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Which wifi router?

FeralWombat
Go to solution Solved by iBabySlapper,
3 minutes ago, FeralWombat said:

Not living on a dorm, laptop isn't old, bought it new a few months ago. Basically there is an ethernet cable coming out of the wall, from what i understood, the landlord gives the routers mac address to the ISP and they enable the connection from their side, however plugging the laptop directly worked well before (I tried this when I was on the phone with the ISP, haven't tried it since tbh).

 

that's what I don't really understand actually, what kind of gimmick to they have on here. I live in Poland, so I'm not sure if telling you who is the ISP helps, unless you speak polish...

I've thought about those, however I've read or seen somewhere (maybe an LTT video?) that the performance of these highly depends on the quality of the cables you have on, which is something I have severe doubts about as this flat was built in the 70's and, save from cosmetic maintenance, I don't think the electrical wiring has ever been updated...I've been using a ups just in case.

Getting a decent 5ghz router like a TP link AC1600, and a intel wi-fi solution for your PC is my recommendation then.

Hi all,

 

First of all, small disclaimer, my knowledge on networking is limited (to say the least...) so I may be asking the wrong questions/assumptions all together.

I've been noticing some issues with my wireless connectivity (high ping during games, pages loading slower than usually; so all the usual stuff) and after some research and troubleshooting, I've pretty much narrowed it down to needing to get a new router.

What troubleshooting have I done?

-> Simple reboots, leaving the router off while not being used (over night and during the time I'm at work or just out of the house);

-> Limit the amount of devices connected via wifi - this one, unfortunately is difficult as the router is actually located in a pretty awkward place and I cannot run any cable to make a physical connection to any of my devices (I'm renting this apartment and the owner doesn't want any holes - "wifi is just fine" says the landlord)

-> connect a laptop directly to the wall (and this one is strange for me, as it worked, I went online without a modem... does this mean I don't need a wifi router modem combo?), direct connection gave me much higher speeds that wired connection to the router.

 

What are your suggestions?

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Wait, do you get your internet from a phone line, or do you live in like a dorm with ethernet on the wall?

Because unless you have a really old laptop with a inbuilt modem that should'nt work.

REMILIA Mk.IIIE CPU: Ryzen 9 3900X, Cooler: Arctic Freezer II 240 (Noctua NT-H2), RAM: 4x 8Gb sticks of Patriot Viper Steel Series 3600 CL17, Mobo: AsRock X570 Taichi, GPU: Inno3D RTX 3080 iChill x4 10G, Storage: 1TB Intel 670p NVME SSD boot drive, a few 1TB and 512gb SATA/NVME SSDs for game storage, 6 hard drives 1-4 TB, PSU: Corsair RM750 MY2019, Case: Cooler Master Mastercase 5 MC500 (with add-ons, Noctua NF-A14 and Arctic P14 fans), PCIE Cards: Cheap Chinese Marvell 88SE9215 4 port SATA card, Sonnet Allegro USB3.2 Card Monitors: ViewSonic Elite XG270QC (165hz, 1ms MPRT, 1440p, VA, Freesync PP, pneumatic stand), Hp Z27n (IPS, 60hz, 1440p, 8Ms), iiyama G2530HSU-B (75Hz, Freesync, one in landscape, one in Portrait, all on pneumatic monitor stands).

 

Mic: iSK UPM-1 USB XLR interface with Neewer NW700, Audio: Sabaj A3 160W DAC/AMP + Wharfdale Diamond 220 + Mission MS6 Sub, ifi Zen DAC v2 + ifi Zen CAN, Littledot Mk.II (w/ Soviet Power tubes and British Mulard M8100s/Soviet Voshkod 6JP-EV/ American General Electric JAN 5654W dependent on mood), Sendy Aiva (Primary), Beyer Dynamic DT990 250ohm Black Special Edition, Audeze EL-8 Open Back, Sennheiser HD598SE (modified to be a headset, snapped headband held together with gorilla tape), Mouse: SteelSeries Rival 600, Keyboard: Glorious GMMK ISO with Mengmoda MMD Tactile (main) and Kailh Box Navy (Function keys), Tribosys 3203 brush lubed, Taihao Green forest caps.

