Half water/half air question

[Lays]

I have an external 1080MM radiator on my dresser next to me that I run my loop on, for the winter time I was planning on changing the fluid and adding some glycol/antifreeze type of liquid to prevent freezing, then putting it outside my window (it's only about 10 feet away from my PC, so I'd just need a bit more tubing)

 

 

I remembered that there's flexible duct material that people use in construction / buildings, and wouldn't it be easier just to run some of that from my window to my radiator?  I could simply put a fan in my window, and seal the ducting to the fan, then seal the other part onto the radiator. ( some simple tape and some plastic would probably be fine)

 

That would give me way better control over temperatures to make sure things don't freeze, or go below dew point.  I could use it whilst benchmarking to get desired temps, then just simply pick it up and fold it back up and put it away.

 

 

Should I just do that instead? I think it'd be cheaper as well, because an 8 foot thing of ducting is only $10 at home depot.  I don't have much convenience putting it outside, I obviously can't leave it outside the window 24/7 during the winter, so I think this is a more logical solution.

 

 

This is what I'm talking about BTW:

 

[Wombo]

Going below ambient will always cause some amount of condensation to form. I mean sure this could work, but you would have to worry about your tubing and water blocks getting covered in condensation and possible causing some shorts.

 

I've honestly thought about some thing like this myself, but I just don't see it being practical sadly.

[Lays]

Going below ambient will always cause some amount of condensation to form. I mean sure this could work, but you would have to worry about your tubing and water blocks getting covered in condensation and possible causing some shorts.

 

I've honestly thought about some thing like this myself, but I just don't see it being practical sadly.

 

 

Apparently as long as the liquid stays above dew point it's OK, I have some thermal sensors I can use to monitor temps of that so it should be OK.

 

I was thinking with the ducting, atleast I can remove the ducting when I get to desired temp level, to make sure I keep temps in check.

[moderategamer]

Apparently as long as the liquid stays above dew point it's OK, I have some thermal sensors I can use to monitor temps of that so it should be OK.

I was thinking with the ducting, atleast I can remove the ducting when I get to desired temp level, to make sure I keep temps in check.

Why do you want to do this though does your system not already run cool enough?

[Lays]

Why do you want to do this though does your system not already run cool enough?

 

Colder temps = more overclocks :]

[moderategamer]

Colder temps = more overclocks :]

Yeah but your not really going to get that much of a noticeable difference doing this. I mean just look at all the trouble linus went through to do this and he got like a 1 degree drop in temperature. Your loop should be plenty sufficient to do a decent OC.

[Lays]

Yeah but your not really going to get that much of a noticeable difference doing this. I mean just look at all the trouble linus went through to do this and he got like a 1 degree drop in temperature. Your loop should be plenty sufficient to do a decent OC.

 

 

I don't think you quite grasp the concept of what I was describing in the thread.

 

What Linus did and what I'm doing is 2 completely different things.

 

~ 0c air would be coming from outside, directly into the radiator, my load temps are roughly 8-10c above air temp that goes into my radiator, load temps would be in the ~10c range.  It definitely wouldn't be a 1 degree drop in temperature.

 

Also, maxwell likes to be cold, once you get below 25c load temps it starts to OC better. 

[Tim Drake]

Yeah but your not really going to get that much of a noticeable difference doing this. I mean just look at all the trouble linus went through to do this and he got like a 1 degree drop in temperature. Your loop should be plenty sufficient to do a decent OC.

Every difference is a huge difference for extreme overclockers lmao

[0ld_Chicken]

I have an external 1080MM radiator on my dresser next to me that I run my loop on, for the winter time I was planning on changing the fluid and

Snip

Should I just do that instead? I think it'd be cheaper as well, because an 8 foot thing of ducting is only $10 at home depot. I don't have much convenience putting it outside, I obviously can't leave it outside the window 24/7 during the winter, so I think this is a more logical solution.

