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My concern is that GPUs often experiance momentary spikes in power draw. This is apparently less of an issue on the newer 40 series cards than it was on 30 series cards but I still have concerns. Tbf, the PSU should protect your hardware if it turns out that 650W wasn't enough, so I guess you could just try the 650W and see how it goes. But I'd 750W now instead of having to make two seperate upgrades.

MB: B450 Tomahawk MAX CPU: Ryzen 7 3800X RAM: 2x DDR4 16GB G. Skill 3600C16 (running at: 3266, as any higher causes my system to BSOD at random moments during gameplay) Storage: Samsung 990 PRO + Heat sink 2TB (M.2 PCIe Gen 3 x 4) & a Samsung 980 1TB (in a PCIe Gen 3 x 4 NVMe adapter card (PCIe 3.0 x4 to M.2))

The switch is factory doesn't even have a config file which is what I'm trying to upload to it

Entirely loose from this why is the back fan in reverse? Onto the subject seems you have a preowned board or something where a wifi card had been instaled previously. Try looking for 2 tiny wires that are hidden under that vrm shroud. Whats under that luke skywalker shroud thingy?

Hmmmm....interesting....so, did you comment on my question about buying a used Thermalright Frozen Edge on here? As usual, I just sit on the fence so I didn't buy it and the other problem was I didn't want to drive where he lives and he doesn't want to drive to where I am (but, there might be a reason to drive pretty close so I left it up to him) - it was a savings of $40 or so - I can't remember now. I am guessing you would advise me to pass for your reasons expressed above?

Honestly its gonna be 50/50. Worst case it just shuts off and well you know whats rhe issue then already. Whats your other hardware? If its an efficient cpu and such you could do it. As for cables you're fine the card comes with a 3x8 pin adapter and you have 2 2x6+2 pin cables.

No A pure 4 core i5 is basically gonna have stuttering in almost every big game since 2018 they are not good. A 7700k is usually EXTREMELY overpriced and gets its ass handed to it by todays super budget new offerings. It is a 4 core 8 thread cpu which is the current minimum so it is going to be ok ish for now but dont expect it for long. I would avoid this generation from intel and if the budgey is low just get a new or used am4 cpu + board

@Tegneren @PDifolco I always find it easier to just scroll down to the cable list The PSU has enough PCIe 6+2 cables, but I'd still be concerned that a 650W PSU wouldn't be powerful to run a 4080 Super. I my opinion OP should get a 750 or 850W PSU (depending on their other hardware).

Kinda confused now I asked before and got told by multiple people it'd be fine: Full specs in that thread too. It was a gift, but yea, I could spend $150. My initial plan was to use the 4080 Super on this PSU for a while until I also upgrade my MOBO, CPU & Case, so I don't have to redo PSU installation in current case and just do it all in 1 new case, once. But if it's what needs to happen, it needs to happen On the Corsair website, it says "QTY: 3 | PCIe 8 pin (6+2) cable". Would have to double-check if correct first, I suppose? As for heavy load: the GPU will be bottle necked by the rest of my hardware until I upgrade CPU, so I wonder if it'll even be able to get to such high loads?

Thanks, will look at those choices shortly. I did just edit in a link to some parts as a starting point to aid discussion and we picked the same mobo! BTW how do you copy/paste that PCPP with links to products? Couldn't find an option to do that.

From what I have seen online about the cgnat. I don't think they are doing that cause my ISP is like AT&T in my region they are quite big and well established. I not sure why it changes back to my mobile phones. I had set to my desktop when setting up for port forwarding. I don't know what that setting do but it gives a list of device when I click on device name. I selected my desktop name and it added my local IPv4 address to the local IP.

And vigorously deflecting all criticism makes you look like a fanboy. What's your point? The video is a rehash of the previous ones and offers nothing new. It's lazy content produced because tons of other people have made similar content for their niche, not because anything of value gets communicated. If you didn't know Shein until now, nothing will change. And the people who knew about them knew of the criticism towards to company long before LTT made a video about it. Never mind that LMG knowing about their business practices does not justify them buying the hardware there. You can make an informative video about Shein's business practices and their terrible pricing for tech products without also trying to make a wacky build video that also directly funds their business.

