typographie

The best thing that could possibly happen with this card is that it ends up in someone else's PC and stays in use for another several years. The ethical thing to do is anything that keeps it out of a landfill. Unless you want to give it to a friend or something, sell it for somewhere around the current going price. You benefit, and so does the person who bought from you instead of a scalper.

To be clear, are you typing 1680 into the "Clock" field in Precision X? What you type in that field is an offset to your base clock speed, so +1680 is just going to max it out to what's allowed in the software. Which is 1890, I guess. If you want to clock down, try a negative value. Edit: And I mean something small. Like -50 or so.

If your GPU is reaching 100% and your CPU is something less, that's generally a positive sign. It means you're getting the most you can out of your GPU and the CPU is not so slow as to get in its way. 100% from the GPU while the CPU is in the 30's or 40's is extremely normal and no fixes are needed. It's a "bottleneck" only in the most pointlessly literal sense of that term. A balanced system will almost never have 100% GPU and 100% CPU load in games, that's just not how games load the system.

You're at a point where your reported temperatures are safe, and it would continue to be safe even a bit higher (Nvidia's max operating temperature for an RTX 2060 is 88*C, fwiw), but I would expect it to be lower if you had good airflow. Have you ever tried taking the side panel off your case while gaming? If you take off the side panel and your GPU temperature plummets, that means you probably have a lot to gain from a better case, better case fan configuration, better cable management, or some combination thereof. It's likely to drop a bit in any case, but if it's a big difference it suggests the case is suffocating the GPU fans.

USUALLY you don't need to worry about buying additional cables if you're building a PC in an ordinary configuration. Component manufacturers usually bundle in what most users will need. But you might need additional cables if you're doing something less ordinary.

Take this with a grain of salt as it is a personal anecdote and a sample size of one... I bought an Asus B550-F and Ryzen 5 5600X back in March. The motherboard had the AMD 5000-series sticker, and it was indeed compatible out of the box. If you're nervous about it, get the latest BIOS from the Asus product page and follow their instructions to put it on a USB drive. In the event that it doesn't ship with the proper BIOS, you should be able to flash it with the USB drive.

Sure, you can definitely run an extra monitor off your iGPU. I've done it myself, I think. But you're very unlikely to see any performance difference versus just using the dedicated graphics. Playing a stream or Youtube video on another monitor while you game is inconsequential for a dedicated GPU. Also, I'm unsure that your web browser would even use the iGPU for graphics acceleration.. it might just default to the fastest available graphics processor regardless of what monitor the window is in.

I would recommend checking with Cinebench to make sure you're actually getting the same performance with and without PBO. As weird as it may sound, there are circumstances where you can see performance regress even though the clock speeds look right. One of the first things I tried to do was some undervolting, and despite my boost speeds going UP for some reason, Cinebench scores got worse. But if you prefer PBO off, it won't hurt anything except (maybe) performance. How much hotter was it with PBO on?

58-63*C under a real CPU load would be an outstanding result. I suspect you were just more GPU-bound at the time you saw that. From what I've read + my experience with my own 5600X, 70's are very much the norm. Even low 80's probably aren't cause for alarm. TjMax for the 5600X is 95*C.

If you're using OBS, set the stream encoder to NVENC ("NVidia ENCoder" I guess) in the Output settings. x264 is the more CPU intensive alternative. For what it's worth, any time I've tried x264 with my Ryzen 5 5600X, it's been totally fine. I don't really expect you'd have any problems either way, but just know NVENC is there as an option. Only in the sense that merely USING a video card shortens its lifespan. You're not doing anything it wasn't designed to do.

The best thing to do would be to refer to a video teardown for your card. I think this is the same model as yours: This guy pulled out the fan headers from the wires and it was fine, but I would suggest trying to get a fingernail under the plastic if you can instead (or just leave them plugged in). Those wires can be snapped or yanked out with alarming ease. I wouldn't expect miracles from this if you're also dealing with some fan issues, but it's an old enough card that a re-paste isn't the worst idea.

It is definitely safe to alter the power limit in Afterburner. It's incredibly unlikely to cause real harm to a video card with a factory VBIOS with any of the settings in Afterburner. I'm not convinced it's necessary, though. If you lower the power limit your GPU is probably going to be constrained and clock down quite a bit. I'd be surprised if it even affected temperature much, unless you're also lowering the core voltage (—don't).

