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I recently bought a new Wireless Network Adapter to replace my old one after it had broke. It is a ANEWKODI 600Mbps USB WiFi Adapter USB Wireless Adapter Dual Band network adapter. When I first plugged it in everything worked just fine. Nothing was going wrong. But lately every time I restart my computer I would get a Red X on my wireless network. I have spent hours trying to resolve this issue and other than buying a new one I want to know what the problem was. I tried updating drivers, uninstalling and re installing, disabling power management, disable and enabled it, and so on. It does work on occasions but only after I unplug it and plug it back in. But then it disconnects from my USB ports after I restart the computer or have it shut down for several hours. I am wondering what are some other solutions that I can try that will fix my wifi network problem? I am currently running Windows 10.

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Sounds like it's overheating, a common issue with many cheaper USB wireless adapters.


The further you are from the signal, or if you're actively searching for networks, the harder the adapter needs to work and the more heat it'll produce. 

If there's available software for it, download it and see if you can turn the signal strength down from 10 to 6 or 7. 

 

4 possible solutions,

1) Drivers

2) buy a reputable dongle (TP-Link, Dlink etc), 

3) buy an AP (access point) for your desktop (wireless router in reverse, takes wifi and gives LAN), 

or 4) create some kind of janktastic solution to cool your current adapter. It could be as easy as taking the casing off and using a USB fan, or as dumb as putting a penny and some thermal paste inside the casing. 

My rig:

CPU: Ryzen 7 5800x

MB: Gigabyte B450 I Aorus Pro WiFi

RAM: Kingston Fury Beast RGB 32GB (2x16GB) 3600mhz CL16 (1-to-1 Infinity Fabric enabled)

GPU: Gigabyte RTX 2080 Super

*bought for $200 CAD off a friend who needed an RTX 3080, price was my reward.

CASE: InWinn A1 Plus in White with included 600w gold sfx PSU and included custom length cables

DISPLAY: 3x 20" AOC 1080p 60hz 4ms ,  32" RCA 1080p/60hz TV mounted above, all on a single arm.

 

Storage: C : 1TB WD Blue NVMe      D : 2TB Barracuda      E: 240GB Kingston V300 (scratch drive)

NAS: 240GB Kingston A400 + 6x 10+ year old 700GB Barracuda drives in my old FX8350+8GB DDR3 system

 

Logitech G15 1st Gen + Logitech G602 Wireless

Steam Controller +  Elite Series 2 controller + Logitech G29 Racing Wheel + Wingman Extreme Digital 3D Flight Stick

Sennheiser HD 4.40 Headphones + Pixel Buds 2 + Logitech Z213 2.1 Speakers

 

My Girlfriends Weeb-Ass Rig:

Razer Blade Pro 17 2020

10th Gen i7 10875H 8c/16t @5.1ghz 

17.3" 1080p 300Hz 100% sRGB, factory calibrated, 6mm bezel

RTX 2070 Max-Q 8GB

512GB generic NVMe

16GB (2x8GB) DDR4 3200Mhz

Wireless-AX201 (802.11a/b/g/n/ac/ax), Bluetooth® 5.1, 2.5Gbit Ethernet

70.5 Whr Battery

Razer Huntsman Quartz, Razer Balistic Quartz, Razer Kraken Quartz Kitty Heaphones

*deep breath*

Razer Raptor 27" monitor, IT'S BEAUTIFUL.

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7 hours ago, Chronified said:

Sounds like it's overheating, a common issue with many cheaper USB wireless adapters.


The further you are from the signal, or if you're actively searching for networks, the harder the adapter needs to work and the more heat it'll produce. 

If there's available software for it, download it and see if you can turn the signal strength down from 10 to 6 or 7. 

 

4 possible solutions,

1) Drivers

2) buy a reputable dongle (TP-Link, Dlink etc), 

3) buy an AP (access point) for your desktop (wireless router in reverse, takes wifi and gives LAN), 

or 4) create some kind of janktastic solution to cool your current adapter. It could be as easy as taking the casing off and using a USB fan, or as dumb as putting a penny and some thermal paste inside the casing. 

3) An Access Point is what broadcasts WiFi, identical to how a wireless router works.

I'm not sure if there is an official definition of what you are describing, its basically a WiFi to Ethernet bridge where it "pretends" to be a WiFi Client then translates that traffic back into ethernet for a single device.  It seems every vendor calls them something different, such as https://www.netgear.com/home/products/connected-entertainment/gaming-home-theater/WNCE2001.aspx.

Also, it seems unlikely this is heat related as they said it ONLY happens when they reboot.  So it seems the device is not correctly resetting due to either a bug in the drivers or hardware itself.

