VioDuskar

30 minutes ago, VicksForWindows said:

I’ve settled most or all of my PC components but I haven’t found a case that I’m really happy with, so I go to the internet, what’s your favorite case and why? Maybe if I like it I’ll go with that case.

 

it depends. are you building ATX or ITX? 
are you going for unicorn vomit RGB? 
are you water cooling? 3x140mm? 3x120mm? 2x120mm? 1x120mm? 
are you going to pick it up and move it often?

22 minutes ago, candycane said:

I have 2400 MHz 2x8gb crucial ballistix ram (it has a latency of 16 clocks) with my Ryzen 7 3800X. Will this cause a lot of bottlenecking?

 

ryzen CPUs like RAM above 3200, but don't go rush out to buy more RAM for a performance bump that isn't worth the cost, if you even notice it. 

the basic concept is there. I did this in my house with a 24 patch and a 48 port switch. 

24 ports for rack equipment
24 ports for 24 patchs from my rack to my wall,

from my wall to my attic,

from my attic to where ever in the house. 

biggest thing is get a router that doesn't suck. maybe one that supports Duel ISPs, or Link redundancy to your switch for more throughput, since your switch and router are only 1Gbps. 

I understand you're doing this on a budget though. 
I hope you're good at terminating RJ45s. 
I went shielded Cat6A and the keystones were a bitch. the RJ45s weren't bad at all. 
unless you're going to go 10Gbps in the future i'd suggest only going Cat5. much easier to terminate and you can pull more in a smaller space due to diameter. 

sources:
I work with structured cabling guys regularly. 
I did all of this in my own home. 

i've seen a lot of RAM die early to frequent power surges/outages/blips 

if this happens often(more than once a month) you should buy a UPS and put your machine on a that UPS so you can shut it down gracefully when the power dies.  

1 hour ago, Mnky313 said:

Android auto is just as simple as bluetooth, it's simple 50% of the time. The other 50% of the time it either doesn't work, starts cutting out, randomly wont connect, randomly kills the music app, decides to not find the music, etc.

I want to get in my car, start it, and go. Not fuck around with my phone for 30 seconds-5 minutes and hope it decides to stay working. Same reason I hate bluetooth especially in cars. It's too damn unreliable for cars.
 

There's a new launcher app FlowUX synesthesia that I want to try but it's $15 20 (he raised the price) and I'd like to at least see if it does what I want before spending $15 on an app.....

I used Headunit reloaded in the past but it was iffy if it wanted to work or not (I used it in whatever mode runs both the client and server on the device).
 

Interesting, I'll probably do something in the future once android Automotive (not Auto) head units become available but for now I'm good.

your experience seems to be one filled with growing pains. android auto works much better now than ever before. 
USB disconnect issues are nearly always the cable, sometimes they're the cable in the back of the unit. 
my wife's unit doesn't support android 11 very well, i will admit that. it doesn't like the OS integration
and she uses android 9, and it works fine, save that Spotify doesn't work well with her unit. it's specifically spotify. 

i've never had any issues with bluetooth in a car. like ever. IDK what you're talking about. 

I just don't see how a 2 spare phone setup can be easier than a head unit and android auto with automatic DVR. 
at the end of the day you can only do what works best for you, the user. 

 

5 hours ago, Mnky313 said:

I can't stand android auto (unless it's self contained and doesn't rely on a separate phone.), I change ROMs/phones/reset my phone way too often to deal with it. The phone I have for nav/music has an extra SIM card in it for voice commands and navigation.
But there are aftermarket head units that run android so that's fine. Problem is cost, I have all these phones because I get them for really cheap if not free, that's why I like using them for weird things like this.

I have a Jeep Cherokee (XJ), it's single din (or technically 1.5 din?).

https://jeepcables.com/xj-double-din-radio-install-kit-97-01/
this is a doubleDIN frame for your jeep. 

android auto is simply click yes to confirm and go. android 10+ should have it baked into the OS now with no need to download the app anymore. 
the setup is pretty effortless. 

all of the android head units are super Chinese blocks. setup and keeping them stable is a monster. I have one in my car. my wife has an alpine. 

Here is one that supports a SIM for 4G. 
https://www.amazon.com/JOYING-Android-Touchscreen-Bluetooth-Receiver/dp/B08JQ8MRMX/ref=pd_di_sccai_6/139-5552791-8477063?pd_rd_w=TODrq&pf_rd_p=c9443270-b914-4430-a90b-72e3e7e784e0&pf_rd_r=KE9RYJH3B625Z76F7SDH&pd_rd_r=bfcb65ea-ee02-4755-b52d-683ee67453ea&pd_rd_wg=H5P72&pd_rd_i=B08JQ8MRMX&psc=1


I use Nova Launcher to  customize the start screen, and HeadUnit Reloaded on the XDA store to get it to work with android auto. 

8 minutes ago, Mnky313 said:

Interesting, would it cause problems if I plug the phone in while it's battery contacts are connected to the car battery/LM2596? I currently leave the phones plugged in but they are only powered when I turn the car on (this makes it easy to power on and off the phones with the car).

If I were to wire the battery contacts to only have power when the car is on that would probably cause problems with recordings not saving as well as a weird issue I have with my music player (if I shutdown the phone without pausing the music and killing the app it always opens to the same song in the same shuffle order for whatever reason).

i feel like a standard double DIN headunit replacement that supports android auto would do you a lot of good. 

get a DIN adapter for your car and rip out the old stereo, then replace it with a new aftermarket unit.

a lot of them support a dashcam input and a rear cam too. it's a massive modernization for an old car. 

what model car do you have?

1 minute ago, sub68 said:

knowing 3000 series, don't.

easy, why

https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B08R9R5R1R?

https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B08H8W15MS

 

This isn't all of the 3000 series. it's just the 3090. 
because of the VRAMs on the back side. 

Just now, XnonXte said:

"ESL" Stand for what mate?

 

English Second Language. 

Just now, XnonXte said:

Just do whatever will do good for you, If you do want to go with Ryzen 5 2600 then it is a good option, But Ryzen 5 3600 is better, Again idk about the current price from your country, There are no shame going with Intel or AMD, Be a Fan of competition, Also fix your grammar

he's probably ESL so, i'm giving him a pass on grammar. 

OP, if you just got an intel 9400f i'd just hold on to it for a while.

I think it's fine for gaming. maybe not for video editing though. i don't know what kind of workload you edit, so only upgrade if it's frustrating to compile/render.

if you're willing to spend the money you can get an x570 motherboard and slot an AMD 2600 or 3600 in it until you can afford a better 3000 or 5000 series. 
or hold off even longer and save up for the next AMD generation. (it just keeps getting better)

My 3080 Ti is run off of a 750w (Corsair SF750)
I'd bet your 3070 ti would be fine on a 750W too, even though your CPU is power power hungry than my 5600X.

1 minute ago, BHPillow said:

Possibly yeah. Was thinking of going to best buy and saying the CPU i bought from them broke my computer and getting $$$ out of it. 

they won't care. just box it back up, bring the receipt back, and ask for a replacement. tell them you updated the BIOS and still haven't had any luck.

or you can tell them it was DOA, and ask if they can test it. if they refuse to test it, ask for a refund or replacement.

Just now, BHPillow said:

Not sure, i never really check the notes list. But i bought the mobo and old cpu at the same time. FEB of 2021. the 5600x came out in Nov 2020 i believe so the x570 shouldve been up to date. Also i updated bios in June.

if you updated it in june you went to F34, anything past F30 should support that CPU. 

maybe try to return the CPU and get a replacement?

2 minutes ago, BHPillow said:

also have updated bios since

did the BIOS update notes list "added support for 5000 series" ? 
if not update the BIOS again. read the patch notes.