 

KOAKUMA Mk.IB (24/7 Folding Slave PC made of spare parts): CPU: Core i7 4770, Cooler: Some small antex cooler with 80mm fan, RAM: 2x 4Gb Sticks of 2400Mhz DDR3, Mobo: Asus H81i-Plus, GPU: R9 390 Nitro+ (barely fits in case), Storage: 256gb Korean no-name SATA SSD, PSU: Corsair CX550 (Gray label), Case: Antec ISK600 ITX case. [Given away to friend]

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Well if you plugged directly into the wall you have to have gotten internet from something. Who is your ISP?

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Your router sounds like it needs an upgrade if a wired connection is slower on it than on the motem.

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Ethernet Powerline Adapters

I would suggest the these as I am currently using them due to thick lead walls in an old house. I'd suggest the AV1200 over the AV2000 as I have heard they sometimes have issues with cutting out.

The fact that your wired connection to your router is worse than your wired connection to your modem seems to be extremely weird though so you may require a new router either way.

 

 

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46 minutes ago, ibabyslapper said:

Wait, do you get your internet from a phone line, or do you live in like a dorm with ethernet on the wall?

Because unless you have a really old laptop with a inbuilt modem that should'nt work.

Not living on a dorm, laptop isn't old, bought it new a few months ago. Basically there is an ethernet cable coming out of the wall, from what i understood, the landlord gives the routers mac address to the ISP and they enable the connection from their side, however plugging the laptop directly worked well before (I tried this when I was on the phone with the ISP, haven't tried it since tbh).

 

46 minutes ago, Lurick said:

Well if you plugged directly into the wall you have to have gotten internet from something. Who is your ISP?

that's what I don't really understand actually, what kind of gimmick to they have on here. I live in Poland, so I'm not sure if telling you who is the ISP helps, unless you speak polish...

44 minutes ago, wrrls0 said:

Ethernet Powerline Adapters

I would suggest the these as I am currently using them due to thick lead walls in an old house. I'd suggest the AV1200 over the AV2000 as I have heard they sometimes have issues with cutting out.

The fact that your wired connection to your router is worse than your wired connection to your modem seems to be extremely weird though so you may require a new router either way.

 

 

I've thought about those, however I've read or seen somewhere (maybe an LTT video?) that the performance of these highly depends on the quality of the cables you have on, which is something I have severe doubts about as this flat was built in the 70's and, save from cosmetic maintenance, I don't think the electrical wiring has ever been updated...I've been using a ups just in case.

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Just now, FeralWombat said:

-snip-

Ah, so you're in an apartment. In that case you shouldn't need a modem, just a router.

I was asking to see if you've got a fiber or coax provider but since you live in an apartment it doesn't matter.

 

For a router I would recommend looking at the TP-Link Archer C7 or similar routers.

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Prior Build Log/PC:

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3 minutes ago, FeralWombat said:

Not living on a dorm, laptop isn't old, bought it new a few months ago. Basically there is an ethernet cable coming out of the wall, from what i understood, the landlord gives the routers mac address to the ISP and they enable the connection from their side, however plugging the laptop directly worked well before (I tried this when I was on the phone with the ISP, haven't tried it since tbh).

 

that's what I don't really understand actually, what kind of gimmick to they have on here. I live in Poland, so I'm not sure if telling you who is the ISP helps, unless you speak polish...

I've thought about those, however I've read or seen somewhere (maybe an LTT video?) that the performance of these highly depends on the quality of the cables you have on, which is something I have severe doubts about as this flat was built in the 70's and, save from cosmetic maintenance, I don't think the electrical wiring has ever been updated...I've been using a ups just in case.

