Blender and Awesomebump PC build

[Rudolf_Rednose]

Is it something stupid like my old monitor from way back when is not recognised as one and that's why the bloody thing won't boot?

[stconquest]

3 hours ago, Rudolf_Rednose said:

Is it something stupid like my old monitor from way back when is not recognised as one and that's why the bloody thing won't boot?

Even if the PC was not hooked up to a monitor, it would still boot up and run normally. 

 

So...

 

You mentioned that it tries to start up for 30 seconds before it shuts down, then it restarts again.  Interesting.  I assume you don't see anything on the screen during this time.

 

First thing I will recommend is that at least one of the CPU cooler fans is hooked up to the White PWM (CPU_FAN) fan socket.  Don't use the splitter.  The second fan can go in any other 4-pin fan socket.  Sometimes the motherboards won't let the PC boot if the CPU_FAN socket is not occupied.

 

Second thing.  Make sure you have the power connector to the CPU power socket on the motherboard occupied.  Power from the PSU has to go to the 24-pin AND the 8-pin CPU socket.

Chances are, you just have something wrong.  Be patient.  I know you can figure it out.  So many wires. 

 

Note:  I don't think the power button has anything to do with the boot loop.

 

[stconquest]

Sorry, I was away all day yesterday.  My cousin bought a house last week and we spent the day ripping the insides out. 

 

Unfortunately I am going back today.  I will be back in about 6-8 hours. 

 

 

[Rudolf_Rednose]

Thanks, I have ripped everything off, except fot the 24, the 8 pin

the pw switch

the cpu fan in the cpu fan socket.

nothing else attatched to the mobo....

 

and still!

 

oh yes and only one ddr in slot 2.

[stconquest]

7 hours ago, Rudolf_Rednose said:

Thanks, I have ripped everything off, except fot the 24, the 8 pin

the pw switch

the cpu fan in the cpu fan socket.

nothing else attatched to the mobo....

 

and still!

 

oh yes and only one ddr in slot 2.

  If it is a hardware issue, my first guess would be that something is wrong with the power supply... maybe the CPU (CPU is unlikely, but it happens rarely). 

 

I have had bad RAM, but it did not loop, it was just a black screen with a blinking cursor.

 

Can you take a picture of your last test setup?  The motherboard and stuff.

[stconquest]

I feel bad that you are having trouble.  I understand the frustrations.  Most of the time builds go smoothly.  I wish it was this way for you.

 

A lot of the time new builders wire something improperly, that just takes time to figure out.  I hope this is the case with this build.  That means you can figure it out.  I will help to the best of my ability.

 

Sometimes (not often), people get bad hardware.  First we have to figure out if it is bad hardware by checking and double checking all the connections.  Then once you can determine that it has to be some component that is faulty, we have to figure out what part is bad.

 

Not the end of the world.  It is all fixable. 

[Rudolf_Rednose]

Took off the hearsink. Got definite forensic proof that that fingerprint was not mine. (I held the back of the CPU against my iPhone home button, and it did not respond, so........)

 

Cleaned it with 100% alcohol, put the heatsink back on, reasembled everything (Let's think outside the box, I thought.)

 

Noticed that when turning on the PSU the F Bios led flashes (see picture).

 

 

[stconquest]

1 hour ago, Rudolf_Rednose said:

Took off the hearsink. Got definite forensic proof that that fingerprint was not mine. (I held the back of the CPU against my iPhone home button, and it did not respond, so........)

 

Cleaned it with 100% alcohol, put the heatsink back on, reasembled everything (Let's think outside the box, I thought.)

 

Noticed that when turning on the PSU the F Bios led flashes (see picture).

 

Well, you keep your sense of humor so that is good. 

 

You assembled it outside the case so I assume you try to power it by shorting the power pins with a metal object (tip a screwdriver, etc..).

 

Leave the hard drive out for the test.  You don't even need the SSD to get into BIOS.

 

The Rundown (test before trying to figure out what piece of hardware is faulty):

 

Motherboard

 

1.  CPU (heat sink or not does not matter for this), use the heat sink if you want to mess around in the BIOS once you get there.  Just the one fan in the middle is fine.  Connect it to the white 4-Pin fan socket.

 

2.  RAM - A single stick.  Try each one separately.

 

3.  GPU

 

4.  SATA III to the SSD if you chose to use it.

 

 

Power Supply Connections

 

1.  24-pin to motherboard.

 

2.  8-pin to motherboard.

 

3.  Single 8-pin power to the GPU (PCI-E).

 

4.  SATA power to the SSD if you chose to use it.

 

 

GPU Connection

 

1.  Monitor

 

 

>>  Keyboard/mouse are not needed.  We just want something to happen on the monitor.

 

>> Try turning it on with the SSD connected and without. 

 

>>  The board has a feature called Q-Flash, or something.  You might be able to install a new bios without a functioning CPU.  If needed, this might be he next course of action.

 

I am looking at anything related to the F BIOS LED... reading...

 

[stconquest]

 

Note:   A bios flash requires an uninterrupted power source during the process (20 seconds or so).... hold your breath, pray or something.

