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I believe it is something to do with the OS. I read that it could be an USB controller on the MB that is dead, no ports anywhere was working even with different USB hardware.

I moved the drive over to a different computer and booted up there. Same thing there as well. I get to the windows login screen without any issues, but it simply won't register any clicks.

The keyboard is working fine during bootup for UEFI and whatnot, but when Windows loads in, the lights go out from the mouse/keyboard and it doesn't respond.

 

I have tried looking in UEFI for SecureBoot, but it doesn't seem to have the option. I can't log in to Windows to change it, obviously, nor can I hold shift while clicking restart/shutdown in the start screen.

 

Any ideas?

 

UPDATE #1:

I read somewhere that two consecutive unexpected shutdowns within 2 minutes will trigger the Windows RE, which was one goal as I wanted to try Safemode from there. It worked and I got it to boot in to Safety Mode, but I still don't get to use anything USB after then getting to the login screen.

 

UPDATE #2:

Tested external hardware, USB extender plugged in PCIe, didn't work.

Tested PS/2 converter for mouse, but doesn't register anything.

Clear CMOS by unplugging for a while, even took out on-board battery. Let it stay, pressed power on a few times and re-plugged. Nothing.

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While I don't have a solution for you, I highly doubt that a USB controller on your Motherboard is dead, otherwise your ports wouldn't work in ANY OS, or ANY bios or uefi. Also, when you said you'd searched all over your uefi for SecureBoot, have you looked in your Windows 8 setting option tab for secure boot. In my motherboard, SecureBoot only appears if windows 8 option is on

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7 minutes ago, GE23 - ITR said:

While I don't have a solution for you, I highly doubt that a USB controller on your Motherboard is dead, otherwise your ports wouldn't work in ANY OS, or ANY bios or uefi. Also, when you said you'd searched all over your uefi for SecureBoot, have you looked in your Windows 8 setting option tab for secure boot. In my motherboard, SecureBoot only appears if windows 8 option is on

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I know the USB controller isn't dead, because as you said then I wouldn't even be able to use it in UEFI (which I can).

I got it to boot in secure mode through causing the two sudden shutdowns, however the problem still persists.

 

We have some important stuff on there, through a program which is bound by the OS or Hardware. We need to run the program on that drive to extract stuff. The ones who designed this program are assholes that had little intention of letting you migrate any data, let alone use anything else, anywhere. I'd also make a backup, if I were around at the time this was used, but alas nothing can be done about that now.

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Sounds like pretty much that Windows installation is either corrupt or broken by some patch or driver conflict etc.

 

18 minutes ago, VirtusGraphics said:

We have some important stuff on there, through a program which is bound by the OS or Hardware. We need to run the program on that drive to extract stuff. The ones who designed this program are assholes that had little intention of letting you migrate any data, let alone use anything else, anywhere. I'd also make a backup, if I were around at the time this was used, but alas nothing can be done about that now.

Can't that program be run from that disk from other installation of Windows?

Some Windows repair/file check from installation media could be tried, but that Windows installation(/partition) might be needing complete nuking.

 

Which is why important data should be always kept separate from OS partition.

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6 minutes ago, EsaT said:

Sounds like pretty much that Windows installation is either corrupt or broken by some patch or driver conflict etc.

 

Can't that program be run from that disk from other installation of Windows?

Some Windows repair/file check from installation media could be tried, but that Windows installation(/partition) might be needing complete nuking.

 

Which is why important data should be always kept separate from OS partition.

Yeah, a bitch to figure out. The Mb is somewhat old and has PS/2 ports, but we have no such keyboards or mice.

I found however a PS/2 to USB converter for the mouse, but that didn't work. I tried the most basic mouse I could find, and the laser light comes on when I plug it in either through PS/2 converter or USB, but it does not register any actions.

 

I think the company shut down and a download is unavailable. Any suggestions on doing a repair from media?

 

I know, shame I wasn't around at the time. I think they exported the data, but that disc is either broken too or unknown, as well as not up to date if anything.

5 minutes ago, Ginger_ said:

If you can't reinstall windows because of data you could remote connect if you have that setup, or buy a cheap pcie USB controller and try that

It uses Win 10 Home with no option for remote control enabled. After I came I had all new PC's get Win 10 Pro and setting up remote control is one of the first things I do.

I also found some hardware that added thunderbolt and USB3.0 port. Put that in the PCIe slot and attempted to use the USB from there, but same thing. :(

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6 minutes ago, VirtusGraphics said:

It uses Win 10 Home with no option for remote control enabled. After I came I had all new PC's get Win 10 Pro and setting up remote control is one of the first things I do.

I also found some hardware that added thunderbolt and USB3.0 port. Put that in the PCIe slot and attempted to use the USB from there, but same thing. :(

That puts you in a tough spot. I would try with a windows recovery boot, or worst case, a Linux live USB to pull as much data as possible off before reinstalling windows

Fanboys are the worst thing to happen to the tech community World. Chief among them are Apple fanboys. 

