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NickTheMajin

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Everything posted by NickTheMajin

  1. Thanks guys, I was actually planning on turning the 27 vertical since my desk is only so big and I have two large bookshelf speakers on it.
  2. Currently using a monitor arm designed for two 27s and would like to use it for a 38 and a 27. Would like to use this for my 38 (38gl950) and one of the 27s (2716dgr) Concerned about the 38 being too big for it even though it doesn’t seem that much heavier. https://www.amazon.com/gp/aw/d/B07B6FDD6H?psc=1&ref=ppx_pop_mob_b_asin_title
  3. I have 6TB of SSD in my PC. 20TB of external storage. I just bought a 14tb external hard drive to have a back up of my two other external hard drives and my PCs entire storage as well. Its outrageous how much prices on this stuff have fallen. The 12tb external hard drive was $180.
  4. They're all basically the same aside from the cooler used and the customer service you might need to use down the line. Some higher end cards will be factory overclocked or run cooler allowing you to overclock them yourself. Realistically, they're almost all going to be within 5% of each other performance wise.
  5. I just got a 3080 for $699 from Best Buy on friday. Keep your eyes out and you'll eventually find one for MSRP. It took me about three weeks between when I decided I wanted to get a 3080 to when I was able to order one.
  6. So glad I got a 3080FE for $699 this past friday. Just happened to be scrolling through Best Buy's website during a restock.
  7. I just built a new PC and want to make sure this is alright. I have an H440 case which is definitely not great for airflow. I have the stock three intake fans in the front, the stock exhaust fan in the back and added three exhaust fans on the top. My CPU cooler is the noctua NHD15 using one fan (2nd would not fit). While idling my temps are fine, between 40-55. When gaming though, my CPU very quickly will reach 100C and back off to 80-90 periodically going to 100C again. I've reset and reapplied past to my NH-D15 already. My room does get warm and my PC is about three feet away from my heater. No overclock. It depends on the game as well, Assassins Creed Odyssey routinely gets to 100C quickly, I never hit it on less demanding games, Cold Steel 3 runs at 60C. Cyberpunk hovers between 80-90C.
  8. I just upgraded my PC from the 5930k to the 10700K, so now I have an X99 board and CPU I'm not using. My wife currently has an i5 7500 and I'm thinking about swapping her board and CPU for my x99/5930k. Her GPU is a 1080ti. Is this worth doing?
  9. 32in is way too small for 12-15ft away. Like I sit 6.5ft away from a 65in OLED and I'm thinking about going to a 77. Are you sure its actually 12-15ft?
  10. This. There isn't enough money in the world to get me to switch off my iPhone, I'd sooner keep an old iPhone than switch to a new android phone, and that's not an unpopular opinion with the general apple fanbase.
  11. Hey, This problem just popped up a few weeks ago. I'll load up discord, league or some other game and try to talk. It will work for about one to two minutes and then my mic will stop receiving information. I can verify this by going into sound settings where it says "test your microphone". The bar will not be moving. I can solve this for another two minutes by unplugging and replugging in the mic or by switching my input device to something and then back to the blue yeti. But within a minute or so it just immediately goes silent again. I've uninstalled and reinstalled the blue yeti driver in device manager and that didn't really help. Is there something else I'm missing here?
  12. I have the G7, you can turn the lights on, off, set them to rainbow, breathing, etc etc. Full control over it. It also doesn't look bad, the lights are far subtler than they look in pictures.
  13. More immersive. I have a 65in OLED and sit about 7ft away from it. I'm planning on replacing it with a 77in this year for the same distance. In my subjective opinion, you want the largest screen you can have where, at the distance you sit, you don't need to turn your head left/right. That's perfect immersion. I would also not consider a 50-55in TV big. That's normal these days.
  14. Yeah, I've copied the settings from a few poeple that claimed to have dialed it in correctly. The profiles I copied just ramped up the saturation and contrast and made everything look artifical.
  15. I’m currently using a Dell 2716 1440p/144hz/TN monitor and I’m finding myself not wanting to play games on it anymore. It’s wonderful for Overwatch because of how smooth it is but the actual color is poor. Completely washed out with terrible black levels. I’m looking at the new monitors floating around today. Ideally I want a monitor sized oled but we are probably still a ways off from that. How are the LG ultra gear monitors? I’ve been looking at them, the Acer predators and the new Samsung odyssey monitors. The problem is that no one seems to agree on what’s good or bad. Are these enough of an improvement on the Dell tn panel I have? Have we gotten any closer to TV tech? I usually game on a 65in oled but I’d love a full array local dimming monitor with actual HDR but it doesn’t seem like that really exists.
  16. To play the many fantastic exclusive titles that don’t make it to PC. Spider-Man, The last of Us and Persona 5 were some of my favorite games last gen.
