Mo5

I mainly recommended that because it opens up a way bigger selection of lenses to AF... if you do D5000 then older non AF-S lenses won't AF but most will still communicate all other info for exposure etc. It's still an ok choice but you have to be more careful what you're getting lens-wise if you want everything to work (if you go too new - AF-P - then that won't work either). With Canon there's really no confusion you get an EF lens and everything will work... and there's more of them on the market.

You can't really go wrong with both Nikon or Canon from that era. Both had really good cameras and a massive amount of lenses to choose from. Canon was the more popular brand so there's usually more selection of used lenses to go by and you can adapt more vintage glass (mainly M42 mount) but Nikon's F mount has been going since like the 60s so that kinda evens it out - though if you're going that route I'd recommend picking up a more pro level body with a built in screw af motor (e.g. D7000). In both cases adapting lenses to modern mirrorless bodies will be no problem. Also another thing worth pointing out with old Canon bodies is that they many used CF cards while pretty much every Nikon was on SD cards. Sony did join in slightly later and they "reused" the old Minolta A mount which also had many great lenses made over the years but honestly they're harder to find in most markets unless you're willing to import and really look for them so I'd kinda avoid that if you're on a tight budget. I used to be a Nikon shooter so I'm more familiar with that system so I'll say picking up a D7000 with a Nikkor 40mm macro would probably cover all your use cases and still fall in budget. Just my quick suggestion.

basically light damage on the front element will not even appear on the final image in many cases but similar amount of damage on the rear element might ruin the image completely. closer the damage is to the sensor the harder it is to correct if that makes sense.

Have you tried booting the other partition? Or just all the ones on the USB. Also on rufus sometimes doing it in dd mode works but the other one doesn't.

One thing I always hoped for when AMD announced Infinity Fabric is that they'd use that to make dual gpu cards again because if it's fast and good enough to connect chiplets inside the cpu together why can't they do that magic to connect the 2 gpus together and make them work like 1.

what about swapping drives around (putting the one from mobo to the adapter)?

have you tried it in different pci-e slots? I feel like there's something that goes wrong when data goes between the cpu pci-e lanes and chipset pci-e lanes but somehow only in one way. could be some bios setting that affects these things too but i can't think of anything on the top of my head.

It's funny how Canon is only protecting the RF mount like this as it shows it clearly doesn't care about the EF-M mount and wants it to quietly and quickly go away.

technically when reducing volume it's better to do it as close to the output as possible to have the strongest signal-to-noise possible so doing it at the amp would actually be preferrable. opposite is true when you're boosting the signal - better to do it as close as possible to the source. but when the setup is as simple as this it shouldn't make too much of a difference.

just don't turn the volume up too much which you shouldn't do anyway to protect your hearing

People who never had WP don't know how good WP actually was.

2. if that's how you want to spend your time go ahead i guess 3. funny because it's probably true 4. what are the odds the rpm speed signal wire is broken... probably close to none but considering the other fan works might be worth checking out. or just ignoring the error 5. just because it overclocked good doesn't mean it's actually a good cpu overall 6. yes. 7. literally can't see the cable but if you say you did then it must be true

1. That's an OEM HP board (MS-7778) that they've designed to take Intel coolers on AMD socket... love when companies engineer weird stuff like that 2. How did you get W11 to install on it? Did you seriously went through all the effort of editing registry just to get it to work. 3. I like the case... it's probably worth more than everything else in the pc 4. Please change that back case fan to something larger 5. That APU was considered to be pretty average if not slow even when it was new. That was 10 years ago. 6. Changing to those side SATA ports would probably make it look a bit tidier 7. I think you didn't plug in the 4 pin EPS power connector that's next to the cpu socket/where you plugged in the back fan (if i'm looking at the right mobo pic) Overall, I give this a solid 4/10 - you're focusing on the wrong things if at all

what you described sounds normal to me tbh. noise levels really depends on the cooler itself and the fan curve profile but 70c sounds fine. now if the fan needs to run at 100% or some insane high speed to keep it like that then you probably need to replace the thermal paste on the gpu.

even if it would somehow provide more cooling (let's entertain that idea) it definitely wouldn't be worth the added noise those tiny, whiny fans add