AIO XBOX ONE & PC & Streaming setup w/built in battery backup

[Justin_]

Ok I went out in the cold and finished cutting all of the wood, and as could be expected, I got better as I went along. I learned a few tips, one go slow, as shown in the first photo. At the beginning of the cut (bottom) I was going slow and the cut was nice and clean and at the end (top) I was going faster and it didn't turn out as well. Number two, if the saw gets stuck or just doesn't want to glide very well, lift up on the front of the saw slightly because it is probably snagged on something.

 

Anyway I went ahead and put together the top piece, it will need some wood filler and some sanding but it doesn't look too bad. The nice thing is that the edges do not need to be perfect as the aluminum edging and vinyl wrap will cover up any small mistakes.

 

I ave also decided that I will be putting a piece of thick plexiglass in the top to allow viewing of the PC components.

 

Photos in spoiler

Spoiler

 

[Kevo05s]

Great idea man! 

just 2 things

-Have you considered fully liquid cooling your machines? (like both the PC and the Xbox One in the same loop with like 2 480mm rads on top? (or even just 2 360mm rads)?
it seems like a better thermal management solution since it will be all contained in a (relatively) small box...

-The Xbox one updates while it's in sleep/hibernate state, so it probably updated a lot more than you think...

 

Keep up the good work it's going great!

[Justin_]

8 minutes ago, Kevo05s said:

Great idea man! 

just 2 things

-Have you considered fully liquid cooling your machines? (like both the PC and the Xbox One in the same loop with like 2 480mm rads on top? (or even just 2 360mm rads)?
it seems like a better thermal management solution since it will be all contained in a (relatively) small box...

-The Xbox one updates while it's in sleep/hibernate state, so it probably updated a lot more than you think...

 

Keep up the good work it's going great!

1) I have thought about that, but watercooling can be very expensive and I believe that I can manage the heat with NF-F12 or similar high pressure 120mm fans, so unless EK wants to sponsor me (unlikely) I will probably be using an AIO for the CPU and just blower fans for everything else.

 

2) I have thought about this and I think I will keep the disk drive connected to the XBOX, but just not make it accessible because it is broken, but if I can't fix my XBOX and I need to get a new one (with a working disc drive) I will possibly rethink it.

[Kevo05s]

1 minute ago, Justin_ said:

1) I have thought about that, but watercooling can be very expensive and I believe that I can manage the heat with NF-F12 or similar high pressure 120mm fans, so unless EK wants to sponsor me (unlikely) I will probably be using an AIO for the CPU and just blower fans for everything else.

 

2) I have thought about this and I think I will keep the disk drive connected to the XBOX, but just not make it accessible because it is broken, but if I can't fix my XBOX and I need to get a new one (with a working disc drive) I will possibly rethink it.

1) Makes a lot of sense, just a suggestion for maybe in a year or 2 when the budget comes back up

 

2) Makes sense, are they still using sata cables like in the 360? if so you could always just extend it to the top or wherever you want to use it

 also if it's broken, you might as well get the slim one, and maybe those would work without the drive... (i dont know if they changed the architecture or not in the slim)

[Justin_]

8 minutes ago, Kevo05s said:

1) Makes a lot of sense, just a suggestion for maybe in a year or 2 when the budget comes back up

 

2) Makes sense, are they still using sata cables like in the 360? if so you could always just extend it to the top or wherever you want to use it

 also if it's broken, you might as well get the slim one, and maybe those would work without the drive... (i dont know if they changed the architecture or not in the slim)

1) that is definitely possible, I just looked it up and it looks like it would cost $400 minimum so it won't happen right away

 

2) Yeah they are still using SATA cable, but with the custom power cable, but it is possible to rewire it to make it longer, as for it being broken, I have a replacement part on the way, and if that doesn't fix it I will get the XBOX ONE S for its smaller size.

[Kevo05s]

1 minute ago, Justin_ said:

2) Yeah they are still using SATA cable, but with the custom power cable, but it is possible to rewire it to make it longer, as for it being broken, I have a replacement part on the way, and if that doesn't fix it I will get the XBOX ONE S for its smaller size.

Aren't you plugging it through a PC powersupply? while doing those wires, Im sure it is doable to do those too

but again, overall, awesome idea, and I can't wait to see the rest!

[Justin_]

The disk drive uses a custom cable internally to connect the drive to the motherboard (the yellow one in the photo), and if I get a new XBOX I might just use its PSU to avoid any issues as I do have the space, and I don't want to accidentally fry anything again.

