Xbox One Question.

[TheSinisterGamer]

I'm currently working on a custom Xbox One for my girlfriend as I do themed Fallout gifts for her. I'm modifying an Xbox one to be Fallout 4 related and I have one primary question. I have planned out all the water cooling but the one issue I am running into is the connection for the water pump. Most DDC pumps, or the one I'm getting, needs 12V DC at 18W and my final goal is to make it where I don't have to add any extra cables or power supplies, in case she ever wants to revert it back. If I end up having to solder to the board then that would be fine but I'm just trying to figure out the best way of doing the pump. 

[r4tch3t]

If you have a newer Xbox then you could buy an old version power adaptor which would have spare power for the pump.

[TheSinisterGamer]

4 minutes ago, r4tch3t said:

If you have a newer Xbox then you could buy an old version power adaptor which would have spare power for the pump.

Oh sorry forgot to tell which one, its the older one. 

[rhyseyness]

The brick for the xbox one outputs 12V and 5V.

This means that the connector which plugs into the xbox end has 12V and 5V across it.

I'd recommend you solder onto one of the 12V and ground pins on the power connector inside the unit, where it's soldered to the PCB.

It's probably a through-hole connector so should be pretty easy to solder onto... only issue you might have is the PCB acting as a heat shunt.

Hope this helps

[r4tch3t]

Not sure how much they overspecced the supply, you might get away with it.

You could always reduce the pump speed to reduce power consumption to be on the safe side.

[TheSinisterGamer]

18 hours ago, r4tch3t said:

Not sure how much they overspecced the supply, you might get away with it.

You could always reduce the pump speed to reduce power consumption to be on the safe side.

I'm hoping that the DDC pumps requirements are above what it actually takes so I might get away with the pump actually using less power. I will check it out when it come in and test it and the power connector on the PCB to see what is what. I was hoping for a power on power off but It will still work. I'll double check around when that part comes in and I will also post the final product when I get it finished. 

[TheSinisterGamer]

22 hours ago, rhyseyness said:

The brick for the xbox one outputs 12V and 5V.

This means that the connector which plugs into the xbox end has 12V and 5V across it.

I'd recommend you solder onto one of the 12V and ground pins on the power connector inside the unit, where it's soldered to the PCB.

It's probably a through-hole connector so should be pretty easy to solder onto... only issue you might have is the PCB acting as a heat shunt.

Hope this helps

I will definately have to test the power and figure out which one. I'll also look for a on/off connection. I'm also going to have to double check the ability to use it without draining too much. 

[r4tch3t]

8 minutes ago, TheSinisterGamer said:

I'm hoping that the DDC pumps requirements are above what it actually takes so I might get away with the pump actually using less power.

It will use less power, it's likely the max rating. The pump will draw power depending in how restrictive your loop is.

What are you meaning by power on power off? If it's pump control then just throw a switch in the 12V line.

You can also make a tiny circuit with a knob to adjust the pwm to adjust the speed of the pump.  Look for "controlling a PWM fan with 555"

[rhyseyness]

1 hour ago, TheSinisterGamer said:

I will definately have to test the power and figure out which one. I'll also look for a on/off connection. I'm also going to have to double check the ability to use it without draining too much. 

I'd recommend you just wire a switch up to the xbox "power on" signal.

If you're experienced (and by the sounds of it you are), this can be done with a transistor or a relay.

 

Finding the power on signal could well be easier said than done though... best bet is probably the LED on the front of the unit.

LED +ve connected to transistor base, and then collector and emitter in line with your +ve rail for the pump.

You'll need a low bias voltage transistor (<1V probably), but big enough (physically) to take the current which your pump will draw collector->emitter (1.5A max).

 

+ve from connector-------------Collector-----Emitter--------------Pump +ve

                                                                |

                                                             Base

                                                                |

                                                     "on" LED +ve

 

Hope that diagram worked

You may need a current limiting resistor between the LED and the base of the transistor.

Relay works the same way, but I doubt that signal to the LED will have enough power to drive a relay.

 

Finding which pin of the power connector is 12V should be easily done though.

Either measure with a multimeter, or look up online.

I have no doubt someone has done it themselves at some point or another.

 

EDIT: If you're gonna do this, you want to make sure whatever signal you're using as "on" (transistor base), is only high when the xbox is actually on.

Otherwise you're going to end up back with your original problem of the pump being constantly on.

[TheSinisterGamer]

On 7/5/2017 at 11:25 PM, rhyseyness said:

I'd recommend you just wire a switch up to the xbox "power on" signal.

If you're experienced (and by the sounds of it you are), this can be done with a transistor or a relay.

 

Finding the power on signal could well be easier said than done though... best bet is probably the LED on the front of the unit.

LED +ve connected to transistor base, and then collector and emitter in line with your +ve rail for the pump.

You'll need a low bias voltage transistor (<1V probably), but big enough (physically) to take the current which your pump will draw collector->emitter (1.5A max).

 

+ve from connector-------------Collector-----Emitter--------------Pump +ve

                                                                |

                                                             Base

                                                                |

                                                     "on" LED +ve

 

Hope that diagram worked

You may need a current limiting resistor between the LED and the base of the transistor.

Relay works the same way, but I doubt that signal to the LED will have enough power to drive a relay.

 

Finding which pin of the power connector is 12V should be easily done though.

Either measure with a multimeter, or look up online.

I have no doubt someone has done it themselves at some point or another.

 

EDIT: If you're gonna do this, you want to make sure whatever signal you're using as "on" (transistor base), is only high when the xbox is actually on.

Otherwise you're going to end up back with your original problem of the pump being constantly on.

