EVGA 780TI Classified Water cooling block confusion

[stillapunk]

Hello all,

 

This is my first new thread here so please bare with me

 

Im new to GPU cooling, and with enough googling around for a comparison chart of GPU cooling temps, for the love of god i could not find a decent one.

 

So im here asking the lords of comparion

 

Basically i have a 780 ti Classified edition from EVGA and the card is very well bigger than the reference card.

Im confused if the water blocks will usually fit these because the card is big  and i am worried about the positions of VRM's etc compared to the reference card.

 

If the blocks fit, i would like to know which block would give out best flow rate with cooling capacity, because there are many options with different metals im scared that if i order just anyone i want, with the wrong combination, i would fry the card

 

The options that i have considered are these

 

1. EK-FC780 GTX Ti DCII GPU Waterblock - Acetal + Nickel

 

    http://www.performance-pcs.com/ek-fc-r9-290x-dcii-acetal-nickel-19564.html

 

2. Bitspower VG-NGTX780TI Nickel Plated ICE Black Acrylic Top

    http://www.performance-pcs.com/bitspower-vg-ngtx780ti-nickel-plated-ice-black-acrylic-top.html#Additional-Information

 

3. Aquacomputer Kryographics for GTX 780 Ti Acrylic Glass Edition, Nickel Plated Version

    http://www.performance-pcs.com/aquacomputer-kryographics-for-gtx-780-ti-acrylic-glass-edition-nickel-plated-version.html

 

 

I am not sure if these deliver high performance, because i am all about performance, i'd rather save a little more money and get a good one than settle for something that i can get with what i have.

Also i would be great full if someone could explain what exactly does only nickel or nickel + acetal mean and is one better than the other or its just something for just aesthetics.

 

 

Thanks guys. I'd really appreciate any input in this matter of mine

    

 

 

[Faceman]

Have you considered doing the G10 or HG10 mod?

 

Heck of a lot cheaper, and about 85% the performance of custom.

 

You could water cool your card for under $100 and get sub 50-55C temps.

[Syte]

Have you considered doing the G10 or HG10 mod?

 

Heck of a lot cheaper, and about 85% the performance of custom.

 

You could water cool your card for under $100 and get sub 50-55C temps.

85% of the performance my butt, I've done enough first hand tests of each to easily say it's more like 60% if you have a half-decent ability to assemble a good custom loop, not to mention the whole card gets cooled, not just the core.

@OP

The 780 Ti Classified REQUIRES you to get a 780 Ti Classified block, EK-WB makes one but I'm unsure if they still sell it, you should be able to find a retailer somewhere with one still left over who's willing to ship it if it has infact been discontinued. You can make other blocks work or rummage up your own solution but I'd highly recommend against this if it is your first time.

 

The G10 water cooling bracket does not support the wider PCB of the Classified cards.

 

It will mount but it will not be optimal not to mention it would look silly.

[Faceman]

85% of the performance my butt, I've done enough first hand tests of each to easily say it's more like 60% if you have a half-decent ability to assemble a good custom loop, not to mention the whole card gets cooled, not just the core.

@OP

The 780 Ti Classified REQUIRES you to get a 780 Ti Classified block, EK-WB makes one but I'm unsure if they still sell it, you should be able to find a retailer somewhere with one still left over who's willing to ship it if it has infact been discontinued.

 

The G10 water cooling bracket does not support the wider PCB of the Classified cards.

Really depends on how much radiator space you use, which only adds to the cost.