 

From some guy in this thread:  http://forum.giga-byte.co.uk/index.php?topic=15981.0

 

Quote

 

So the issue you are having is most likely a factory installed defective Bios and to fix this is relatively simple.

all you need to do is first start by Removing all the ram off your motherboard. With another computer download the latest BIOS revision for your motherboard from gigabyte's website (you may have to unzip the file first), then rename that bios file GIGABYTE.BIN. Format a flash drive to fat32 (if it isn't already) and throw ONLY that file onto the flash drive. With the ram still off the motherboard and the computer off, stick in the flash drive with the Bios file on it into the White USB port, and turn the computer on. On the back of the motherboard you will see your flash drive (if it has a light) and an orange LED on the motherboard start flashing. Once you see the flashing stop and it becomes a solid, turn the computer back off (you may have to hold the power button for 10 seconds) remove the flash drive, and install only 1 stick of ram (for now) and then turn the computer back on from this point your computer should actually give you a display and should finally be working.

I work at a Microcenter, and had a customer come in with the same issue and spent an hour and a half trying to figure this out.

The Bios refused to actually install without having the RAM removed from the system. So that is key

Recap
1. Turn off the computer and remove all RAM DIMMS from the motherboard
2. Using another computer download the latest Bios from gigabyte's website for your motherboard
3. Rename the Bios file GIGABYTE.BIN and put it on a clean flash drive with no other files on it.
4. Put flash drive into the White USB port on the back of the motherboard, and turn the computer on
5. Wait for the flashing lights to stop (USB and Motherboard LED)
6. Turn off the system (May have to hold power button for 10 seconds)
7. Install only ONE RAM DIMM for now and turn the computer back on.
8. Enjoy your functional computer.

I really hope this helps you

Sincerely,
Some random Microcenter Employee
 

 

 

[Rudolf_Rednose]

Oh boy oh boy oh boy!

[Rudolf_Rednose]

Oh boy oh boy oh boy!

[Rudolf_Rednose]

Might give the webshop a call tomorrow.

Since they have a regular store too, maybe they can help me with this.

most parts are from there.

 

[Rudolf_Rednose]

But in the meantime I can google up on what others do with all that wasted space in that humongous case.

 

 

[Rudolf_Rednose]

But in the meantime I can google up on what others do with all that wasted space in that humongous case.

 

Mid-life is a very confusing stage in life.

 

[Rudolf_Rednose]

Been to the store, and they checked the CPU and the Mobo.

They were wondered why I got the wrong RAM,

so I could return it and got other that should the problem.

Partpicker dropped the ball here a couple of times.

 

[stconquest]

2 hours ago, Rudolf_Rednose said:

Been to the store, and they checked the CPU and the Mobo.

They were wondered why I got the wrong RAM,

so I could return it and got other that should the problem.

Partpicker dropped the ball here a couple of times.

 

The 4x8GB set of DDR4 3200MHz RAM is not wrong.  What RAM did you get?

[Rudolf_Rednose]

3 hours ago, stconquest said:

The 4x8GB set of DDR4 3200MHz RAM is not wrong.  What RAM did you get?

DDR4 32 GB 4 x 8192M G.skill Ripjaws V 3000 DIMM

 

They said the 3200 were not compatible with the Motherboard.

 

At least it solved the boot-loop straight away.

 

 

[stconquest]

6 hours ago, Rudolf_Rednose said:

DDR4 32 GB 4 x 8192M G.skill Ripjaws V 3000 DIMM

 

They said the 3200 were not compatible with the Motherboard.

 

At least it solved the boot-loop straight away.

 

 

Shit, I am afraid that is MY fault (partly).  I should make the effort to check the Memory Support List (QVL) on the motherboard website.  Although the 3200MHz is technically compatible... it might not work out of the box.

 

I am sorry I did that to you.

 

So... does the PC turn on now?

[Rudolf_Rednose]

But at least I got a free "crash course" in pc troubleshooting.

at least it runs now.

Will be checking out which monitor display to order next and install a wifi thingamagic.

Also will give the windows 10 a windows 7 style interface.

maybe I'll pop by a "hardware store" in Holland to get the wifi and a new keyboard. In Germany they only sell Quertz keyboards.

At Mindfactory they were very helpfull, but never heard of Partpickers.......(well the Germans might prefer something German there.......as in all things.)

Thanks for your help so far, and I'll keep you posted on how this thing develops.

 

 

[Rudolf_Rednose]

ok,  got it running.

How good remains to be seen when I hook up a decent screen.

What a beautiful case this is.

Do I seed to change anything in the bios? Now all fans are running all the time, although it is quite quiet.

 

[stconquest]

@Rudolf_Rednose  That looks gorgeous man.  Good job.

 

As far as bios is concerned:

 

1.  When you want to overclock the CPU/RAM.

 

2.  If you want to control fans connected to the motherboard, this is one place to attempt to do so.

 

3.  If something is not working.

 

The beauty of decent 140mm fans:  you can run them at 100% and they will be relatively quiet.  If you are hooked up to the Phantek PWM fan hub controller, you can change the speed of the fans (all at once, not individually) from within windows.  There are many ways to do this with many programs.

