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Windows 7 Won't Boot Startup Repair Fails

Parkergk

Hey guys, so my computer was working just fine, I uninstalled Avast because I was going to switch to something else, it asked me to reboot to complete the process, I clicked reboot, and now it doesn't even make it to the "windows failed to start page" with boot options.. It goes straight to loading files, and startup repair just results in an endless loop with this error:

 

"Startup repair cannot repair this computer automatically.

 

Problem Signature:

 Problem Event Name: StartupRepairOffline

 Problem Signature 01: 6.1.7600.16389

 Problem Signature 02: 6.1.7600.16389

 Problem Signature 03: unknown

 Problem Signature 04: 21199529

 Problem Signature 05: AutoFailover

 Problem Signature 06: 14

 Problem Signature 07: CorruptRegistry"

 

I tried using the repair disk and startup repair on it, it doesn't do anything, just says if I added anything to the computer recently to unhook it..

 

I tried using boot mbr repair via command console, didn't change anything.

 

Tried doing the "sfc /scannow" but it tells me there is a repair pending and must restart before it can scan regardless of how many times I restart..

 

Also, apparently there aren't any system restore points to go back to..

 

 

Am I just doomed to have to transfer files and reinstall windows? Any help would be incredibly appreciated, thanks in advance..

 

 

 

*Edit: I've decided to just go ahead and reformat the drive after other options failed. One reason being I've been running in IDE instead of AHCI and I'll take this chance to switch to AHCI. However, I'm having issues now getting it to actually run in AHCI..

 

 -I installed windows with AHCI mode enabled in the BIOS.

 -I tried the registry fix where you set both start values to 0.

 -I tried updating and resetting the BIOS.

 

Even after these steps, I still see "IDE:" before the drive name in the BIOS...

 

Any input is greatly appreciated, thanks!

 

 

Also, just for info, it's an ASUS M4A87TD EVO Motherboard and a Kingston V300 SSD.

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Budget? Uses? Currency? Location? Operating System? Peripherals? Monitor? Use PCPartPicker wherever possible. 

Quote whom you're replying to, and set option to follow your topics. Or Else we can't see your reply.

 

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Well, I have that but I haven't tried it yet because pretty sure it gives you the same options that the repair disk I made does..

Edit:

I'm trying it now just for kicks.. but, it's startup repair doesn't seem to do anything either..

 

Yeah, no luck with the installation CD..

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Well, I have that but I haven't tried it yet because pretty sure it gives you the same options that the repair disk I made does..

Edit:

I'm trying it now just for kicks.. but, it's startup repair doesn't seem to do anything either..

 

Yeah, no luck with the installation CD..

Looks like reinstalling Winows is your only option.... And that is why you don't turn off System Restore.

LTT's unofficial Windows activation expert.
 

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Looks like reinstalling Winows is your only option.... And that is why you don't turn off System Restore.

 

Yeah.. unfortunately that's what it's looking like..

 

If it was turned off I certainly don't recall ever doing so, because that is something I most certainly want on at all times.

 

 

I guess I'll take this as a chance to switch my SSD to AHCI, it's been running in IDE because apprently I forgot to switch it in the BIOS before I installed Windows..

 

One question though, I have another HDD I use as a backup that I run as a slave, will I have to delete everything from it as well to switch to AHCI?

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Yeah.. unfortunately that's what it's looking like..

 

If it was turned off I certainly don't recall ever doing so, because that is something I most certainly want on at all times.

 

 

I guess I'll take this as a chance to switch my SSD to AHCI, it's been running in IDE because apprently I forgot to switch it in the BIOS before I installed Windows..

 

One question though, I have another HDD I use as a backup that I run as a slave, will I have to delete everything from it as well to switch to AHCI?

No, AHCI can only screw up the boot drive, the other ones will be fine. However, if you have any programs installed, be ready to reintsall them.

LTT's unofficial Windows activation expert.
 

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Did you try to press F8 to see if still can boot up into Safe Mode?Might save you from reinstall everything...If can't...then reinstall it...do it carefully this time...

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No, AHCI can only screw up the boot drive, the other ones will be fine. However, if you have any programs installed, be ready to reintsall them.

 

 

Alright, I appreciate all the help, I am having an issue though actually getting the drive to run in AHCI... I changed it in the BIOS before I reformatted and installed windows, but it's still saying "IDE:" before the drive name in the storage manager in the BIOS.. I did some research and tried the registry fix where you set the AHCI and IDE start values to 0 and reboot but mine were already at 0.. I tried it anyway but it didn't actually change anything.. so any help would be greatly appreciated.

 

 

Did you try to press F8 to see if still can boot up into Safe Mode?Might save you from reinstall everything...If can't...then reinstall it...do it carefully this time...

 

It never actually got to the screen with the options, just instantly goes to Startup Repair.. it's not a huge deal after I copied off all my important files, I took it as a chance to switch over to AHCI, though I'm having issues doing so, which I described just above.