 

Here are my temps during a 5 hour long Battlefield 4 session. Settings for BF4 are 1920x1080, Ultra everything, 4x MSAA, 120% Resolution Scale, 80% FoV, with V-Sync On. Using an i5-4670k OC'd to 4.5Ghz @ 1.160v cooled by the Seidon 240M at 1350rpm(90%) Pump speed and 1250rpm(50%) Fan speed(2 fans in push). My EVGA GTX 780 SC is cooled by NZXT Kraken G10 and X31 AIO(120mm x 30mm Radiator) with 2 Fans in Push/Pull. The X31's pump speed is at 3600rpm(90%), and Fans at 1250rpm(50%). The G10's 92mm Fan is cooling the VRMs at a constant 2400rpm(75%) and according to my NZXT Sentry3 Fan Controller, I have never seen them exceed 54C. My case is the Phanteks Enthoo Pro. Ambient temperature is 23.8C/75F. Sitting two feet away with case at head level, I am getting a reading of 46 Dba using Sound Meter Lite App on my phone.

 

 

How about some better professional testing?

http://thermalbench.com/2015/03/16/nzxt-kraken-g10/5/

 

A lot of GPUs have built in mid plates which help to cool the VRMs.  Even if they don't, $10 in thermal pads/tape and heatsinks solves that problem real quick.

[Syte]

Really depends on how much radiator space you use, which only adds to the cost.

 

I have a X31 on a GTX 780 SC.  Thats a single 120mm radiator.  2 fans in push/pull.  I don't exceed 49C on the core when playing BF4, and my VRMs don't exceed 54C.  I paid less than $100.  That is with a +100Mhz/250Mhz core/memory OC. Ambient temp of 24C.

 

 

How about some better professional testing?

http://thermalbench.com/2015/03/16/nzxt-kraken-g10/5/

 

A lot of GPUs have built in mid plates which help to cool the VRMs.  Even if they don't, $10 in thermal pads/tape and heatsinks solves that problem real quick.

 

Heavily depends on the card and circumstances. In that case an R9 290, which most people will consider a pretty hot card, reacts very strangely to water cooling. In regards of the OP (who has a 780 Ti Classified) it's completely up to them as Custom Loop water cooling has a lot more appeal than just the massive performance gain.

[Faceman]

The G10 water cooling bracket does not support the wider PCB of the Classified cards.

 

 

Huh?  How much work on this have you really done?

 

Heavily depends on the card and circumstances. In that case an R9 290, which most people will consider a pretty hot card, reacts very strangely to water cooling. In regards of the OP (who has a 780 Ti Classified) it's completely up to them as Custom Loop water cooling has a lot more appeal than just the massive performance gain.

Heavily depends on the card and circumstances?  If you use a Nvidia card, you can expect 30C temp drops.  If using an AMD card, expect 40C temp drops when doing the G10 mod using a single 120mm radiator.  I would know because I have a lot of experience helping people with their G10 over on the OCN G10 Owner's Club.  I have even received praise from NZXT for my help on that thread.  I know what I'm talking about.

 

Yes, there is definitely a lot more to a custom loop than just the performance.  There is a lot of fun to be had with going custom, but I wanted to make the OP aware of the alternatives because he did mention he wants save money, so I presented him the ultra-budget:high performance option.

 

I'm going to bed.  If the OP wants to go custom cooling, he should if he has the money and the patience for it.  But don't say that the G10 won't work, and doesn't deliver 85% of the performance of custom when there is a ton of evidence showing otherwise.

[stillapunk]

Thanks for the swift reply guys, can a 780 ti block work on 780ti classified card or is it different ? i am already cooling my CPU with 360 mm rad custom loop so im thinking of getting a 240 which would work good considering all.

 

Im worried about the blocks, like i have a feeling that im kinda late to the party you know lol...

 

EDIT : I found this, http://www.ekwb.com/shop/ek-fc780-gtx-classy-acetal-nickel.html, is that the only block for the classified edition ?

[EK Luc]

Thanks for the swift reply guys, can a 780 ti block work on 780ti classified card or is it different ? i am already cooling my CPU with 360 mm rad custom loop so im thinking of getting a 240 which would work good considering all.

 

Im worried about the blocks, like i have a feeling that im kinda late to the party you know lol...

