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All ROG Build Issue - PLEASE HELP!!

Go to solution Solved by NumLock21,
7 minutes ago, One Angry Soldier said:

Yeah, it's an ROG Ryujin III 369 Extreme; best recommended AIO for the motherboard and CPU. Anyway, that debug code LED will not even turn on. I should be seeing numbers, or letters, but there is nothing.

I guess it doesn't matter. I tried it and still have no result.

Could be a faulty board. Take it back from what you got it and do an exchange, make sure no pins are damaged.

My issue is actually not involving turning the PC on, but involves installing my motherboard. I went for an all ROG build (thank you Linus) a few years back. I originally started with a Phanteks case, for my Asus ROG Z390E Gaming Wi-Fi motherboard, and decided to upgrade to an Asus ROG Strix Helios case. The motherboard fit in the case, like a glove. I later upgraded to an Asus ROG Strix Z690-E Gaming Wi-Fi motherboard, and it fit the chassis perfectly, also. Just last week I decided to upgrade my motherboard (again), CPU, AIO, and RAM, so I purchased an Asus ROG Maximus Z890 Hero. I went to fit it into the chassis and the screw holes will not line up. They are off by a couple millimeters. I read something on the Asus forums about using taller standoffs, followed with a statement that it would fit perfectly, otherwise it could be offset by a couple millimeters, due to the metal shield behind the motherboard (which seemed accurate because my holes were off by a couple millimeters).

 

I tried searching everywhere for my spare hardware, and I'm guessing that I lost them in a move. Turns out that I'm also missing some motherboard screws (I have no clue how, but only have 6 out of 9), so I called Asus, hoping to get some taller standoffs and replacement screws, to fit my case, and the person I spoke to tried telling me that my case is not compatible with my motherboard. I explained to her that it's an ATX motherboard, and my standoffs are set for ATX, she tried saying that that is a common misunderstanding that PC builders have, about motherboard and chassis compatibility, followed with her insisting that it won't fit because the motherboard is 12"X9.6", where my case is designed for motherboards that are 12"X10.9", or something like that. I understand that that's the size of that particular motherboard, and what size my chassis can fit (up to), but it's the positioning of the screw holes is what matters (to my understanding). It also wouldn't make sense to me that Asus would build different ROG chassis and motherboards that were not compatible with each other.

 

Anyway, she insisted I needed to buy a new chassis. I'm not doing that! This chassis was way too expensive, and the best I've ever owned! I'm no PC building expert, and I'm pretty new to the field, but none of this made sense to me. Does anybody know what she was referring to? If she is wrong then does anybody know where I can possibly get some slightly taller standoffs, or standoff extensions? Any help would be greatly appreciated. If you need pictures, or anything like that, then I can provide them. Until then, I figured my description would be good enough for people to understand.

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If you want to fit an E-ATX into a ATX case. Then you will probably need to drill and use either M3 bolt+nut setup. Or do the more proper solution of using M3 rivet nuts (nutserts) at 4.7-5mm. And screw standard brass standoffs into them. Make sure to vacuum any metal shavings. 

If you are not a DIY person. New case is prolly best option, or another mobo 😛 

i9-12900KF | ASUS Strix Z690-A D4 | 64 GB DDR4 13-14-14-28 | XFX 7900 XTX | 990 Pro 4 TB + P3 4 TB + 970 Evo Plus 500 GB | 870 QVO 4 TB + WD Blue 1 TB + Crucial 256 GB | Corsair 7000X Mesh | HX1000 Platinum | H150i Elite 360 | Samsung G8 OLED 32" + ASUS ROG Swift 34" Ultrawide

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Are you saying the last column of holes from your motherboard will not reach the last column of stand offs from your case? A case that can fit a motherboard of 12x10.9" will a motherboard of that size and smaller. You're motherboard will fit into the case,cause it's not over the recommended size of 12x10.9". The motherboard board has a total of 9 screw holes, the most you can secure it is 6 screws. far edge of the board, just use your hand as support when plugging in the cables. 

 

 

 

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20 minutes ago, NumLock21 said:

Are you saying the last column of holes from your motherboard will not reach the last column of stand offs from your case? A case that can fit a motherboard of 12x10.9" will a motherboard of that size and smaller. You're motherboard will fit into the case,cause it's not over the recommended size of 12x10.9". The motherboard board has a total of 9 screw holes, the most you can secure it is 6 screws. far edge of the board, just use your hand as support when plugging in the cables. 

I did try exactly that. I was concerned that it not fitting properly was causing the board to short circuit because it wouldn't power on. It was either that, or my ASUS ROG Thor Platinum II has kicked the bucket. That's what started this whole fiasco in the first place, but I didn't mention it until now. My original issue is that my motherboard is receiving power; the screen comes on, the RAM lights up, and the AIO comes on, but nothing else. Fans will not turn on, and neither will the PC itself. The power button for the tower also remains lit, but that's it. I don't have a PSU tester and don't have enough experience to know how to do the paper clip trick.

