Possibly Dead CPU/Motherboard

[Rodman101]

Hey all,

 

So I decided to custom watercool my PC this weekend. I managed to get everything going and after a 24 hour leak test, I dumped the SysPrep and poured in my long term fluid. I turned the system on for the first time and everything was fine. I powered it off to do some last minute cable management and turned it back on with no issues. 

 

After it settled down for a few minutes, I opened up AI Suite and configured my fans to a nice profile to stay quiet. Then I popped open HwInfo64 and my favorite Unigine benchmark: Superposition.The benchmark was running well at 2560x1440, High with the core on my 1080ti at sub 40 degrees. But then everything went to hell.

 

The computer hard froze requiring me to flip the switch on the PSU to shut it off. When I went to turn it back on, the motherboard is showing a Post code of 00, which is unused according to the motherboard manual. I took apart the loop to re-seat the processor, ram, and the Graphics card, but nothing changes the code. The surface mounted buttons on the motherboard all work when pressed so I don't think I have a dead board. Also, the board, while showing a 00 post code, looks like it's going through its initialization sequence with the HDD, RAM, fans, and GPU all showing signs of life and illuminating at the times they normally would (everything is RGB so I'm used to seeing them light up when they initialize). But, the little LEDs by the 24-pin that correspond to CPU, RAM, VGA, and BOOT, aren't lighting up.

 

I have a feeling I magically have a dead CPU, but I want to hear other people's thoughts. 

 

Attached is a photo that I have aptly titled: "Top 10 Photos Taken Moments Before Disaster".

 

 

Specifications:

i7-7700k (Delided with LM)

Asus Strix 1080ti

Gskill RGB 3000 (was running at 3200)

Asus Maximus IX Formula

 

 

Tl;Dr: Computer won't turn on after hard freeze.

[Radium_Angel]

7 minutes ago, Rodman101 said:

But then everything went to hell.

Ok,

 

Standard troubleshooting step:

 

Reset BIOS.

Pull out all ram, unplug all USB/SATA connections.

Power up.

 

If it beeps, then it's registering a lack of RAM.

Put one stick back in, see what happens.

Post back. 

[Rodman101]

1 minute ago, Radium_Angel said:

Ok,

 

Standard troubleshooting step:

 

Reset BIOS.

Pull out all ram, unplug all USB/SATA connections.

Power up.

 

If it beeps, then it's registering a lack of RAM.

Put one stick back in, see what happens.

Post back. 

I've tried resetting Bios and it still won't boot. I unplugged most of the connections and even pulled out all the ram, but it didn't occur to me to unplug SATA and USB or try plugging in the speaker to see if it's beeping or not. I'll try those too when I get off work this afternoon.

 

Good suggestions, thanks.

[Radium_Angel]

13 minutes ago, Rodman101 said:

Good suggestions, thanks.

You are welcome, good luck!

[MrShinny]

That must really suck. I can't imagine putting together this insane loop then having this happen.

 

Do what Radium_Angel said, and tell us what happened. Really want to get this fixed for you.

[Rodman101]

9 hours ago, Radium_Angel said:

Ok,

 

Standard troubleshooting step:

 

Reset BIOS.

Pull out all ram, unplug all USB/SATA connections.

Power up.

 

If it beeps, then it's registering a lack of RAM.

Put one stick back in, see what happens.

Post back. 

 

9 hours ago, MrShinny said:

That must really suck. I can't imagine putting together this insane loop then having this happen.

 

Do what Radium_Angel said, and tell us what happened. Really want to get this fixed for you.

Updates:

 

Unplugged ALL devices and connections including M.2. Only things that are connected are 24-pin, 8-pin (I even used a different PSU and different cables to see if that helped), and CPU-fan. If I try to boot, it instantly shows the 00 Post code, with no beeps or diagnostic LEDs showing. I even went so far as to remove the RTC battery for a bit to see if it would help.

 

Thoughts:

 

The hard freeze I experienced was something like when you're pushing an intense overclock and the system completely locks and makes a continuous noise through the speakers. Interesting that it would happen considering I'd been running the same overclock on the CPU/GPU for months.

 

Asus Aura lights on the motherboard pulsate as usual both in off states and when booting; also, VRM is warming up so I don't think the motherboard is dead. Although, no beeps or diagnostic LEDs is concerning.

 

This motherboard has a built-in VRM waterblock. Though I haven't seen any water damage on any component, maybe something shorted. 

 

I ordered a new CPU that will be here tomorrow so hopefully that solves the issue. 

 

Edited July 17, 2018 by Rodman101
Additional brain-dump

[MrShinny]

15 hours ago, Rodman101 said:

The hard freeze I experienced was something like when you're pushing an intense overclock and the system completely locks and makes a continuous noise through the speakers. Interesting that it would happen considering I'd been running the same overclock on the CPU/GPU for months.

After a while, a CPU and/or GPU loses the ability to hold the same overclock at the same voltage. Especially if it's a higher one. Did you remove the CMOS battery? That should wipe the OC for the CPU and reset the RAM as well.

15 hours ago, Rodman101 said:

This motherboard has a built-in VRM waterblock. Though I haven't seen any water damage on any component, maybe something shorted. 

Remove the waterblock to see if there is any water damage around it, assuming that you used it in your loop. Make sure to drain it completely first. (take out mobo and shake it around w/ fittings off)

15 hours ago, Rodman101 said:

If I try to boot, it instantly shows the 00 Post code, with no beeps or diagnostic LEDs showing.

