How to upgrade hp pro 6300 MT power supply or HP Elite 8200 sff (fix)

[longtom]

On 1/7/2020 at 2:22 AM, yonkhuan said:

hi all and FPS god.

 

Correction

 

For my problem should be cut the blue cable (24 pin)  and connect it to the green tac cable of your CPU cooler as below picture.

 

Thanks FPS god

 

Thanks a lot! Had also the issue with a 8200 SFF Elite HP Compaq!

Seems that this HP connector needs the sense signal from (any) fan.

Used this cabel for a standard PSU:https://www.amazon.de/gp/product/B0888FW2SD

 

Edited December 17, 2020 by longtom
Wrong link

[mbuhl]

Thank you very much. I was able to buy this cable in Germany: https://www.amazon.de/dp/B06XW7RWNH

It doesn't have the 12V cable on the p2 connector so I cut off the gray cable from the HP PSU and soldered it to one of the 12V Cables on the 6 Pin.

 

Do I understand it correctly that there is no ground in that socket?

What was the red striped cable for?

 

I did not receive any fan errors.

[PcNoob111]

On 3/4/2018 at 12:37 PM, FPS god said:

Hi, first I apologize for any grammar mistakes, English is not my native language, so i wanted to upgrade my HP pro 6300's power supply to something more powerful but the motherboard gets power from a weird p2 connector and a 6 pin connector instead of a standard 24 pin power connector. after doing a little bit of research, i managed to stick in an EVGA 500w PSU and everything is working fine so far, if anyone wants to know how i did it, here is what you need to do.

 

- buy a 24 pin to 6 pin adapter cable ( around $10) https://i.imgur.com/mAH1oTQ.jpg but they are made for z220/z230 workstations only. so, you'll have to easily change the pins layout of that white p2 connector for the adapter to work with your HP pro 6300. (this is the one I bought   https://www.amazon.ca/gp/product/B075242NGZ/ref=ppx_yo_dt_b_asin_title_o00_s00?ie=UTF8&psc=1)

 

- remove all 4 cables from that white p2 connector and compare the cables with the ones from your old PSU.

your old PSU will have 4 or 5 cables on that p2 connector ( grey, green, white, white with red stripes, and sometimes black) .

the adapter will have (yellow, green, red, black)

 

ok, then put the yellow cable back in where the grey one was and put the green one back in where the green one was and put the black one back in where the pure white one was. and put the red one exactly next to where you put the yellow one. 

 

ok now turn on your pc and that's it.

 

if you get an error on startup saying that the PSU fan is not detected, press F1 to ignore it and continue, but if you get tired of the error every time you start your pc and want to fix it, here is what to do.

 

remember the black cable you inserted where the pure white one was, that cable is a TAC cable, it sends the PSU fan speed readings to motherboard but since the new PSU's wiring is not the same as the old HP one, the motherboard has no clue. so, you'll need to cut that black cable from where the cable meets with the 24 pin connector thingy (just to get enough length of it) https://i.imgur.com/n3W9MG5.jpg and then you'll need to attach it to the green TAC cable of the CPU fan connector and this will trick the motherboard into thinking that the CPU fan it is sensing is the PSU fan and you won't get any errors. Good luck

https://i.imgur.com/63KGBe5.jpg

https://i.imgur.com/DRN6twk.jpg

Edit : The fan error stopped showing up after a few days or so without doing any modification (that fan error is probably set up to show up a certain number of times). 

 

Edit 2: Another option would be buying a dual SATA to 6 pin or 8 pin cable but it's not really recommended for anything above a GTX1060 cause these prebuilt PCs come with only 320W PSU, here's how it works https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=JkmsLxnCfrQ

 

Edit 3:  Here's a diagram of how exactly my adapter is wired https://imgur.com/20grXCC. For those that have differently colored adapters, you can still follow this diagram but you gotta check where your wires are going exactly.