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What mobo? What OS (Win10)? Was it new install or was working previously?

 

The USB-PS2 adapters only work as a mechanical adapter. If the mouse or keyboard doesn't support PS2 use, it wont work.

Gaming system: R7 7800X3D, Asus ROG Strix B650E-F Gaming Wifi, Thermalright Phantom Spirit 120 SE ARGB, Corsair Vengeance 2x 32GB 6000C30, MSI Ventus 3x OC RTX 5070 Ti, MSI MPG A850G, Fractal Design North, Samsung 990 Pro 2TB, Alienware AW3225QF (32" 240 Hz OLED)
Productivity system: i9-7980XE, Asus X299 TUF mark 2, Noctua D15, 64GB ram (mixed), RTX 4070 FE, NZXT E850, GameMax Abyss, Samsung 980 Pro 2TB, iiyama ProLite XU2793QSU-B6 (27" 1440p 100 Hz)
Gaming laptop: Lenovo Legion 5, 5800H, RTX 3070, Kingston DDR4 3200C22 2x16GB 2Rx8, Kingston Fury Renegade 1TB + Crucial P1 1TB SSD, 165 Hz IPS 1080p G-Sync Compatible

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1 minute ago, porina said:

What mobo? What OS (Win10)? Was it new install or was working previously?

 

The USB-PS2 adapters only work as a mechanical adapter. If the mouse or keyboard doesn't support PS2 use, it wont work.

P7P55D-E from ASUS. Windows 10 that was working previously, I don't think we did anything at all. No updates, hardware change or installs.

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3 minutes ago, VirtusGraphics said:

P7P55D-E from ASUS. Windows 10 that was working previously, I don't think we did anything at all. No updates, hardware change or installs.

Ok, should be old enough for at least some of it to work with built in drivers. I'm wondering if the USB drivers got corrupted in some way, but know it isn't easy to fix if you can't control the system. If you can buy a cheap real PS2 keyboard and/or mouse that would let you work around it?

 

The other option might be to create a Win10 USB install drive with latest version, and use that to repair/install on top of existing. Hopefully that would retain existing files, software and settings (most of them anyway).

Gaming system: R7 7800X3D, Asus ROG Strix B650E-F Gaming Wifi, Thermalright Phantom Spirit 120 SE ARGB, Corsair Vengeance 2x 32GB 6000C30, MSI Ventus 3x OC RTX 5070 Ti, MSI MPG A850G, Fractal Design North, Samsung 990 Pro 2TB, Alienware AW3225QF (32" 240 Hz OLED)
Productivity system: i9-7980XE, Asus X299 TUF mark 2, Noctua D15, 64GB ram (mixed), RTX 4070 FE, NZXT E850, GameMax Abyss, Samsung 980 Pro 2TB, iiyama ProLite XU2793QSU-B6 (27" 1440p 100 Hz)
Gaming laptop: Lenovo Legion 5, 5800H, RTX 3070, Kingston DDR4 3200C22 2x16GB 2Rx8, Kingston Fury Renegade 1TB + Crucial P1 1TB SSD, 165 Hz IPS 1080p G-Sync Compatible

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4 minutes ago, porina said:

Ok, should be old enough for at least some of it to work with built in drivers. I'm wondering if the USB drivers got corrupted in some way, but know it isn't easy to fix if you can't control the system. If you can buy a cheap real PS2 keyboard and/or mouse that would let you work around it?

 

The other option might be to create a Win10 USB install drive with latest version, and use that to repair/install on top of existing. Hopefully that would retain existing files, software and settings (most of them anyway).

I don't know where I would get the keyboard/mouse. Could try Amazon/eBay, but would take a few days to get shipped here.

I will try to look in to repair using an existing install file. Thanks.

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14 minutes ago, VirtusGraphics said:

I think the company shut down and a download is unavailable. Any suggestions on doing a repair from media?

Not really sure how it works in Windows10/what options there are available.

And it might not help.

Once years ago (XP time) knew many Fujitsu-Siemens PCs crapping themselves after some time in use, likely because of some pre-installed bloatware junk.

I spent day or two in fixing one of those PCs and repair installation just didn't fix anything and only way to open that knot was formatting OS partition...

Which meant whole drive because of no partitioning and need to dig up photos etc from drive using live Linux.

 

So if having another drive available installing Windows to it and then attaching current drive as secondary to see if that apparently proprietary garbage (we call that as "poropietari" in Finnish*) program could be started from another Windows installation/session would be another shot.

(*modification of word poropeukalo whose meaning is butterfingers)

 

 

Just now, VirtusGraphics said:

P7P55D-E from ASUS. Windows 10 that was working previously, I don't think we did anything at all. No updates, hardware change or installs.

Wintoys10 might have well automatically installed some buggy patch or force updated broken drivers.

That OS is like one darn game with its quirks and patches...

So old, so current:

http://windowsreallygoodedition.com/

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