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Delidding pastes

I am looking to delid, was told to use CoolLabratory Liquid Ultra, then told to use Gelid Extreme, but has anyone done this with some of the more readily available pastes? Something like arctic silver or the like?

Motherboard: MSI G45 | CPU: Intel i7 4790K | RAM: 16GB G.Skill DDR3 | SSD: 2x Samsung 840 Evo 256GB | Graphics: EVGA GTX 1080 FTW | PSU: Corsair HX650W | Cooler: Cooler Master Hyper 212 Evo | Fans: 6x Corsair SP120's | Case: NZXT H440 Razer Edition | OS: Windows 10

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I have used both Artic cooling MX-4 and Noctua NT-H1 and they worked pretty well for me.

[ Rig: CPU: 4930K, GPU: EVGA 780TI SC x2, RAM: 32GB Corsair Vengeance 1600MHz, Mobo: ASUS P9 X79 LE, Storage: 120GB Samsung EVO + 2TB Seagate Barracuda, PSU: Corsair RM1000 ]

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hold up a second

 

do you have enough money to buy another processor?

 

IF:

yes, continue

no, no

I have an Ivy Bridge CPU, if you now anything about them you know they have terribad TIM between the die and IHS, and delidding is pretty routine with them.

 

I have used both Artic cooling MX-4 and Noctua NT-H1 and they worked pretty well for me.

What was your temp difference approximately?

Motherboard: MSI G45 | CPU: Intel i7 4790K | RAM: 16GB G.Skill DDR3 | SSD: 2x Samsung 840 Evo 256GB | Graphics: EVGA GTX 1080 FTW | PSU: Corsair HX650W | Cooler: Cooler Master Hyper 212 Evo | Fans: 6x Corsair SP120's | Case: NZXT H440 Razer Edition | OS: Windows 10

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Are you going to solder for better conductivity or just re-apply thermal paste?

I wouldn't even know where to begin for soldering, I mean I do have solder just not likely the right stuff, so will most likely just reapply the paste.

 

my point still stands. if you don't have enough money to replace a cpu, don't de-lid it. literally rule #1

That's a pretty poor point, if you monitor your temperatures, you shouldn't ever destroy a chip, unless you mean physically destroy in which case again, be smart about it and take the time to do it right and it isn't an issue.

Motherboard: MSI G45 | CPU: Intel i7 4790K | RAM: 16GB G.Skill DDR3 | SSD: 2x Samsung 840 Evo 256GB | Graphics: EVGA GTX 1080 FTW | PSU: Corsair HX650W | Cooler: Cooler Master Hyper 212 Evo | Fans: 6x Corsair SP120's | Case: NZXT H440 Razer Edition | OS: Windows 10

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That's a pretty poor point, if you monitor your temperatures, you shouldn't ever destroy a chip, unless you mean physically destroy in which case again, be smart about it and take the time to do it right and it isn't an issue.

He is right you know, It is extremely easy to destroy your pcb in the lid removing process.

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I delided my intel 3570k. I would use the geild as the coollab is conductive. I have used the booth and the coolab gives best temps, but the difference is not big at all. 

 

You want to use these kind of blades for cutting: https://static.byggmax.com/media/!Item!30624!productImage!0_30624.jpg/large/Blad.jpg

 

Blades on cutting knifes for wall coverings is not thin enough.

 

I would not reccomend this type of blade: http://arslanenginery.com/wp-content/uploads/2015/05/arslan-Razor-Blade-psd49845.png

 

This is the best kind: http://www.homedepot.ca/product/single-edge-razor-blades-10-pack/972574

 

Be careful and not cut too deep under the ihs, you might hit the prosessors top.

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I wouldn't even know where to begin for soldering, I mean I do have solder just not likely the right stuff, so will most likely just reapply the paste.

 

That's a pretty poor point, if you monitor your temperatures, you shouldn't ever destroy a chip, unless you mean physically destroy in which case again, be smart about it and take the time to do it right and it isn't an issue.

 

Actually it pretty valid, deliding a cpu isn't easy and runs the risk of destroying the cpu in the process.  If you can't afford to buy a new cpu in case you do fail, then you shouldn't delid it.

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Last time I looked the thread wasn't "should I delid" it's "what paste do I use?" I know the risk, I have done the research, just because you guys may be too inept to handle doing it, doesn't make me, so carry on rather than adding useless replies that are off topic.

 

one sneeze and, oop, bye bye processor

 

 

Actually it pretty valid, deliding a cpu isn't easy and runs the risk of destroying the cpu in the process.  If you can't afford to buy a new cpu in case you do fail, then you shouldn't delid it.

Motherboard: MSI G45 | CPU: Intel i7 4790K | RAM: 16GB G.Skill DDR3 | SSD: 2x Samsung 840 Evo 256GB | Graphics: EVGA GTX 1080 FTW | PSU: Corsair HX650W | Cooler: Cooler Master Hyper 212 Evo | Fans: 6x Corsair SP120's | Case: NZXT H440 Razer Edition | OS: Windows 10

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I delided my intel 3570k. I would use the geild as the coollab is conductive. I have used the booth and the coolab gives best temps, but the difference is not big at all. 