Getting a decent 5ghz router like a TP link AC1600, and a intel wi-fi solution for your PC is my recommendation then.

REMILIA Mk.IIIE CPU: Ryzen 9 3900X, Cooler: Arctic Freezer II 240 (Noctua NT-H2), RAM: 4x 8Gb sticks of Patriot Viper Steel Series 3600 CL17, Mobo: AsRock X570 Taichi, GPU: Inno3D RTX 3080 iChill x4 10G, Storage: 1TB Intel 670p NVME SSD boot drive, a few 1TB and 512gb SATA/NVME SSDs for game storage, 6 hard drives 1-4 TB, PSU: Corsair RM750 MY2019, Case: Cooler Master Mastercase 5 MC500 (with add-ons, Noctua NF-A14 and Arctic P14 fans), PCIE Cards: Cheap Chinese Marvell 88SE9215 4 port SATA card, Sonnet Allegro USB3.2 Card Monitors: ViewSonic Elite XG270QC (165hz, 1ms MPRT, 1440p, VA, Freesync PP, pneumatic stand), Hp Z27n (IPS, 60hz, 1440p, 8Ms), iiyama G2530HSU-B (75Hz, Freesync, one in landscape, one in Portrait, all on pneumatic monitor stands).

 

Mic: iSK UPM-1 USB XLR interface with Neewer NW700, Audio: Sabaj A3 160W DAC/AMP + Wharfdale Diamond 220 + Mission MS6 Sub, ifi Zen DAC v2 + ifi Zen CAN, Littledot Mk.II (w/ Soviet Power tubes and British Mulard M8100s/Soviet Voshkod 6JP-EV/ American General Electric JAN 5654W dependent on mood), Sendy Aiva (Primary), Beyer Dynamic DT990 250ohm Black Special Edition, Audeze EL-8 Open Back, Sennheiser HD598SE (modified to be a headset, snapped headband held together with gorilla tape), Mouse: SteelSeries Rival 600, Keyboard: Glorious GMMK ISO with Mengmoda MMD Tactile (main) and Kailh Box Navy (Function keys), Tribosys 3203 brush lubed, Taihao Green forest caps.

 

KOAKUMA Mk.IB (24/7 Folding Slave PC made of spare parts): CPU: Core i7 4770, Cooler: Some small antex cooler with 80mm fan, RAM: 2x 4Gb Sticks of 2400Mhz DDR3, Mobo: Asus H81i-Plus, GPU: R9 390 Nitro+ (barely fits in case), Storage: 256gb Korean no-name SATA SSD, PSU: Corsair CX550 (Gray label), Case: Antec ISK600 ITX case. [Given away to friend]

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Thank you very much to all for the very prompt replies :) as weird as it sounds, I've honestly considered moving because of this (well not the only issue, but lets say it's the straw which is breaking the camels back)

 

5 minutes ago, Lurick said:

Ah, so you're in an apartment. In that case you shouldn't need a modem, just a router.

I was asking to see if you've got a fiber or coax provider but since you live in an apartment it doesn't matter.

 

For a router I would recommend looking at the TP-Link Archer C7 or similar routers.

I've read good reviews about that specific router, it's fairly expensive here but I might just spring the extra buck to get me something reliable which actually works...

 

3 minutes ago, ibabyslapper said:

Getting a decent 5ghz router like a TP link AC1600, and a intel wi-fi solution for your PC is my recommendation then.

for wireless access on the desktop I've been using one of these: http://www.ebay.com/itm/TP-Link-TL-WN821N-Wireless-N-USB-WiFi-Adapter-300-Mbps-MIMO-Brand-NEW-Retail-BOX-/251547656315?epid=689196770&hash=item3a9168a07b:g:x~4AAOSw7NNUB6Zr

 

I imagine pci-e wireless card would make a better job, but those the price bump justify the performance bump? nonetheless, what would you recommend for this?

