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Question about Games on The Nintendo switch

How does The nintendo switch’s E-shop work?

 

I am planning to go digital on my nintendo switch, my question is, if my nintendo switch breaks and does not work anymore,

can i get a new switch and just download them back from the eshop by using the same account?

 

Also, which should i play first? Zelda botw or Mario odyssey?

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15 minutes ago, MouthSmasher83 said:

How does The nintendo switch’s E-shop work?

 

I am planning to go digital on my nintendo switch, my question is, if my nintendo switch breaks and does not work anymore,

can i get a new switch and just download them back from the eshop by using the same account?

 

Also, which should i play first? Zelda botw or Mario odyssey?

The E-Shop should work alot like its 3DS counterpart, all you need is to sign into your Nintendo Network ID on the new switch and you should be able to get your games back free of charge by redownloading them from the E-Shop whilst signed in to your Nintendo Network ID. I'd go Zelda BOTW if I was you, my mate has a switch and he said its awesome.

There are 10 types of people in this world. Those that understand binary and those that don't.

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My secondary rig (The Oldie): 4GB DDR2 800, Intel Core 2 Duo E8400 @ 3GHz, Stock Dell Cooler, Foxconn 0RY007, AMD Radeon HD 5450, 250GB Samsung Spinpoint 7200RPM HDD, Antec HCG 400M 400W Semi Modular PSU, Windows 8.1 Pro, 80mm Cooler Master fan, Dell Inspiron 530 Case modded for better cable management. UPDATE: SPECS UPGRADED DUE TO CASEMOD, 8GB DDR2 800, AMD Phenom X4 9650, Zalman CNPS5X Performa, Biostar GF8200C M2+, AMD Radeon HD 7450 GDDR5 edition, Samsung Spinpoint 250GB 7200RPM HDD, Antec HCG 400M 400W Semi Modular PSU, Windows 8.1 Pro, 80mm Cooler Master fan, Dell Inspiron 530 Case modded for better cable management and support for non Dell boards.

 

Retired/Dead Rigs: The OG (retired) (First ever PC I used at 3 years old back in 2005) Current Specs: 2GB DDR2, Pentium M 770 @ 2.13GHz, 60GB IDE laptop HDD, ZorinOS 12 Ultimate x86. Originally 512mb DDR2, Pentium M 740 @ 1.73GHzm 60GB IDE laptop HDD and single boot XP Pro. The Craptop (dead), 2gb DDR3, Celeron n2840 @ 2.1GHz, 50GB eMMC chip, Windows 10 Pro. Nightrider (dead and cannibalized for Dominator II): Ryzen 3 1200, Gigabyte A320M HD2, 8GB DDR4, XFX Ghost Core Radeon HD 7770, 1TB Samsung Spinpoint F3 (2010), 3TB Seagate Barracuda, Corsair CX750M Green, Deepcool SMARTER, Windows 10 Home.

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1. From what I've seen on the Nintendo forums you're required to contact them to be able to deactivate your broken console, sadly.

2. I played Odyssey but BOTW is supposed to be a really good game. In terms of story BOTW isn't linear at all from what I've seen compared to Odyssey. If I had the chance I would go with BOTW.

 

SOURCE: https://en-americas-support.nintendo.com/app/social/questions/detail/qid/70470/~/i-want-revoke-my-broken-nintendo-switch

Edited by nickyteddy
Added a source for the first answer.

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20 minutes ago, nickyteddy said:

1. From what I've seen on the Nintendo forums you're required to contact them to be able to deactivate your broken console, sadly.

2. I played Odyssey but BOTW is supposed to be a really good game. In terms of story BOTW isn't linear at all from what I've seen compared to Odyssey. If I had the chance I would go with BOTW.

 

SOURCE: https://en-americas-support.nintendo.com/app/social/questions/detail/qid/70470/~/i-want-revoke-my-broken-nintendo-switch

Wow, they really screwed up there. The old 3DS E-Shop system worked much better- So long as u got ur account ur fine.

There are 10 types of people in this world. Those that understand binary and those that don't.