Personally I wouldn't recommend getting 802.11n devices anyway, its old technology and even if your router isn't 802.11ac today, it might be upgraded later so better to have an adapter that supports it.

ASUS B650E-F GAMING WIFI + R7 7800X3D + 2x Corsair Vengeance 32GB DDR5-6000 CL30-36-36-76  + ASUS RTX 4090 TUF Gaming OC

Router:  Intel N100 (pfSense) Backup: GL.iNet GL-X3000/ Spitz AX Switches: Netgear MS510TXUP, MS510TXPP, GS110EMX
WiFi6: Zyxel NWA210AX (1.7Gbit peak at 160Mhz) WiFi5: Ubiquiti NanoHD OpenWRT (~500Mbit at 80Mhz)
ISPs: Zen Full Fibre 900 (~930Mbit down, 115Mbit up) + Three 5G (~1200Mbit down, 115Mbit up, variable)
Upgrading Laptop/Desktop CNVIo WiFi 5 cards to PCIe WiFi6e/7

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I have encountered a new problem after doing some more fixes. 

 

So I tried to unplug my network adapter into another USB port to see if that will change. I did manage to get rid of the Red X but my PC was confused after I put in my Keyboard and Mouse in the blue USB slots. I then switched it back with my Wifi dongle in the blue port. When I plugged it back in it got rid of the Red X problem. But only now to have a problem with a white asterisk symbol next to my Wifi network. I tried to type in my password to my Wifi network and it would not let me in. Even if I got the password totally correct. It would then switch to a Red X next to the ethernet icon and then a white asterisk symbol afterwards.

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1 hour ago, Alex Atkin UK said:

3) An Access Point is what broadcasts WiFi, identical to how a wireless router works.

I'm not sure if there is an official definition of what you are describing, its basically a WiFi to Ethernet bridge where it "pretends" to be a WiFi Client then translates that traffic back into ethernet for a single device.  It seems every vendor calls them something different, such as https://www.netgear.com/home/products/connected-entertainment/gaming-home-theater/WNCE2001.aspx.
 

All new Asus routers have this feature, as well as most TP-Link and Dlink routers newer than 2014 that aren't <$50. 

 

Tech community commonly refers to them as a Wireless AP because we all know to call the router a router. The technical term is "bridge mode" for what you select on the router, or a "bridge router" for the smaller, dedicated ones you commonly see in Hotel rooms like this guy

image.jpeg.b0831ef88cd31356ed217c9aead6e245.jpeg

My rig:

CPU: Ryzen 7 5800x

MB: Gigabyte B450 I Aorus Pro WiFi

RAM: Kingston Fury Beast RGB 32GB (2x16GB) 3600mhz CL16 (1-to-1 Infinity Fabric enabled)

GPU: Gigabyte RTX 2080 Super

*bought for $200 CAD off a friend who needed an RTX 3080, price was my reward.

CASE: InWinn A1 Plus in White with included 600w gold sfx PSU and included custom length cables

DISPLAY: 3x 20" AOC 1080p 60hz 4ms ,  32" RCA 1080p/60hz TV mounted above, all on a single arm.

 

Storage: C : 1TB WD Blue NVMe      D : 2TB Barracuda      E: 240GB Kingston V300 (scratch drive)

NAS: 240GB Kingston A400 + 6x 10+ year old 700GB Barracuda drives in my old FX8350+8GB DDR3 system

 

Logitech G15 1st Gen + Logitech G602 Wireless

Steam Controller +  Elite Series 2 controller + Logitech G29 Racing Wheel + Wingman Extreme Digital 3D Flight Stick

Sennheiser HD 4.40 Headphones + Pixel Buds 2 + Logitech Z213 2.1 Speakers

 

My Girlfriends Weeb-Ass Rig:

Razer Blade Pro 17 2020

10th Gen i7 10875H 8c/16t @5.1ghz 

17.3" 1080p 300Hz 100% sRGB, factory calibrated, 6mm bezel

RTX 2070 Max-Q 8GB

512GB generic NVMe

16GB (2x8GB) DDR4 3200Mhz

Wireless-AX201 (802.11a/b/g/n/ac/ax), Bluetooth® 5.1, 2.5Gbit Ethernet

70.5 Whr Battery

Razer Huntsman Quartz, Razer Balistic Quartz, Razer Kraken Quartz Kitty Heaphones

*deep breath*

Razer Raptor 27" monitor, IT'S BEAUTIFUL.

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18 minutes ago, LTT_Member said:

 new problem 

PC confused

 white asterisk symbol

t would not let me in

Red X next to the ethernet icon

As for your adapter, I'd say it's as good as toast. 

 

Go on Amazon/eBay and search "bridge router" and get the cheapest option with prime you can. 

