Jump to content

h115i issues, go custom?

Go to solution Solved by mrmonmon2,

FOR FUCKS SAKE, I THINK IT WAS A BUBBLE

 

67 C UNDER XTU STRESS TEST, WATER TEMPS NOT CLIMBING LIKE A ROCKETMGVJLE AGSHBU EZRHI BIJHZE RJOGBV EW

 

 

 

water temps actually taking time to go above 30c

 

yup ffs rad mounted now so highest point is not the tube end(was issue with  tube length and mountable spot)

99% sure its failing, Rad is cold, water temps at 44c rn and only one hose is hot to the touch, RIP me
Can anyone recommend the best bang for my buck to do a custom loop, I also wonder would it be viable to splurge on a good ek block and pump and use 5-10 gallons of water as a secondary reservoir with fans instead of a rad(till I can reasonably afford a good rad?)

 

 

IDLE on start water temp 23 c, cpu at 40-50c
gain about 0.1c every few seconds untill about 35-40c water temp

 

Gaming water temps at 40 minimum, cpu at 70-85c 

 

rad cold in both cases

under load/gaming on tube is burning hot

 

I have a hybrid gpu atm so looking only for cpu loop, next gpu will be a hydro copper in probably a few years

 

considering going with pump and water block and a bucket of water with aquarium pump as suggested to make a fountain temporarily rather than a full setup right off the bat

 

bought this second hand for 80$ but asking corsair what I can do, inb4 nothing 

 

 

 

 

Link to comment
Share on other sites

Link to post
Share on other sites

5 minutes ago, mrmonmon2 said:

99% sure its failing, Rad is cold, water temps at 44c rn and only one hose is hot to the touch, RIP me
Can anyone recommend the best bang for my buck to do a custom loop, I also wonder would it be viable to splurge on a good ek block and pump and use 5-10 gallons of water as a secondary reservoir with fans instead of a rad(till I can reasonably afford a good rad?)

Check your pump to see if it's running and ensure that it's being provided the full 12V. As for custom loop if you want a proper copper based look your looking at around $500 USD for both a CPU and GPU, EKWB does have their fluid gaming lineup which is a bit more affordable at around $350USD. 

 

Most loops will only use around 2L of fluid, I would suggest looking at the kits if your just starting out. 

Link to comment
Share on other sites

Link to post
Share on other sites

A few comments

 

First a custom loop is always a bad investment for bang for the buck, you will always find performance improvements elsewhere.  It's mainly for appearance and silence with the ability to cool a gpu as well.

 

Second A large reservoir will eventually heat soak, many years ago I experienced this by trying to put a res in a mini-fridge instead of using a radiator, the fridge couldn't keep up and quickly got heat soak and turned into a sauna.  I did a couple other things as well as I didn't have a radiator, one of those being a storage tote full of water with a popcan rigged in the middle with holes in it to use evaporation to cool, this worked rather well but was jenky AF.  I also did a large 4"ish pvc tube with water spraying in the top and air blowing through it, kind of a bong setup.  Honestly I can't remember if I ever got the PVC setup fully functional.

 

Third if you still want an affordable custom loop I would look into EK's aluminum kit, there is nothing wrong with it so long as you don't mix pieces from outside the kit as you'll get galvanic corrosion.

 

I would seriously look at another AIO, I've done a handful of custom loops and my next machine is either going to be from Singularity Computers or AIO, nothing inbetween.

 

edit: if going forward with a custom loop........ the hardest lesson I learned is that the majority of gpu's are non-reference boards meaning they are proprietary lay outs.  Some of the main non-reference like strix have custom blocks made for them but unless a gpu has a specific block for it or is reference you simply can not cool it in your loop.  I have 3 gpu blocks that are worth no more than the copper they're made out of from learning this fact.

