Phase Change!

[TheCrushinator]

Hello everyone new to the site, not to the scene. So...

I am an old school PC tech, I once had a water-cooled Athlon 1 GHz, old school, we used to use silver epoxy to short resisters near the die. That was the only way to change the multiplayer. I say this only to show where I'm coming from. I know what I'm doing, I look at my delta T.

So here's the plan budget allowing. I want to build a cascade chiller If I can, but whats more likely to happen is I'm going to build a custom Phase/Peltier setup.

I am going to build the refrigerator setup from scratch. It will cost more initially, however hand selecting my parts will prove to save me in the long run. Compressors aren't meant to run for days at a time, a refrigerator cycle is only like 20 mins every hour and a half. At first this problem led me to building a chiller, and circulating glycol. This way the compressor has time to rest and cool off.

Now I've decided to just go straight up, and Ill leave my current PC running 24/7 for non "extreme" computer needs.

I am going to use a larger scroll type compressor. Which if you not familiar with the technology is a smoother circular motion, as compared to a normal comp. reciprocating motion like a car. This makes for a smoother quieter operation. You see these in household HVAC units outside, and in nicer A/C window units. A Danfoss, or Copeland.

https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Scroll_compressor

Then I plan on using a rather larger evaporator than a usual set up for multiple reasons. The first is obviously to get better temps, but also to generally take stress off the system for long multi day runs. Like rendering. So think like 20'' by 8'' or there about. Maybe just overkill if I go with a cascade.

 http://www.lytrondirect.com/6340-copper-tube-fin-heat-exchanger/6340/

 

http://www.lytrondirect.com/6220g1-copper-tube-fin-heat-exchanger/6220g1/

 

In building my own setup I can focous on all the little details, instead of the tiny five dollar line drier in an A/C unit I will use a larger drier meant for a large walk-in freezer in a restaurant. A dryer keeps moisture out of your system and coolant, as it will freeze and block the pipes in your loop.

The ultimate goal here is Cryogenic temps!

With a standard Phase change setup I can expect temps of like negative 40 or 50 Celsius without a load, with a large wattage peltier say 250 watts I can further expect a 80 to 100 C drop. I'm talking -150C or there about!

The other option Is a cascade refrigeration setup. The Idea here is basically to take the low temps of your first refrigerated loop, and to further cool them by running a separate loop. I'm explaining this badly picture two refrigerators and one cools itself from the cold end product of the other.

So one evaporator is negative 40C and the second further cools too -120C or so. The down side Is having two or sometimes three compressors, twice the power, twice the noise, ect.

So both achieve cryo extremely low temps, but at great energy cost, and noise.

I plan on buying two standard 4 unit server cases, I'm going to put the Motherboard and whatnot in the top case, and the compressors fans pumps and whatnot in the bottom server case. I will rivet them together, and put in a 20 unit server rack, that has doors and panels to reduce the noise, and keep air moving efficently.

 

Ok, I'm rambling, I'm here to ask everyone about there thoughts on mineral oil....???

I want to build an acrylic, plexi box. Like a sideways aquarium. I'm going to place only the mother board video and ram in ab box, within the server atx case.

I want to do this to mitigate condensation, instead of sealing everything, neoprene, and electrolytic grease, and the worrying about the Northbridge, and the regulator, and the back of the motherboard, and on and on.

I just think it will be easier to deal with If I just simply remove the atmosphere all together.

So I know that the oil does not effect physical connections on the mainboard? right?

I mean I know that it doesn't but I need affirmation.

Like I hear you're supposed to fill the entire socket under the CPU with dielectric grease, this does not affect the physical electrical conductivity in the LGA, pin contacts?

I see questions on other boards about mineral oil PCs and people say "what about upgrades?" And the question is always answered "It's a little messy, but it's no big deal"

 

SO WHAT I AM ASKING IS WILL THE OIL AFFECT PIN CONTACTS ON THE MOTHERBOARD?

If the mainboard is under oil, can I plug in a DIMM, submerged?

If the rig is under oil, I can plug a new video card straight up right? I don't have to clean the oil out of the socket first?

The physical pressure of the pins in the socket is enough to push the oil out and make a good contact right?

 

Thanks guys in advance.

This is a work in progress the only thing holding me back is cash right now. Feel free to ask me anything about this, I've made a lot of cool contacts, and I have learned a lot. There's a guy in Germany that can make custom copper evaporators for your CPU, I've seen sideways mounted GPU evaps. All kinds of great stuff.

I even have a lot of info about getting R134a, and a lot of other "exotic" refrigerants needed for a cascade setup (without proper licensing), and a lot of resources about finding the right Peltier for your expected loads and what not.

Thanks again

I should have posted this in the new build blog, but I can't figure out how to move it  :wacko:

[Guest]

http://ldcooling.com/shop/ld-pc-v10-115v-usa/234-ld-pc-v10-115v-usa-phase-change-white.html 

FUCK IT I'm DONE

walks out 

could you not just ghetto a refrigerator into the case? but Jesus christ man, Good luck

[0ld_Chicken]

Snip:

nice! Im very interested to see how this works out. Im a hvac technician so pc phase change systems make me hot or cool, I'm not sure. I don't know if oversizing a filter drier would have any negative side effects but I'm afraid it might. As long as you seal and vacuum the system properly there is no need for additional filter drier capacity. (Although definitely better to go slightly over than under since it is a custom system). I'm on lunch but I'll give your post a better read when i get home. Look forward to seeing this come together! If you do get working on it will you please do some sort of build log?

[Xylus60]

I see the sign above stating:

 

"This thread is quite old. Please consider starting a new thread rather than reviving this one." 

 

Yes, the last comment made to this brief thread was over 7 months ago.  That would be a long time if this were chat.  But 7 months not too long considering the scope of the project the OP was proposing to embark on.  If he is working on it as he planned, that would explain why he hasn't commented here since his original post.  On the other hand, maybe his post was just a flight of fancy and he never did do anything with the idea, I don't know.  But if that is not the case, and if you happen to get the time to check for replies to your posts, please followup here.  Tell us what progress you've made.  I want to encourage you because your idea seemed pretty good to me. I was particularly intrigued by your talk of directing highly dehydrated air through your computer to reduce the chances of any condensation forming as a result of the supercool, "cryogenic, temperatures you're shooting for.  All a lot of work, sure!  But if you happen to have the vigor and patience it takes to do that work, then no problem, I say.  God only knows, I certainly don't have the productive vigor in health I always wished I could have-- I tell ya the projects I would do if only I had the drive and physical stamina to go beyond mere inspiration to all the necessary "perspiration" to finally make something that provides a sense of self expression in novel personal accomplishment.

[FilipSebik]

This is it

https://www.kingpincooling.com/forum/showthread.php?t=490