I think that'd be sweet, i would attach the window side of the duct over a fan cut into to a flat surface about the width of the window so you could close the window on it and only have air coming in the duct (you probably already thought of that). You could probably loop the other side of the radiator to a fan pulling back out the window depending on how long you wanted to run it without freezing the room you are in. Id be interested to see this happen!

[Lays]

I think that'd be sweet, i would attach the window side of the duct over a fan cut into to a flat surface about the width of the window so you could close the window on it and only have air coming in the duct (you probably already thought of that). You could probably loop the other side of the radiator to a fan pulling back out the window depending on how long you wanted to run it without freezing the room you are in. Id be interested to see this happen!

 

 

I actually have one of these I could use, then just seal the duct onto 1 or both of the fans:

 

It actually has a feature that one fan can intake and the other can exhaust, but I don't mind the room getting really cold so it's actually OK with me lol

 

[OddsCrazyStuff]

If you want low tempratues, so would I rather get a chiller, like this one: http://koolance.com/exc-800-portable-800W-recirculating-chiller

Plus a heat exchanger, as pc liquids dont always work with it: http://koolance.com/hxp-193-compact-plate-heat-exchanger

 

That way so can you keep the tempratues low all year around, regardless of weather.

[Lays]

If you want low tempratues, so would I rather get a chiller, like this one: http://koolance.com/exc-800-portable-800W-recirculating-chiller

Plus a heat exchanger, as pc liquids dont always work with it: http://koolance.com/hxp-193-compact-plate-heat-exchanger

 

That way so can you keep the tempratues low all year around, regardless of weather.

 

 

>spending $10-$30 on ducting vs spending 1500$ on a water chiller

 

._.

 

If I had the money to blow on a water chiller I'd just buy Ln2 pots and do that instead lol

[OddsCrazyStuff]

>spending $10-$30 on ducting vs spending 1500$ on a water chiller

 

._.

Chiller gives perfect controll over temprature, while ducting depends on the weather.

Since you are doing it to overclock, so would I choose the option that gives the most controll over the tempratures.

[Lays]

Chiller gives perfect controll over temprature, while ducting depends on the weather.

Since you are doing it to overclock, so would I choose the option that gives the most controll over the tempratures.

 

editted my post.

 

It's not for 24/7 use, only for benchmarking sessions.

[0ld_Chicken]

I actually have one of these I could use, then just seal the duct onto 1 or both of the fans:

It actually has a feature that one fan can intake and the other can exhaust, but I don't mind the room getting really cold so it's actually OK with me lol

Snip

Nailed it! Might get more airflow with both running for you but i always liked benchmarking in the cold. Makes me feel hardcore haha (gf thinks I'm crazy)

[Lays]

Nailed it! Might get more airflow with both running for you but i always liked benchmarking in the cold. Makes me feel hardcore haha (gf thinks I'm crazy)

 

I just need to figure out how to get kingpin's classified XOC bios to work on my GPU now  (it's supposed to help with scaling better with voltage on air/water, as well as being slightly more efficient and giving a bit higher scores)  The guys with 2988 cards & that BIOS are hitting over 1700 mhz firestrike stable on chilled water  :wub:  :wub:

 

It's for the 2988 SKU of classified cards, and I have the 3988 SKU  I can get it to work... sort of, but it's super buggy.  I been talking to him & a few of the people that engineer the classified/kingpin cards & BIOS's, but they respond really slow since they're always busy.

[OddsCrazyStuff]

It's not for 24/7 use, only for benchmarking sessions.

http://mayhems.co.uk/mayhems/index.php/products/normal-coolants/mayhems-xt-1

Thats the long term anti freeze taken care of.

 

And sure, it should work to add cold air to the system for boosts now and then.

Just make sure you take house heating and such into the mix, as I dont think the pc will heat up the air enough.

[W-L]

That would work but if you have winters like we do in Canada the flexible hose in the photo atleast will start to condensate since it's non-insulated not to mention the rad having ice build up since it's essentially acting as a heat exchanger. If you want to give it a go it shouldn't harm anything it'd be interesting none the less to see how things work out.