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About Arcanekitten

  • Title
    E34 Masterrace
  • Birthday May 18

Contact Methods

  • Discord
    Garlic Bread #0906
  • Steam
  • Origin
  • Battle.net
    Arcanekitten #2625
  • PlayStation Network
    Not Available
  • Xbox Live
  • Twitch.tv
  • Twitter
  • Heatware
    Don't even know this one

Profile Information

  • Gender
  • Location
    The Netherlands
  • Interests
    This forum.
  • Occupation


  • CPU
    Ryzen 1600X
  • Motherboard
    Gigabyte AB350-Gaming 3
  • RAM
    G.Skill Tridentz RGB 2x8GB 3200Mhz CL16-18-18-38
  • GPU
    MSI R9 290 4G
  • Case
    Fractal Design R5
  • Storage
    Intel 660P 512GB, 3 TB WB Green, HGST 500 GB 7200rpm and WD 3TB Blue 7200RPM
  • PSU
    Seasonic GX-750
  • Display(s)
    AOC AG322QC4, LG 29UM67-p and LG 22MP67VQ-P
  • Cooling
    Cooler Master Hyper 412s
  • Keyboard
    Keychron K1
  • Mouse
    Logitech G502 Hero
  • Sound
    Sennheiser HD 558 and custom 5.1 surround setup
  • Operating System
    Windows 10 Home 64-Bit
  • PCPartPicker URL

Recent Profile Visitors

2,872 profile views
  1. This was more to avoid your GPU still being the main gpu in use by your pc so that you would even get to display anything on the IGPU but it seemed to work fine. Honestly in my opinion the GPU is toast as you've proven that with a other graphics unit your PC works just fine and with the GPU inserted it does artifact. Also if you change settings on the GPU it changes the amount so my best bet would be a dead GPU sadly enough. PSU die less often than a GPU but I could not see artifacting becoming an issue from a PSU...
  2. Running the exact same one! Great NVME m.2 SSD.
  3. the IGPU isn't nearly as strong as your GPU but yeah If you have lightweight games like CSGO, league or rocket league that play on basically any pc that isn't a brick.
  4. Artic does make great thermal compound. The silver 5 or MX4 does the trip nicely. Any other compound would also work though would probably only make a difference of about 2C.
  5. If it is on both your monitors I would definitely look at the stability of the card. Try doing some under clocking and moving with the power limits/voltages. If that does not fix it, albeit temporally, it probably is your GPU giving the ghost although it still could be the PSU but unlikely. The easiest way to find out if it is broken is to use another GPU or IGPU. I see you have a 6700K. That one has an iGPU. Try hooking up to that and unslotting your card from your PC. Still got the issue? than it is not the GPU
  6. Well, depends on the time of application. Did you do it this week? sure fine. Is it the same thermal paste from the beginning of its lifespan you'll need to replacement. Sure you can use it but it will probably be hard and quite brittle and impact thermal performance. Thermal paste is super cheap these days. A good plan for sure on the swap!
  7. An NVME drive overheating without any load is never good sign. Even if it was the overheating that still would be a reason to return it because the design is faulty. I looked at the newegg page of that NVME drive. Seems like you're not the only one having issues with the drive being dead on arrival as I can see about 10 reviews stating the same. I would personally contact Newegg about this and request a refund and go with another brand or ask for a replacement.
  8. Should work just fine. As long as it is a slotted card which you can see if you open the case up. I am not aware of any limitation that dell puts on these besides the obvious thermal design and power delivery (pci-e connector) that probably will be lacking.
  9. The XMP profile will follow the lowest link in the system. You could try manually overclocking as that might squeeze a bit more performance out of your components if your willing to put in the effort. Won't damage the components at all. RAM usually has a lifetime warranty and that isn't without a reasons, those things are almost bulletproof tbh.
  10. Up the power limit a bit and underclock it a bit as @keik said. If that doesn't solve it are you on analog connectors to your monitor? Could be one of those cables going bad. Also check if it isn't the monitor going bad. My monitor recently also had artifacting but only my main monitor. Same issues as a GPU would have.
  11. Hello, I've got a small headache because I don't know how to wire my speaker setup up. This is the current situation. I've got a PC 3.5mm to RCA that goes into my old receiver/amp that amp outputs via speaker wire to two small speakers. Now have I been missing some low end so I want to add a subwoofer and I have got this denon Subwoofer. How would I add this sub since it has a line level input, high level output and high level input. It has a amp built into it. The model number is the Denon DSW 80 and the old amp/receiver is the Pioneer RX-Z71L. Can I route a set of speaker wire from the output from my old amp to the sub high level input or would one or both of the amps then explode? I would prefer if the old amp stays in the loop since it has easy to access volume and eq settings.
  12. I'm looking to upgrade my speaker system in my Old VW polo 6N2 but currently I have an old radio installed which only delivers 15W per channel. Now am I currently a bit confused by the RMS and wattage ratings on the products. Would for instance a Pioneer radio which is rated to deliver 200W RMS work with a speaker set from Kicker that is rated for 100W? since 100W + 100W would be 200W? Or would a 75W RMS rated radio still work with the Kicker 100W RMS rated speaker set.
  13. Would a simple cable be sufficient? Or would this require an active adapter of some kind?
  14. Okay that would work. I've got one more question however, currently i've got 2 passive speakers connected to my pre-amp/amp stack with speaker wire. Those speakers are the current output of the amp stack on which the vinyl player is connected. It wouldn't be possible to merge the two passive speakers and my active Z323 speaker set so the vinyl would play on both? Or separate them at some point so the audio will play on both speakers setups.
  15. Even though the speakers are active? The problem currently that my amplifier has a pre amp build in so ideally I would connect the speakers through those aswell but since the speakers are active.