 

You want to use these kind of blades for cutting: https://static.byggmax.com/media/!Item!30624!productImage!0_30624.jpg/large/Blad.jpg

 

Blades on cutting knifes for wall coverings is not thin enough.

 

I would not reccomend this type of blade: http://arslanenginery.com/wp-content/uploads/2015/05/arslan-Razor-Blade-psd49845.png

 

This is the best kind: http://www.homedepot.ca/product/single-edge-razor-blades-10-pack/972574

 

Be careful and not cut too deep under the ihs, you might hit the prosessors top.

I don't really wanna do the razor method, the traces are too close to surface for my liking. Much rather use the block method or vice method.

Motherboard: MSI G45 | CPU: Intel i7 4790K | RAM: 16GB G.Skill DDR3 | SSD: 2x Samsung 840 Evo 256GB | Graphics: EVGA GTX 1080 FTW | PSU: Corsair HX650W | Cooler: Cooler Master Hyper 212 Evo | Fans: 6x Corsair SP120's | Case: NZXT H440 Razer Edition | OS: Windows 10

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As you can see in this pic, you have to be very carefull not cutting the left part of the pcb, I cut mine and the iGPU stopped working as it should. Sold the chip for some shitty price with the motherboard. 

puh2v.jpg

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oops, my bad, sorry for wishing to impart some harmless advice on something i've previously done both right and wrong

 

EDIT: i hope you sneeze and kill it

Again I never asked for advice on whether or not I should I already did the research, I know what the risks are, I wouldn't just jump into it without looking into it at all.

 

It's unfortunate that you can't read well enough to understand this part.

Motherboard: MSI G45 | CPU: Intel i7 4790K | RAM: 16GB G.Skill DDR3 | SSD: 2x Samsung 840 Evo 256GB | Graphics: EVGA GTX 1080 FTW | PSU: Corsair HX650W | Cooler: Cooler Master Hyper 212 Evo | Fans: 6x Corsair SP120's | Case: NZXT H440 Razer Edition | OS: Windows 10

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As you can see in this pic, you have to be very carefull not cutting the left part of the pcb, I cut mine and the iGPU stopped working as it should. Sold the chip for some shitty price with the motherboard. 

puh2v.jpg

This is why I don't wanna use the razor method hahaha, hammer and block method or the vice method seems much less risky at breaking it than this.

Motherboard: MSI G45 | CPU: Intel i7 4790K | RAM: 16GB G.Skill DDR3 | SSD: 2x Samsung 840 Evo 256GB | Graphics: EVGA GTX 1080 FTW | PSU: Corsair HX650W | Cooler: Cooler Master Hyper 212 Evo | Fans: 6x Corsair SP120's | Case: NZXT H440 Razer Edition | OS: Windows 10

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qualified pilot.

 

/discussion

Means you can fly, not read.

 

/discussion 

Motherboard: MSI G45 | CPU: Intel i7 4790K | RAM: 16GB G.Skill DDR3 | SSD: 2x Samsung 840 Evo 256GB | Graphics: EVGA GTX 1080 FTW | PSU: Corsair HX650W | Cooler: Cooler Master Hyper 212 Evo | Fans: 6x Corsair SP120's | Case: NZXT H440 Razer Edition | OS: Windows 10

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If you use coolLab you have to isolate the caps on top of the cpu, geild should be non conductive:

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I am looking to delid, was told to use CoolLabratory Liquid Ultra, then told to use Gelid Extreme, but has anyone done this with some of the more readily available pastes? Something like arctic silver or the like?

you said you couldn't find clu so i said that gelid extreme would be good and safer. you really don't need to make multiple threads about it. 

Rig Specs:

AMD Threadripper 5990WX@4.8Ghz

Asus Zenith III Extreme

Asrock OC Formula 7970XTX Quadfire

G.Skill Ripheartout X OC 7000Mhz C28 DDR5 4X16GB  

Super Flower Power Leadex 2000W Psu's X2

Harrynowl's 775/771 OC and mod guide: http://linustechtips.com/main/topic/232325-lga775-core2duo-core2quad-overclocking-guide/ http://linustechtips.com/main/topic/365998-mod-lga771-to-lga775-cpu-modification-tutorial/

ProKoN haswell/DC OC guide: http://linustechtips.com/main/topic/41234-intel-haswell-4670k-4770k-overclocking-guide/

 

"desperate for just a bit more money to watercool, the titan x would be thankful" Carter -2016

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you said you couldn't find clu so i said that gelid extreme would be good and safer. you really don't need to make multiple threads about it.

One persons opinion isn't going to convince me, I guess I named the thread poorly but options are nice and if I can find it locally even better.

Hate to tell you but the world doesn't revolve around only your opinion.