If you're removing the cooler from the CPU, clean it off and apply fresh thermal compound. If you try to reuse it you're probably going to introduce bubbles/voids. To be clear, the length of time isn't important.. 50 days is nothing, of course. The point is keeping a good seal between the heat spreader and cooler.

I'm not sure what's going on in that case, but that's definitely atypical. I encounter tearing on my 144 Hz display at the same times I did on my various 60 Hz displays over the years: when my framerate exceeds the refresh rate cap. And in that extremely rare circumstance, I just cap it somehow. I play most of my games somewhere between 60 and 144 (probably 70-90 most of the time) and I don't think I've ever seen tearing at those framerates.

I found some instructions for setting a custom resolution in Rocket League. Always render native 3840x2160 whenever you can.

It might cause issues if the two kits differ in timings or frequency. If you're buying two identical F4-3200C16D-16GTZN kits, I'm fairly confident it's going to work fine. No one can be 100% certain, but that's basically the best case scenario to fill four RAM slots. 2x16 GB would be ideal. Is that not an option?

Whatever the limits are, 42*C is definitely fine. That's just a hot summer day in some parts of the world. If it's survivable for people, it's fine for silicon and copper. I don't know what a "bad" temperature would be, but the reason we don't usually talk about this is because reaching an unsafe temperature for RAM is extremely unlikely. If you have any airflow in your case at all, it's probably going to be far cooler than your CPU or video card.

Strictly speaking, yes and yes. If you upgrade from slower RAM to faster RAM, your PC is somewhat faster. But how much benefit you get from that improvement depends on what you're doing. Did you ask this with a specific situation in mind? What do you use this PC for?

I'll occasionally cap my framerate to 144 FPS (my refresh rate) when I find a game where I exceed it. I'm not sure why, but going over 144 tends to introduce some stutter sometimes. It's a worse experience, and I'm just converting fossil fuels into heat at that point, so I may as well cap it. I don't think you need to worry about your graphics card's lifespan by running it at 100%, though. As long as its temperature and voltage are safe, letting it run at max capacity shouldn't make any real difference to its lifespan. As long as you're benefiting from it, let it run.

https://www.pcgamingwiki.com/wiki/Dragon_Quest_XI The PCGW article lists a few methods to force anti-aliasing in the game via .ini tweaking. SSAA in particular might yield some noticeable results, but even the TAA listed is probably better than the game's default FXAA. I don't think there's anything wrong with your hardware. It's just a game with shitty options for anti-aliasing, it happens. https://www.pcgamingwiki.com/wiki/Engine:Unreal_Engine_4#Jittery_temporal_anti-aliasing Since the game uses Unreal Engine 4, you might be able to try this edit as well to improve TAA flicker. I have absolutely no idea if it will work or do anything noticeable, though.

Adobe is listing DirectX 12 on their official requirements for the current version of Photoshop, so unfortunately that appears to be non-negotiable. Maybe if you could roll back to an earlier Photoshop version, but I'm unsure if that's an option.

That advertised 3600 MHz is the kit's included XMP/DOCP profile. Your memory will always run at the platform's default until you enable XMP or DOCP in the BIOS. Note that even once you have it set to 3600 MHz, CPU-Z is going to list 1800 MHz. That's just how CPU-Z opts to display data.

That's an average of around 50, but those 1% and 0.1% lows of 1-2 FPS suggest some very rough moments. Metro Exodus might be worth a shot (buy somewhere with a refund policy), but it's going to be worse than BF1. It's hard to predict how much worse, though. The circa-2007 Xeon worries me.

It probably wouldn't affect this behavior anyway, but for the sake of learning there's usually a setting somewhere in the BIOS that allows you to set the PCIe specification. The default is probably "auto" or something similar.

I'm not sure what you're getting at here. The drive itself should continue to work, though I agree that a fresh Windows install is a good idea after such a major hardware change. To be clear, if you plug in everything as it was before and boot up to the same drive, you should get into Windows just fine. But it's a good opportunity to start fresh with a clean install, and it might prevent some issues down the line.