 

EDIT : I found this, http://www.ekwb.com/shop/ek-fc780-gtx-classy-acetal-nickel.html, is that the only block for the classified edition ?

 

As of now yes since this block has reach it's "end of life" status.

[Syte]

 

 

Huh?  How much work on this have you really done?

 

It will mount but it will not be optimal not to mention it would look silly.

 

 

 

 

As of now yes since this block has reach it's "end of life" status.

 

 

How long does EK usually stock blocks after they go EOL anyway? Just until stock runs out I assume or do you still maintain the ability to keep them obtainable for a while?

 

@OP if you're looking to do custom loop I'd heavily recommend the 780 Classy, it's a great block and will unlock a lot of potential out of your card.

[EK Luc]

 

How long does EK usually stock blocks after they go EOL anyway? Just until stock runs out I assume or do you still maintain the ability to keep them obtainable for a while?

 

@OP if you're looking to do custom loop I'd heavily recommend the 780 Classy, it's a great block and will unlock a lot of potential out of your card.

 

 

Until stock runs out

[stillapunk]

Until stock runs out

 

I see, thanks a lot EK Luc, coming from the industry member himself, can u please verify that this block will fit my Classified 780 ti, on compatibility list, it says on Visual only.

 

I'd hate it to have gotten the block and then realize that it aint gonna fit it lol.

 

Thanks again guys

[Mindtrick]

I can verify the EK 780 Classy block fits the 780 ti classified cards. Before I bought my Titan X's, I ran two 780ti classifieds. I used these very blocks on them. They work well. Temps in 30's to low 40's °C.

[rcarlos243]

 

Huh?  How much work on this have you really done?

 

Heavily depends on the card and circumstances?  If you use a Nvidia card, you can expect 30C temp drops.  If using an AMD card, expect 40C temp drops when doing the G10 mod using a single 120mm radiator.  I would know because I have a lot of experience helping people with their G10 over on the OCN G10 Owner's Club.  I have even received praise from NZXT for my help on that thread.  I know what I'm talking about.

 

Yes, there is definitely a lot more to a custom loop than just the performance.  There is a lot of fun to be had with going custom, but I wanted to make the OP aware of the alternatives because he did mention he wants save money, so I presented him the ultra-budget:high performance option.

 

I'm going to bed.  If the OP wants to go custom cooling, he should if he has the money and the patience for it.  But don't say that the G10 won't work, and doesn't deliver 85% of the performance of custom when there is a ton of evidence showing otherwise.

 

I disagree that an NZXT G10 delivers 85% of the performance of a custom loop. That is pure BS.

 

Sure you would drop the gpu core load temps to lowish 50's to mid-high 50's with G10 and a dual 120 AIO but people keep forgetting that there is no cooling for the VRM's and even if you put heatsink on it, it won't be nowhere near as good as a custom loop as even overvolting it mildly would overheat the VRM's one extreme situations (like having DSR option) or worse you don't even have any idea what temps the VRM's have (NVIDIA).

 

I have used the NZXT G10 extensively with different coolers (Corsair H110, TT Water 3.0 Ultimate) and GPU's (R9 290, GTX 780), and while it does deliver load temp improvement, It is nowhere near as good as people praise it like the greatest thing since slice bread. You would be limited by VRM temps on how much you can overvolt to overclock the card.

 

For the price of NZXT G10 + single Rad + VRM and RAM heatsink, Arctic Accelero Xtreme IV + VRM and RAM heatsink is a much better choice as it delivers virtually the same cooling performance and has less components to fail(no pump).

[Faceman]

I disagree that an NZXT G10 delivers 85% of the performance of a custom loop. That is pure BS.

Sure you would drop the gpu core load temps to lowish 50's to mid-high 50's with G10 and a dual 120 AIO but people keep forgetting that there is no cooling for the VRM's and even if you put heatsink on it, it won't be nowhere near as good as a custom loop as even overvolting it mildly would overheat the VRM's one extreme situations (like having DSR option) or worse you don't even have any idea what temps the VRM's have (NVIDIA).

