Case Paint Help

[QuadNine]

So I want to change the colour of my case from matte  black  to a glossy white, I under stand that I need to sand it spray the primer on, wait a day spray the paint on, then wait a few days then spray the gloss on (correct me If I'm wrong). I was just wondering what paint should I get, and what kind of gloss. Also any 12x12 acrylic pieces? and what should I use to cut through the metal side panel?

[MinotaurGrumps]

I wish I could be so grossly incandescent.

Also, get painter's tape.

[Laputacake]

Pasti-dip or plasti-kote for ease of use. To cut use an angle grinder or rotary tool

[QuadNine]

I wish I could be so grossly incandescent.

Also, get painter's tape.

SunBro?

[QuadNine]

Pasti-dip or plasti-kote for ease of use. To cut use an angle grinder or rotary

Is there any place I can use those temporarily, instead of having to buy one 

[Laputacake]

Is there any place I can use those temporarily, instead of having to buy one 

hardware store? You should be able to find somewhere locally that let you rent them

[MinotaurGrumps]

SunBro?

Indeed.

[W-L]

So I want to change the colour of my case from matte  black  to a glossy white, I under stand that I need to sand it spray the primer on, wait a day spray the paint on, then wait a few days then spray the gloss on (correct me If I'm wrong). I was just wondering what paint should I get, and what kind of gloss. Also any 12x12 acrylic pieces? and what should I use to cut through the metal side panel?

 

For spray paint wait times and dry times you should follow the manufacture's recommended times since it varies from brand to brand and type of spray paint you are using. As for gloss finish if you are looking or a smooth car or piano finish you'll need to cur back the clear coat and polish to achieve a perfectly flat and smooth finish, for just a slightly textured gloss finish a few coats of clear will work well. For primers and sanding be sure to roughen up the surface, clean and do any masking needed before painting but as long as you have an original coating on the parts you don't need to prime the parts again but it can help with coverage. Primer is only mandatory when you start from bare metal whereby a self etching primer is a good choice.

 

As for brands of paint my two major ones are Rustoleum and Krylon they both make great products can't really go wrong but if you want a larger color palette other than white graffiti/artist's spray paints are a good choice.

 

 

Acrylic sheets:

http://www.amazon.com/Small-Parts-Cast-Acrylic-Sheet/dp/B00JB7FEEU

 

 

As said by others a Dremel/rotary tool gives good control and cutting for side panels, make sure to get reinforced abrasive cutting discs, they work much better than the emery ones on metal panels and don't break as often.

[QuadNine]

For spray paint wait times and dry times you should follow the manufacture's recommended times since it varies from brand to brand and type of spray paint you are using. As for gloss finish if you are looking or a smooth car or piano finish you'll need to cur back the clear coat and polish to achieve a perfectly flat and smooth finish, for just a slightly textured gloss finish a few coats of clear will work well. For primers and sanding be sure to roughen up the surface, clean and do any masking needed before painting but as long as you have an original coating on the parts you don't need to prime the parts again but it can help with coverage. Primer is only mandatory when you start from bare metal whereby a self etching primer is a good choice.

 

As for brands of paint my two major ones are Rustoleum and Krylon they both make great products can't really go wrong but if you want a larger color palette other than white graffiti/artist's spray paints are a good choice.

 

 

Acrylic sheets:

http://www.amazon.com/Small-Parts-Cast-Acrylic-Sheet/dp/B00JB7FEEU

 

 

As said by others a Dremel/rotary tool gives good control and cutting for side panels, make sure to get reinforced abrasive cutting discs, they work much better than the emery ones on metal panels and don't break as often.

So it already has it painted so should I sand it, then spray paint it, or just spray paint off the bat?

[QuadNine]

For spray paint wait times and dry times you should follow the manufacture's recommended times since it varies from brand to brand and type of spray paint you are using. As for gloss finish if you are looking or a smooth car or piano finish you'll need to cur back the clear coat and polish to achieve a perfectly flat and smooth finish, for just a slightly textured gloss finish a few coats of clear will work well. For primers and sanding be sure to roughen up the surface, clean and do any masking needed before painting but as long as you have an original coating on the parts you don't need to prime the parts again but it can help with coverage. Primer is only mandatory when you start from bare metal whereby a self etching primer is a good choice.