Motherboard: MSI G45 | CPU: Intel i7 4790K | RAM: 16GB G.Skill DDR3 | SSD: 2x Samsung 840 Evo 256GB | Graphics: EVGA GTX 1080 FTW | PSU: Corsair HX650W | Cooler: Cooler Master Hyper 212 Evo | Fans: 6x Corsair SP120's | Case: NZXT H440 Razer Edition | OS: Windows 10

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If you use coolLab you have to isolate the caps on top of the cpu, geild should be non conductive:

Exactly this, I am thinking that mine looks much like this inside, and I will likely use this method over razor just because of the simplicity and how much safer it is.

Motherboard: MSI G45 | CPU: Intel i7 4790K | RAM: 16GB G.Skill DDR3 | SSD: 2x Samsung 840 Evo 256GB | Graphics: EVGA GTX 1080 FTW | PSU: Corsair HX650W | Cooler: Cooler Master Hyper 212 Evo | Fans: 6x Corsair SP120's | Case: NZXT H440 Razer Edition | OS: Windows 10

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I've been thinking about delidding too. And I also have a question. (Sorry if it's a stupid question)

 

Can I use epoxy to glue the IHS back on the CPU?

Case Phanteks Enthoo Evolv ITX | Motherboard Asus ROG Strix Z270i | CPU Intel i7-7700K | RAM Team Vulcan 16GB DDR4 | GPU Geforce GTX 1080 Ti | Storage Crucial MX300 1TB M.2 | PSU Corsair RM750x

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I've been thinking about delidding too. And I also have a question. (Sorry if it's a stupid question)

 

Can I use epoxy to glue the IHS back on the CPU?

From what I gather most people tend to apply the paste, then just plop the cpu into the socket, drop the IHS on top and let the arm on the socket hold it in place.

Motherboard: MSI G45 | CPU: Intel i7 4790K | RAM: 16GB G.Skill DDR3 | SSD: 2x Samsung 840 Evo 256GB | Graphics: EVGA GTX 1080 FTW | PSU: Corsair HX650W | Cooler: Cooler Master Hyper 212 Evo | Fans: 6x Corsair SP120's | Case: NZXT H440 Razer Edition | OS: Windows 10

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I've been thinking about delidding too. And I also have a question. (Sorry if it's a stupid question)

 

Can I use epoxy to glue the IHS back on the CPU?

Depens on what kind, if it's flexible enough 25% + and non conductive you should be fine. But if you use epoxy you will probably never get the ihs back off  ;)

 

The Epoxy must also not melt at 100 Celcius, shouldn't melt at before 150-200+

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I've been thinking about delidding too. And I also have a question. (Sorry if it's a stupid question)

 

Can I use epoxy to glue the IHS back on the CPU?

You probably want this stuff: http://www.permatex.com/products-2/product-categories/gasketing/gasket-makers/permatex-ultra-black-maximum-oil-resistance-rtv-silicone-gasket-maker-detail

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Hate to tell you but the world doesn't revolve around only your opinion.

i know that, but there is massive thread on delidding over on ocn that isn't hard to find and there are also lots of thermal paste tests on the internet. gelid is the second best none conductive thermal paste on the market and that isn't my opinion, its a fact. 

toms hardware

 

01-Water-Cooling-High-Pressure.png

02-Air-Cooling-High-Pressure.png

04-GPU-Cooling.png

 

http://forum.hwbot.org/showthread.php?t=71658

 

hwbot

OYEf60f.png

 

http://overclocking.guide/thermal-paste-roundup-2015-47-products-tested-with-air-cooling-and-liquid-nitrogen-ln2/6/

 

air_results_final.png

Rig Specs:

AMD Threadripper 5990WX@4.8Ghz

Asus Zenith III Extreme

Asrock OC Formula 7970XTX Quadfire

G.Skill Ripheartout X OC 7000Mhz C28 DDR5 4X16GB  

Super Flower Power Leadex 2000W Psu's X2

Harrynowl's 775/771 OC and mod guide: http://linustechtips.com/main/topic/232325-lga775-core2duo-core2quad-overclocking-guide/ http://linustechtips.com/main/topic/365998-mod-lga771-to-lga775-cpu-modification-tutorial/

ProKoN haswell/DC OC guide: http://linustechtips.com/main/topic/41234-intel-haswell-4670k-4770k-overclocking-guide/

 

"desperate for just a bit more money to watercool, the titan x would be thankful" Carter -2016

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Case Phanteks Enthoo Evolv ITX | Motherboard Asus ROG Strix Z270i | CPU Intel i7-7700K | RAM Team Vulcan 16GB DDR4 | GPU Geforce GTX 1080 Ti | Storage Crucial MX300 1TB M.2 | PSU Corsair RM750x

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I have this epoxy leftover from fixing my rad (accidentally punctured a hole through it with the wrong screw)

 

http://www.homedepot.com/p/J-B-Weld-25-ml-ClearWeld-Quick-Set-Epoxy-Syringe-50112/204986141

https://cdn.shopify.com/s/files/1/0411/5921/files/50112-_Clear_Epoxy_Hardener_and_Resin-Syringe.pdf?3564451144712583943

 

no, dont use it

 

Flash point: > 93,3°C (> 200 °F)

 

so if the flash point is 94 it would be bad

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