  17. I have two systems plugged into my PC. One that goes out to my surround sound for my media room that includes rotel separates and Martin logan electrostats over HDMI. The other goes to another receiver dedicated to my PC speakers. A pair of Logan bookshelves and a sonance sub over optical. For whatever reason, only during gaming, I get a screeching sound out of my speakers and subwoofer. The screeching sound seems to increase and decrease due to the frame rate of the game I’m playing even with the volume all the way down. I can remove this screeching by either unplugging the subwoofer or by turning off the game. So I think I’ve at least narrowed down the sub. I have a subwoofer cable with grounding forks that I’m using to no avail. I’m on the same power strip as the PC and receiver. It seems like the coil whine from my PC is leaking into my speakers but only with the sub plugged in. Any ideas?
  18. I have three Martin Logan electrostat speakers in my system for my front stage. Roughly $25,000 worth of audio in my living room. https://imgur.com/gallery/XtvOzq6
  19. Not really. 1. The receiver will be in the basement most likely, because that is most likely where the speaker wires were run. How are you going to control what is playing? Do you have Android or iPhone. If Android you are out of luck because at that point bluetooth is your only option and that isn't going to reach the basement. If iPhone at least you can airplay, but even that will be spotty depending on where you are in the house. 2. With a surround receiver, the only way you will get sound to every room will be in multi channel stereo. This will only work if you want every room to play the same thing at the same volume. This might sound good, but in practice this sucks, especially if its not just you in the house. One way around this is to install volume knobs in each room, but these require more wires to be run and if the walls are already up that is not going to happen. And even then, say you go to start playing something and there is a speaker in someone's room who doesn't want to hear it. They then have to get up and manually lower the volume on the knob. You also probably want to play different things in different rooms. 3. Surround receivers require a screen for setup because receivers are primarily for surround sound. Not multi room audio.
  20. I'm a custom integrator so what TC wants to do is literally my bread and butter.
  21. Those are all AVRs that, at most, have two zones and almost all of them require a screen to set them up. TC isn't going to find what he wants here. TC, you need to find where the speaker wires go. They are definitely not wireless speakers. They should have been run to one central location. Buy a multi room amplifier not a receiver. You then need to choose a platform with which to control everything. The old school way was analog volum controls in every room. We don't use those anymore. Pick something like Sonos, Bose, Heos, etc as the platform with which to control each room. Example, if you want to use Sonos you buy one sonos connect per zone. (So if you have a speaker in your bedroom and in your bathroom and you want independent control over each room you buy two sonos connects). There really is no good way to do it cheaply.
  22. https://forums.macrumors.com/threads/apples-new-thing-ipod.500/ Some amazing gems to be found in there. Crazy to think how wrong many of these people were.
  23. It really depends on length. Anything over 15ft expect to pay a lot for the cable. If you need to go more than 25ft its realistic you'll be looking at hundreds if you want 4k HDR 4:4:4. Below 15ft, just get any high speed cable.
  24. I'm going to throw a few different options based on what kind of sound you're looking for in the $300-500 mark. V-Moda Crossfade 2 Codex Editions: Warm, good bass, good balance into the mids and highs but a relatively small soundstage. Fun headphones to listen to and extremely comfortable. Wireless or wired Bowers and Wilkins PX: Bright. Awesome clarity, excellent detail, weaker bass but makes up for it with a much larger sound stage. Wireless or wired. Best build quality. Most iconic brand of the bunch by far known for their speakers that go into the tens of thousands of dollars. Sennheiser HD 660: Best sound stage of the bunch. Open back so no using these outside or portably but you will not beat the soundstage or comfort of these guys (Or any of Sennheiser's open back headphones). These guys are only wired and in my opinion require separate amplification (IE not just a headphone jack). You'll get a lot of recommendations for Audiotecnica headphones but I'd stay away from Audiotecnica personally. They're widely recommended because they're usually babies first foray into audiophile teritory. Most of the people recommending Audiotecnica cans will not have heard of the better and more iconic brands out there like Bowers and Wilkins. A couple non audiophile hyper popular youtubers made reviews on them and made them internet famous but they're just one step above a headphone like beats in my opinion. Not bad but there is better out there.
  25. Full volume is definitely way too loud. If you care about your hearing get used to 60-65% volume if you listen for long periods of time. Be alert when going into noisy areas like Concerts or Clubs. I'm an audio dealer so I know the struggle. I carry ear plugs with me at all times so when I do two channel and theater demos I can put them in. Past few years movie theaters have gotten louder and louder so I tend to wear ear plugs at the movie theater as well (You would be amazed at how loud movie theaters can get. Way above the threshold of when damage can begin to occur). Concerts and clubs are another area where you should be wearing ear plugs. I know it sucks but its worth it in the end. My degree is in audiology and I I interned at a hearing clinic while I was in school. Its unbelievable how many people are damaging their hearing without realizing it and hearing aids are not the same as your natural born hearing.
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