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Disassembling my Blue Switch Mechanical Keyboard. Lots of pictures.

Since when is loud always a bad thing? i like how loud the blue switches are

 

usually people equate loud to bad especially in the office

 

 

 

i cant hear them over my fans lol

 

loud fans?

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usually people equate loud to bad especially in the office

 

 

 

 

loud fans?

yea

 

probably gonna gett noctuas for christmas

hmm

 

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Very cool to see inside. I have a membrane keyboard at the moment and to clean it I take the top off (the part with all the keys attached to it) and put it in the dishwasher on a cool wash. Comes out lovely and clean.

"Everybody wants a happy ending, right? But it doesn’t always roll that way." - TS

 

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  • 6 months later...

thanks for pulling it apart man, I wish more people would do this especially those who review professionally.

 

 

 

 

your descriptions are a bit vague and none of the non clicky switches themselves make noise.

they dont make noise? my browns make ALOT more noise than hp rubber dome

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they dont make noise? my browns make ALOT more noise than hp rubber dome

A the brown switch it self makes almost no noise. The noise you are hearing is likely the bottom side of keycap hitting the top of the switch housing or depending the the style of the keycap you actually bottoming out the switch mechanism. This is called bottoming out and is something you dont need to do as cherry switch actuate at roughly 50% of their travel. Being able to actuate the switch without having to press it completely down is one of the main selling points of mechanical switches. I suggest you stop bottoming out and the keyboard will make far less noise. The other option you have is to pick up some o-rings, Logitech's mechanical board actually ships with them on already. I recommend the ones from WASD keyboards.

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A the brown switch it self makes almost no noise. The noise you are hearing is likely the bottom side of keycap hitting the top of the switch housing or depending the the style of the keycap you actually bottoming out the switch mechanism. This is called bottoming out and is something you dont need to do as cherry switch actuate at roughly 50% of their travel. Being able to actuate the switch without having to press it completely down is one of the main selling points of mechanical switches. I suggest you stop bottoming out and the keyboard will make far less noise. The other option you have is to pick up some o-rings, Logitech's mechanical board actually ships with them on already. I recommend the ones from WASD keyboards.

o rings are bad, they make it so its just linear like reds or blacks. also, im not going to go out of my way to make it sound quieter by typing alot slower. its a fact like rubber domes are way quieter than any mechanical

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o rings are bad, they make it so its just linear like reds or blacks. also, im not going to go out of my way to make it sound quieter by typing alot slower. its a fact like rubber domes are way quieter than any mechanical

Orings do not make a tactile cherry switch linear, I dont know where you heard that but its completely wrong. I have them on most of my keyboards and vary them in thickness in relation to they type of keycap set that is on the board. Also browns are virtually linear as it compared too other tactile cherry switches especially when typing at speed. Not bottom out will actually result in typing faster as your not moving the switch as far. This is actually why many people initially type faster on a laptop keyboard than their brand new mechanical. I have cherry mx boards that are as quite or quieter than many if not most membrane boards. Just because a keyboard is mechanical doesnt mean its loud. Also cherry mx switch based boards are by no means the only mechanical keybords there are quite a few alternative some quieter and some louder.

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Orings do not make a tactile cherry switch linear, I dont know where you heard that but its completely wrong. I have them on most of my keyboards and vary them in thickness in relation to they type of keycap set that is on the board. Also browns are virtually linear as it compared too other tactile cherry switches especially when typing at speed. Not bottom out will actually result in typing faster as your not moving the switch as far. This is actually why many people initially type faster on a laptop keyboard than their brand new mechanical. I have cherry mx boards that are as quite or quieter than many if not most membrane boards. Just because a keyboard is mechanical doesnt mean its loud. Also cherry mx switch based boards are by no means the only mechanical keybords there are quite a few alternative some quieter and some louder.

yes it does i put it on and theres no bump it just goes all the way down. and i doubt slowing down to purposely not bottom out will make me type faster, i already get about 112wpm.

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it's impossible that going 2mm is slower than going 4mm

 

the reason you're saying that is IS is because you don't want to adjust your typing force.

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yes it does i put it on and theres no bump it just goes all the way down. and i doubt slowing down to purposely not bottom out will make me type faster, i already get about 112wpm.

I dont know how our where you put the orings but I have used multiple different sizes and materials and that NEVER happens. yes you will slow down initially, thats what kinda happens when your learning something new. But once your used to it youll be quieter and faster.

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I dont know how our where you put the orings but I have used multiple different sizes and materials and that NEVER happens. yes you will slow down initially, thats what kinda happens when your learning something new. But once your used to it youll be quieter and faster.

i got 4 o rings from max keyboard switch sampler, when u put the o rings under the keycap and type with the o ring on it makes it fully linear with no tactile bump

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i got 4 o rings from max keyboard switch sampler, when u put the o rings under the keycap and type with the o ring on it makes it fully linear with no tactile bump

Ok you have browns which already barley have a tactile bump but ill ask how thick are the orings? As if I remember correctly there were some people that purposely made some extra to cut down travel just enough to actuate the switch. This is not that kind I condone or use as it ruins the feel of the switch. The ones I use barely effect the travel at all and just make it so that when/if you bottom out it softer a quieter.

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Ok you have browns which already barley have a tactile bump but ill ask how thick are the orings? As if I remember correctly there were some people that purposely made some extra to cut down travel just enough to actuate the switch. This is not that kind I condone or use as it ruins the feel of the switch. The ones I use barely effect the travel at all and just make it so that when/if you bottom out it softer a quieter.

idk how thick they are i can fit 3 of them in a keycap, u can look up the max keyboard  sampler on youtube to see it probably. all the o rings do is just the travel down while making it linear, makes it feel mushy

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you just hammer your keys very hard.  no mystery there; the more force you press down, the weaker the bump.  you're pressing down hard enough that the bump = 0.  happens all the time.

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you just hammer your keys very hard.  no mystery there; the more force you press down, the weaker the bump.  you're pressing down hard enough that the bump = 0.  happens all the time.

Lol.

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idk how thick they are i can fit 3 of them in a keycap, u can look up the max keyboard  sampler on youtube to see it probably. all the o rings do is just the travel down while making it linear, makes it feel mushy

If they are these ones http://goo.gl/M8azRH they seem to be like the Nitrile 50A ones that WASD Keyboards original started out with. They seem to be the correct thickness and that hardness should be pretty hard actually with just a very slight amount of give. WASD later went to EPDM for durability and 40A to soften the landing just a touch more since that is the most jarring thing when typing. Later he added a thinner oring to be used with cherry caps since they are shorter than OEM ones but some people use those on OEM as well but they dont work as well on them. Th only oother thing I can think of is that you migh have them installed like maxkeyboards picture which is incorrect, take a look at WASD keyboards page http://goo.gl/FLhKRt . So the oring might have been slowly working its way down to where it should be. Otherwise I dont know what to tell you I only know from my, my friends, and countless others on the internet experiences.

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