpu it will rice the temperature fast because not having enough thermal paste will restrict thermal conductivity. 

Yes it is glass 
my case has 3 tempered glass panels for sides and front it is Segotep K7 
but i kinda liked the Be Quiet logo on the top of the cooler