Open-Back - Sennheiser 6xx - Focal Elex - Phillips Fidelio X3 - Harmonicdyne Zeus -  Beyerdynamic DT1990 - *HiFi-man HE400i (2017) - *Phillips shp9500 - *SoundMAGIC HP200

Semi-Open - Beyerdynamic DT880-600 - Fostex T50RP - *AKG K240 studio

Closed-Back - Rode NTH-100 - Meze 99 Neo - AKG K361-BT - Blue Microphones Lola - *Beyerdynamic DT770-80 - *Meze 99 Noir - *Blon BL-B60 *Hifiman R7dx

On-Ear - Koss KPH30iCL Grado - Koss KPH30iCL Yaxi - Koss KPH40 Yaxi

IEM - Tin HiFi T2 - MoonDrop Quarks - Tangzu Wan'er S.G - Moondrop Chu - QKZ x HBB - 7HZ Salnotes Zero

Headset Turtle Beach Stealth 700 V2 + xbox adapter - *Sennheiser Game One - *Razer Kraken Pro V2

DAC S.M.S.L SU-9

Class-D dac/amp Topping DX7 - Schiit Fulla E - Fosi Q4 - *Sybasonic SD-DAC63116

Class-D amp Topping A70

Class-A amp Emotiva A-100 - Xduoo MT-602 (hybrid tube)

Pure Tube amp Darkvoice 336SE - Little dot MKII - Nobsound Little Bear P7

Audio Interface Rode AI-1

Portable Amp Xduoo XP2-pro - *Truthear SHIO - *Fiio BTR3K BTR3Kpro 

Mic Rode NT1 - *Antlion Mod Mic - *Neego Boom Mic - *Vmoda Boom Mic

Pads ZMF - Dekoni - Brainwavz - Shure - Yaxi - Grado - Wicked Cushions

Cables Hart Audio Cables - Periapt Audio Cables

Speakers Kef Q950 - Micca RB42 - Jamo S803 - Crown XLi1500 (power amp class A)

 

*given as gift or out of commission

Link to comment
Share on other sites

Link to post
Share on other sites

Don't cheap out on a custom loop, unless you enjoy killing PC components and buying a whole new PC.

 

First of all, find out what your CPU temps are because 44C water temps and one hose warmer than the other is normal.

Second, replace the thermal paste and try mounting the cooler again if the CPU is still overheating.

Third check that the pump is running, making sound and showing the right rpm.

NEW PC build: Blank Heaven   minimalist white and black PC     Old S340 build log "White Heaven"        The "LIGHTCANON" flashlight build log        Project AntiRoll (prototype)        Custom speaker project

Spoiler

Ryzen 3950X | AMD Vega Frontier Edition | ASUS X570 Pro WS | Corsair Vengeance LPX 64GB | NZXT H500 | Seasonic Prime Fanless TX-700 | Custom loop | Coolermaster SK630 White | Logitech MX Master 2S | Samsung 980 Pro 1TB + 970 Pro 512GB | Samsung 58" 4k TV | Scarlett 2i4 | 2x AT2020

 

Link to comment
Share on other sites

Link to post
Share on other sites

12 minutes ago, W-L said:

Check your pump to see if it's running and ensure that it's being provided the full 12V. As for custom loop if you want a proper copper based look your looking at around $500 USD for both a CPU and GPU, EKWB does have their fluid gaming lineup which is a bit more affordable at around $350USD. 

 

Most loops will only use around 2L of fluid, I would suggest looking at the kits if your just starting out. 

Pump is making noise, 1080 TI hybrid so CPU Only

10 minutes ago, Psittac said:

A few comments

 

First a custom loop is always a bad investment for bang for the buck, you will always find performance improvements elsewhere.  It's mainly for appearance and silence with the ability to cool a gpu as well.

 

Second A large reservoir will eventually heat soak, many years ago I experienced this by trying to put a res in a mini-fridge instead of using a radiator, the fridge couldn't keep up and quickly got heat soak and turned into a sauna.  I did a couple other things as well as I didn't have a radiator, one of those being a storage tote full of water with a popcan rigged in the middle with holes in it to use evaporation to cool, this worked rather well but was jenky AF.  I also did a large 4"ish pvc tube with water spraying in the top and air blowing through it, kind of a bong setup.  Honestly I can't remember if I ever got the PVC setup fully functional.

 

Third if you still want an affordable custom loop I would look into EK's aluminum kit, there is nothing wrong with it so long as you don't mix pieces from outside the kit as you'll get galvanic corrosion.

 

I would seriously look at another AIO, I've done a handful of custom loops and my next machine is either going to be from Singularity Computers or AIO, nothing inbetween.

 

edit: if going forward with a custom loop........ the hardest lesson I learned is that the majority of gpu's are non-reference boards meaning they are proprietary lay outs.  Some of the main non-reference like strix have custom blocks made for them but unless a gpu has a specific block for it or is reference you simply can not cool it in your loop.  I have 3 gpu blocks that are worth no more than the copper they're made out of from learning this fact.