What motherboard do you have? So we can see what this post code means, as different manufacturers have different codes.

15 hours ago, Rodman101 said:

I ordered a new CPU that will be here tomorrow so hopefully that solves the issue. 

It is most likely the CPU/CPU area on the motherboard. Check to see if any pins are bent on the motherboard. (Or if you have AMD on the CPU)

 

It is most likely the CPU or motherboard. I would have said try the CPU in a different board, but since you got a new one..

 

One thing I am worried about is the CPU get burned by bad VRMs which could have happened to the last one.

[Rodman101]

14 minutes ago, MrShinny said:

After a while, a CPU and/or GPU loses the ability to hold the same overclock at the same voltage. Especially if it's a higher one. Did you remove the CMOS battery? That should wipe the OC for the CPU and reset the RAM as well.

Remove the waterblock to see if there is any water damage around it, assuming that you used it in your loop. Make sure to drain it completely first. (take out mobo and shake it around w/ fittings off)

What motherboard do you have? So we can see what this post code means, as different manufacturers have different codes.

It is most likely the CPU/CPU area on the motherboard. Check to see if any pins are bent on the motherboard. (Or if you have AMD on the CPU)

 

It is most likely the CPU or motherboard. I would have said try the CPU in a different board, but since you got a new one..

 

One thing I am worried about is the CPU get burned by bad VRMs which could have happened to the last one.

I removed the CMOS battery, cleared CMOS with the button on the I/O, and even used the BIOS Flashback tool to overwrite the BIOS to a defaulted state.

 

The motherboard I have is the Asus ROG Maximus IX Formula : https://www.asus.com/us/Motherboards/ROG-MAXIMUS-IX-FORMULA/

The post code is "unused" according to the manual.

 

I looked for damage around the VRMs and the block but didn't see any.

 

I'm more inclined to think that the liquid metal application on the CPU was too heavy and shorted it out rather than the VRM failing because of the way the computer froze. If the VRM had shorted or something I figured it would have instantly shut off the system.

[MrShinny]

51 minutes ago, Rodman101 said:

I looked for damage around the VRMs and the block but didn't see any.

 

I'm more inclined to think that the liquid metal application on the CPU was too heavy and shorted it out rather than the VRM failing because of the way the computer froze. If the VRM had shorted or something I figured it would have instantly shut off the system.

Not necessarily, depends on how they were damaged. How much liquid metal did you use? Did you you like a paint brush and only use a very small drop? If not then that would be your problem right there.

 

Did you see any liquid metal anywhere but on the heatsink of the CPU?

[Rodman101]

3 minutes ago, MrShinny said:

Not necessarily, depends on how they were damaged. How much liquid metal did you use? Did you you like a paint brush and only use a very small drop? If not then that would be your problem right there.

 

Did you see any liquid metal anywhere but on the heatsink of the CPU?

I'll take apart the motherboard to check the VRM Block for leaks when I get home before I install the new CPU. 

 

As for the liquid metal application, I know it was too much; It was actually difficult to remove the IHS because the liquid metal was creating a suction effect with the surface tension. It was pretty noticeably pooled and I have a feeling it leaked out on the side of the die but once I puled the IHS off, it collected back ontop of the die.

[MrShinny]

3 minutes ago, Rodman101 said:

I'll take apart the motherboard to check the VRM Block for leaks when I get home before I install the new CPU. 

 

As for the liquid metal application, I know it was too much; It was actually difficult to remove the IHS because the liquid metal was creating a suction effect with the surface tension. It was pretty noticeably pooled and I have a feeling it leaked out on the side of the die but once I puled the IHS off, it collected back ontop of the die.

Yikes. That could be your problem right there. I would just wait for the new CPU. It's hard to tell if it's the motherboard though, but I'm guessing not because no signs point towards it except OC which is common so that shouldn't be a problem.

 

If you are gonna delid your next CPU, which I still recommend you do because you already have all the gear. Don't let this scare you away, you learned your lesson.

 

Now we wait.

 

[Rodman101]

8 minutes ago, MrShinny said:

Yikes. That could be your problem right there. I would just wait for the new CPU. It's hard to tell if it's the motherboard though, but I'm guessing not because no signs point towards it except OC which is common so that shouldn't be a problem.

 

If you are gonna delid your next CPU, which I still recommend you do because you already have all the gear. Don't let this scare you away, you learned your lesson.

 

Now we wait.

 

I figured that all the movement from the watercooling, filling, and draining the loop caused the liquid metal to finally spill over. I'm definitely delidding the next one. I'm for sure going to follow the mantra of "less is more" when it comes to the liquid metal application.

[MrShinny]

6 minutes ago, Rodman101 said:

I figured that all the movement from the watercooling, filling, and draining the loop caused the liquid metal to finally spill over. I'm definitely delidding the next one. I'm for sure going to follow the mantra of "less is more" when it comes to the liquid metal application.

Yeah you really don't need any at all for the application. Just a small film.

 

Just look up a vid or pic to see how much they put on so you can compare.

[Rodman101]

6 hours ago, MrShinny said:

Yeah you really don't need any at all for the application. Just a small film.

 

Just look up a vid or pic to see how much they put on so you can compare.

NEW CPU FIXED IT

Already de-lidded and I'm starting to reassemble the loop.

 

Thanks for your help.

[MrShinny]

14 hours ago, Rodman101 said:

NEW CPU FIXED IT

Already de-lidded and I'm starting to reassemble the loop.

 

Thanks for your help.

Alrighty! Good luck!