Thank you, when I get to this point I will definitely do this. I ended up running into an issue with the parts I chose, they were just a few MM too large. The clearance I have for the waterblock, radiator, and fan (these three things have to stack on each other, not ideal but its minuscule temperature changes) is only 55 mm and I currently cover 58 mm's. Does anyone know of a low form factor waterblock that I can use. My limit for the height is 17.3 MM as that is the remaining space that I have for this. I thought it was 20 mm but I was mistaken. Anyone have an Idea? I added a base picture that its current state is if anyone was interested. I still have more work to do but it is getting their slowly. 

 

Detail of changing the logo's color and finer metal look is still later, same with the rust and the metal grating to cover the fan. 

 

 

Oh also my lady knows about her present now and is very excited, our anniversary was on the 10th but the parts didn't come in on time and I wouldn't have been able to finish it anyways so ohh well. 

[rhyseyness]

7 hours ago, TheSinisterGamer said:

Thank you, when I get to this point I will definitely do this. I ended up running into an issue with the parts I chose, they were just a few MM too large. The clearance I have for the waterblock, radiator, and fan (these three things have to stack on each other, not ideal but its minuscule temperature changes) is only 55 mm and I currently cover 58 mm's. Does anyone know of a low form factor waterblock that I can use. My limit for the height is 17.3 MM as that is the remaining space that I have for this. I thought it was 20 mm but I was mistaken. Anyone have an Idea? I added a base picture that its current state is if anyone was interested. I still have more work to do but it is getting their slowly. 

 

Detail of changing the logo's color and finer metal look is still later, same with the rust and the metal grating to cover the fan. 

 

 

Oh also my lady knows about her present now and is very excited, our anniversary was on the 10th but the parts didn't come in on time and I wouldn't have been able to finish it anyways so ohh well. 

Dude that looks sick!!

I'll see if I can find you a waterblock.

What's your budget and are there any other constraints? (fitting size, mounting, etc.)

[TheSinisterGamer]

17 hours ago, rhyseyness said:

Dude that looks sick!!

I'll see if I can find you a waterblock.

What's your budget and are there any other constraints? (fitting size, mounting, etc.)

no restraints on money or fitting size I was going with i believe 10 mm tubing but that is fine to change. again mounting I'll figure out, Its just size that has been a major issue. 55 mm is max space.

 

Here are the rest of the pictures I currently have. and the green is the chosen color which I have paint that I might use to make it look like it is leaking. 

[rhyseyness]

3 hours ago, TheSinisterGamer said:

no restraints on money or fitting size I was going with i believe 10 mm tubing but that is fine to change. again mounting I'll figure out, Its just size that has been a major issue. 55 mm is max space.

So have you looked into the motherboard waterblocks?

The ones which cover the CPU, VRM etc.

Having a look yesterday, they looked a lot "shorter" than actual CPU blocks.

Maybe have a look into them?

I'm not sure how they mount, but I'm sure you can figure something out

[TheSinisterGamer]

8 hours ago, rhyseyness said:

So have you looked into the motherboard waterblocks?

The ones which cover the CPU, VRM etc.

Having a look yesterday, they looked a lot "shorter" than actual CPU blocks.

Maybe have a look into them?

I'm not sure how they mount, but I'm sure you can figure something out

I just looked at them but unfortunately the one issue with most water-blocks is that the fittings cannot be on the top. Placing them on the top will cause them to be wayyyyy to high for my use. The side ported water-blocks are what I need. I was looking at EK 1U annihilator water-block but I don't know if having such a small water flow is a good idea. I'm only using the regular water-cooling items and I want to make sure that this won't be bottle-necking the flow of the liquid. Also, I don't know the height of the annihilator block again having to be under 17 mm without the screws of course.

[TheSinisterGamer]

The fan I ordered just came in and now the case is able to close but it is flexing, I'm just going to need to find a radiator that is smaller than the current one that I have and I will be ready to go!

 

[TheSinisterGamer]

On 7/5/2017 at 11:25 PM, rhyseyness said:

I'd recommend you just wire a switch up to the xbox "power on" signal.

If you're experienced (and by the sounds of it you are), this can be done with a transistor or a relay.

 

Finding the power on signal could well be easier said than done though... best bet is probably the LED on the front of the unit.

LED +ve connected to transistor base, and then collector and emitter in line with your +ve rail for the pump.

You'll need a low bias voltage transistor (<1V probably), but big enough (physically) to take the current which your pump will draw collector->emitter (1.5A max).

 

+ve from connector-------------Collector-----Emitter--------------Pump +ve

                                                                |

                                                             Base

                                                                |

                                                     "on" LED +ve

 

Hope that diagram worked

You may need a current limiting resistor between the LED and the base of the transistor.

Relay works the same way, but I doubt that signal to the LED will have enough power to drive a relay.

 

Finding which pin of the power connector is 12V should be easily done though.

Either measure with a multimeter, or look up online.

I have no doubt someone has done it themselves at some point or another.

 

EDIT: If you're gonna do this, you want to make sure whatever signal you're using as "on" (transistor base), is only high when the xbox is actually on.

Otherwise you're going to end up back with your original problem of the pump being constantly on.

 

apparently their is a way to connect it without anything extra. I'm double checking on another forum that does system mods.

[rhyseyness]

On 7/24/2017 at 4:29 AM, TheSinisterGamer said:

 

apparently their is a way to connect it without anything extra. I'm double checking on another forum that does system mods.

Oh there definitely will be.

I just don't know where the appropriate power rail is.

Most power rails on the board will only be "on" when the unit is powered up.

It's just finding one of these rails with enough power to run the pump (not trying to pull too much current from it), and is "on" from power on to power down of the system.