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help! I think new mobo fried my psu

7mtyler
By 7mtyler
in Troubleshooting
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Hey all...

 

I think my new motherboard fried my psu... 

 

Specs: 

 

Intel i5 6600k (with a CM Hyper 212 evo)

Gigabyte Z170X-UD3

2x8gb Corsair Vengeance RGB 

GTX 1060 3gb

1 275gb ssd and a 1tb hdd

 

EVGA 450b psu (450w, obviously)

 

 

Here's what happened. I built the pc on the motherboard box (even connecting case connections so I could use the power button). Booted to windows no problem, but shut off after a couple minutes. I made it into bios the next time, and again it shut off after like a minute. From then on I was in a boot loop. it would post fine but then shut off. After doing that for a minute, the power light on the case and the rgb lights in the ram started blinking on and off steadily (no fans spinning). I turned everything off and now I can't get anything to turn on. I tried a paperclip in the PSU and it seems to be dead, also I'm scared I probably fried everything else too. 

 

any idea what caused this?

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What was your old motherboard?

I WILL find your ITX build thread, and I WILL recommend the SIlverstone Sugo SG13B

 

Primary PC:

i7 8086k - EVGA Z370 Classified K - G.Skill Trident Z RGB - WD SN750 - Jedi Order Titan Xp - Hyper 212 Black (with RGB Riing flair) - EVGA G3 650W - dual booting Windows 10 and Linux - Black and green theme, Razer brainwashed me.

Draws 400 watts under max load, for reference.

 

How many watts do I need? ATX 3.0 & PCIe 5.0 spec, PSU misconceptions, protections explained, group reg is bad

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I think it's more likely that your PSU was defective. Can you RMA it?

I enjoy buying junk and sinking more money than it's worth into it to make it less junk.

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Just now, 7mtyler said:

I bought the z170 so I could overclock my cpu a bit

Did you try putting your old configuration back together?

I WILL find your ITX build thread, and I WILL recommend the SIlverstone Sugo SG13B

 

Primary PC:

i7 8086k - EVGA Z370 Classified K - G.Skill Trident Z RGB - WD SN750 - Jedi Order Titan Xp - Hyper 212 Black (with RGB Riing flair) - EVGA G3 650W - dual booting Windows 10 and Linux - Black and green theme, Razer brainwashed me.

Draws 400 watts under max load, for reference.

 

How many watts do I need? ATX 3.0 & PCIe 5.0 spec, PSU misconceptions, protections explained, group reg is bad

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unfortunately I no longer have the old mobo :( I sold it the other day

 

 

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1 minute ago, aisle9 said:

I think it's more likely that your PSU was defective. Can you RMA it?

The psu was fine on the old mobo for over a year

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16 minutes ago, 7mtyler said:

EVGA 450b psu (450w, obviously)

Pretty crap unit, so wouldn't surprise me if it died.
Do you have a new PSU you can test with?
 

 

18 minutes ago, 7mtyler said:

Here's what happened. I built the pc on the motherboard box (even connecting case connections so I could use the power button). Booted to windows no problem, but shut off after a couple minutes. I made it into bios the next time, and again it shut off after like a minute. From then on I was in a boot loop. it would post fine but then shut off.

Have you tried clearing the BIOS? Unplug the system and remove the CMOS battery. I'm guessing you bought the Z170 used? The system might not have liked whatever settings was on it from the previous owner who likely had a different CPU paired with the board and maybe had some custom overclocks applied that were stable with his CPU but aren't stable with your CPU.

CPU: Intel i7 6700k  | Motherboard: Gigabyte Z170x Gaming 5 | RAM: 2x16GB 3000MHz Corsair Vengeance LPX | GPU: Gigabyte Aorus GTX 1080ti | PSU: Corsair RM750x (2018) | Case: BeQuiet SilentBase 800 | Cooler: Arctic Freezer 34 eSports | SSD: Samsung 970 Evo 500GB + Samsung 840 500GB + Crucial MX500 2TB | Monitor: Acer Predator XB271HU + Samsung BX2450

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I just want to know if someone has experienced that blinking lights thing before

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Just now, Spotty said:

Pretty crap unit, so wouldn't surprise me if it died.
Do you have a new PSU you can test with?
 