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1 minute ago, FeralWombat said:

 

Thank you very much to all for the very prompt replies :) as weird as it sounds, I've honestly considered moving because of this (well not the only issue, but lets say it's the straw which is breaking the camels back)

 

I've read good reviews about that specific router, it's fairly expensive here but I might just spring the extra buck to get me something reliable which actually works...

 

for wireless access on the desktop I've been using one of these: http://www.ebay.com/itm/TP-Link-TL-WN821N-Wireless-N-USB-WiFi-Adapter-300-Mbps-MIMO-Brand-NEW-Retail-BOX-/251547656315?epid=689196770&hash=item3a9168a07b:g:x~4AAOSw7NNUB6Zr

 

I imagine pci-e wireless card would make a better job, but those the price bump justify the performance bump? nonetheless, what would you recommend for this?

Basically a 5ghz Wi-Fi card is much faster than a normal 2.4ghz one, but you need a router that'll do 5ghz too.

5ghz doesn't penetrate walls as well though.

REMILIA Mk.IIIE CPU: Ryzen 9 3900X, Cooler: Arctic Freezer II 240 (Noctua NT-H2), RAM: 4x 8Gb sticks of Patriot Viper Steel Series 3600 CL17, Mobo: AsRock X570 Taichi, GPU: Inno3D RTX 3080 iChill x4 10G, Storage: 1TB Intel 670p NVME SSD boot drive, a few 1TB and 512gb SATA/NVME SSDs for game storage, 6 hard drives 1-4 TB, PSU: Corsair RM750 MY2019, Case: Cooler Master Mastercase 5 MC500 (with add-ons, Noctua NF-A14 and Arctic P14 fans), PCIE Cards: Cheap Chinese Marvell 88SE9215 4 port SATA card, Sonnet Allegro USB3.2 Card Monitors: ViewSonic Elite XG270QC (165hz, 1ms MPRT, 1440p, VA, Freesync PP, pneumatic stand), Hp Z27n (IPS, 60hz, 1440p, 8Ms), iiyama G2530HSU-B (75Hz, Freesync, one in landscape, one in Portrait, all on pneumatic monitor stands).

 

Mic: iSK UPM-1 USB XLR interface with Neewer NW700, Audio: Sabaj A3 160W DAC/AMP + Wharfdale Diamond 220 + Mission MS6 Sub, ifi Zen DAC v2 + ifi Zen CAN, Littledot Mk.II (w/ Soviet Power tubes and British Mulard M8100s/Soviet Voshkod 6JP-EV/ American General Electric JAN 5654W dependent on mood), Sendy Aiva (Primary), Beyer Dynamic DT990 250ohm Black Special Edition, Audeze EL-8 Open Back, Sennheiser HD598SE (modified to be a headset, snapped headband held together with gorilla tape), Mouse: SteelSeries Rival 600, Keyboard: Glorious GMMK ISO with Mengmoda MMD Tactile (main) and Kailh Box Navy (Function keys), Tribosys 3203 brush lubed, Taihao Green forest caps.

 

KOAKUMA Mk.IB (24/7 Folding Slave PC made of spare parts): CPU: Core i7 4770, Cooler: Some small antex cooler with 80mm fan, RAM: 2x 4Gb Sticks of 2400Mhz DDR3, Mobo: Asus H81i-Plus, GPU: R9 390 Nitro+ (barely fits in case), Storage: 256gb Korean no-name SATA SSD, PSU: Corsair CX550 (Gray label), Case: Antec ISK600 ITX case. [Given away to friend]

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9 minutes ago, ibabyslapper said:

Basically a 5ghz Wi-Fi card is much faster than a normal 2.4ghz one, but you need a router that'll do 5ghz too.

5ghz doesn't penetrate walls as well though.

That being the issue, there is a wall between the only place where I can actually plug in the router to where most devices will actually be operating... makes upgrading to a dual band router less viable (diminishing returns and all...).