[Justin_]

So the drive gets plugged into the motherboard and the motherboard gets plugged into the PC PSU.

[Justin_]

Ok so the replacement part that should up been here 2 days ago finally showed up (HUGE BOX), I put it in, plugged it in, and everything went up in smoke again. So fixing that XBOX is out, and because of that I am about to go to gamestop to get a new XBOX ONE S, I am going to get the space gray Battlefield 1 bundle and I am going to use the included PSU as it is much smaller, that way I don't need to try to rig something crazy that might kill it (unlikely, but possible).

 

One question should I go with the Battlefield 1 bundle with the space gray controller or the Tom Clancy The Division bundle with the normal controller???

 

Spoiler

 

 

[Justin_]

Ok so I went out and bought a new XBOX ONE S, the thing is that when I was there the the guy working there said that if you take apart and modify your xbox that Microsoft might brick your console because it voids the EULA. They wouldn't physically fry it that was me, but the reason that the system wouldn't turn on could of been because of Microsoft, I will need to do more looking into this.

 

[Justin_]

I have the new system hooked up and I am updating it now.

 

[Justin_]

Ok I need to take a minute and say that I am glad that I went with the Battlefield bundle, It is an AWESOME game!!

[Justin_]

Ok so I am doing some thinking and I think that I will just be using the XBOX in the state that it is in now, without disassembling it. That way I keep the warranty and avoid the possibility that Microsoft is brickign consoles because of people modifying their systems. I can still keep the overall theme of the build going, but this way I can be a bit on the safe side.

[Justin_]

So I decided not to open the XBOX ONE as it is small enough to fit in, this way I don't void the warranty and if there is any truth to what the guy at Gamestop is saying I don't need to worry about it. So to mount the XBOX I am using some fabric strapping like used in cargo hold downs. I screwed in one side, then started screwing in the other side at a point where the screw could just reach the wood, then I used the force of the screw to tighten it down, long story short it is not going anywhere any time soon.

 

I have also decided that even tho the disc drive will be accessible from the front I will be throwing something like a WD my passport 2TB HDD for extra space for games and things as I only bought the 500GB XBOX ONE S model.

 

[Justin_]

Just noticed, the XBOX ONE S doesn't have a connector for the Kinect sensor bar #donglelife2016 I guess that I am going to need to get the USB adapter  https://www.amazon.com/Xbox-Kinect-Adapter-One-Windows-10/dp/B01GVE4YB4/ref=sr_1_1?ie=UTF8&qid=1481599205&sr=8-1&keywords=xbox+one+kinect+sensor+usb+adapter

 

[Justin_]

Ok so I started the assembly level that will be holding the network switch, HDMI switch, IR duplicator and PC PSU, and then did a test fit of the 3 existing levels and everything is working very well! I also rigged 2 of the LTT limited edtion NF-F12 120mm fans and the 90mm fan that came with the UPS to roughley represent the airflow of the finnished project, when I am done it will be better because there will be 2-4 more fans and the intake will be sealed much better, but I think that this will work out just fine!

 

Open the spoiler for photos/videos

Spoiler

 

[Justin_]

Ok last update before I go to bed, but I took a SATA 4 way splitter and cut off the female end so that I can use it to connect +12V from the computer PSU to the IR signal duplicator and the network switch, then wired it into the Phoenix connector along with the barrel plug.

[Justin_]

Ok I am making this post a day after I uploaded the video to YouTube but here we go!

 

Basicley I now have a PSU (Corsair RM650X) that is what I will likeley be using, I have also rearranged the board with the router, HDMI switch, and IR duplicator to fit the PSU properly, I also was able to test the rig in the post above to power the router and IR duplicator. I also did a quick test of the battery backup just to make sure it is still functional. I also did some more thinking about how I am going to be powering the fans and how I will be routing the wires, basically all of the 120mm computer fans will be plugged into the motherboard to allow the computer to control them itself for optimal heating as it will be producing the most heat and be the last thing that gets cooled so it should be the hottest.

 

Also one thing that I did not mention in the video as I did not do do untill tonight is that I contacted a local shop that does custom vinyl wraps to see how much it would cost to get my system wrapped, I will update you when I get a response.

 

I am exhausted so sorry if my grammer sucks  goodnight

 

[Justin_]

Ok it is about 1 1/2 hr after the last post and I am more exhausted than I was there so, apologies in advance for possible horrible grammar.