 

As for brands of paint my two major ones are Rustoleum and Krylon they both make great products can't really go wrong but if you want a larger color palette other than white graffiti/artist's spray paints are a good choice.

 

 

Acrylic sheets:

http://www.amazon.com/Small-Parts-Cast-Acrylic-Sheet/dp/B00JB7FEEU

 

 

As said by others a Dremel/rotary tool gives good control and cutting for side panels, make sure to get reinforced abrasive cutting discs, they work much better than the emery ones on metal panels and don't break as often.

So it already has it painted so should I sand it, then spray paint it, or just spray paint off the bat?

[W-L]

So it already has it painted so should I sand it, then spray paint it, or just spray paint off the bat?

 

You need to roughen up the surface of the original paint as long as it's in good condition and not peeling off, something like 400 grit sand paper or scotch brite is good for that without going right though the paint. Make sure to clean it VERY well with either prep-all or alcohol and wash your hands and tools before painting worst thing is getting dust or particles in the paint.

 

Personally I do like to give it a very light coat of primer so it covers the orginal colors better if I'm going from dark to light or just as precaution but it is not absolutely necessary.

[QuadNine]

You need to roughen up the surface of the original paint as long as it's in good condition and not peeling off, something like 400 grit sand paper or scotch brite is good for that without going right though the paint. Make sure to clean it VERY well with either prep-all or alcohol and wash your hands and tools before painting worst thing is getting dust or particles in the paint.

 

Personally I do like to give it a very light coat of primer so it covers the orginal colors better if I'm going from dark to light or just as precaution but it is not absolutely necessary.

For a standard ATX case about how much spray paint would I need(oz)? and how many coats do I need, would it be until it looks good or what?

[W-L]

For a standard ATX case about how much spray paint would I need(oz)? and how many coats do I need, would it be until it looks good or what?

 

I believe a standard can is 12 oz, and usually 2-3 coats of paint are minimum for even and good coverage. I would say 3 cans should be more than enough to do the exterior of a case, it's better to have an extra that you can return than to run out in the middle of painting.

[QuadNine]

I believe a standard can is 12 oz, and usually 2-3 coats of paint are minimum for even and good coverage. I would say 3 cans should be more than enough to do the exterior of a case, it's better to have an extra that you can return than to run out in the middle of painting.

Oh kind of a noob question, do I wait before doing another coat?

[W-L]

Oh kind of a noob question, do I wait before doing another coat?

 

Yes you definitely want to wait between coats, it varies between manufacture's so it's a good idea to check what they recommend on the can. It's better to do a few light even coats than one thick one, it'll give you a better finish and at times can cause curing or drying issues if it gets put on too thick or you go too fast between coats.

[QuadNine]

Yes you definitely want to wait between coats, it varies between manufacture's so it's a good idea to check what they recommend on the can. It's better to do a few light even coats than one thick one, it'll give you a better finish and at times can cause curing or drying issues if it gets put on too thick or you go too fast between coats.

Would this be good for the job, good enough where I don't need plasti dip or something like that? www.amazon.com/gp/product/B000QSZFZ6/ref=ox_sc_act_title_2?ie=UTF8&psc=1&smid=ATVPDKIKX0DER

[W-L]

Would this be good for the job, good enough where I don't need plasti dip or something like that? www.amazon.com/gp/product/B000QSZFZ6/ref=ox_sc_act_title_2?ie=UTF8&psc=1&smid=ATVPDKIKX0DER

 

Plasti-dip is a completely different road, it's basically a rubber spray that you can peel off if you want later down the road, compared to paint it's bit less durable in abrasion or scuffing since it is a rubber spray it can tear.

 

Yes that should work, I personally use Rustoleum for most of my projects since I have it on hand for slightly cheaper where I get it.

[QuadNine]

Plasti-dip is a completely different road, it's basically a rubber spray that you can peel off if you want later down the road, compared to paint it's bit less durable in abrasion or scuffing since it is a rubber spray it can tear.

 

Yes that should work, I personally use Rustoleum for most of my projects since I have it on hand for slightly cheaper where I get it.

Thank you so much for your help! I will quote you If I need any more help. Thanks again!