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well i'm just gonna drop my 2 cents here. I run a 2700 at 4.1ghz, and an arctic freezer 34 keeps it under 60C. I don't think a 3600x would need much more than this. I think it costs like 20 usd. Make sure you have good case airflow too.

I think the tubes get softer when the fluid gets warm. Plus plasticizers from the tubes dissolve into the fluid (chemicals which make it flexible). That's why most soft tubes lose some of their flexibilty after they are used in a loop for a while. That weakens the material to a point where a bend which was fine for the first few days/weeks becomes a kink. It loses the flexibility required to hold up against the strain.

i agree, though refilling it wouldn't be the easiest thing ever. I see that there's an extra opening on the side of the block, nevertheless i think it would be far from being an easy job

They look nice, are comfortable to work with and easier to find. I don't even know where I could find g1/4 fittings, maybe a hw store?

I'd suggest putting the A12x25s in push. All fans are a lot more efficient at pushing, and I think that would be at least as much of an improvement as adding x15 fans in the front. But you wouldn't have to spend any money.

In my experience 140 fans are good at supplying a large amount of air at low noise and low pressure. I wouldn't use them on a radiator tho, especially not in an mAtx or iTX case. If looks and price don't matter, from what I've seen, nothing beats the A12x25-s. They can spin faster than other fans at a given noise level. I think that's all that matters on a radiator. I've been planning to buy a few, though I already have 2 nb eloops. I can't find a good reason to fork over the cash for a few noctuas. Best performance, highest price (excluding industrial stuff). I really wanna get a pair for my 240 rad, though I already have 2 nb eloops and those would be already overkill for a 2700. I upgraded from a 7700k to a 2700, that's why I have a loop. I use the 2700 with an arctic freezer 34 (a small 120mm heatsink). My mobo is the limiting factor when overclocking this cpu. It can run at 4.1ghz max 60C, averaging 55C in battlefield 5. The fans around it barely have to spin, I think they top out around 1200 rpm. Imo it's a waste of money to put a 2700 under water (just like non-flagship gpus).

I have tried diluted vinegar and soapy water and hot water. Unfortunately vinegar dissolves copper (to an extent), and it can damage the rubber parts in a loop. I don't recommend that, especially since a few weeks after the treatment, stuff started to grow again. soapy water didn't do much when it came to growth. It helped a bit with bubbles, but that's it. Hot water didn't have a noticeable effect either. I think it's practically impossible to completely clean every part of a loop (especially the radiator). Even if you could clean it 100%, if you were to then use the same type of coolant, it would start all over again. Unfortunately my final solution is not a permanent one by any stretch of the imagination. I use a premixed liquid (by nanoxia) and filter it with household supplies. It dramatically slows down the growth. Now when I notice that the reservoir isn't perfectly clear, I catch the fluid in a bowl and use a 250ml syringe with some cotton to filter the water (i think you could buy a syringe at a supermarket, or most likely in a pharmacy. I use face cleaning cotton disks as filters. I guess a coffee filter paper could be just as good). A surprising amount of stuff gets caught in the cotton, and I reuse the cleaned premixed water.

Have you seen the alphacool eisbaer products? Their LT variants have a smaller block which you might like. If you want to make sure that this bubbling problem doesn't come up again, you could add a reservoir to that. If you don't want to add a large extra part my idea would be to add T fitting with quick disconnects in the inlet tube. You could fill the loop through the quickdisconnect on the 3rd opening of the T fitting, then remove the filler tube.

yes, a mesh frontpanel is practically always better than an acrylic.. However OP wanted to decide between the 3 things he linked. That didn't include the cougar mesh.

fair enough. I just wanted to share my experience with an evga psu.

as far as i know there's very little price difference between cheap large and small radiators. By "fast" I meant 2000 rpm or higher.

The air that's pulled through the radiator isn't hot, it's just a few degrees warmer than the air in your room. The air doesn't get as hot as the cpu (I guess this might be your concern). Pull air into the case, it will be fine.

The water obviously gets warm, so the block is fine. I'd guess either the rad's fans are running too slow, or they aren't getting enough air. I'd definitely try messing with the rear exhaust fan. Slowing it down, stopping it, removing it, turning it around. The gpu's temp increase is most likely due to the res blocking its fan. And I'd suggest finding the highest inaudible operating speed for the pump, and setting that as the lowest speed in its curve. Then at 50 or 60 C its speed could be increased further. Just don't run it unnecessarily slowly. (the same goes for fans btw)

If you could run the fans at full speed, the single xe 360 would probably be enough. The more silence you'd like, the more radiators you need. It doesn't seem like you're on a tight budget, so including a few more fans and fittings with another 240 or 360mm rad shouldn't be an issue. I have not tried a D5, though judging by Linus' praise, one should be able to handle 2 360 rads and 3 blocks. So if silence would be of interest, I suggest considering one more radiator.

well blowing air towards the front panel, "out of the case" would not work at all. You'd see that in 10 minutes. The air would get recycled by the aio fans because it would have nowhere to go. If you really want to see the RGB, install them in "pull" config. Your best bet is installing the rad in the front of the case, the fans pulling air throught it, into the case. If gpu temps get too high, I'd try slowing down the aio fans or speeding up the exhaust fans.

if you were to use a fast enough pump and fans, I'd bet even a thick 120 rad could do the job.

I'd be reluctant to put any aftermarket cooler on a vega because of the hbm... I'd only use fullcover blocks and heatsinks which specifically have "vega" in their name.

All i wanna add is that you shouldn't forget about the exhaust fans, don't slow them down too much. That can be detremental to the gpu temps. Getting the GPU's hot air out of the case is more important the + or - pressure. I solved the gpu temp problem by moving my rad to the top and speeding up the rear exhaust fan a bit. I'm not sure how your aio would fare with the 9900k, if it had to breath the 2080ti's air.

I chose noiseblocker eloops when I was looking for the best fan design. They have a 140mm version too. It's got design elements that break the turbulence at the trailing edge of the blades and at the outside edge of the blades. This causes the noise it produces to be less intrusive. It looks nice, has a small motor, and it's made of very good materials. There's also a long and a short cable included in the box. I don't know what's the fastest they make, but that would be my choice. (Or a set of NF-A12x25s, but unfortunately they don't make those in 140mm)

If it was up to me, I'd definitely not use it in a pc if it was lighter than a 120mm cpu heatsink.

Could you cover the pc with a piece of cloth or something? I don't know for a fact that flipping the switch on the psu every day is bad for it. It just feels intuitively wrong... If i were you I think I'd consider a case with a solid metal sidepanel

I'd suggest the coolermaster bundle. I like their products overall, and the case seems functional, unlike the others which have glass front panels.

I tried a 650w supernova g3 a year ago, and I returned it asap. It was extremely loud, the fan ran at maybe 1800rpm. I don't understand why evga would make allegedly efficient, and still loud psus. I'd had 2 be quiet psus before the evga, and I replaced it with another be quiet straight-power unit. If I had to buy one now, I'd get at least an 80+ gold, either seasonic or be quiet, whichever is cheaper or has better warranty.

the 5700xt and 2700 gave me the most headache i've ever had while setting up a pc (fyi i've used an athlon II x3 455, a 6300, 8320, 7700k and now a 2700. My gpus were a HD 6570, a 270x, 280x, 980 and 5700xt). Luckily I upgrade things piece by piece. I have no idea what I would've felt and done if I got both of these at the same time.

apparently it was just the ram.. It's very strange to me how even standard ddr4 settings didn't work with the old dimms, but the ripjaws work at xmp (3200 16-18-18). Even the POST is faster now.