I'd suggest this $40 guy. Does what I was talking about in the comment above. 
https://www.amazon.ca/TP-Link-TL-WR802N-Wireless-Repeater-300Mbps/dp/B00TQEX8BO/ref=sr_1_1?rps=1&amp;ie=UTF8&amp;qid=1541914772&amp;sr=8-1&amp;keywords=wireless+bridge+router&amp;refinements=p_85%3A5690392011

 

61Es9pAUYjL._SL1500_.jpg

My rig:

CPU: Ryzen 7 5800x

MB: Gigabyte B450 I Aorus Pro WiFi

RAM: Kingston Fury Beast RGB 32GB (2x16GB) 3600mhz CL16 (1-to-1 Infinity Fabric enabled)

GPU: Gigabyte RTX 2080 Super

*bought for $200 CAD off a friend who needed an RTX 3080, price was my reward.

CASE: InWinn A1 Plus in White with included 600w gold sfx PSU and included custom length cables

DISPLAY: 3x 20" AOC 1080p 60hz 4ms ,  32" RCA 1080p/60hz TV mounted above, all on a single arm.

 

Storage: C : 1TB WD Blue NVMe      D : 2TB Barracuda      E: 240GB Kingston V300 (scratch drive)

NAS: 240GB Kingston A400 + 6x 10+ year old 700GB Barracuda drives in my old FX8350+8GB DDR3 system

 

Logitech G15 1st Gen + Logitech G602 Wireless

Steam Controller +  Elite Series 2 controller + Logitech G29 Racing Wheel + Wingman Extreme Digital 3D Flight Stick

Sennheiser HD 4.40 Headphones + Pixel Buds 2 + Logitech Z213 2.1 Speakers

 

My Girlfriends Weeb-Ass Rig:

Razer Blade Pro 17 2020

10th Gen i7 10875H 8c/16t @5.1ghz 

17.3" 1080p 300Hz 100% sRGB, factory calibrated, 6mm bezel

RTX 2070 Max-Q 8GB

512GB generic NVMe

16GB (2x8GB) DDR4 3200Mhz

Wireless-AX201 (802.11a/b/g/n/ac/ax), Bluetooth® 5.1, 2.5Gbit Ethernet

70.5 Whr Battery

Razer Huntsman Quartz, Razer Balistic Quartz, Razer Kraken Quartz Kitty Heaphones

*deep breath*

Razer Raptor 27" monitor, IT'S BEAUTIFUL.

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3 hours ago, LTT_Member said:

Now whenever I unplug my USB wireless network and plug it back in my PC will shut off and restart. I did that again recently and my PC won't turn on when I hit the power.

 

Edit: PC restarted after I unpluged network adapter.

 

Please, for the sake of your PC, return the adapter.

 

If you have an Android phone you can use your phone as the WiFi dongle until you get a new one.

My rig:

CPU: Ryzen 7 5800x

MB: Gigabyte B450 I Aorus Pro WiFi

RAM: Kingston Fury Beast RGB 32GB (2x16GB) 3600mhz CL16 (1-to-1 Infinity Fabric enabled)

GPU: Gigabyte RTX 2080 Super

*bought for $200 CAD off a friend who needed an RTX 3080, price was my reward.

CASE: InWinn A1 Plus in White with included 600w gold sfx PSU and included custom length cables

DISPLAY: 3x 20" AOC 1080p 60hz 4ms ,  32" RCA 1080p/60hz TV mounted above, all on a single arm.

 

Storage: C : 1TB WD Blue NVMe      D : 2TB Barracuda      E: 240GB Kingston V300 (scratch drive)

NAS: 240GB Kingston A400 + 6x 10+ year old 700GB Barracuda drives in my old FX8350+8GB DDR3 system

 

Logitech G15 1st Gen + Logitech G602 Wireless

Steam Controller +  Elite Series 2 controller + Logitech G29 Racing Wheel + Wingman Extreme Digital 3D Flight Stick

Sennheiser HD 4.40 Headphones + Pixel Buds 2 + Logitech Z213 2.1 Speakers

 

My Girlfriends Weeb-Ass Rig:

Razer Blade Pro 17 2020

10th Gen i7 10875H 8c/16t @5.1ghz 

17.3" 1080p 300Hz 100% sRGB, factory calibrated, 6mm bezel

RTX 2070 Max-Q 8GB

512GB generic NVMe

16GB (2x8GB) DDR4 3200Mhz

Wireless-AX201 (802.11a/b/g/n/ac/ax), Bluetooth® 5.1, 2.5Gbit Ethernet

70.5 Whr Battery

Razer Huntsman Quartz, Razer Balistic Quartz, Razer Kraken Quartz Kitty Heaphones

*deep breath*

Razer Raptor 27" monitor, IT'S BEAUTIFUL.

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