 

 

I know i’m late and i made an account to ask for help every time i do it my think beeps 4 times a second until i unplug it i have checked everything and it looks right to me help please 

[PcNoob111]

On 3/4/2018 at 12:37 PM, FPS god said:

Hi, first I apologize for any grammar mistakes, English is not my native language, so i wanted to upgrade my HP pro 6300's power supply to something more powerful but the motherboard gets power from a weird p2 connector and a 6 pin connector instead of a standard 24 pin power connector. after doing a little bit of research, i managed to stick in an EVGA 500w PSU and everything is working fine so far, if anyone wants to know how i did it, here is what you need to do.

 

- buy a 24 pin to 6 pin adapter cable ( around $10) https://i.imgur.com/mAH1oTQ.jpg but they are made for z220/z230 workstations only. so, you'll have to easily change the pins layout of that white p2 connector for the adapter to work with your HP pro 6300. (this is the one I bought   https://www.amazon.ca/gp/product/B075242NGZ/ref=ppx_yo_dt_b_asin_title_o00_s00?ie=UTF8&psc=1)

 

- remove all 4 cables from that white p2 connector and compare the cables with the ones from your old PSU.

your old PSU will have 4 or 5 cables on that p2 connector ( grey, green, white, white with red stripes, and sometimes black) .

the adapter will have (yellow, green, red, black)

 

ok, then put the yellow cable back in where the grey one was and put the green one back in where the green one was and put the black one back in where the pure white one was. and put the red one exactly next to where you put the yellow one. 

 

ok now turn on your pc and that's it.

 

if you get an error on startup saying that the PSU fan is not detected, press F1 to ignore it and continue, but if you get tired of the error every time you start your pc and want to fix it, here is what to do.

 

remember the black cable you inserted where the pure white one was, that cable is a TAC cable, it sends the PSU fan speed readings to motherboard but since the new PSU's wiring is not the same as the old HP one, the motherboard has no clue. so, you'll need to cut that black cable from where the cable meets with the 24 pin connector thingy (just to get enough length of it) https://i.imgur.com/n3W9MG5.jpg and then you'll need to attach it to the green TAC cable of the CPU fan connector and this will trick the motherboard into thinking that the CPU fan it is sensing is the PSU fan and you won't get any errors. Good luck

https://i.imgur.com/63KGBe5.jpg

https://i.imgur.com/DRN6twk.jpg

Edit : The fan error stopped showing up after a few days or so without doing any modification (that fan error is probably set up to show up a certain number of times). 

 

Edit 2: Another option would be buying a dual SATA to 6 pin or 8 pin cable but it's not really recommended for anything above a GTX1060 cause these prebuilt PCs come with only 320W PSU, here's how it works https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=JkmsLxnCfrQ

 

Edit 3:  Here's a diagram of how exactly my adapter is wired https://imgur.com/20grXCC. For those that have differently colored adapters, you can still follow this diagram but you gotta check where your wires are going exactly.

 

 

Help my computer keeps beeping 4 times and it’s blinking red i thought i had it connected right but now i don’t know 

[MyNameWontFi]

16 hours ago, PcNoob111 said:

Help my computer keeps beeping 4 times and it’s blinking red i thought i had it connected right but now i don’t know 

Did you also check the cables that goes to the small shrink-wraped board and that 6-pin connector? every single cable on that adapter needs to be wired like https://imgur.com/20grXCC.

Also, to make sure the problem is not being caused by something else like a faulty RAM stick, make sure your PC is still working fine with the HP PSU.

[FRUSTRATED_BEYOND_BELIEF]

OK, SO..."FPS GOD!"...would you please mind telling all of us WHY YOU THINK IT IS SO SIMPLE TO SWITCH THESE WIRES AROUND, when they are crimped internally, and if you pull one out, you cannot get it to go back it, and it will not be in the crimped metal that it came out of???