Silence is essential and why Id like to go custom, As for the large reservoir setup it'd be like 1-2 months temporary at most.
Ek isnt exactly the best option for price As i'm Canadian 
gpu wont be custom till I buy my next one, and will probably go with an evga hydrocopper

9 minutes ago, Enderman said:

Don't cheap out on a custom loop, unless you enjoy killing PC components and buying a whole new PC.

 

First of all, find out what your CPU temps are because 44C water temps and one hose warmer than the other is normal.

Second, replace the thermal paste and try mounting the cooler again if the CPU is still overheating.

Third check that the pump is running, making sound and showing the right rpm.

23c water temps and 50c idle when start, like one hose is burning and the other is cold. 
70-85 playing pubg

Replaced thermal past several times and yes pump is making noise and running

 

I intend to not cheap out but buy cheaper (BUT STILL GOOD) components or go with a large reservoir temporarily before getting a rad

 

 

Link to comment
Share on other sites

Link to post
Share on other sites

3 minutes ago, mrmonmon2 said:

Pump is making noise, 1080 TI hybrid so CPU Only

Silence is essential and why Id like to go custom, As for the large reservoir setup it'd be like 1-2 months temporary at most.
Ek isnt exactly the best option for price As i'm Canadian 
gpu wont be custom till I buy my next one, and will probably go with an evga hydrocopper

23c water temps and 50c idle when start, like one hose is burning and the other is cold. 
70-85 playing pubg

Replaced thermal past several times and yes pump is making noise and running

 

I intend to not cheap out but buy cheaper (BUT STILL GOOD) components or go with a large reservoir temporarily before getting a rad

If you want to step up to custom watercooling this is what I would recommend to start with the P series kits are an excellent base to start a loop on and will have enough cooling capability for an EVGA hydrocoper GPU. 

https://www.ekwb.com/shop/ek-kit-p360

 

If you plan to get a reference 1080ti or one compatible with the Fluid gaming kits that can save you a marginal amount but any custom loop is going to be a fair bit of money. You cannot use the fluid gaming kits with any copper based parts, they must all be aluminium. 

Link to comment
Share on other sites

Link to post
Share on other sites

2 minutes ago, mrmonmon2 said:

As for the large reservoir setup it'd be like 1-2 months temporary at most.

well if you are stuck on this path, I'd suggest getting a small aquarium pump and making a sort of water fountain to increase cooling potential.  The evaporation will dump heat you just need to top it off.  Also when I did the pop can thing, I had a very large and very powerful external aquarium pump, Think something in this category.  So I'm not sure what a d5 or ddc would do with an external large reservoir.  You need to research the effects of head pressure

Open-Back - Sennheiser 6xx - Focal Elex - Phillips Fidelio X3 - Harmonicdyne Zeus -  Beyerdynamic DT1990 - *HiFi-man HE400i (2017) - *Phillips shp9500 - *SoundMAGIC HP200

Semi-Open - Beyerdynamic DT880-600 - Fostex T50RP - *AKG K240 studio

Closed-Back - Rode NTH-100 - Meze 99 Neo - AKG K361-BT - Blue Microphones Lola - *Beyerdynamic DT770-80 - *Meze 99 Noir - *Blon BL-B60 *Hifiman R7dx

On-Ear - Koss KPH30iCL Grado - Koss KPH30iCL Yaxi - Koss KPH40 Yaxi

IEM - Tin HiFi T2 - MoonDrop Quarks - Tangzu Wan'er S.G - Moondrop Chu - QKZ x HBB - 7HZ Salnotes Zero

Headset Turtle Beach Stealth 700 V2 + xbox adapter - *Sennheiser Game One - *Razer Kraken Pro V2

DAC S.M.S.L SU-9

Class-D dac/amp Topping DX7 - Schiit Fulla E - Fosi Q4 - *Sybasonic SD-DAC63116

Class-D amp Topping A70

Class-A amp Emotiva A-100 - Xduoo MT-602 (hybrid tube)