I have used the NZXT G10 extensively with different coolers (Corsair H110, TT Water 3.0 Ultimate) and GPU's (R9 290, GTX 780), and while it does deliver load temp improvement, It is nowhere near as good as people praise it like the greatest thing since slice bread. You would be limited by VRM temps on how much you can overvolt to overclock the card.

For the price of NZXT G10 + single Rad + VRM and RAM heatsink, Arctic Accelero Xtreme IV + VRM and RAM heatsink is a much better choice as it delivers virtually the same cooling performance and has less components to fail(no pump).

Care to explain my sub 50C temps with a G10 + X31(single 120 rad) on an EVGA GTX 780 SC w/ +100/+250? Cost me less than $100 even with all of my extras, heat sinks, tape, adapters, TIM, 2nd Fan. My VRMs have never exceeded 54C and that is when I used DSR on Crysis 3. When playing BF4, I'm in the mid to high 30s on VRMs. Monitored with NZXT Sentry 3 temp probe.

Look at the links I posted above where VSG tests the G10, HG10, and two different custom loops. 85% of the performance is legit on the core, and when you spend $12 for heat sinks and thermal tape/pads. His tests were on a naked card. Some people have built in mid plates with VRM cooling which helps tremendously. It's very common.

The Arctic Accelero is also a good option, and I have recommended it plenty. But don't tell me the G10 doesn't deliver 85% of the performance when there are countless examples of people having success with it on heavily overclocked cards going from high VRM temps to lower VRM temps with the G10. Not everyone gets lower VRM temps with the G10, it depends on your card and the cases airflow.

[EK Luc]

I see, thanks a lot EK Luc, coming from the industry member himself, can u please verify that this block will fit my Classified 780 ti, on compatibility list, it says on Visual only.

 

I'd hate it to have gotten the block and then realize that it aint gonna fit it lol.

 

Thanks again guys

 

 

I can verify the EK 780 Classy block fits the 780 ti classified cards. Before I bought my Titan X's, I ran two 780ti classifieds. I used these very blocks on them. They work well. Temps in 30's to low 40's °C.

 

 

Mindtrick gave you the best possible answer 

[rcarlos243]

Care to explain my sub 50C temps with a G10 + X31(single 120 rad) on an EVGA GTX 780 SC w/ +100/+250? Cost me less than $100 even with all of my extras, heat sinks, tape, adapters, TIM, 2nd Fan. My VRMs have never exceeded 54C and that is when I used DSR on Crysis 3. When playing BF4, I'm in the mid to high 30s on VRMs. Monitored with NZXT Sentry 3 temp probe.

Look at the links I posted above where VSG tests the G10, HG10, and two different custom loops. 85% of the performance is legit on the core, and when you spend $12 for heat sinks and thermal tape/pads. His tests were on a naked card. Some people have built in mid plates with VRM cooling which helps tremendously. It's very common.

The Arctic Accelero is also a good option, and I have recommended it plenty. But don't tell me the G10 doesn't deliver 85% of the performance when there are countless examples of people having success with it on heavily overclocked cards going from high VRM temps to lower VRM temps with the G10. Not everyone gets lower VRM temps with the G10, it depends on your card and the cases airflow.

 

That says it all.

 

And no, NZXT thermal probe is pure garbage. I remember there was a test in which someone tried to measure the cpu temps with it and the result is horrendously innacurate compared to reading via the motherboard.

 

I also dare you to put 1.3v or even just 1.225v + LLC disable on GTX 780 (to get 1200Mhz stable on most GTX 780) and try to run and GPU intensive AAA (like Far Cry 4, BF4, Metro Last Light, AS4, etc...) with DSR or even just Kombustor for 10min to see how "cool your supposed vrm's are, just don't point fingers to me when it cooks itself.