 

Anyway, I was going to trace out everything that needs to be cut out on the rear cover but then I realised that I never cut it out. No problem I have more wood that I can cut it from, so I traced out the outline of the board then went to trace out the 2 120mm fans (at the bottom), the LCD for the UPS, the power cord and fuse reset for the UPS that I will be removing from the original backplate, and I also traced out the space for the XBOX ONE S that I will be getting a rounded bit for the router to make it a better space as it will be a large hole that I want to be nice, the fan holes will be kinda big, but I am going to be putting 120mm fan grills over them, I might round them also anyway though.

 

I have not traced the cutouts for the PC parts yet, I am going to wait to do that until I have the exact PC parts in my hands so that I can get the shape more exact.

 

Photos and videos in the spoiler to stop the horror from expanding to your scroll wheel (not as bad as others)

Spoiler

 

[Justin_]

Ok so I just made a Google Sheet listing the price of everything that I have purchased to date that I am using in the system and I will update it as I buy/use more items if you want to check it out at the link below. Please note that this is the price I paid for the items, not necessarily the price you can buy them for now case and point I spent $596.42US on the GTX 1070 STRIX, that is because I bought it near release when there was nowhere near enough cards to go around, thus supply and demand dictates that I will either not get it, or I will pay WAY too much for it.

 

Feel free to take a look at the running tally at https://docs.google.com/spreadsheets/d/19Tt7GbITeXCgKkuRxcKFGIZaySxv-bajSBjZWxTQ6O8/edit?usp=sharing

 

BTW the total cost so far is $1572.63US!

[Justin_]

Ok just an update I found out that if you owned an original XBOX ONE, a Kinect sensor for it, and have an XBOX ONE S (or at least get unused serial numbers for all 3) you can get a FREE adapter to make the Kinect work with the XBOX ONE S OR your Windows computer! THANK YOU MICROSOFT!!! This will helm me out because I can get the $40US adapter for free! I would like to just say again THANK YOU MICROSOFT!!! This is something that you didn't need to do but you did anyway because you (at least at this moment) care about your customer base! I would like to note that if you request an adapter it will take almost 1 hour for you to receive the conformation email, don't worry if it doesn't come right away.

 

Also if any of you have an XBOX ONE, XBOX ONE Kinect, and an XBOX ONE S and would like to get a free adapter go to 

https://support.microsoft.com/kinectadapter

 

[nofxz]

Nice progess on this. Just grind it out. Do you think you will be playing kinect games at a lan party?

[Justin_]

54 minutes ago, nofxz said:

Nice progess on this. Just grind it out. Do you think you will be playing kinect games at a lan party?

Likely not, but I will be using this at home too, not just at LAN parties, and I LOVE to use the XBOX voice commands, just walk into my place and say "XBOX ON" then "XBOX go to Netflix"

[Justin_]

Ok guys, first off the weather has gone bad, we have over 8" of snow outside so I was unable to cut the last board as of yet, I need to go over to my parents house and use their garage to finish it.

But

I did get a quote back from the place that I would take it to wrap, and for plain black 3M vinyl they quoted me $295, Ouch. But that is what I need to do so maybe I will throw in some extra hours at work. I do want this to look good as well as work good!

Also

The Kinect adapter has shipped and should be here next friday (12-23-2016) AGAIN THANK YOU MICROSOFT!!

[Justin_]

Ok so I filmed some more videos yesterday relating to the Kinect, the first being me figuring out that you can unplug the cable from the Kinect and on the Kinect side it is just a normal USB 3.0 B connector, so it dose use the USB standard, but it has a custom cable because it needs more power than what the USB standard allows. I also took a USB 2.0 A-B cable and plugged it into my laptop, and nothing happened. When I get the power adapter I will try plugging it in with the USB 3.0 B cable and see what happens.

 

The second video is me saying DON'T UNPLUG THE CABLE! you can not plug it back in without removing the latching mechanism that keeps it in so well. It still has the force of the USB port to hold it in and it will stay in, BUT it won't be near as strong. The only way to properly put it back together  is to tear apart the Kinect, void any warranty, and possibly break something.

 

Also, not mentioned in the video, I have again contacted the decal agency and I asking about what prep work I should do before I give it to them to wrap and I am planning o bringing it in sometime mid-end of January. It looks like I will be spending my $1000 budget without buying any computer parts, the need of the new XBOX isn't helping  and I am not counting the stuff I already had AKA GPU, UPS, USB add on card, HDMI capture card, networking switch, hdmi switch, IR Duplicator, and SATA power splitter.