[Rudolf_Rednose]

Thanks,

 

cable management is a breeze in this wonderful case.

 

Got the CPU fans hooked up to CPU_Fan connector with a cable splitter that came with the Noctua cooler and the case fans to Fan_3.....(maybe that should be Fan_1?) and those run full speed. The cpu fans speed is not constant, so I guess they are controlled.

 

Noticed that the GPU fans have not turned yet, but then I haven't done anything exciting on this machine yet.

I might just go for a the ASUS PG279Q. Quite a truckload of money though.

Most I'll play will be Rise of Flight, I guess. Just wonder if you got a UI like Blender's on most of the time if it doesn't burn in your screen though.

 

[stconquest]

17 hours ago, Rudolf_Rednose said:

Thanks,

 

cable management is a breeze in this wonderful case.

 

Got the CPU fans hooked up to CPU_Fan connector with a cable splitter that came with the Noctua cooler and the case fans to Fan_3.....(maybe that should be Fan_1?) and those run full speed. The cpu fans speed is not constant, so I guess they are controlled.

 

Noticed that the GPU fans have not turned yet, but then I haven't done anything exciting on this machine yet.

I might just go for a the ASUS PG279Q. Quite a truckload of money though.

Most I'll play will be Rise of Flight, I guess. Just wonder if you got a UI like Blender's on most of the time if it doesn't burn in your screen though.

 

The CPU fans are on a "fan curve" set by default, this happens when connecting to that particular fan socket on the motherboard.  You can change the curve if you feel the need.

 

I would check to see if the splitters you are using are limiting the voltage to the fans.  Sometimes a splitter will drop the voltage of each connected fan from 12v to 5v, effectively causing the fan to run at 50%. 

 

I would not waste money on a 144Hz screen.  You have no real use for it.  You don't need GSync either.  Your main usage on the PC is professional.  I would either look at a 60Hz, IPS, 27"+ 2560x1440 screen, or 3250x2560

 

2560x1440 - $325:  http://pcpartpicker.com/product/YZn2FT/benq-monitor-gw2765ht

 

3440x1440 - $500:  http://pcpartpicker.com/product/FWDzK8/aoc-monitor-u3477pqu

 

3840x2160 (4K) - $550:  http://pcpartpicker.com/product/WJx9TW/acer-monitor-umjb6aa002

[Rudolf_Rednose]

 

Thing is now however that I don't trust the fans to work properly when stressed to the max.

The Phanteks Enthoo Evolv atx Tempered Glass edition case has a fan hub powered by a Sata cable, and a line in that I'm supposed to connect to the CPU_FAN connector on the motherboard.

My CPU cooler has two fans though with 4pin cables. The Fan hub has 3pin output connectors to the case fans and they want me to connect the CPU fans on it aswell.

A 4 pin cable to a 3 pin fan hub?

 

Now I've got the two cpu fans connected with a 4pin Y cable that came with the Noctua cooler connected to CPU_Fan on the motherboard and the 4pin input cable of the fan hub with all the case fans connected to it attatched to Syst_Fan 2 on the motherboard.

Is that to much for one connector to handle? Manual said that the SATA cable should not be attatched if you use another port than the CPU_FAN connector.

 

[stconquest]

6 minutes ago, Rudolf_Rednose said:

 

Thing is now however that I don't trust the fans to work properly when stressed to the max.

The Phanteks Enthoo Evolv atx Tempered Glass edition case has a fan hub powered by a Sata cable, and a line in that I'm supposed to connect to the CPU_FAN connector on the motherboard.

My CPU cooler has two fans though with 4pin cables. The Fan hub has 3pin output connectors to the case fans and they want me to connect the CPU fans on it aswell.

A 4 pin cable to a 3 pin fan hub?

 

Now I've got the two cpu fans connected with a 4pin Y cable that came with the Noctua cooler connected to CPU_Fan on the motherboard and the 4pin input cable of the fan hub with all the case fans connected to it attatched to Syst_Fan 2 on the motherboard.

Is that to much for one connector to handle? Manual said that the SATA cable should not be attatched if you use another port than the CPU_FAN connector.

 

I think you have it right.  I would not plug the hub into the CPU_FAN.  The cooler should be there.

 

The hub is powered separately, so the motherboard socket will not have to deal with extra voltage.

 

I have a family member that has the Phanteks Enthoo Pro, it has a hub too.  He has a problem with the rear exhaust fan not always spinning when it is connected to the hub... this is just a FYI.  He connected it straight to the motherboard.

 

Your motherboard has enough fan sockets for your fans... 4 total I think?  You can bypass the hub entirely should you see the need to.
 

A good little program to mess around with fan speeds and set fan curves is Speedfan.  It is simple and effective.  It has been around a long time.

 

http://www.almico.com/speedfan.php

 

I have a fan controller, so I only use speedfan for the CPU cooler fan.  I have it to display my CPU temp on the lower right all the time: