EmeraldFlame

That's likely because you have multiple layers of firewalls in place blocking the connection. Your router will have a basic firewall built in. You'd need to make sure port-forwarding is turned on and forwarding port 80 for HTTP and port 443 for HTTPS to the PC hosting the XAMPP instance. Additionally you'd need to make sure that those ports are open for incoming and outgoing external connections in your OS's firewall. Be aware, unless you have a decent amount of security training, these are not ports I'd recommend opening up for the average person, and would put your home network at fairly high risk of attack when left wide open.

Good to know I'm not the only one that can find one. I may end up just going pure white with the reset then. But yeah, by default, the SMA8-A is actually power button only, but I really prefer having a reset button and a access indicator. I know they're a bit antiquated these days, but I like em.

I have. The size I'm looking for would be the PV6 series for E-Switch, and specifically I'd need part number PV6F24011-2R1 or PV6F24011G-2R1 (either would work, it's just silver or gold contacts), and I can't seem to find a retailer for them. I've tried to hunt down part numbers on other manufacturers as well, but not everyone is as forth-coming with their part numbers as E-Switch, a lot of others seem to force you into a business account with them before they let you access their catalog.

Anyone have any leads on where I might be able to find one? I can't seem to track them down from any suppliers. I've found these that have and RGB ring but for my reset button, I'd really prefer the dot lighting. Specifically something like this, but RGB capable. Specifics I'd be looking for: Face: 18-19mm (although I could modify things for a 22) Shaft: 16mm (although I could modify things for a 19) Lighting: RGB Dot Finish: Black Anodized It's just going to be a reset switch/drive activity indicator (going into a caselabs SMA8-A), so the switch doesn't have to be able to handle anything crazy as far as voltage/current goes, just needs to be momentary.

Just in case anyone else comes looking for answers, I think I found a solution to my issue with the controller I had dropping off the network. I've got an Asus AC3200 tri-band router that has a "smart connect" feature, where it steers devices between it's 3 bands (1x 2.4, 2x 5) automatically, and it seems that the controller didn't like that. I'm betting other routers with similar features will have similar issues. I knew this thing only supported 2.4GHz bands, but figured things would be smart enough that it wouldn't be an issue. I created a guest network on my router that only has access to the 2.4 band, and connected the controller to that, and for the past few days it's been reliable. I assume it would also work by just breaking the main connection out to multiple SSIDs, but for ease of use on every other device I have, I left my main SSID to the smart connect.

So it's possible I just got a bad unit due to poor QC?

I've actually looked into these models too, because everyone is rebranding them, and reviews are extremely mixed. Some people love them. However, at the same time, there are a bunch of people that are saying they suffer the same issues as the one I already have in that they crash or drop off the network constantly. Maybe it's just bad QC on these things?

Awhile ago, I put some RGBW 5050 LED strips on my desk (about 6 meters total) for some ambient lighting and picked up an Arilux AL-LC02 controller. It's features are awesome, handles RGBW, has app control over wifi with the "Magic Home" app, and can even be tied to google/amazon voice assistants. However the problem I'm running into is it crashes constantly. Literally every time I go to use it, I have to unplug the power, then plug it back in, so that it reboots and works. Does anyone have recommendations for a more stable controller? Or if anyone else has experience with these controllers specifically, did I maybe just get a defective one, and if I pick up another it might work?

You can get replacements pretty cheap online: https://www.amazon.com/Logitech-Unifying-receiver-mouse-keyboard/dp/B0058OU8VY

I've been using one at work for roughly 6 months on both W7 and W10. No problems what-so-ever on that side of things.

It's definitely possible. Typically if there is something I know is infected that I need to clean, I'll physically detach all my normal storage, boot into a Linux live image, clean it, and then power down and plug stuff back in. Since it's a live image in ram, anything that crossed over would be erased on power down, and I detach storage so it can't try to get onto another partition.

This is incorrect. The Linnmon is absolutely hollow. It uses their honeycombed paper/cardboard filler. It has real wood around the edges and where the legs attach, but the rest is honeycomb. Says so right on their product info:

RAID 0 as well as RAID 1 have basically no overhead, they don't really do any calculations. Because of this software raid works great for them. Other RAID levels like 5 and 6 require really heavy calculations to make the parity data, those typically run poorly on software based RAIDs. However for your needs if you need more speed, you'd be better of getting an nvme pcie based SSD like the 950 pro.

Has anyone figured out how to turn off the lockscreen picture so you don't have to click before typing in your password? You used to be able to do this in group policy under Computer Config->Admin Templates->Control Panel->Personalization->Do not display lockscreen, but that option doesn't seem to be working anymore. There was a similar registry edit you could do as well before the update and that doesn't seem to work either.

Currently running 2 6950s in crossfire. Would love to have a new graphics card because this pair is starting to get really outdated to do triple monitor gaming, and I no longer get any driver updates at all.