MisterDeadeye

http://www.tomshardware.com/reviews/amd-radeon-rx-480-polaris-10,4616-9.html
 
http://www.pcper.com/reviews/Graphics-Cards/Power-Consumption-Concerns-Radeon-RX-480
 
Here are two sites that did in-depth testing to confirm what all of the reports are indicating. Are Tom's Hardware and PC Perspective not credible? 
 
Here's another site that consolidates several reviews saying the same things about power consumption: http://videocardz.com/61667/what-reviewers-say-about-radeon-rx-480-exceeding-pci-express-power-specifications

It's all free when you really think about it.

It's all free when you really think about it.

Hah! Sucker, looks like I didn't make a mistake after all! 

Sorry, I stumble over my words at times. The speakers I linked to are basically the A1rx-c with slightly modified components to better suit a smaller enclosure(with other tweaks that are supposed to improve tonality to at least some degree). Reviews of the originals and of the other models: A2rx-c, A3, etc., will essentially tell you what you need to know, as with each of the different models, the only difference is the level in output. They're all designed to have the same frequency response, with the same crossover; each enclosure is made to scale in such a way that the response curve is the same. I've talked to Jon through e-mail a few times, and I know he's got an account on some audio forum(not sure which one and I'm not going to give free advertisement to another forum regardless), and he really does know what he's doing. I would have suggested the originals but they're out of stock, and with the new entry releasing soon, it doesn't look like they're(the A1rx-c) are going to be available anymore. 
 
What I meant to say was to look at reviews of the models that are available now, to look at information regarding the technology used, to glean an idea of what they will be like. Information regarding the motor design: http://www.adireaudio.com/Files/XBL2DetailsPaper.pdf
 
Keep in mind, the people who invented it made subwoofers, which were arguably the best sounding subs available -- so much so that years after they went out of business, other companies started making them again due to the demand. 
 
More XBL^2 stuff: http://www.adireaudio.com/Files/XBL2ExecSummary.pdf
 
They talk about more output, but what they mean is that they don't require a ton of power to achieve the excursion necessary to put out an acceptable SPL at lower frequencies like you need with other motor designs. 
 
One last thing, when you see the frequency range Chane shows in their specs, take note that it's +-3dB, whereas other companies are +-5dB or don't even state what the variation is because it's drastic. The cutoff shown of 45Hz, -6dB means there's a filter at a -6dB/octave slope at 45Hz, not that at 45Hz it's -6dB from the standard curve. Which, if you aren't an audio freak, means that at 45Hz, the sound level is mechanically cutoff at a slow rate, meaning more extension on the low end(cutoffs are typically either -6dB, -12dB, or -24dB).

CPUs perform mathematical operations in a series of steps. Each time the CPU does one step, we call that a cycle. CPU frequency (measured in GHz) is how many cycles the CPU can do in one second. 1 gigahertz is 1 billion cycles per second.
 
It is not a measure of CPU speed or computational power, because different CPUs take a different number of steps to do the same operation. On more advanced CPU designs which take fewer steps to do the same calculations, it will be able to finish more calculations with 1 billion cycles than a less advanced CPU would, and so even if both CPUs are operating at 1 billion cycles per second, the more advanced CPU will have higher performance because it gets more stuff done with those 1 billion cycles than the other CPU does.

There are other programs you can get that affect the entire system's EQ, rather than just setting up one per program, or trying to route all system sound through foobar which I think is probably impossible.
 
give this a shot: https://sourceforge.net/projects/equalizerapo/

Have you ever played Pokemon? Emerald would probably be the best place to start, then Fire Red or Leaf Green, then Platinum. 

Okay, so I use Photoshop. There IS hardware acceleration, and you can look online to see that there are measurable differences with going for better GPUs. Now, what you have selected would be great for gaming with the Z170 board and i7-6700k. It'll do well with Photoshop as well, but the CPU is most definitely NOT needed for Photoshop. My suggestion is to dial back on the CPU and motherboard(the chipset on that board is also for SLI and overclocking, "gaming" features that will literally not be used at all in an editing PC), and reallocate the funds for better stability and higher speeds for reading/writing. 
 
Anyway, this is a mockup of what I've found. http://de.pcpartpicker.com/p/KRvY6h
 
CPU: Intel Xeon E3-1230 V5 3.4GHz Quad-Core Processor  (€264.00) 
Motherboard: Gigabyte GA-X150-PLUS WS ATX LGA1151 Motherboard  (€108.94) 
Memory: Corsair Vengeance LPX 16GB (2 x 8GB) DDR4-2133 Memory  (€70.99) 
Storage: Samsung SM951 256GB M.2-2280 Solid State Drive  (€137.05) 
Video Card: MSI GeForce GTX 960 2GB Video Card  (€193.18) 
Power Supply: SeaSonic 520W 80+ Platinum Certified Fully-Modular Fanless ATX Power Supply  (€147.05)
Total: €921.21
 
Okay, now a bit of a breakdown for my reasoning on these components. The Xeon is much cheaper than the i7, but has the same cache and hyperthreading. It isn't overclockable, has a slower clock speed, and no integrated graphics, but none of that is something you'll care about with Photoshop. I'm telling you, while the i7-6700k is recommended on here all day, you have to realize that most of the people here use their computers for LTT, porn, and games. The Xeon will be a better choice.
 