Current Rig (Dominator II): 8GB Corsair Vengeance LPX DDR4 3133 C15, AMD Ryzen 3 1200 at 4GHz, Coolermaster MasterLiquid Lite 120, ASRock B450M Pro4, AMD R9 280X, 120GB TCSunBow SSD, 3TB Seagate ST3000DM001-9YN166 HSD, Corsair CX750M Grey Label, Windows 10 Pro, 2x CoolerMaster MasterFan Pro 120, Thermaltake Versa H18 Tempered Glass.

 

Previous Rig (Black Magic): 8GB DDR3 1600, AMD FX6300 OC'd to 4.5GHz, Zalman CNPS5X Performa, Asus M5A78L-M PLUS /USB3, GTX 950 SC (former, it blew my PCIe lane so now on mobo graphics which is Radeon HD 3000 Series), 1TB Samsung Spinpoint F3 7200RPM HDD, 3TB Seagate ST3000DM001-9YN166 HDD (secondary), Corsair CX750M, Windows 8.1 Pro, 2x 120mm Red LED fans, Deepcool SMARTER case

 

My secondary rig (The Oldie): 4GB DDR2 800, Intel Core 2 Duo E8400 @ 3GHz, Stock Dell Cooler, Foxconn 0RY007, AMD Radeon HD 5450, 250GB Samsung Spinpoint 7200RPM HDD, Antec HCG 400M 400W Semi Modular PSU, Windows 8.1 Pro, 80mm Cooler Master fan, Dell Inspiron 530 Case modded for better cable management. UPDATE: SPECS UPGRADED DUE TO CASEMOD, 8GB DDR2 800, AMD Phenom X4 9650, Zalman CNPS5X Performa, Biostar GF8200C M2+, AMD Radeon HD 7450 GDDR5 edition, Samsung Spinpoint 250GB 7200RPM HDD, Antec HCG 400M 400W Semi Modular PSU, Windows 8.1 Pro, 80mm Cooler Master fan, Dell Inspiron 530 Case modded for better cable management and support for non Dell boards.

 

Retired/Dead Rigs: The OG (retired) (First ever PC I used at 3 years old back in 2005) Current Specs: 2GB DDR2, Pentium M 770 @ 2.13GHz, 60GB IDE laptop HDD, ZorinOS 12 Ultimate x86. Originally 512mb DDR2, Pentium M 740 @ 1.73GHzm 60GB IDE laptop HDD and single boot XP Pro. The Craptop (dead), 2gb DDR3, Celeron n2840 @ 2.1GHz, 50GB eMMC chip, Windows 10 Pro. Nightrider (dead and cannibalized for Dominator II): Ryzen 3 1200, Gigabyte A320M HD2, 8GB DDR4, XFX Ghost Core Radeon HD 7770, 1TB Samsung Spinpoint F3 (2010), 3TB Seagate Barracuda, Corsair CX750M Green, Deepcool SMARTER, Windows 10 Home.

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1 hour ago, xriqn said:

Wow, they really screwed up there. The old 3DS E-Shop system worked much better- So long as u got ur account ur fine.

I'd say they're somehow trying to stop piracy by LITERALLY locking the account down to one device. It may stop game sharing but seems really inconvenient to deal with.

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CPUIntel Core i5 6600K CPU Cooler - Corsair H80i v2 Motherboard - ASRock Fatal1ty Z170 GAMING ITX/AC RAM - 1x HyperX FURY 8GB 2133MHz DDR4 GPU - Nvidia GTX 1060 6GB Founders Edition  Storage - 1x HyperX FURY 120GB SSD, 1x WD Blue 1TB 2.5" HDD, 1x WD Black 330GB 2.5" HDD Power Supply - EVGA Supernova 650W G3 Case - Silverstone SUGO SG13B

 

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1 hour ago, nickyteddy said:

I'd say they're somehow trying to stop piracy by LITERALLY locking the account down to one device. It may stop game sharing but seems really inconvenient to deal with.

Their anti piracy has never been that great anyway. Locking accounts doesn't even stop piracy, though as you said it does stop game sharing. Though if you look at other platforms, for example Steam, game sharing is quite common on Steam. You could even say they encourage it tbh.

There are 10 types of people in this world. Those that understand binary and those that don't.