2 minutes ago, BlueChinchillaEatingDorito said:

If your system is working and stable right now, I would leave the BIOS alone. The only time I would update the BIOS is if the update will fix any instabilities currently being experienced or critical security vulnerabilities. 

 

Although updating the BIOS is easier than it has ever been, it still comes with its own risks. Something simple as your PC loosing power for a split second during the update could brick the board. And while that will probably happen once in a blue moon, you'll be kicking yourself to no end if it does happen. 

This! 
there is an old saying that goes "if it isn't broke, don't fix it!" especially if you haven't updated firmwares before. 
 

read the patch notes. if they apply to you, then update. 
if the patch notes don't fix an issue that you have, leave it be. 

I use the 5600X with the stealth cooler and at idle it's cool(60ish), but under load it reaches 85C+
I run a SFF, so case fans don't apply to me. 
what are your temps at idle? 80C? 

Thermal paste does go bad after a while even if it's been in a tube, the seal isn't perfect. how old is the paste? if it's a few years i would get new paste. 

eiher way, if it's not over 90C+ you're fine. it's not going to hurt the CPU, just maybe begin to thermal throttle. if you're worried about it, get a better CPU cooler. 

1 minute ago, JoshStanley said:

money isnt an issue for this build, i have the money so im going all out and building the best PC i can ive just seen people saying two is better or four is better on reddit so i figured i would ask here and hopefully get a definitive answer

PACK IT

1 minute ago, TetraSky said:

Come on now, just because that's how its been until now, doesn't mean it will be the same. Lets give it a chance at least. It looks promising, IMO.

 

As for using it as your primary OS, only do so if you're fine with plenty of OS breaking bugs. Be prepared to lose your data.

it's been that way for decades now. 

plus, the centered taskbar is a massive turn off for me. and it's a mostly cosmetic upgrade. so i'm think it's going to be like Vista or 8. 

1 minute ago, CriSis_ said:

oh wow, i didn't realise it was dram less, that makes a lot of difference. Also it doesn't have to be a Samsung drive but he like the idea of buying from Samsung due to their reputation. Could you recommend any other ssds that would outperform or match the 970 evo plus?

 

Thanks for the help  

seabrent rockets seem pretty good, or so i hear. 

8 minutes ago, Slo2020 said:

Replace or not Windows 10 with Windows 11 Beta as primary OS when it will be released?

every other version of windows sucks. just use windows 10 until 12 comes out. 

if money isn't an issue get max Capacity, at the highest speed, with as many sticks as you can. 

if money is an issue just get two higher speed sticks in the capacity you want. 

4 minutes ago, Dawon said:

I only see dsp versions here in my country and when I see oem, it has esp with it. 

Is it good for my normal pc (gaming and streaming), not for workshop? 

And I didn't see any product key on the characteristics of the os, should i be worried? 

DSP - OEM :

OEM versions of Windows are identical to Full License Retail versions except for the following:

- OEM versions do not offer any free Microsoft direct support from Microsoft support personnel

- OEM licenses are tied to the very first computer you install and activate it on

- OEM versions allow all hardware upgrades except for an upgrade to a different model motherboard

- OEM versions cannot be used to directly upgrade from an older Windows operating system

1 minute ago, Jade Jade said:

if I reset my pc back to windows 10 will that fix the problem?

 

https://download.asrock.com/Manual/Z490 Steel Legend.pdf

read page 32. those lights show red if you have a CPU, RAM, VGA, or Disk fault. 

The lights are Item 16 on page 13. 
you need to look on the board to figure out which. 

you need a TPM to run windows 11, while your board support it, you may need to get one. see SPI_TPM in the manual.

 if you're not super techie don't run Win11 it's not at full release yet. 
going back to win10 probably won't fix your issue, unless it's a disk issue where it can't find an OS on the disk, which would be caused by a bad install. 

security is the inhibitor of ability.

Blocking all incoming domain connections means traffic will not make it to your computer if it's coming from within your domain. 

clear your CMOS. 
reinstall win10. 

what is your motherboard model? some have LEDs for trouble shootings.