 

Why do you tell people to do this, when the P2s are solid pieces of plastic, and you cannot "uncrimp them" in order to switch the wires

 

IF it turns out that I am mistaken, I will apologize...but I do not believe that I am.

 

Kindly please answer this upon receipt,  because due to your "advice," we have gone through THREE connector cables, and nothing is working, due to the problem mentioned above, about not being able to so readily "switch wires."

 

I am very intrigued to hear what your answer will be.

 

Thank you.

[FRUSTRATED_BEYOND_BELIEF]

PS So far this is a disaster, and has not been worth the time, aggravation or money put into it.

 

Until we hear back, we would STRONGLY urge no one to try this!!!!

 

Thank you.

[MyNameWontFi]

.

[MyNameWontFi]

17 hours ago, FRUSTRATED_BEYOND_BELIEF said:

PS So far this is a disaster, and has not been worth the time, aggravation or money put into it.

 

Until we hear back, we would STRONGLY urge no one to try this!!!!

 

Thank you.

 https://imgur.com/a/Bowd2EY those metal hooks catch on the plastic housing when you try to remove the wires. Simply push those hooks toward the wires so that they won't get caught when pulling the wires out. To put the wires back in, lift those hooks back in place and insert the wires in the plastic housing. If you still don't get it, watch tutorials on youtube. https://youtu.be/x5_58o0WaTM?t=127 (this is a CPU power cable but it's the same concept.)

[FRUSTRATED_BEYOND_BELIEF]

OK. Thank you for replying. Out of sheer frustration, I thought to try one of those little clips, and amazingly, they unclipped and pulled out.

 

BUT....NOT WITHOUT A LOT OF PUSHING DOWN, WHICH FLATTENED THEM A BIT.

So we had to unbend the clips, just a little bit, so that they would clip back in.

 

BUT NOW....we had switched the CMOS battery, and it is reading:

 

"161-Real-Time Clock Power Loss.

The systtem time is invalid. This may be a result of a loss in battery power.

Set the correct time and date using your operating system. If this message

persists, you may need to replace the onboard battery."

 

 

 

ALL of the other error messages have gone away...so THANK YOU, FOR THAT!!!!

 

But now we are totally stopped in our tracks with this battery error.

 

Any ideas?

 

[FRUSTRATED_BEYOND_BELIEF]

Okay...solved it ourselves.

 

The keyboard being used is a Corsair K55, but for whatever reason the F1 key does nothing....(We have researched this a bit, and apparently the FUNCTION keys on keyboards nowadays are preset for MEDIA controls, not SYSTEM controls. Problem is, we do not know how to change that.)

 

So, we borrowed another keyboard, and the F1 key rebooted the computer, and it reset itself.

 

 

 

***INTERESTING SIDE NOTE***:

 

Earlier in this thread, someone wrote that they found the ADAPTER that YOU recommended, (but which is not available on Amazon,) on Ebay.

 

We sent for, and received the ADAPTER, but even though the colors in the listing showed exactly, I MEAN EXACTLY, like the one you bought...WHAT SHOWED UP HAD COMPLETELY DIFFERENT COLORS.

 

plus, it had a green short wire which LOOPED the outer tow slots on the P2.

to

So, by using a little of the technique that we figured out, (prior to reading your entry, BUT THANK YOU JUST THE SAME,) we took out ALL of the wire, and put them back

ACCORDING TO YOUR HAND WRITTEN WIRING DIAGRAM. Thank you for THAT, too!

 

The adapter had the RED AND GREEN WIRES SWITCHED, AND A WHITE INSTEAD OF A YELLOW.

 

So it is now working, THANK YOU VERY MUCH AND.....(Drum roll please....BRRRRRRRRRRRRRRRRRRRRRRRRRRR...) 

 

I APOLOGIZE!!!!!

 

What? You can't hear me?

 

I APOLOGIZE!!!!!!!

 

Still not loud enough? OK......

 

I APOLOGIZE!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!