 

NZXT G10 + AIO + VRM and RAM heatsink is nowhere near as good as a full cover GPU waterblock (not even close to 70%) and in fact it is worse than Accelero Xtreme IV.

[Faceman]

That says it all.

And no, NZXT thermal probe is pure garbage. I remember there was a test in which someone tried to measure the cpu temps with it and the result is horrendously innacurate compared to reading via the motherboard.

I also dare you to put 1.3v or even just 1.225v + LLC disable on GTX 780 (to get 1200Mhz stable on most GTX 780) and try to run and GPU intensive AAA (like Far Cry 4, BF4, Metro Last Light, AS4, etc...) with DSR or even just Kombustor for 10min to see how "cool your supposed vrm's are, just don't point fingers to me when it cooks itself.

NZXT G10 + AIO + VRM and RAM heatsink is nowhere near as good as a full cover GPU waterblock (not even close to 70%) and in fact it is worse than Accelero Xtreme IV.

I remember you! You're the guy who toasted his MSI 780 with modded BIOS. Well freaking duh. I wouldn't dare push past the 1.212 that is the max. And if you are, a G10 is not what you should be using when going for such an extreme overclock.  That is not a hardware problem, that is pure PITC syndrome.

Trying to monitor CPU with a temp probe is of course not going to be accurate. You can't put the probe inside the mounting mechanism. Use your head. With the temp probe on the VRMs, I can put it smack dab into the middle of the VRMs. Not 100% accurate, but better than if I tried to measure my CPU. Seriously, a little common sense.

I would never run Kombustor because it is a card killer and will brick your card. Stock, overclocked, or modded. Already happened to me on a brand new MSI 770 Lightning, stock. Used two weeks with no problems. Kombustor for 3 minutes bricked the card.  Happens to others too.  Never use Kombustor.

Of course it won't be as good as a custom loop, but you aren't paying $500+, it costs $100 and delivers 85% of the performance, on VRMs too if you spend $12 to get them heatsinked which is included in that $100.

Just because you pushed dangerous amounts of voltage onto your card doesn't mean everyone else does and I have never recommended anyone to go above the 1.212 limit with a G10.  Lets take a look at post #1147 of the G10 Owner's Club, shall we?

 

Dude is rocking an Asus GTX 780Ti Matrix card. Modest OC of 1.88v hitting VRM temps of 104C and 86C on the core with his stock DCUII cooler.  The guy does the G10 mod, without adding any extra heatsinks, which he could have if he wanted to for very cheap.  He increases his OC to 1.203 while simultaneously dropping VRM temps to 81C and core temp to 49C.  Thats a big improvement with a close to maximum OC on the stock BIOS.  Probably also made his system a lot more quiet, all while paying less than $100.  Is this meant to replace custom loops?  No.  But it does provide you with a ton of performance at a reasonable price.

[cesrai]

Care to explain my sub 50C temps with a G10 + X31(single 120 rad) on an EVGA GTX 780 SC w/ +100/+250? Cost me less than $100 even with all of my extras, heat sinks, tape, adapters, TIM, 2nd Fan. My VRMs have never exceeded 54C and that is when I used DSR on Crysis 3. When playing BF4, I'm in the mid to high 30s on VRMs. Monitored with NZXT Sentry 3 temp probe.

Look at the links I posted above where VSG tests the G10, HG10, and two different custom loops. 85% of the performance is legit on the core, and when you spend $12 for heat sinks and thermal tape/pads. His tests were on a naked card. Some people have built in mid plates with VRM cooling which helps tremendously. It's very common.

The Arctic Accelero is also a good option, and I have recommended it plenty. But don't tell me the G10 doesn't deliver 85% of the performance when there are countless examples of people having success with it on heavily overclocked cards going from high VRM temps to lower VRM temps with the G10. Not everyone gets lower VRM temps with the G10, it depends on your card and the cases airflow.

