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Does brand matter and how much should I get? The room is 24x12, my side is 12x10 ( all in feet ) and a wall splits the room that I share with my cousin. The wall ( no door separating, can get a pic if needed, doesn't stop sound very well. Also, the room echoes a bit.

I want black or black/red or a very dark grey and red. 2x2 or 4x3 also? How do you hang it if I decide to get it. Also, I do not expect it to make whatever my cousin do near silent, just dampen it.

 

 

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Does brand matter and how much should I get? The room is 24x12, my side is 12x10 ( all in feet ) and a wall splits the room that I share with my cousin. The wall ( no door separating, can get a pic if needed, doesn't stop sound very well. Also, the room echoes a bit.

I want black or black/red or a very dark grey and red. 2x2 or 4x3 also? How do you hang it if I decide to get it. Also, I do not expect it to make whatever my cousin do near silent, just dampen it.

 

Try Foam factory they have some some pretty good stuff, you usually hang them with spray adhesive that is safe for foam, but if you want them to be very modular mounting them on thin ply and then to the wall makes it easy to remove and not a pain with foam bits or glue stuck on the wall:

http://www.thefoamfactory.com/acousticfoam/wedgefoam.html

 

http://www.thefoamfactory.com/acousticfoam/acousticfoam.html

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Wait a sec here... Your side is 12x10 out of the 24x12 room. Why's your cousin's side like an L-shape with that 2-foot sliver over to your side? 

 

Rugs and wall tapestry go a long way in dampening echoes. Try it out if you can source some from like parents or something. Even if you get the padding for the walls, you should definitely get a shaggy rug for the room too.

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10x12*** Also, what's a shaggy rug?

Wait a sec here... Your side is 12x10 out of the 24x12 room. Why's your cousin's side like an L-shape with that 2-foot sliver over to your side? 

 

Rugs and wall tapestry go a long way in dampening echoes. Try it out if you can source some from like parents or something. Even if you get the padding for the walls, you should definitely get a shaggy rug for the room too.

 

 

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10x12*** Also, what's a shaggy rug?

Those fluffy and soft floor mats that have a billion strings in them. My gandmom used to make them in a huge rug-making-rig. She'd tie each of those stings in a knot and cut them to length by hand. Like this but not this. It's Ikea ådum and it gets dirty and weird pretty easily and smells strange. 1/10 would not recommend. 

 

Edit: Turns out rug-making-rig is a loom. Live and learn.

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Basically one with really thick pile or carpet material like this:

shaggy-rug-thick-soft-warm-terracotta-bu

So went on Amazon, found this, http://www.amazon.com/2x12x12-CHARCOAL-Acoustic-Soundproofing-Studio/dp/B00ATP9Q2O/ref=sr_1_9?ie=UTF8&qid=1451714227&sr=8-9&keywords=sound+foam

Also don't think the shaggy rug will be needed, though will keep it in mind.

 

 

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Acoustical damping foam is not appropriate for sound isolation; such materials are inherently low mass and will not properly absorb sound waves. They're also relatively expensive per square foot.

 

Important soundproofing principles:

  • Air-gaps are bad: Sound propagates easily even through seemingly tiny gaps. The spaces around doors and even wall sockets can be responsible for a large percentage of the total sound penetration. Sealing these openings should be a top priority before taking further steps. Another consequence is that partial coverage with a sound-blocking material - such as placing a few squares of acoustic foam - will be very inefficient soundproofing.
  • High mass and density are good: High-density materials absorb sound waves most efficiently. This is why sound-proofing foam, egg cartons, etc, are not suitable for broadband sound isolation. Good materials heavy acoustic drapes, mass-loaded vinyl, and extra-thick drywall.
  • Mechanical decoupling is king: Nothing stops the propagation of a sound wave like an air gap. This is because solid material is a much better transmission medium for vibration than air. Sandwiching an air gap between two decoupled, high-mass layers is the best strategy for soundproofing. In practice, though, mechanical decoupling is the most difficult and expensive strategy.

Probably your best bet is to install a curtain runner all along the top edge of the adjoining wall and hang sound-proofing blackout drapes from it. Just keep in mind that if there is a significant open area through an attic crawlspace above your rooms, this may do little to help, as the sound will just jump over your improvised barrier.

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