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Another thing is that I want to program my own bios chip and keep the original one.

Flash a custom BIOS on an existing chip?  Or make a custom BIOS chip to put on a motherboard?

1 hour ago, Ripmin-PSN said:

here's an example, something you would benefit in an enterprise setting.  Instead of a PCIE card host and slave BUS adapters you can switch out the chips (BIOS chips, not doritos. lol.)

 

1.)  PCIE interface #1:  Enable as Backplane

Description:   Use motherboard as a backplane for host computers as well as

a co-processor for host operating systems.

2.)  PCIE interface #2:  Enable as host computer.  (normal)

Sounds interesting, not sure how difficult that will be.  If you are using a UEFI BIOS then these may be helpful.

https://software.intel.com/en-us/articles/uefi-shell

http://x86asm.net/articles/uefi-programming-first-steps/

Idea:   Liquid cooling with 90% alcohol.

Reasons:   Depending on what kind of alcohol there is (the amount I mean) I can cool my system without having to worry about any crap growing in the loop as well as to go to very cold temperatures without freezing.   In otherwords, I want to mount the cooling radiator outside of my winter home and not have to worry about those two things.

I could go with a DIY Freon cooling system but do you know how much power that it will be pulling from the wall?  A lot! 

 

If there any comments, thoughts and ideas please tell me.  :)  I'm willing to hear what you guys got.

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1 minute ago, Ripmin-PSN said:

Idea:   Liquid cooling with 90% alcohol.

Reasons:   Depending on what kind of alcohol there is (the amount I mean) I can cool my system without having to worry about any crap growing in the loop as well as to go to very cold temperatures without freezing.   In otherwords, I want to mount the cooling radiator outside of my winter home and not have to worry about those two things.

I could go with a DIY Freon cooling system but do you know how much power that it will be pulling from the wall?  A lot! 

 

If there any comments, thoughts and ideas please tell me.  :)  I'm willing to hear what you guys got.

Alcohol ruins acrylic. Also, you need a proper PH. Alcohol evaporates MUCH faster than coolant, so you'll have to refill your loop much more frequently.

Main PC:

CPU: Intel Core i9 13900KS SP 116 (124P-102E) (6.1Ghz P-Cores 4.8Ghz E-cores) MC SP 88

CPU Voltage: LLC8 1.525V (real voltage 1.425V + - Temps 85-90 P-Cores, 70-73 E-cores)

Cooled by: Supercool Direct Die 14th gen full nickel

Motherboard: Z790 ASUS Maximus Apex Encore

RAM: GSkill TridentZ 2x24GB DDR5 8600Mhz CL38 (OC from 8000Mhz CL40)

GPU: RTX MSI 4090 Suprim X with EKWB waterblock

Case: My own case fabricated out of aluminium and wood

Storage: 4x 2TB Sarbent Rocket Plus Gen 4.0 NVMe, 1x External 2TB Seagate Barracuda (Backup)

WiFi: BE202 WiFi 7 Tri-Band card module

PSU: Corsair AX1600i with custom black and red cables with 2x Corsair 5V+ Load Balancer

Display: Samsung Oddysey G9 240Hz Ver. 5120x1440 with G-Sync and Freesync Premium Pro 1008 Firmware Ver, and 1x Electriq USB C 1080p 15'8 inch IPS portable display for temperature and stats, MSI 23'8 144Hz G-Sync

Fan Controllers:  6x AquaComputer Octo with 5 temperature sensors

Cooling: Three Custom Loops:

1st Loop: 5x 480mm XE CoolStream radiators with 1x Revo D5 RGB pump and 1x Rajintek Antila D5 Evo RGB pump for GPU only cooling with 2x Koolance QDC3, red coolant

2nd Loop: 5x 480mm XE CoolStream radiators with 1x Revo D5 RGB pump and 1x Rajintek Antila D5 Evo RGB pump for CPU only cooling with 2x Koolance QDC3, purple coolant

3rd Loop: 1x 240mm PE CoolStream radiator with 1x EKWB Revo D5 pump (RAM ONLY)

Total: 5x pumps and 13x radiators 50x 3000RPM Noctua Industrial fans

Keyboard: Razer BlackWidow V3 RGB - Green switches

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The coolant won't freeze but you will cause condensation on the pipes which will drip and kill the PC

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alchohol has a lower boiling point and evaporates too quickly.

it also eat acrylic so say good bye to your res.

 

 

edit: ninja'd

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Just now, TheNaitsyrk said:

Alcohol ruins acrylic. Also, you need a proper PH. Alcohol evaporates MUCH faster than coolant, so you'll have to refill your loop much more frequently.

PH level and no acrylic, do you think it is a great idea or is it a little... useless?

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1 minute ago, Ripmin-PSN said:

PH level and no acrylic, do you think it is a great idea or is it a little... useless?

Useless. It will also not be any better than normal coolant.

Main PC:

CPU: Intel Core i9 13900KS SP 116 (124P-102E) (6.1Ghz P-Cores 4.8Ghz E-cores) MC SP 88

CPU Voltage: LLC8 1.525V (real voltage 1.425V + - Temps 85-90 P-Cores, 70-73 E-cores)

Cooled by: Supercool Direct Die 14th gen full nickel

Motherboard: Z790 ASUS Maximus Apex Encore

RAM: GSkill TridentZ 2x24GB DDR5 8600Mhz CL38 (OC from 8000Mhz CL40)

GPU: RTX MSI 4090 Suprim X with EKWB waterblock

Case: My own case fabricated out of aluminium and wood

Storage: 4x 2TB Sarbent Rocket Plus Gen 4.0 NVMe, 1x External 2TB Seagate Barracuda (Backup)

WiFi: BE202 WiFi 7 Tri-Band card module

PSU: Corsair AX1600i with custom black and red cables with 2x Corsair 5V+ Load Balancer

Display: Samsung Oddysey G9 240Hz Ver. 5120x1440 with G-Sync and Freesync Premium Pro 1008 Firmware Ver, and 1x Electriq USB C 1080p 15'8 inch IPS portable display for temperature and stats, MSI 23'8 144Hz G-Sync

Fan Controllers:  6x AquaComputer Octo with 5 temperature sensors

Cooling: Three Custom Loops:

1st Loop: 5x 480mm XE CoolStream radiators with 1x Revo D5 RGB pump and 1x Rajintek Antila D5 Evo RGB pump for GPU only cooling with 2x Koolance QDC3, red coolant

2nd Loop: 5x 480mm XE CoolStream radiators with 1x Revo D5 RGB pump and 1x Rajintek Antila D5 Evo RGB pump for CPU only cooling with 2x Koolance QDC3, purple coolant

3rd Loop: 1x 240mm PE CoolStream radiator with 1x EKWB Revo D5 pump (RAM ONLY)

Total: 5x pumps and 13x radiators 50x 3000RPM Noctua Industrial fans

Keyboard: Razer BlackWidow V3 RGB - Green switches

Sound: Logitech Z680 5.1 THX Certified 505W Speakers

Mouse: Razer Basilisk Ultimate Wireless with charging dock

Piano: Yamaha P155

Phone: Oppo Find X5 Pro

Camera: Logitech Brio Pro 4K

VR: Oculus Rift S

External SSD: 256GB Overclocking OS

LaptopMSI Titan GT77HX V13RTX 4090 175W, i9 13980HX OC: P-Cores 5.8Ghz 3 cores and 5.2Ghz 5 cores and E-Cores 4.3Ghz, 192GB of RAM @5600Mhz @3600 (chipset limit),

12TB (3x4TB) of NVMe, 17'3 inch 4K 144Hz MiniLED screen, 4x 17'3 ASUS portable USB-C Monitors 240Hz, Creative Sound Blaster G6 Sound Card, Portable 16TB NVMe in TB4 enclosures (8x2TB), Razer Basilisk Ultimate Wireless with charging dock gaming mouse, Keychron K3 gaming keyboard with blue switches low profile, Logitech Brio 4K Webcam.

Hand held: ROG Ally with XG Mobile RTX 3080 with Keychron K3 low profile keyboard (Blue Switches) and Razer Hyperspeed V3 mouse and 4TB NVMe upgrade (WDBlack SN850X), with 100W 20000Mah power bank and portable monitor ROG XG17AHP 17'3 inch 240Hz with built in battery, and 518Wh Power station for Camping.

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20 hours ago, Ryan_Vickers said:

The coolant won't freeze but you will cause condensation on the pipes which will drip and kill the PC

0-0  Damn.

 

Note to self:  Get plenty of paper towels!!!

 

Just kidding, I'll just wrap the pipe runs with insulation so that it won't drip on the motherboard. :)

 

20 hours ago, TheNaitsyrk said:

Useless. It will also not be any better than normal coolant.

well damn.  I might as well delete this thread.

 

err, topic.  Sorry, I'm just used to being on the Sub reddits. lol

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5 minutes ago, Tsuki said:

alchohol has a lower boiling point and evaporates too quickly.

I wonder if that would be a problem or actually a benefit.  After all, look at this PC being cooled entirely by liquid boiling off a bare die

Granted this effect wouldn't kick inside the block and tubing until somewhere in the 80s for alcohol, but it's an interesting idea imo.

 

3 minutes ago, Ripmin-PSN said:

0-0  Damn.

 

Note to self:  Get plenty of paper towels!!!

 

Just kidding, I'll just wrap the pipe runs with insulation so that it won't drip on the motherboard. :)

You'll basically have to thermally insulate all of the tubing and all of the blocks and whatever is being cooled... theoretically possible but no small feat.

Any exposed bit that's been chilled by outside winter air will get wet with condensation.

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20 hours ago, Tsuki said:

alchohol has a lower boiling point and evaporates too quickly.

it also eat acrylic so say good bye to your res.

edit: ninja'd

well damn, I might as well delete this thread.

 

Then again, if anyone thinks of this idea then you can show them this thread so they will think twice you know?

 

20 hours ago, Ryan_Vickers said:

I wonder if that would be a problem or actually a benefit.  After all, look at this PC being cooled entirely by liquid evaporating off a bare die

 

You'll basically have to thermally insulate all of the tubing and all of the blocks and whatever is being cooled... theoretically possible but no small feat.

Any exposed bit that's been chilled by outside winter air will get wet with condensation.

Then again, I can create a poor man's vapor chamber cooler and route it from the pc inside my winter cabin to the outside in the cold.  

 

Good to know though man. :)

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1 minute ago, Ryan_Vickers said:

I wonder if that would be a problem or actually a benefit.  After all, look at this PC being cooled entirely by liquid evaporating off a bare die

it would work great, he would just have to constantly refill it, which would cost more than its worth.

with that computer, theyre using 3m novec, which is stupidly expensive(like $400/gallon) and is completely non-conductive

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Just now, Ripmin-PSN said:

Then again, I can create a poor man's vapor chamber cooler and route it from the pc inside my winter cabin to the outside in the cold.  

 

Good to know though man. :)

You'd be better off just putting the entire PC outside xD at least then it would be in air that already has uncondenseable moisture levels.

 

But don't really... getting snow on it and stuff would be bad... also rip as soon as you bring it back inside (condensation galore lol)

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Just now, Tsuki said:

it would work great, he would just have to constantly refill it, which would cost more than its worth.

How much would actually leak out through all the fittings as vapour though?  I'm thinking that whatever boils would re-condense in the rad

Just now, Tsuki said:

with that computer, theyre using 3m novec, which is stupidly expensive(like $400/gallon) and is completely non-conductive

Yeah I know, but if the fluid was contained to a loop, conductivity doesn't matter (I mean, we usually use water afterall lol)

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Just now, Tsuki said:

it would work great, he would just have to constantly refill it, which would cost more than its worth.

with that computer, theyre using 3m novec, which is stupidly expensive(like $400/gallon) and is completely non-conductive

ho-.....-ly...... shhiiiiiiiiiiieeeet.  0^0 

 

Sorry, I can only afford a laptop that's $500 ($499.95).

 

What kind?    DIS ONE ---->  http://www.eluktronics.com/w650kk1

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Better h ope that it doesn't leak... WHOOOOOM! there goes your PC... and your house.

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2 minutes ago, Ryan_Vickers said:

You'd be better off just putting the entire PC outside xD at least then it would be in air that already has uncondenseable moisture levels.

 

But don't really... getting snow on it and stuff would be bad... also rip as soon as you bring it back inside (condensation galore lol)

lol.  :)

Hmmm, I wonder, what kind of cooling system should I go with when I have a bunch of GPUs in a backplane expansion case?  err,  not the kind you would expect.. basically a bunch of PCIE risers being used as a single expansion board.

 

#poormansenterprisehardwarelol

 

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1 minute ago, Ryan_Vickers said:

How much would actually leak out through all the fittings as vapour though?  I'm thinking that whatever boils would re-condense in the rad

Yeah I know, but if the fluid was contained to a loop, conductivity doesn't matter (I mean, we usually use water afterall lol)

i mean.. as long as it condensed back into liquid quick enough, and he didnt use any acrylic parts...

it could work

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Just now, Tsuki said:

i mean.. as long as it condensed back into liquid quick enough, and he didnt use any acrylic parts...

it could work

:3  yay.  I ish happizzz.

 

No seriously, I'm glad to know before hand y'know?  :)

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3 minutes ago, Tsuki said:

i mean.. as long as it condensed back into liquid quick enough, and he didnt use any acrylic parts...

it could work

Yeah alcohol by itself isn't crazy imo.  You'd need tubing, res, etc that can handle it properly (not disintegrate, not let it leak) but it should work.  It wouldn't be ideal since the heat capacity is much lower so you'd need to pass much more liquid through the block per second in order to achieve the same cooling and the same delta T of the liquid doing the cooling, but it should be possible.  I'd be very curious to see what effect happens from the boiling.  As for the rate of boiling,  I wouldn't worry, obviously in any stable loop the rate of heat into the loop from the part must equal the rate of heat out from the rad, or it's not going to work, and this is true regardless of any boiling that may or may not be going on inside.  Ie, it would condense fast enough.

 

My main concern is putting the rad outside in the winter... that's a recipe for disaster.

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20 hours ago, sazrocks said:

Better h ope that it doesn't leak... WHOOOOOM! there goes your PC... and your house.

Then again, that's AMD memes in a nutshell.   lol. :)

 

20 hours ago, Ryan_Vickers said:

Yeah alcohol by itself isn't crazy imo.  You'd need tubing, res, etc that can handle it properly (not disintegrate, not let it leak) but it should work.  It wouldn't be ideal since the heat capacity is much lower so you'd need to pass much more liquid through the block per second in order to achieve the same cooling and the same delta T of the liquid doing the cooling, but it should be possible.  I'd be very curious to see what effect happens from the boiling.  As for the rate of boiling,  I wouldn't worry, obviously in any stable loop the rate of heat into the loop from the part must equal the rate of heat out from the rad, or it's not going to work, and this is true regardless of any boiling that may or may not be going on inside.  Ie, it would condense fast enough.

 

My main concern is putting the rad outside in the winter... that's a recipe for disaster.

I could put the rad inside but my house will be hotter than the crevices of my ex... yeah... not a funny joke either. :/

 

But no, I do understand man.  I'm just experimenting with what I got y'know?

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20 minutes ago, TheNaitsyrk said:

Alcohol ruins acrylic. Also, you need a proper PH. Alcohol evaporates MUCH faster than coolant, so you'll have to refill your loop much more frequently.

like every day xD or something rediculous like that

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Just now, Ripmin-PSN said:

I could put the rad inside but my house will be hotter than the crevices of my ex... yeah... not a funny joke either. :/

 

But no, I do understand man.  I'm just experimenting with what I got y'know?

It's an interesting idea for sure.  The appeal of not needing to worry about anything growing in the loop is nice, but the other benefit of not freezing below 0 doesn't really provide any real world value, and as for the other potential issues, well, they're enough that it's probably not worth doing, as others have said :P 

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Just now, SquintyG33Rs said:

like every day xD or something rediculous like that

by constant he/she means that I would possibly have to refill it every night or day or even worse:   every time I even use the computer. 0-0

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1 minute ago, Ripmin-PSN said:

by constant he/she means that I would possibly have to refill it every night or day or even worse:   every time I even use the computer. 0-0

yeah alcohol isn't the best option if you want to prevent growth. glycol based additives are much sensible solutions (like car antifreeze)

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Just now, Ryan_Vickers said:

It's an interesting idea for sure.  The appeal of not needing to worry about anything growing in the loop is nice, but the other benefit of not freezing below 0 doesn't really provide any real world value, and as for the other potential issues, well, they're enough that it's probably not worth doing, as others have said :P 

I have neglected to mention of using a pump for the water-alcohol mix.  

That's why I didn't want it to freeze.

And that's why I wanted to mount the rad outside the house.

When you have frozen water you don't have any movement. :P

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Just now, Ripmin-PSN said:

I have neglected to mention of using a pump for the water-alcohol mix.  

That's why I didn't want it to freeze.

And that's why I wanted to mount the rad outside the house.

When you have frozen water you don't have any movement. :P

Well, yes, there would be a pump.  There's always a pump in water cooling setups.

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