Pure Tube amp Darkvoice 336SE - Little dot MKII - Nobsound Little Bear P7

Audio Interface Rode AI-1

Portable Amp Xduoo XP2-pro - *Truthear SHIO - *Fiio BTR3K BTR3Kpro 

Mic Rode NT1 - *Antlion Mod Mic - *Neego Boom Mic - *Vmoda Boom Mic

Pads ZMF - Dekoni - Brainwavz - Shure - Yaxi - Grado - Wicked Cushions

Cables Hart Audio Cables - Periapt Audio Cables

Speakers Kef Q950 - Micca RB42 - Jamo S803 - Crown XLi1500 (power amp class A)

 

*given as gift or out of commission

Link to comment
Share on other sites

Link to post
Share on other sites

3 minutes ago, mrmonmon2 said:

23c water temps and 50c idle when start, like one hose is burning and the other is cold. 
70-85 playing pubg

Replaced thermal past several times and yes pump is making noise and running

 

I intend to not cheap out but buy cheaper (BUT STILL GOOD) components or go with a large reservoir temporarily before getting a rad

If your water temp is actually 23C then the hose would not be "burning"

RMA your cooler to corsair or figure our what exactly is wrong with it.

 

If you want to go with custom watercooling then you should have at least $500 to start.

Otherwise just buy another AIO or air cooler.

NEW PC build: Blank Heaven   minimalist white and black PC     Old S340 build log "White Heaven"        The "LIGHTCANON" flashlight build log        Project AntiRoll (prototype)        Custom speaker project

Spoiler

Ryzen 3950X | AMD Vega Frontier Edition | ASUS X570 Pro WS | Corsair Vengeance LPX 64GB | NZXT H500 | Seasonic Prime Fanless TX-700 | Custom loop | Coolermaster SK630 White | Logitech MX Master 2S | Samsung 980 Pro 1TB + 970 Pro 512GB | Samsung 58" 4k TV | Scarlett 2i4 | 2x AT2020

 

Link to comment
Share on other sites

Link to post
Share on other sites

11 minutes ago, W-L said:

If you want to step up to custom watercooling this is what I would recommend to start with the P series kits are an excellent base to start a loop on and will have enough cooling capability for an EVGA hydrocoper GPU. 

https://www.ekwb.com/shop/ek-kit-p360

 

If you plan to get a reference 1080ti or one compatible with the Fluid gaming kits that can save you a marginal amount but any custom loop is going to be a fair bit of money. You cannot use the fluid gaming kits with any copper based parts, they must all be aluminium. 

Have 1080ti already but thank you for the suggestion

11 minutes ago, Psittac said:

well if you are stuck on this path, I'd suggest getting a small aquarium pump and making a sort of water fountain to increase cooling potential.  The evaporation will dump heat you just need to top it off.  Also when I did the pop can thing, I had a very large and very powerful external aquarium pump, Think something in this category.  So I'm not sure what a d5 or ddc would do with an external large reservoir.  You need to research the effects of head pressure

hmmm not yet but thoroughly considering, I do have aquarium parts at home so probably have a spare pump, imo Id just be hoping the pump could handle sucking from the bottom of a bucket and duping back into it on the top, I do have plenty of spare fans so i could actively cool said bucket for the time being

11 minutes ago, Enderman said:

If your water temp is actually 23C then the hose would not be "burning"

RMA your cooler to corsair or figure our what exactly is wrong with it.

 

If you want to go with custom watercooling then you should have at least $500 to start.

Otherwise just buy another AIO or air cooler.

cpu only custom, also updated OP post to include your questions my head is a tad over the place, but Ive actually been running like this for 2-3 months but I thought it was a OC issue causing the occasional BSOD

 

 

Link to comment
Share on other sites

Link to post
Share on other sites

4 minutes ago, mrmonmon2 said:

cpu only custom, also updated OP post to include your questions my head is a tad over the place, but Ive actually been running like this for 2-3 months but I thought it was a OC issue causing the occasional BSOD

$500 is for a CPU only loop. Adding a GPU would be at least $100 more.

An overheating CPU would not cause a BSOD so clearly you have other issues with your system.

 

If a CPU gets hot it will throttle itself to a lower frequency.

If it still gets too hot the PC will shut off immediately with no BSOD.

NEW PC build: Blank Heaven   minimalist white and black PC     Old S340 build log "White Heaven"        The "LIGHTCANON" flashlight build log        Project AntiRoll (prototype)        Custom speaker project

Spoiler

Ryzen 3950X | AMD Vega Frontier Edition | ASUS X570 Pro WS | Corsair Vengeance LPX 64GB | NZXT H500 | Seasonic Prime Fanless TX-700 | Custom loop | Coolermaster SK630 White | Logitech MX Master 2S | Samsung 980 Pro 1TB + 970 Pro 512GB | Samsung 58" 4k TV | Scarlett 2i4 | 2x AT2020

 

Link to comment
Share on other sites

Link to post
Share on other sites

4 minutes ago, Enderman said:

$500 is for a CPU only loop. Adding a GPU would be at least $100 more.

An overheating CPU would not cause a BSOD so clearly you have other issues with your system.

 

If a CPU gets hot it will throttle itself to a lower frequency.

If it still gets too hot the PC will shut off immediately with no BSOD.

Bsods during pubg and pretty sure that's partially a reason for those

But it's still too hot

And I'm sure it can be done cheaper and jankier

Edited by mrmonmon2

 

 

Link to comment
Share on other sites

Link to post
Share on other sites

About the 115, check:

 

thermal paste

backplate, if it's loose, tighten it using rubber washers between the mobo and the plate

if you still have problems, remove the copper plate from the block by removing the 8 screws, do it holding the plate facing up to prevent a leak, once opened use a cotton swab to remove any grease, dust or weird thing you see (my 110 had some weird mucus like thing inside, I don't know what it was) once you do that put the copper plate back and tighten the screws, you could also lap the plate to improve contact

ASUS X470-PRO • R7 1700 4GHz • Corsair H110i GT P/P • 2x MSI RX 480 8G • Corsair DP 2x8 @3466 • EVGA 750 G2 • Corsair 730T • Crucial MX500 250GB • WD 4TB

Link to comment
Share on other sites

Link to post
Share on other sites

5 minutes ago, mrmonmon2 said:

Bsods during pubg and pretty sure that's partially a reason for those

But it's still too hot

And I'm sure it can be done cheaper and jankier

It shouldn't be too hot unless you mounted it incorrectly or it is defective.

If you want to risk killing your PC and potentially losing all your data too then that's up to you, go ahead and cheap out on your loop.

In the long run you will waste more money replacing dead PC parts than having bought a good quality loop in the first place.

NEW PC build: Blank Heaven   minimalist white and black PC     Old S340 build log "White Heaven"        The "LIGHTCANON" flashlight build log        Project AntiRoll (prototype)        Custom speaker project

Spoiler

Ryzen 3950X | AMD Vega Frontier Edition | ASUS X570 Pro WS | Corsair Vengeance LPX 64GB | NZXT H500 | Seasonic Prime Fanless TX-700 | Custom loop | Coolermaster SK630 White | Logitech MX Master 2S | Samsung 980 Pro 1TB + 970 Pro 512GB | Samsung 58" 4k TV | Scarlett 2i4 | 2x AT2020

 

Link to comment
Share on other sites

Link to post
Share on other sites

21 minutes ago, aezakmi said:

About the 115, check:

 

thermal paste

backplate, if it's loose, tighten it using rubber washers between the mobo and the plate

if you still have problems, remove the copper plate from the block by removing the 8 screws, do it holding the plate facing up to prevent a leak, once opened use a cotton swab to remove any grease, dust or weird thing you see (my 110 had some weird mucus like thing inside, I don't know what it was) once you do that put the copper plate back and tighten the screws, you could also lap the plate to improve contact

Thanks I'll try that tomorrow morning! 

20 minutes ago, Enderman said:

It shouldn't be too hot unless you mounted it incorrectly or it is defective.

If you want to risk killing your PC and potentially losing all your data too then that's up to you, go ahead and cheap out on your loop.

In the long run you will waste more money replacing dead PC parts than having bought a good quality loop in the first place.

Thank you for your advice, but as I've stated my intention is not to buy low quality parts but to possibly avoid expensive parts such as ek blocks if I were to go the full loop at once 

 

 

Link to comment
Share on other sites

Link to post
Share on other sites

4 minutes ago, mrmonmon2 said:

Thank you for your advice, but as I've stated my intention is not to buy low quality parts but to possibly avoid expensive parts such as ek blocks if I were to go the full loop at once 

Uh, the "not buying low quality" part means buying an EK CPU block, bitspower fittings, and other parts which are not cheap.

If you want to avoid the good reliable parts then that means you're cheaping out and should not be making a custom loop.

NEW PC build: Blank Heaven   minimalist white and black PC     Old S340 build log "White Heaven"        The "LIGHTCANON" flashlight build log        Project AntiRoll (prototype)        Custom speaker project

Spoiler

Ryzen 3950X | AMD Vega Frontier Edition | ASUS X570 Pro WS | Corsair Vengeance LPX 64GB | NZXT H500 | Seasonic Prime Fanless TX-700 | Custom loop | Coolermaster SK630 White | Logitech MX Master 2S | Samsung 980 Pro 1TB + 970 Pro 512GB | Samsung 58" 4k TV | Scarlett 2i4 | 2x AT2020

 

Link to comment
Share on other sites

Link to post
Share on other sites

1 minute ago, Enderman said:

Uh, the "not buying low quality" part means buying an EK CPU block, bitspower fittings, and other parts which are not cheap.

If you want to avoid the good reliable parts then that means you're cheaping out and should not be making a custom loop.

I'm willing to buy ek but I'm wondering if there are any other hQ alternatives as being Canadian prices are insane and considering the possibility of paying duty aswell

 

 

Link to comment
Share on other sites

Link to post
Share on other sites

2 minutes ago, mrmonmon2 said:

I'm willing to buy ek but I'm wondering if there are any other hQ alternatives as being Canadian prices are insane and considering the possibility of paying duty aswell

That's why I said $500  minimum, that's 300-400 USD.

You also need to buy fittings, tubing, fluid, and all those small things add up.

 

NEW PC build: Blank Heaven   minimalist white and black PC     Old S340 build log "White Heaven"        The "LIGHTCANON" flashlight build log        Project AntiRoll (prototype)        Custom speaker project

Spoiler

Ryzen 3950X | AMD Vega Frontier Edition | ASUS X570 Pro WS | Corsair Vengeance LPX 64GB | NZXT H500 | Seasonic Prime Fanless TX-700 | Custom loop | Coolermaster SK630 White | Logitech MX Master 2S | Samsung 980 Pro 1TB + 970 Pro 512GB | Samsung 58" 4k TV | Scarlett 2i4 | 2x AT2020

 

Link to comment
Share on other sites

Link to post
Share on other sites

2 hours ago, Enderman said:

That's why I said $500  minimum, that's 300-400 USD.

You also need to buy fittings, tubing, fluid, and all those small things add up.

 

Yes I am aware, but are there no other high quality alternative to EK?

 

 

Link to comment
Share on other sites

Link to post
Share on other sites

15 minutes ago, mrmonmon2 said:

Yes I am aware, but are there no other high quality alternative to EK?

None which have been sold anywhere near as much to know their reliability.

Companies like bitspower or alphacool also make good stuff but they sell far less CPU blocks so you can't really judge the reliability by the low numbers.

NEW PC build: Blank Heaven   minimalist white and black PC     Old S340 build log "White Heaven"        The "LIGHTCANON" flashlight build log        Project AntiRoll (prototype)        Custom speaker project

Spoiler

Ryzen 3950X | AMD Vega Frontier Edition | ASUS X570 Pro WS | Corsair Vengeance LPX 64GB | NZXT H500 | Seasonic Prime Fanless TX-700 | Custom loop | Coolermaster SK630 White | Logitech MX Master 2S | Samsung 980 Pro 1TB + 970 Pro 512GB | Samsung 58" 4k TV | Scarlett 2i4 | 2x AT2020

 

Link to comment
Share on other sites

Link to post
Share on other sites

1 hour ago, Enderman said:

None which have been sold anywhere near as much to know their reliability.

Companies like bitspower or alphacool also make good stuff but they sell far less CPU blocks so you can't really judge the reliability by the low numbers.

Alright thank you for that, I'll research others more if i chose that route, for now a friend suggested i  reorient it as it may be a bubble

 

 

Link to comment
Share on other sites

Link to post
Share on other sites

FOR FUCKS SAKE, I THINK IT WAS A BUBBLE

 

67 C UNDER XTU STRESS TEST, WATER TEMPS NOT CLIMBING LIKE A ROCKETMGVJLE AGSHBU EZRHI BIJHZE RJOGBV EW

 

 

 

water temps actually taking time to go above 30c

 

yup ffs rad mounted now so highest point is not the tube end(was issue with  tube length and mountable spot)

 

 

Link to comment
Share on other sites

Link to post
Share on other sites

welp that was overkill, took too long to figure that out

 

 

 

Link to comment
Share on other sites

Link to post
Share on other sites

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now

×