 

Does this make any sense: simple network switch splitting the connection between 2x single band routers so there would be 2 wireless networks for all my devices instead of just the one.

I can try this as I have actually another wireless router which I'm just not using, I could get a switch fairly easy. Or is the likelihood of crosstalk (is that the right term for this even??) so great that this doesn't even make any sense?

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1 minute ago, FeralWombat said:

That being the issue, there is a wall between the only place where I can actually plug in the router to where most devices will actually be operating... makes upgrading to a dual band router less viable (diminishing returns and all...).

 

Does this make any sense: simple network switch splitting the connection between 2x single band routers so there would be 2 wireless networks for all my devices instead of just the one.

I can try this as I have actually another wireless router which I'm just not using, I could get a switch fairly easy. Or is the likelihood of crosstalk (is that the right term for this even??) so great that this doesn't even make any sense?

It shouldn't be a problem going through one or two thin walls, or one thick wall. A cheap switch will introduce even more latency to your network, so you're better off getting one good modem router imo.

REMILIA Mk.IIIE CPU: Ryzen 9 3900X, Cooler: Arctic Freezer II 240 (Noctua NT-H2), RAM: 4x 8Gb sticks of Patriot Viper Steel Series 3600 CL17, Mobo: AsRock X570 Taichi, GPU: Inno3D RTX 3080 iChill x4 10G, Storage: 1TB Intel 670p NVME SSD boot drive, a few 1TB and 512gb SATA/NVME SSDs for game storage, 6 hard drives 1-4 TB, PSU: Corsair RM750 MY2019, Case: Cooler Master Mastercase 5 MC500 (with add-ons, Noctua NF-A14 and Arctic P14 fans), PCIE Cards: Cheap Chinese Marvell 88SE9215 4 port SATA card, Sonnet Allegro USB3.2 Card Monitors: ViewSonic Elite XG270QC (165hz, 1ms MPRT, 1440p, VA, Freesync PP, pneumatic stand), Hp Z27n (IPS, 60hz, 1440p, 8Ms), iiyama G2530HSU-B (75Hz, Freesync, one in landscape, one in Portrait, all on pneumatic monitor stands).

 

Mic: iSK UPM-1 USB XLR interface with Neewer NW700, Audio: Sabaj A3 160W DAC/AMP + Wharfdale Diamond 220 + Mission MS6 Sub, ifi Zen DAC v2 + ifi Zen CAN, Littledot Mk.II (w/ Soviet Power tubes and British Mulard M8100s/Soviet Voshkod 6JP-EV/ American General Electric JAN 5654W dependent on mood), Sendy Aiva (Primary), Beyer Dynamic DT990 250ohm Black Special Edition, Audeze EL-8 Open Back, Sennheiser HD598SE (modified to be a headset, snapped headband held together with gorilla tape), Mouse: SteelSeries Rival 600, Keyboard: Glorious GMMK ISO with Mengmoda MMD Tactile (main) and Kailh Box Navy (Function keys), Tribosys 3203 brush lubed, Taihao Green forest caps.

 

KOAKUMA Mk.IB (24/7 Folding Slave PC made of spare parts): CPU: Core i7 4770, Cooler: Some small antex cooler with 80mm fan, RAM: 2x 4Gb Sticks of 2400Mhz DDR3, Mobo: Asus H81i-Plus, GPU: R9 390 Nitro+ (barely fits in case), Storage: 256gb Korean no-name SATA SSD, PSU: Corsair CX550 (Gray label), Case: Antec ISK600 ITX case. [Given away to friend]

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4 minutes ago, ibabyslapper said:

It shouldn't be a problem going through one or two thin walls, or one thick wall. A cheap switch will introduce even more latency to your network, so you're better off getting one good modem router imo.

well I guess if it really doesn't workout I'll just return it. Thank you so much :)

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