Windows uses multiples of 1024 when it shows file sizes, disk space, everything. It's a historical thing, from the MS-DOS days and 8086 processors, because back then it was much much easier and faster for processors to divide numbers that are multiples of 2 so dividing by 1024 (which is 210 ) is much faster than dividing by 1000. Let me give you an example: Let's say you have a file size in bytes - 45217 bytes - and you want to display in KB. This value 45217 in binary is 1011 0000 1010 0001 If you want to divide numbers by 2, you can simply delete the last bit, so for example by deleting the last 1, you get 1011 0000 1010 0001 which is 22608 in decimal, or basically 45217 / 2, rounded down. If you want to divide by 1024, you simply remove the last 10 bits, because 1024 is 210 so the binary number becomes 1011 0000 1010 0001 and that 101100 in binary is 44 in decimal, so you got 44 KB, which is close enough to 45.2 KiB to not matter that much. If you were to divide by 1000, you would have to divide by 8, and then you'd have to divide by 125 ... so a lot more cpu cycles would be wasted .. when your processor was running at 4-8 MHz, the difference between 4 cpu cycles and 200-300 cpu cycles to computer one result makes a huge difference. For the same reason, file systems like FAT and FAT32 by default arrange the drive in 512 byte sectors, because 512 is 29 and ba sector was considered the minimum disk space you can reserve, by arranging the millions of bytes in sectors the file system could easily count how many free sectors are available and where empty space is available to put new files. So even if you created a text file with just a few characters, on disk 512 bytes were permanently assigned to that text file. Hard drives were always sold using capacity as millions or billions of bytes, even when you bought a hard drive advertised as 2.1 GB or 4.3 GB, on the drive you would actually read that the drive has at least 2.1 or 4.3 billions of bytes. SSDs kept this method of expressing sizes even though they don't have to, because it gives them the ability to hide a portion of the Flash memory and use that hidden portion as spares (to extend the life of the drive) or to store information about the data stored in the flash memory chips the controller can use for internal things. Flash memory chips are actually manufactured using multiples of 8 and 1024, so for example a 2 TB SSD would be made with 2 1024 GB Flash memory chips for a total of 2048 GB, where each GB is 1024 MB, where each MB is 1024 x 1024 bytes,or around : 2 x 1024 x 1024 x 1024 x 1024 = 2,199,023,255,552 bytes but the SSD manufacturer will sell it to you as 2,000,000,000,000 bytes or 1907 GB (if you use multiples of 1024) or 1.86 TB (again, using multiples of 1024). When you format the partition, a bit of space is used by the file system, so that would explain why you see 1.83 TB at the end. Or, there may be a small 500 MB - 1 GB recovery partition besides your main big partition created on the drive.

That's what I would get PCPartPicker Part List CPU Cooler: Thermalright Phantom Spirit 120 SE 66.17 CFM CPU Cooler (£36.29 @ Amazon UK) Motherboard: Asus ROG STRIX B650E-F GAMING WIFI ATX AM5 Motherboard (£214.99 @ Amazon UK) Memory: G.Skill Trident Z5 Neo 64 GB (2 x 32 GB) DDR5-6000 CL30 Memory (£223.38 @ Amazon UK) Storage: Western Digital Black SN850X 2 TB M.2-2280 PCIe 4.0 X4 NVME Solid State Drive (£149.99 @ AWD-IT) Case: Lian Li LANCOOL III ATX Mid Tower Case (£139.00 @ Computer Orbit) Power Supply: be quiet! Pure Power 12 M 850 W 80+ Gold Certified Fully Modular ATX Power Supply (£117.80 @ NeoComputers) Total: £881.45 Prices include shipping, taxes, and discounts when available Generated by PCPartPicker 2024-04-26 11:03 BST+0100

what parts should i buy 1k usd

Nope, performance of the code is only one pillar of shipping out a feature and never the most important pillar at that. Any good engineering manager would tell you this. Rather, it is done incrementally and treated with the same priority and urgency as refactoring out legacy code, that is to say, ignore until needed. Especially so for user applications instead of system libraries. Seems like you are out of touch. I've review countless PRs, I am not impressed if I see fancy alogrithms doing fancy dynamic programming whose look up table is a fancy recursively transverse red black tree when all it needed is a simple double for loop. Downright silly to write every single piece of code as if you are working with an embedded device with no more 100mb of ram. You better tell me it has a well deserve reason to be written that way before I throw the PR into the trash bin.

