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Less bad, worth more than half a 5600X But really I won't go 7th gen now, you can get something like a 12600K+Board for $200 that will blow the 7700K out of the water

Photo in question for OP

How tf is this thread still running?

Hi there! Processor: AMD Ryzen 7 7800X3D Cooler: be quiet! Pure Loop 2 FX 240mm Memory: G.Skill Trident Z5 NEO RGB Graphics Card: PowerColor Hellhound Radeon RX 7900 XTX Mainboard: ASUS Prime B650-Plus Case: AZZA Storm 6000-ARGB PSU: GIGABYTE P1000GM 1000W The Cooler is mounted on the top of the case with the Fans below the radiator. The Case has 3 Fans included - 2 in front -one on the rear. All drivers are updated via Armory Crate and AMD installer. When doing only a CPU load like Prime95 smalles FFTs the CPU always stays below 75°C But when doing CPU and GPU intense tasks such as running prime95 and Furmark for a while the CPU temperature keeps rising. The GPU in the meantime is about 70°C Especially fast this can be seen in the game Nightingale when after around 20 Minutes the CPU maxes 89°C and sometimes the PC shuts thermal related down. Because the fact that CPU temp is good when it's the used but maxes out when GPU and CPU is used I expect it may be an airflow related issue related to the case and the case fans. Do you think upgrading the Case fans could resolve this issue or do you think the issue could be related to something different?

Weird, my pic came from Corsair website, maybe it has changed... With 2 cables it's kinda ok but not sure the PSU will manage spikes Anyway, if you have $1000 for a GPU you can spend $150 for a decent PSU

How about i upgrade to an i7-7700k?

Just played some random.org with the ram sticks and suddenly it just works. Aka : Just play with your ram sticks, move them, put them back, switch them etc and eventually it will work.

1080 is okay for 1080p, performance close to a 6600 But 7400.. 4C/4T not even worth half of a 5600X, not good...

No, it's because often components are connected in PARALLEL with other components in the circuit, so the tester can get confused. If you want accurate measurements, you need to desolder at least one leg of the component. The device may advertise "in-circuit" testing but that's misleading, it doesn't mean you'll get accurate measurements in circuit. It just means the test voltages are low enough that there's minimal or no chance for some component to be turned on by the power sent by the meter through the probes.

I dont know where you got that, but the picture in the link OP posted shows it comes with two pigtailed 6+2 pin PCIe cables

The board not coming with built in WiFi is not that unusual, plenty of motherboards nowadays don't come with it. The weird part is that it has the antenna mounts on the IO shield. ASRock frequently puts antenna mount holes in the IO shield so if you buy a laptop WiFi card in the future, you can easily mount the studs on the IO shield and have what looks like stock WiFi. However, on the half dozen ASRock boards I've used with this system, I've never seen one come with these studs preinstalled that didn't have built in WiFi, and judging by the photos on the product page it shouldn't either. That would lead me to believe that either you manually installed them to upgrade this board to WiFi, or you're the second owner of this board (either you bought it used or it was returned and resold as new with the previous owner forgetting to remove those studs from the board).

Depends on the games and many other factors.

But more towards what?

Both

Does it make a good combination or a good bottlenecking experience?

Looks reasonable, and I think TeraSeraph proved a similar design last year. However, I think she did back to front flow.

Instead of asking for how to hook up multiple capture cards, tell us what you intend to do with them. This sounds like a classic XY Problem, where you're asking for help with your intended solution instead of a solution for your actual problem.

Asus, NZXT, Phantex, DeepCool, Cooler Master, EVGA, Gigabyte, Thermaltake on NewEgg, and they're all being sold for over $300 by third-party vendors, some of whom are charging a large shipping fee, too. If you go to Amazon, you'll find even higher 3rd-party prices and even more brands. It's a race to the greed pool.

Nah You only have 1 pigtailed Pcie 8+8 cable, you need normally 2 to power a 4080 that needs 320W+spikes I'm not sure the GPU will even work with that, but even then 650W is weakish for a 320W card, and it's an old PSU Get something better 750W+ wit proper cables (at least 8 pin PCie on the PSU side)

My tv resolution can be 4K but right now i'm satisfied with 1440p because of the cable which can't handle 4K. So for all non gaming things I have my pc at 1440p. But when I want to game I have to switch to 1080P.

So, in a dramatic twist it seems that the warning that popped up on the other drive shortly after I added the 3rd drive has some sort of actual issue. I used a seperate power and data cable for drive 3, so I didn't come close to the other drive to possibly bend or crack something. I swapped the SATA power and data cable on that warning drive and switched the port it was in, and I'm still coming up with the same warning message. It also refuses to come up in CrystalDiskInfo like the other 2, yet it does show up in storage spaces. Also, when rebooting it blue screened once I logged in with a "pool failure" message. Nothing since but that was 20 minutes ago and I'm done for tonight lol Any ideas as to what my next step should be here? I was thinking add in my 4th drive, "Optimize" or whatever so the data is redistributed/copied among the drives, and use that remove option to get that drive out of the storage space and maybe just reformat it or something. I'll gladly take any direction that isn't as drastic as my idea, it's just the conclusion I have after pondering this for a few hours. Please let me know, thank you!

any luck? even with the repasting and everything checked deeply. my temps at 20% load hits 95c-100C. Although it does not thermal throttle but the fan noise is very loud and very uncomfortable.

Hello, I'm encountering a very annoying problem with my PC. I've noticed that when I turn on virtual machines (such as Android emulators or VMWare MacOS), the host machine begins to stutter. This issue becomes immediately noticeable through crackling audio and microfreezes in videos, mouse movements and RGB lagging. Despite the CPU usage being around 50% and RAM being around 65%, which I believe should not be causing the problem. The issue is more noticeable when the VM window is in focus. Here are my PC specifications: OS: Windows 11 Pro CPU: Intel 13700K Motherboard: Gigabyte Z790 AORUS ELITE AX RAM: Corsair Dominator Platinum 32GB DDR5 GPU: AMD Radeon RX 6950 XT PSU: Corsair HX1000i CPU Cooler: Corsair H150i Capellix XT Headphones: Corsair HS80 Mouse: Corsair Ironclaw RGB Wireless Keyboard: Corsair Strafe RGB I have ensured that the BIOS, drivers, programs, and OS are all up to date. Interestingly, this issue never occurs when I'm gaming or rendering. Do you have any clues on what might be causing this? I'm open to suggestions. Thanks!

i think you need a replacement speaker, check aliexpress if you can find one and simple replace this.

My dad has been a programmer for over 40 years, so he's a veteran by any metric. He never cared about keyboards. He always used cheap membrane keyboards at home and whatever his employers handed out at work by default and these days he uses whatever laptop he has (no, he also doesn't particularly care about specs either) and just types on the built-in keyboard.