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About byalexandr

  • Title
    Car Guy
  • Birthday 1999-06-28

Contact Methods

  • Steam
  • Origin
  • Xbox Live
  • Heatware

Profile Information

  • Gender
  • Location
  • Interests
    PCs, cars, photography, guns, etc. I'm into a lot of different stuff.
  • Occupation
    Auto Technician and Parts Specialist


  • CPU
    AMD Ryzen 5 1600 Six Core AM4 Processor
  • Motherboard
    Gigabyte AX370-Gaming K3 AM4 X370 ATX Motherboard
  • RAM
    Crucial Ballistix Sport 8GB DDR4-2400MHz Memory
  • GPU
    MSI GeForce GTX 1070 Gaming X 8GB GPU
  • Case
    Corsair Crystal Series 570X RGB Chassis
  • Storage
    Samsung 850 EVO 500GB 2.5" Solid State Drive + Western Digital Caviar Blue 1TB 3.5" 7200RPM HDD
  • PSU
    EVGA BQ 650W 80+ Bronze Modular ATX Power Supply
  • Display(s)
    ASUS VG248QE 3D 144Hz 24" 1ms Display
  • Cooling
    AMD Wraith Spire CPU Cooler
  • Keyboard
    Ducky Shine 3 TKL Cherry MX Blue (Red Backlighting) Mechanical Keyboard
  • Mouse
    Logitech G502 Proteus Spectrum Wired Gaming Mouse
  • Sound
    Bose CineMate Series II Home Theater System + Neewer NW-700 Microphone
  • Operating System
    Windows 10 Professional 64-Bit

Recent Profile Visitors

45,224 profile views
  1. Not that I post that often anymore but is Godlygamer still a mod? I had some beef with him a few years ago XD
  2. Yep that's the post. Still a lot to do (and buy) which is why I ended up doing the head gasket on the old motor. Runs great but now I'm running into a clutch or transmission issue, replacing the clutch slave did nothing and replacing the transmission oil made it shift a lot smoother but it still doesn't let me go into gear at first startup which is super odd.
  3. Little later than that. I posted it on August 6 if that helps, you'll see the wrinkle red valve cover.
  4. Some photos I took during the process of my less than $100 head gasket change. $43 head set from work and $45 for the machine shop to throw the head on the belt sander, several hours of work and cleaning and a lot of cursing. This was the least I could do for this poor engine; I honestly don't care about it that much because I have a $4,000 long block waiting to go in, but I'm really surprised it was still running as well as it was for having a blown head gasket for over a year. I only did the head gasket as it was absolutely necessary if I wanted to get ANY more miles out of this thing while I get the rest of the parts for the new engine. I watched as the machinist took SEVERAL passes on the head deck and he and I both agreed that it was VERY warped, especially between cylinders 2 and 3. Either way, cleaned up the block deck and pistons with WD-40 and scotch brite, put a new gasket and put the head back on. Tons of reassembly, a new oil drain plug/valve, and a new battery (from sitting in the garage for only 3 days smh) and it drives great, definitely gained back a lot of compression (you can hear the starter motor actually putting in some work now), no more magically disappearing coolant and a healthy amount of power gained back throughout the rev range and especially at higher RPMs. After the job the only thing I really need to do is adjust the valve lash; after all that cleaning, machining, and reassembly one or more of the valves have excessive lash and have a pretty audible ticking. But I can solve that with some appropriately sized bucket shims. My built engine gave me loads of experience but nothing teaches you better than doing complex work like this on an in-service engine that you rely on. Overall it was still nerve-racking but I kept my cool and got it done, and still have a car to drive to work on Monday
  5. With MLS head gaskets (which our cars come with) it's basically standard practice anyway to resurface the head if a new head gasket is required. MLS is very sensitive to even minor .0015" warpage, where as an organic head gasket would still seal at .003" warpage. But yeah the car shut off by itself from overheating the one time it did. I've seen it come close a couple times sitting in the drive thru line but I always shut the car off if that happens. The one time it did overheat I was so close to my shop that I kept pushing it, when I should've towed it and not have to deal with this now lol. But it's been going for a year now with the head gasket like that so not bad, good thing it'll cost less than $90 to fix lol
  6. Well unfortunately the motor currently in the Miata is not doing so hot, blew the head gasket (in that case it is doing hot, pun intended). I'm pretty sure it blew when I first got the car, one of the little bypass hoses split open and leaked all the coolant out before I even got home, only time it's ever overheated. Fixed the leaks and have been driving it for almost a year, but it's starting to get pretty bad, spark plugs are getting fouled up, losing oil and coolant; if it wasn't running on borrowed time before it certainly is now. Luckily I got a head set and timing belt for less than $50, machine shop will deck the head for $40 so I figure why not if I'm into the job less than $100. There's other problems with the motor but the head gasket is pretty much the main issue right now. Certainly gives me more time to finish the built turbo motor which is all I really need.
  7. Nah, weight reduction bro. In all seriousness if I'm moving it's bearable. Even with the windows up, I don't have a blower motor so the vent in the wiper cowl lets in fresh air. It's the stop lights that suck, mainly because it's hot but also because I hate everyone around me for not moving.
  8. It sucks, not gonna lie. But I learned to just embrace the sweat, it's gonna happen. People pay for saunas when I get it for free every time I drive the car XD
  9. It's at a quarter million miles and I plan to send it to at least half a million.
  10. Huge update on the 400HP built BP! I have the longblock fully assembled; clean, fresh paint, all buttoned up! Of course, I am only $4k into a $15k build but this is a huge step and I'm super happy with how it turned out. I think the next thing I'm going to save for is the turbo manifold kit and the EFR 6758 (which is $3k by itself smh), but I really need to get my ECU soon so that might come first. My MAF sensor is failing on the old engine in the car and I can just straight up delete it with the new ECU, plus it would give me a good chance to get into tuning a bit more.
  11. Not if you gut 200+ lbs out of the car! Removing the interior, gutting the dash, removing sound deadening, trunk liner, spare tire, jack, emissions equipment, removing the passenger seat and replacing the driver seat with a 9lb Ultra Shield, depowering the steering rack and removing AC, removing shipping tow hooks, removing soft top and frame and replacing with a hardtop, etc. The car not only gained power back from dropping the AC and PS, but with all the weight gone there is quite a noticeable difference in how the car picks up. 80-100+ still accelerates like a dog but up to 80 it shaved several seconds off. I'd say I could easily beat a mini van now whereas before it was the race of the century. Sucks for daily driving especially in Texas summer but so worth it. Looks cool without the interior too lol
  12. The best way to learn, for me anyways, is hands on. Assemble your own PC, go to Micro Center and just look at parts, cable manage, think of a problem you want to solve and come up with a way to solve it, without the help of others. The more you touch components the more you'll learn about them. Watching someone else do it is a great way to learn, but nothing comes close to doing it yourself, especially learning from your mistakes.
  13. Not one single part, but collectively I have spent $3,600 building my forged engine for my turbo Miata in the past couple months. The most expensive single part for it was the harmonic damper, surprisingly, at $526. A close second is the piston set at $474. Still another $12,200 to go before it makes 400hp!