DakotaWebber

You should probably look at getting a better psu, if youre looking at 1080p gaming you could look for a deal on a rx 580, that will get well over 60 on high settings at 1080[

I believe nvidia can now use freesync as well so there shouldnt be any issues with going either side New amd gpus are set to be released soon too I doubt you will be bottlenecking your gpu with a 6700k, especially at 1440p where the load is on the gpu more than the cpu Why are you actually wanting to upgrade? unless youre feeling you really must upgrade I would wait until new hardware is released for better price to performance.

I mean if you shoved the side panel/window on it might flex the board back by 2mm if you managed to fit it, but Id rather be safe than sorry and get something thats within spec

You could strap some 80mm fans on if you are desperate lol What is the actual model of card? see if you can contact the manufacturer or reseller about a new one or help, you could even try to see if you can update the bios on the card Do temps show properly in software?

It also looks like there might be thermal paste here

Was the pc working at all or was this on first build? What is your motherboard so we can use a reference picture of what you think it should look like? It looks like on the bottom right hole there is something behind it

You will find out quite quickly if your bios isnt working, if your computer is starting you are fine

How are you connected? Wifi? Ethernet? What are your speedtest results?

honestly the amd encoder works just fine, I think everyone kind of does an "nvidia better lol" twist on it, it does but not enough to warrant spending extra on the cards unelss you somehow need that extra bit of fidelity, and if its that important id rather spend that money on a capture card or something

https://www.minitool.com/data-recovery/usb-keeps-disconnecting.html Try the power saving options found in this

Considerable upgrade? not really It would be much more power efficient, if you could somehow sell your 660ti for $60 and get that 950 I would do that

"and can plug into a monitor" Imagine building a pc that you cant plug anything into?? Where are you located and What games you planning on playing? 250usd vs 250aud are quite far apart in terms of pc parts its not hard to build a 250 pc in usd that could somewhat play minecraft but youre not gonna be getting great results for triple A titles

Ryzen 3000XT are being released and Ryzen 4000 series are to be released this year, as well as nvidia 3000 potentially in August If you really wanted to "future proof" as much as possible id wait to get the newer hardware because it would be better for longer or out of the two you gave, if you really wanted future proofing id get the 2080 Ti and 2tb with 16gb, if you find you need more down the track its cheaper to add in the extra rather than swapping a 2080 Super for a 2080 Ti

Depends on how much power your laptop is actually using, the rating is actually 19v Watts = Volts * Amps, that charger would theoretically use 90 Watts https://www.rapidtables.com/calc/electric/energy-cost-calculator.html If you had it pluged in 24 hours and it was using that full 90 watts for the 24 hours (it wouldnt if the battery gets to its full charge or isnt really using its full load) US avg kw/h price is 12 cents so it would use at most around $7 a month, where if you were in places with higher costs such as aus it would be $20 a month Say you save 6-8 hours not charging because it goes to battery it would go to a max of $5 a month, and still probably wouldnt even reach that, you could also add in timers so that its only during the times you are home or completely off at night, you would be hitting a max of $3 a month

Is this really an issue? windows updates can destroy cpus with smaller core counts All DDR4 will run at 2133mhz by default, even if you buy 3800mhz sticks it will default to that, you need to go into your bios and look at XMP/DOCP settings basic guide (or just google it): https://www.corsair.com/corsairmedia/sys_master/productcontent/Ryzen3000_MemoryOverclockingGuide.pdf It is also good rule of thumb to set your FClock to half of your RAM speed for Ryzen, so in your case ~1600mhz

This is normal, Half duplex means you can send a signal both ways but only one way at a time, WiFi uses radio signals and if both ends were trying to send at the same time they will collide and not work

Yes, this is how downloads work unless you want to limit its maximum speed What are the devices youre trying to connect? Are you testing the results the same? use speedtest.net or fast.com Also dont get megabits and megabytes confused, if youre basing wifi devices off of a speedtest.net which displays megabits and then ethernet on megabytes from a steam download it will be different as megabits = megabytes * 8

honestly I feel like someone would want this to trick someone into unlocking their computer, but then again if said loophole existed you would need access to set it up so best I got is laziness

It may be your graphics driver as that obviously handles the display output and I believe the sound over hdmi too, when I had an nvidia graphics card it would display nvidia hdmi/display audio something something use DDU to wipe your display drivers and reinstall, there may be an option somewhere about HDMI audio in install or in geforce experience iirc moving on to AMD graphics my hdmi monitor displays as a AMD High Def Audio Device, so I would say it is your graphics driver

Theres a good chance, its possible it could also be the motherboard It sounds like theres an issue with power to cpu

It does also depend on what site you're downloading from and where they're based Steam is fast and you will almost always hit your download limit when downloading games from them, and chance is they have servers closer to you than what youre trying to download from you could have the worlds fastest internet but if youre trying to download a 3gb 4k youtube video off of sketchydownloads.com based in north korea you wont see very fast speeds

Start by removing as much as you're willing to go Take out all the power connectors to the mobo and the ram, and plug them all back in and see if that does anything see if you can use the motherboard display out with just your cpu to get any post

Could be auto scaling or youve zoomed in/out your icons? do they look smaller? Try holding ctrl and scroll up or down on desktop

1st usb Type c - can be used as an input at displayport 1.4 spec, or an output to another monitor for daisy chaining, can also be used (think of a usb hub) as the input for all the other usb outputs if you dont use the usb type b (downstream) 2nd usb type c - can be used as a normal usb type c connector for more ports (connects to your computer either through 1st type c or usb type b) 3 USB type a - can be used as normal usb ports (connects to computer through either 1st type c or usb type b) 1 USB type B - if you dont use the 1st type c connector, you can use this as the input (again think of a usb hub/dongle) for all the other usbs