Can you tell me what the text highlighted means /? 

 

And by the heat sinks and thermal tape/pads you mean similar to these

 

[Faceman]

Can you tell me what the text highlighted means /? 

 

And by the heat sinks and thermal tape/pads you mean similar to these

 

+100Mhz core and +250Mhz Memory overclock.

$12 in heat sinks and thermal tape/ pads I will have to get to my computer to link you exactly what I'm talking about. It's kinda like what you linked, but not exactly. I can go into more detail when I'm at my computer.

[cesrai]

+100Mhz core and +250Mhz Memory overclock.

$12 in heat sinks and thermal tape/ pads I will have to get to my computer to link you exactly what I'm talking about. It's kinda like what you linked, but not exactly. I can go into more detail when I'm at my computer.

Thanks and looking forward.

[Faceman]

Thanks and looking forward.

You can follow my How To Water Cool a CPU and Single GPU for Under $200 USD Guide to get the whole post if you would like.

 

I go into great detail about the G10 in that post, but you are asking specifically about the VRMs.  VRAM is not an issue, you have to be cognizant of the VRMs though.

 

 

Before I get started, I want to preface this by saying even if your VRMs are not on the right side of the GPU Die, you can still get this to work, but it requires more specialized extras.  Nothing too pricey, $30 at most to get airflow on the left side of your card.  The G10 provides a 92mm fan for the right side of your card, and that is where the majority of VRMs are located, but some cards do have VRMs on the left hand side, which is why you need to do research and figure out what the PCB looks like for your specific card.

 

 

While some people have had temperature drops going from stock cooling to plain G10, just as many people have had increases in VRM temps going from stock cooling to just G10.  It depends heavily on your card, and the airflow inside your chassis.  I generally recommend people to add heatsinks to their cards when doing the G10 mod no matter what kind of VRM cooling is already in place.  It is inexpensive, and the gains to be had with $12 worth of heatsinks is enormous.

 

So, when your card is naked like this, you have to use thermal pads, not thermal tape.  You want electrically non-conductive material ranging from .5mm-1mm in thickness, that has adhesive on both sides.  These are the thermal pads that I recommend for people in the U.S. with access to Amazon.

 

Once you have placed the thermal pads over the VRMs, they should look like this:

Once you have the thermal pads covering the VRMs, you then place some aluminum heatsinks on top of the thermal pads.  If the heatsinks you buy come with some pre-applied adhesive, you need to clean that off thoroughly.  When installing the heatsinks on to the thermal pads, give it a firm thumb press, but not too strong.  You want a bond to form between the thermal pad adhesive and the heatsink.  I recommend giving it an hour or two to sit and bond before placing it in your machine.

 

 

The VRMs are already heatsinked, so you don't need to do anything extra.  The 92mm fan will be blowing directly over the VRMs which are heatsinked, and there is not much of a way to improve performance outside of adding more fans, generally through PCI bracket, Antec Spot Cool or ghetto mods.

 

This is what my card looked like.

 

I could have left it as is, and I would have been fine, but for just a few bucks, why not do it up better?

With some mid plates, they interfere with mounting, so a copper shim must be used.  Not all, but some.

 

Here is where I added heatsinks to my mid-plate.  Just where the red is.  Because I am not placing heatsinked directly on top of the circuitry, I can use thermal tape instead of thermal pads. Same thing as before, if the heatsinks you buy come with pre-applied tape, clean that off before using your own.  There is roughly 13mm of room between a PCB and the G10 bracket, so you have some room to play with on the size of your heatsinks, but even those small 4mm tall ones that I use work wonders. You can also use copper, but I don't recommend it.  It costs a lot more, and people that did use copper are always complaining about them falling off because they are so heavy.  So just stick with aluminum.

 

VRAM doesn't need to be heatsinked, but you can do it if you want. I'm reusing a picture I used for someone else with the same card which is why they are shown.