Budget (including currency): Don't want to put a figure down, but I want stability, features and performance (in that priority order) without going excessive in spending Country: UK Games, programs or workloads that it will be used for: Gaming focus - resolution/quality over fps. Other details (existing parts lists, whether any peripherals are needed, what you're upgrading from, when you're going to buy, what resolution and refresh rate you want to play at, etc): I've been kicking my X299 system (see sig) to keep it going and I've had enough. It works but I want to return to higher end gaming performance and can simplify requirements by dropping productivity considerations out of the equation. I'm coming into some money soon so this seems a good time. Did debate waiting for Zen 5 but I can always swap CPU later. Already have: 4070, will update next gen. Currently 1440p 144 Hz G-Sync native display, looking to move to 4k in future. Already decided on: 7800X3D Need: ATX mobo - should have 2.5gbe included, wifi nice extra but not essential. PCIe 5.0 support for GPU preferred (requires "Extreme" chipset?). More M.2 slots better. Cooler - Air, low noise Ram - 2x 32GB should suffice, should be 2R modules, doesn't need to be insane speed. Stability over performance. PSU - High efficiency unit preferred. Should have headroom for more powerful CPUs and GPUs in future. Currently using 850W units in various systems and around that should be ok. SSD - 2TB with DRAM PCIe 4.0 model will suffice initially (what's the 980 Pro of today? 990 Pro? Alternatives?). No DRAM-less or HMB. I can add lower tier for bulk storage later. Case is personal choice so I'll look myself separately. Still, would welcome suggestions on ATX towers with high airflow. Window not necessary. Following to aid as a starting point: https://uk.pcpartpicker.com/list/HPBgjH

Banned because I have never heard about Fourier transformations. (They also seem like a type of math above my paygrade)

The 7900XTX is a big hot fat boy (I got one I know), 70C on it is not really good as it means hotspot is around 95C+, and that the inside of the case gets hot with the 400W+ generated heat What's your GPU fan speed/curve ? And I suppose/hope your AIO rad fans are on push/exhaust Maybe you also need to increase AIO and case fans speed to move air faster, I've gained 5C on the GPU (so 12C+ on hotspot) just with that Another solution is to undervolt your CPU with PBO, try CO -15 all cores

Less bad, worth more than half a 5600X But really I won't go 7th gen now, you can get something like a 12600K+Board for $200 that will blow the 7700K out of the water

Photo in question for OP

How tf is this thread still running?

Hi there! WIndows 10Home 64Bit Processor: AMD Ryzen 7 7800X3D Cooler: be quiet! Pure Loop 2 FX 240mm Memory: G.Skill Trident Z5 NEO RGB Graphics Card: PowerColor Hellhound Radeon RX 7900 XTX Mainboard: ASUS Prime B650-Plus Case: AZZA Storm 6000-ARGB PSU: GIGABYTE P1000GM 1000W The Cooler is mounted on the top of the case with the Fans below the radiator. The Case has 3 Fans included - 2 in front -one on the rear. All drivers are updated via Armory Crate and AMD installer. When doing only a CPU load like Prime95 smalles FFTs the CPU always stays below 75°C But when doing CPU and GPU intense tasks such as running prime95 and Furmark for a while the CPU temperature keeps rising. The GPU in the meantime is about 70°C Especially fast this can be seen in the game Nightingale when after around 20 Minutes the CPU maxes 89°C and sometimes the PC shuts thermal related down. Because the fact that CPU temp is good when it's the used but maxes out when GPU and CPU is used I expect it may be an airflow related issue related to the case and the case fans. Do you think upgrading the Case fans could resolve this issue or do you think the issue could be related to something different?

Weird, my pic came from Corsair website, maybe it has changed... With 2 cables it's kinda ok but not sure the PSU will manage spikes Anyway, if you have $1000 for a GPU you can spend $150 for a decent PSU

How about i upgrade to an i7-7700k?