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780/290x Lightning LED Color change?

AMD Lover

So I know you can't change the color of the LED through software but the header for the LED plugs into the PCB and I was thinking. Do you think it would be possible to take out or wire together a few cables to achieve only one color? For testing you could simply take wires and shove into the end of the connectors and then touch to the contacts to see if any combination achieved only a single color....

 

Comment Below........

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So I know you can't change the color of the LED through software but the header for the LED plugs into the PCB and I was thinking. Do you think it would be possible to take out or wire together a few cables to achieve only one color? For testing you could simply take wires and shove into the end of the connectors and then touch to the contacts to see if any combination achieved only a single color....

 

Comment Below........

 

It solely depends on the LED most use multiple single color LED so you would need to change out the whole LED to change it's color while others use RGB LED so if you take out other wires you would be missing parts of the spectrum leaving it with a single color going at different brightness to trying to replicate a color within that spectrum but missing two other LED's.

 

Are you trying to change out the LED's on the GPU, if so do you know if they're RGB LED's?

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It solely depends on the LED most use multiple single color LED so you would need to change out the whole LED to change it's color while others use RGB LED so if you take out other wires you would be missing parts of the spectrum leaving it with a single color going at different brightness to trying to replicate a color within that spectrum but missing two other LED's.

 

Are you trying to change out the LED's on the GPU, if so do you know if they're RGB LED's?

So, they change from green to blue to red based on power usage. I wanted to keep them blue (Best would be white but I would have to add my own I think) so I figured I could put some tape or something over a few of the contacts to make them stay blue. Like I said up there though the color I really want it white but I haven't bothered to peal back the tape to see if the LEDS are RGB or how they are mounted or anything. I won't have my new card tell Tue (Had to RMA) so I can't mess with it tell then.

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So, they change from green to blue to red based on power usage. I wanted to keep them blue (Best would be white but I would have to add my own I think) so I figured I could put some tape or something over a few of the contacts to make them stay blue. Like I said up there though the color I really want it white but I haven't bothered to peal back the tape to see if the LEDS are RGB or how they are mounted or anything. I won't have my new card tell Tue (Had to RMA) so I can't mess with it tell then.

 

If they change based on temps it may be a bit more difficult especially if they're RGB since most manufacture's use SMD LED's to save on costs. I assume there is a short length of power cord that comes from the GPU and goes to that LED module, so theoretically you could take off the module and directly take power off the power pins and as long as it's ~3.0V you can add in a resistor and any LED color you wish at that point. 

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If they change based on temps it may be a bit more difficult especially if they're RGB since most manufacture's use SMD LED's to save on costs. I assume there is a short length of power cord that comes from the GPU and goes to that LED module, so theoretically you could take off the module and directly take power off the power pins and as long as it's ~3.0V you can add in a resistor and any LED color you wish at that point. 

Well theres a good chunk of wires that come out from behind the tape (5-6) and then they plug into a header on the PCB right by the fan LED lights.

Work Desktop | CPU: Intel Core i7 4770k | GPU: Quadro K1200 | Motherboard: EVGA Z97 Classified | RAM: Corsair Dominator Platinum 32GB (4x8GB) DDR3-2133Mhz | PSU: Seasonic 750W SS-750KM3 80 PLUS Gold | STORAGE: WD 1TB Se Enterprise Grade Drive & Corsair Neutron NX500 400GB NVMe PCIe  | COOLER: Enermax Liqtech 240 -  5x Noctua NF-F12 iPPC 2000 PWM | CASE: Corsair 600C | OS: Windows 10 Pro | Peripherals: Logitech MX Master 2S -- Logitech K840 -- INTEL X520 10Gb NIC -- 3x Acer H236HL -- Build Log | 

 

Work Server | CPU: Intel Xeon E5-2650 v3 | Model: Cisco UCS C220 M4 (SFF) | RAM: 64GB (4x16GB) Cisco (Samsung) DDR4 2133Mhz | STORAGE: 4x Cisco (Seagate) 900GB 10K 2.5" (RAID 10) - 2x 32GB Cisco FlexFlash Boot Drive (RAID 1) | OS: vSphere 6.7 Enterprise Plus U3 | 

 

Laptop | CPU: Intel Core i7 6700HQ | GPU: Nvidia GTX 960M 2GB GDDR5 | RAM: 32GB (2 x 16GB) DDR4-2400Mhz | STORAGE: 512GB Hynix NVMe | OS: Windows 10 Pro |

 

Gaming Desktop | CPU: Intel Core i7 9700K | GPU: Gigabyte RTX 2080 WINDFORCE 8G  | Motherboard: ASRock Z390 PHANTOM GAMING-ITX | RAM: Ballistix Elite 32GB Kit (16GB x 2) DDR4-3000 | PSU: Silverstone SX700-LPT 700w 80 PLUS Platinum | STORAGE: 2x Samsung 970 PRO 1TB NVMe | COOLER: Noctua NH-L12 | CASE: Louqe Ghost S1 | OS: Windows 10 Pro | Build Log in Progress | 

 

Home Server | CPU: Intel Xeon E5-2690 (Sandy Bridge) | GPU: Quadro P2000 | Motherboard: SUPERMICRO X9SRL-F  | RAM: 64GB (8x8GB) Micron VLP DDR3-1600 ECC | PSU: SUPERMICRO 665W 80 PLUS Bronze | STORAGE: 2x Samsung 860 EVO 500GB (RAID 1) - 4x WD 8TB Ultrastar (RAID 10) - Intel SSD D3-S4510 Series 240GB (BOOT)  | COOLER: Noctua NH-U12DXi4 with 2x Noctua NF-F12 iPPC 3000 PWM | CASE: SUPERMICRO CSE-842TQ-665B 4U | OS: vSphere 6.7 Enterprise Plus U3 | Build Log in Progress |

 

| Pixel 4XL 128GB - Clearly White - Unlocked - Carrier: Visible |

 

| F@H STATS |

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Well theres a good chunk of wires that come out from behind the tape (5-6) and then they plug into a header on the PCB right by the fan LED lights.

 

Yea I would assume a fair number of them since there would be a ground, power lead and three others that control or vary the voltage to change the colors on the RGB LED or turn on and off each single LED. Once you get the replacement card if you could  carefully probe each wire using a multimeter and find a ~3.0V line that is always on even when the temps change those are the two wires you want to use to power your replacement single color LED with using an inline resistor.

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