 

This is a computer that my son bought for his mom, and upgraded it to make it a gaming computer....and upgraded it, again,

because the 320 psu was just not up to the task of  playing video games.

 

So, now, he has upgraded it...has yet to test it out...but we are crossing fingers, that it will.

 

 

Thank you, very much, for your information, and your responses.

 

I 

[FRUSTRATED_BEYOND_BELIEF]

Below you will see how the wires were sent to us, NOT AS PICTURED IN THE ADD, but we  beat the system, and HOW WE REARRANGED THEM.

 

(AFTER ALL THIS, WE REALIZE IT MATTERS NOT HOW THE WIRES ARE CONFIGURED ON THE P2....ONLY that they are rearranged to match the DIAGRAM THAT YOU MADE!)

 

 

[L00NatIC]

Just ordered this one for my hp 6300 mt probably going to need help, I let yall know.

https://www.amazon.com/dp/B08DHW315H

[Guest]

2 minutes ago, L00NatIC said:

Just ordered this one for my hp 6300 mt probably going to need help, I let yall know.

https://www.amazon.com/dp/B08DHW315H

Then please post a new thread when it comes in.

 

[L00NatIC]

14 minutes ago, jonnyGURU said:

Then please post a new thread when it comes in.

 

Will do

[SZER0]

Sorry to revive this thread, but did someone tried to upgrade a 6000 pro?. I have tried all kind of configurations all day w/o any luck. 

 The original p2 connector have 5 wires as in the beggining of this thread. 

 The conector i have purchased on the big wires are the same examples around here(speaking of the 6 pin, plus the module) but the p2 conector have the next configuration:

-brown-ps on

-blue-com

Yellow-com

Grey-power ok

 

 

 Because i tried so many, i have cut the p2 connector from the original psu, took off wires from the p2 of the conversion cable and tried all kind of configurations. The colours i don't think is matter as only a 3 wire can be used, a combination between PWR_OK, PS_ON and a COM. 

 

 Do anyone have any ideea how to do the configuration for the wires? 

 

[MyNameWontFi]

34 minutes ago, SZER0 said:

Sorry to revive this thread, but did someone tried to upgrade a 6000 pro?. I have tried all kind of configurations all day w/o any luck. 

 The original p2 connector have 5 wires as in the beggining of this thread. 

 The conector i have purchased on the big wires are the same examples around here(speaking of the 6 pin, plus the module) but the p2 conector have the next configuration:

-brown-ps on

-blue-com

Yellow-com

Grey-power ok

 

 

 Because i tried so many, i have cut the p2 connector from the original psu, took off wires from the p2 of the conversion cable and tried all kind of configurations. The colours i don't think is matter as only a 3 wire can be used, a combination between PWR_OK, PS_ON and a COM. 

 

 Do anyone have any ideea how to do the configuration for the wires? 

 

https://imgur.com/20grXCC (ignore the colors, just copy where the cables are going)

[SZER0]

46 minutes ago, FPS god said:

https://imgur.com/20grXCC (ignore the colors, just copy where the cables are going)

Already did that(actually was the first try)...i have also installed the speaker and i am getting 4 beeps , tryed to clear cmos etc...acording to the hp psu overload....i have reinstalled the old p2 connector to the old psu and the mobo is starting...and also tried the TAC thing with the cpu cooler

BTw in the picture...you are looking on the back of the connectors?

[SZER0]

10 hours ago, FPS god said:

https://imgur.com/20grXCC (ignore the colors, just copy where the cables are going)

Any other ideeas? I am starting to think the cable is the fault...i ordered a new one different...
The one i was using now is this one: https://www.amazon.de/gp/product/B0888FW2SD/ref=ppx_yo_dt_b_asin_title_o02_s00?ie=UTF8&psc=1
This will be friday with me :   https://www.amazon.de/gp/product/B06XW7RWNH/ref=ppx_yo_dt_b_asin_title_o01_s00?ie=UTF8&psc=1