Current Rig (Dominator II): 8GB Corsair Vengeance LPX DDR4 3133 C15, AMD Ryzen 3 1200 at 4GHz, Coolermaster MasterLiquid Lite 120, ASRock B450M Pro4, AMD R9 280X, 120GB TCSunBow SSD, 3TB Seagate ST3000DM001-9YN166 HSD, Corsair CX750M Grey Label, Windows 10 Pro, 2x CoolerMaster MasterFan Pro 120, Thermaltake Versa H18 Tempered Glass.

 

Previous Rig (Black Magic): 8GB DDR3 1600, AMD FX6300 OC'd to 4.5GHz, Zalman CNPS5X Performa, Asus M5A78L-M PLUS /USB3, GTX 950 SC (former, it blew my PCIe lane so now on mobo graphics which is Radeon HD 3000 Series), 1TB Samsung Spinpoint F3 7200RPM HDD, 3TB Seagate ST3000DM001-9YN166 HDD (secondary), Corsair CX750M, Windows 8.1 Pro, 2x 120mm Red LED fans, Deepcool SMARTER case

 

My secondary rig (The Oldie): 4GB DDR2 800, Intel Core 2 Duo E8400 @ 3GHz, Stock Dell Cooler, Foxconn 0RY007, AMD Radeon HD 5450, 250GB Samsung Spinpoint 7200RPM HDD, Antec HCG 400M 400W Semi Modular PSU, Windows 8.1 Pro, 80mm Cooler Master fan, Dell Inspiron 530 Case modded for better cable management. UPDATE: SPECS UPGRADED DUE TO CASEMOD, 8GB DDR2 800, AMD Phenom X4 9650, Zalman CNPS5X Performa, Biostar GF8200C M2+, AMD Radeon HD 7450 GDDR5 edition, Samsung Spinpoint 250GB 7200RPM HDD, Antec HCG 400M 400W Semi Modular PSU, Windows 8.1 Pro, 80mm Cooler Master fan, Dell Inspiron 530 Case modded for better cable management and support for non Dell boards.

 

Retired/Dead Rigs: The OG (retired) (First ever PC I used at 3 years old back in 2005) Current Specs: 2GB DDR2, Pentium M 770 @ 2.13GHz, 60GB IDE laptop HDD, ZorinOS 12 Ultimate x86. Originally 512mb DDR2, Pentium M 740 @ 1.73GHzm 60GB IDE laptop HDD and single boot XP Pro. The Craptop (dead), 2gb DDR3, Celeron n2840 @ 2.1GHz, 50GB eMMC chip, Windows 10 Pro. Nightrider (dead and cannibalized for Dominator II): Ryzen 3 1200, Gigabyte A320M HD2, 8GB DDR4, XFX Ghost Core Radeon HD 7770, 1TB Samsung Spinpoint F3 (2010), 3TB Seagate Barracuda, Corsair CX750M Green, Deepcool SMARTER, Windows 10 Home.

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On 3/30/2018 at 6:50 PM, xriqn said:

Wow, they really screwed up there. The old 3DS E-Shop system worked much better- So long as u got ur account ur fine.

That's not my understanding of the old setup. I was under the impression that if you wanted to move from one 3DS/Wii U to another you had to physically have your other console running. Both needed to be connected to the internet for the entire process. The new console couldn't even be connected to your account at the same time. And it was a very long transfer process. With the Switch? Yes you need to go into the eShop and uncheck the box for the old console being the primary console. But that's it.

It's definitely an improvement on how it used to be. Pre Switch Nintendo was tying everything about your account to the console itself. With the Switch its tied to your account. Technically your old console doesn't need to be working for you to copy your purchases across.

 

Fools think they know everything, experts know they know nothing

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On 3/31/2018 at 6:03 PM, skywake said:

That's not my understanding of the old setup. I was under the impression that if you wanted to move from one 3DS/Wii U to another you had to physically have your other console running. Both needed to be connected to the internet for the entire process. The new console couldn't even be connected to your account at the same time. And it was a very long transfer process. With the Switch? Yes you need to go into the eShop and uncheck the box for the old console being the primary console. But that's it.

It's definitely an improvement on how it used to be. Pre Switch Nintendo was tying everything about your account to the console itself. With the Switch its tied to your account. Technically your old console doesn't need to be working for you to copy your purchases across.

 

Awesome! Too bad you lose all your saves if your Switch isn't working any more since they don't have a way to do backups at the moment other than transferring the contents of one Switch to another.

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