 

Have you tried clearing the BIOS? Unplug the system and remove the CMOS battery. I'm guessing you bought the Z170 used? The system might not have liked whatever settings was on it from the previous owner who likely had a different CPU paired with the board and maybe had some custom overclocks applied that were stable with his CPU but aren't stable with your CPU.

thanks for the reply. Yeah the PSU was gonna be my next upgrade, so maybe I'll just do that now lol. the z170 was a manufacture refurbished unit. I'd try that battery trick if I had another psu to try it with. Maybe I'll find someone I can borrow one from 

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1 minute ago, 7mtyler said:

I just want to know if someone has experienced that blinking lights thing before

yeah but with a crap unbranded PSU, problem was the 3.3V signal cable

ASUS X470-PRO • R7 1700 4GHz • Corsair H110i GT P/P • 2x MSI RX 480 8G • Corsair DP 2x8 @3466 • EVGA 750 G2 • Corsair 730T • Crucial MX500 250GB • WD 4TB

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5 minutes ago, 7mtyler said:

I just want to know if someone has experienced that blinking lights thing before

Not that exact scenario with RGB RAM, but I have had motherboards do similar things with rapid power cycling and failing to finish POSTing. It's always been a bad power supply (or damage caused by a bad PSU).

I enjoy buying junk and sinking more money than it's worth into it to make it less junk.

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I’m gonna go pick up a new psu and see if it fixes it. I’ll need a new one anyways 

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5 minutes ago, 7mtyler said:

I’m gonna go pick up a new psu and see if it fixes it. I’ll need a new one anyways 

What unit are you thinking of buying?
No point replacing one bad unit with another bad unit.

 

We can help you pick if you need help picking out what to buy.

CPU: Intel i7 6700k  | Motherboard: Gigabyte Z170x Gaming 5 | RAM: 2x16GB 3000MHz Corsair Vengeance LPX | GPU: Gigabyte Aorus GTX 1080ti | PSU: Corsair RM750x (2018) | Case: BeQuiet SilentBase 800 | Cooler: Arctic Freezer 34 eSports | SSD: Samsung 970 Evo 500GB + Samsung 840 500GB + Crucial MX500 2TB | Monitor: Acer Predator XB271HU + Samsung BX2450

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I’m on a budget. I can only afford something like a Corsair CX 650M right now. Would that be decent enough? 

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41 minutes ago, 7mtyler said:

I’m on a budget. I can only afford something like a Corsair CX 650M right now. Would that be decent enough? 

That is a decent power supply, suitable replacement for your last one.

I WILL find your ITX build thread, and I WILL recommend the SIlverstone Sugo SG13B

 

Primary PC:

i7 8086k - EVGA Z370 Classified K - G.Skill Trident Z RGB - WD SN750 - Jedi Order Titan Xp - Hyper 212 Black (with RGB Riing flair) - EVGA G3 650W - dual booting Windows 10 and Linux - Black and green theme, Razer brainwashed me.

Draws 400 watts under max load, for reference.

 

How many watts do I need? ATX 3.0 & PCIe 5.0 spec, PSU misconceptions, protections explained, group reg is bad

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It’s working!!! Bestbuy had the cheapest price on that pay so I went and bought one. Thanks everyone for the help!

7E1C1237-33DA-44F4-89BF-B666E1CF61D1.jpeg

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Just now, 7mtyler said:

It’s working!!! Bestbuy had the cheapest price on that pay so I went and bought one. Thanks everyone for the help!

7E1C1237-33DA-44F4-89BF-B666E1CF61D1.jpeg

Relief to see your other components still work.

I WILL find your ITX build thread, and I WILL recommend the SIlverstone Sugo SG13B

 

Primary PC:

i7 8086k - EVGA Z370 Classified K - G.Skill Trident Z RGB - WD SN750 - Jedi Order Titan Xp - Hyper 212 Black (with RGB Riing flair) - EVGA G3 650W - dual booting Windows 10 and Linux - Black and green theme, Razer brainwashed me.

Draws 400 watts under max load, for reference.

 

How many watts do I need? ATX 3.0 & PCIe 5.0 spec, PSU misconceptions, protections explained, group reg is bad

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