 

Any help at all figuring out why I'm still running in IDE would be wonderful, thanks guys for all the input.  :)

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Alright, I appreciate all the help, I am having an issue though actually getting the drive to run in AHCI... I changed it in the BIOS before I reformatted and installed windows, but it's still saying "IDE:" before the drive name in the storage manager in the BIOS.. I did some research and tried the registry fix where you set the AHCI and IDE start values to 0 and reboot but mine were already at 0.. I tried it anyway but it didn't actually change anything.. so any help would be greatly appreciated.

It never actually got to the screen with the options, just instantly goes to Startup Repair.. it's not a huge deal after I copied off all my important files, I took it as a chance to switch over to AHCI, though I'm having issues doing so, which I described just above.

Any help at all figuring out why I'm still running in IDE would be wonderful, thanks guys for all the input. :)

Try updating the BIOS.

LTT's unofficial Windows activation expert.
 

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Try updating the BIOS.

 

Well I updated the BIOS, but nothing seems to have changed, even the registry values are both still 0..

 

Not sure why I'm having so much trouble when seeing others who had the same issue easily resolved it via the registry fix..

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Format SSD (again?),unplug SSD from motherboard,Clear CMOS,reset BIOS,Plug SSD to motherboard switch to AHCI,Install OS,See if still default IDE.

 

Take all the time you need to figure it,just play with it...If in the end still can't get rid of IDE...then...why not take it,although SSD's true performance might be blocked,but at least it's stable.

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Format SSD (again?),unplug SSD from motherboard,Clear CMOS,reset BIOS,Plug SSD to motherboard switch to AHCI,Install OS,See if still default IDE.

 

Take all the time you need to figure it,just play with it...If in the end still can't get rid of IDE...then...why not take it,although SSD's true performance might be blocked,but at least it's stable.

 

Yeah, I should've cleared the CMOS before I installed but didn't think to. We'll see what ASUS has to say, I'm awaiting response from them..  :rolleyes:

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Have you connected the SSD to SATA port 0? That's what I would suggest.

 

-Set SATA Ports to AHCI

-Connect SSD to SATA port 0

-install Windows from an USB thumb drive

 

Some boards had problems installing Windows 7 with AHCI from optical drives. That could be an issue with your board as Asus suggests to set SATA port 5+6 to IDE for a Windows installation with an optical drive.

“For if we are truly created equal, then surely the love we commit to one another must be equal as well.” 
― Barack Obama

 

Tech:

Daily Driver: MacBook Pro 15" TB (mid-2018), Intel Core i7-8850H, 16 GB DDR4 2400 MHz, 512 GB SSD, AMD Radeon Pro 560XWeight lifting: Dell Alienware 15 R4, Intel Core i7-8750H, 16 GB DDR4 2400 MHz SK Hynix, Nvidia GTX 1070 on 15" 1080p TN Gsync 120Hz, Intel Pro 7600p PCIe NVMe 256 GB, Samsung 860 Evo 1TB, 15" 1920x1080 TN Gsync 120Hz, Windows 10 Pro, Fedora 30, K.L, P.OS. The Home Panel: Samsung C34H892, 34" Ultra Wide 3440x1440p, VA, 60Hz.

 

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Have you connected the SSD to SATA port 0? That's what I would suggest.

 

-Set SATA Ports to AHCI

-Connect SSD to SATA port 0

-install Windows from an USB thumb drive

 

Some boards had problems installing Windows 7 with AHCI from optical drives. That could be an issue with your board as Asus suggests to set SATA port 5+6 to IDE for a Windows installation with an optical drive.

 

The SSD is in port 0, though, I had considered the possibility of the DVD drive being at fault because it would not recognize in AHCI.

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The SSD is in port 0, though, I had considered the possibility of the DVD drive being at fault because it would not recognize in AHCI.

 

I had this once with an Asus DVDRW drive which was a little bit older (build around '06 or '07 if I remember right). Once I switched to a brand new one from LG (was back in 2013) everything worked fine. If you have/know someone with an external DVD drive that would be an option too. 

“For if we are truly created equal, then surely the love we commit to one another must be equal as well.” 
― Barack Obama

 

Tech:

Daily Driver: MacBook Pro 15" TB (mid-2018), Intel Core i7-8850H, 16 GB DDR4 2400 MHz, 512 GB SSD, AMD Radeon Pro 560XWeight lifting: Dell Alienware 15 R4, Intel Core i7-8750H, 16 GB DDR4 2400 MHz SK Hynix, Nvidia GTX 1070 on 15" 1080p TN Gsync 120Hz, Intel Pro 7600p PCIe NVMe 256 GB, Samsung 860 Evo 1TB, 15" 1920x1080 TN Gsync 120Hz, Windows 10 Pro, Fedora 30, K.L, P.OS. The Home Panel: Samsung C34H892, 34" Ultra Wide 3440x1440p, VA, 60Hz.

 

Tumblr - Riot-Company, CA

 

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