[MyNameWontFi]

7 minutes ago, SZER0 said:

Any other ideeas? I am starting to think the cable is the fault...i ordered a new one different...
The one i was using now is this one: https://www.amazon.de/gp/product/B0888FW2SD/ref=ppx_yo_dt_b_asin_title_o02_s00?ie=UTF8&psc=1
This will be friday with me :   https://www.amazon.de/gp/product/B06XW7RWNH/ref=ppx_yo_dt_b_asin_title_o01_s00?ie=UTF8&psc=1

You system might be incompatible. the HP 6000 series is very different from HP 6300, 8200, 8300, etc. These are based on LGA1155, but your LGA775 system is much older (the core 2 duo and core 2 quad era). The LGA 1155 platform brough a lot of architechture changes so, I wouldn't be surprised if the wiring on the motherboard is completely different. 

Also, there is another user named THX1138T on the 3rd page that had a HP 6000, and it didn't work.

[SZER0]

5 minutes ago, FPS god said:

You system might be incompatible. the HP 6000 series is very different from HP 6300, 8200, 8300, etc. These are based on LGA1155, but your LGA775 system is much older (the core 2 duo and core 2 quad era). The LGA 1155 platform brough a lot of architechture changes so, I wouldn't be surprised if the wiring on the motherboard is completely different. 

Also, there is another user named THX1138T on the 3rd page that had a HP 6000, and it didn't work.

So i am trowing it to a bin?:) I told you the p2 original connector had 5 wires with the same configuration you have presented at the opening of this thread. I will open the old PSU to se eif somehow the wires are labeled on the pcb of the psu.

[MyNameWontFi]

21 minutes ago, SZER0 said:

So i am trowing it to a bin?:) I told you the p2 original connector had 5 wires with the same configuration you have presented at the opening of this thread. I will open the old PSU to se eif somehow the wires are labeled on the pcb of the psu.

I advise you against opening the PSU unless you know what you're doing. PSU capacitors can hold enough charge to kill a human, and they can hold that charge for years.

You can still use a dual SATA to 6 pin or 8 pin cable. You could also get a 75W GPU.  

[SZER0]

Just now, FPS god said:

I advise you against opening the PSU unless you know what you're doing. PSU capacitors can hold enough charge to kill a human, and they can hold that charge for years.

You can still use a dual SATA to 6 pin or 8 pin cable. You could also get a 75W GPU.  

When i said i will open the old psu , definetly on off operation hoping that on the pcb is labeled somehow the wires. And the mb i want to use it for mining with 2 cards so i don't plan to use it for something else .
But do you think here is the 6 pin connection the issue? Not the P2 connector?

 

[MyNameWontFi]

26 minutes ago, SZER0 said:

When i said i will open the old psu , definetly on off operation hoping that on the pcb is labeled somehow the wires. And the mb i want to use it for mining with 2 cards so i don't plan to use it for something else .
But do you think here is the 6 pin connection the issue? Not the P2 connector?

 

If it's just a mining rig, these don't cost much more than that adapter. 

 

* https://www.ebay.de/itm/124988901527?hash=item1d19eb4897%3Ag%3A9MsAAOSwlHNhhIfd&LH_BIN=1

 

* https://www.ebay.de/itm/154130327591?hash=item23e2e22827%3Ag%3AO1QAAOSwSH1f-GT~&LH_BIN=1

[SZER0]

9 minutes ago, FPS god said:

If it's just a mining rig, these don't cost much more than that adapter. 

 

* https://www.ebay.de/itm/124988901527?hash=item1d19eb4897%3Ag%3A9MsAAOSwlHNhhIfd&LH_BIN=1

 

* https://www.ebay.de/itm/154130327591?hash=item23e2e22827%3Ag%3AO1QAAOSwSH1f-GT~&LH_BIN=1

plus the adapter....btw i found this picture, So here basically is used different pins from the 24 connector , but they are ground....Can this be a problem?