The motherboard is compatible with the Xeon -- for the first time in a while, Xeon processors aren't compatible with the standard chipsets; admittedly, there are few C232 or C236 chipset boards that show pricing on PCPartPicker. Again, comparing this to the Z170 board, you'll notice a couple of things. This is essentially Gigabyte's version of ASUS's TUF series. It's a workstation board, and you're building a workstation -- not an MLG pro 420allday gaming PC.
 
You aren't going to need 32GB of RAM for Photoshop. 16GB will be plenty to have Photoshop and Lightroom open, along with 20 tabs of Chrome. You aren't using up that 16GB of RAM. Also, regarding the speed difference, again, this is negligible and you will not notice a difference between 2133 and 2400.
 
You're going to want some sort of flash storage. SSD, PCIe, M.2, something. I chose that Samsung M.2 card because of the read/write speeds; you can go for a 950 Pro if you want to spend the extra money. Regardless, you'll have a lot of presets and templates saved on your main drive. Having a storage device with fast read/write speeds is necessary for Photoshop. You're not going to want a WD Green as your OS drive. Dear God, 5400RPM(or whatever it technically is) is so bad; it's really only useful at this point for archiving. 
 
As far as the GPU, I kind of had a difficult time deciding what to go for. GTX 960 is a good choice, especially if you're planning on having multiple monitors setup while processing with the GPU. GTX 950 is fine, but again, you should notice a difference with the 960. Honestly, the most important thing is making sure you have the video outputs you'll need per the displays you're intending to use.
 
750W is waaaaaaaaaaaaaaaay overkill for ANY single CPU and GPU system. The 520W I chose is nice for two reasons. One, it's fanless so it's totally silent. Two, it's 80+ Platinum so it's efficient. You'd actually be fine with the 460W version with either of the GPUs we've recommended here, and the 80+ Gold PSU recommended above would be fine as well. Again, this is a workstation, so you shouldn't be focused on watts and clock speeds. Stability and efficiency are the most important aspects of a workstation.
 
I didn't choose a HDD, a case, or a CPU cooler because those aren't as important. A stock cooler would be fine if there's going to be no gaming(or even light gaming assuming the case has decent cooling). I'd choose a WD Red Pro for storage, though a Green would technically be fine. 

Psst. Guys, he ordered the correct fans.....
 
Stahp.

Hmm. I think it would probably be more profitable and easier to manage if you did a 3, 6, 12-month subscription rather than a monthly basis. My idea(though I don't know what your current numbers actually are) is this:
 
3-month support plan:
-$X
-They can bring the computer in an unlimited amount of times
-Virus removal/OS install/data transfer can only be done ONCE per 3-month interval, PER computer
-20% off coupon for next purchase, can not be stacked with other coupons of the same nature
 
6-month
-$X*1.8
 
12-month
-$X*2.5
----------
Off the top of my head, other incentives to subscribe for the plan would be:
-Access to a support e-mail address so they can talk to you(or an employee, not sure how big you are) if something goes wrong. You'll probably have them come in for most cases, though there's a level of comfort for consumers knowing they can communicate with someone through e-mail
-Hardware cleaning/inspection(taken from earlier reply which I think is a really good idea)
 
 
As far as cancellation, they'd be refunded, but obviously the refund would be prorated, and there COULD be a cancellation fee if you choose. 

You're right, the pump will probably make quite a bit of noise. I did have the H220hx picked out because you can easily drain and refill it and there's room for adding another block if I want to water cool my GPU as well, but I'll start thinking about air cooling instead.
I do plan on using one hard drive cage, so I was going to take the top one out for air flow, as well as rotating the bottom one 90 degrees, so I shouldn't have any intake issues.
Thanks for all of the advice, I'll go back and look everything over again and see if air cooling is the way I want to go. Any other input is much appreciated.

Yeah, electronics are just that way. I've had SSDs die after owning them for a week, I've had things DOA, that's just the hobby we chose.
For the record, I have an A10-6800K build(well, had) that I ended up giving to a friend because there was nowhere else for me to go with it. I don't have a thing for Intel, I've just been in OP's situation where I see that the AMD APUs are cool and I want to use them in some way, but they just aren't viable for any kind of console killing.