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4 minutes ago, One Angry Soldier said:

I did try exactly that. I was concerned that it not fitting properly was causing the board to short circuit because it wouldn't power on. It was either that, or my ASUS ROG Thor Platinum II has kicked the bucket. That's what started this whole fiasco in the first place, but I didn't mention it until now. My original issue is that my motherboard is receiving power; the screen comes on, the RAM lights up, and the AIO comes on, but nothing else. Fans will not turn on, and neither will the PC itself. The power button for the tower also remains lit, but that's it. I don't have a PSU tester and don't have enough experience to know how to do the paper clip trick.

Is the board still installed into the case? What CPU do you have?

 

 

 

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Just now, NumLock21 said:

Is the board installed into the case?

It was, but I took it out and figured I would try to test it separately, just to see if it will power on that way. I have never done that before, so I have to try and separate the cables and stuff, and plug them in. Do you think I would need to remove the PSU from the chassis before doing so, or will it be fine if it remains and I just plugged the cables in from there?

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6 minutes ago, One Angry Soldier said:

It was, but I took it out and figured I would try to test it separately, just to see if it will power on that way. I have never done that before, so I have to try and separate the cables and stuff, and plug them in. Do you think I would need to remove the PSU from the chassis before doing so, or will it be fine if it remains and I just plugged the cables in from there?

Can leave the PSU in the chassis, as long as the cables can reach the motherboard. Just plug the psu to the motherboard  and nothing else, and use onboard graphics, and power up your board to see if it POST or not. The current board you have, comes with a built in power button, can use that to turn on your PC. 

 

 

 

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21 minutes ago, NumLock21 said:

CPU has built in graphics, use the onboard graphics from CPU to see if system will POST.

So, I did exactly that and I'm still having no luck. 😔 Fans will not kick on, and the monitor doesn't even register that it's turned on. What you see is all I can get. This is exactly what it was like when it was in the chassis. At least now I know that the misalignment is not the cause. I don't even hear the PSU fan.

17563210605908856030577999761301.jpg

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5 minutes ago, One Angry Soldier said:

So, I did exactly that and I'm still having no luck. 😔 Fans will not kick on, and the monitor doesn't even register that it's turned on. What you see is all I can get. This is exactly what it was like when it was in the chassis. At least now I know that the misalignment is not the cause. I don't even hear the PSU fan.

 

Spoiler

17563210605908856030577999761301.jpg

 

Some PSU have this eco mode where fan will not start until it reaches a certain temp. Unplug that USB header to whatever that's from. Try a single stick of ram or swap ram if 1st stick don't work. Remove CPU and reinstall, check socket for any damage pins. 

 

 

 

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1 minute ago, NumLock21 said:

Some PSU have this eco mode where fan will not start until it reaches a certain temp. Unplug that USB header to whatever that's from. Try a single stick of ram. 

The USB headers is for my AIO. Should I still unplug it? Does it matter which stick of RAM I remove?

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9 minutes ago, NumLock21 said:

Some PSU have this eco mode where fan will not start until it reaches a certain temp. Unplug that USB header to whatever that's from. Try a single stick of ram or swap ram if 1st stick don't work. Remove CPU and reinstall, check socket for any damage pins. 

I guess it doesn't matter. I tried it and still have no result.

17563220882263108001336898230438.jpg

17563221194601046238480885384368.jpg

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16 minutes ago, One Angry Soldier said:

I guess it doesn't matter. I tried it and still have no result.

Spoiler

17563220882263108001336898230438.jpg

17563221194601046238480885384368.jpg

 

What AIO do you have?

edit: I went to look up one that is similar to yours based on the design of the AIO, which is from Asus. Looks like the USB header is just to power up the LCD screen on the AIO cover, it's not for the essentials, like the pump which is powered by the 4pin connector. Your board also has a debug code led, try to use that to narrow down what might be the issue for not booting up. 

 

 

 

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2 hours ago, One Angry Soldier said:

That's all well and good, but my ROG Maximus Z890 Hero is an ATX, and my chassis standoffs are set on ATX. I'm hoping I don't have to do any modifications, other than taller standoffs.

Aha its not an E-ATX. Well if just slightly off, you can probably bend the standoffs so you get a better angle an screw in there.

If you have a tool that can clamp on good, should be easy to bend standoff it a bit. 

i9-12900KF | ASUS Strix Z690-A D4 | 64 GB DDR4 13-14-14-28 | XFX 7900 XTX | 990 Pro 4 TB + P3 4 TB + 970 Evo Plus 500 GB | 870 QVO 4 TB + WD Blue 1 TB + Crucial 256 GB | Corsair 7000X Mesh | HX1000 Platinum | H150i Elite 360 | Samsung G8 OLED 32" + ASUS ROG Swift 34" Ultrawide

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14 minutes ago, NumLock21 said:

What AIO do you have?

edit: I went to look up one that is similar to yours based on the design of the AIO, which is from Asus. Looks like the USB header is just to power up the LCD screen on the AIO cover, it's not for the essentials, like the pump which is powered by the 4pin connector. Your board also has a debug code led, try to use that to narrow down what might be the issue for not booting up. 

Yeah, it's an ROG Ryujin III 369 Extreme; best recommended AIO for the motherboard and CPU. Anyway, that debug code LED will not even turn on. I should be seeing numbers, or letters, but there is nothing.

30 minutes ago, NumLock21 said:

Some PSU have this eco mode where fan will not start until it reaches a certain temp. Unplug that USB header to whatever that's from. Try a single stick of ram or swap ram if 1st stick don't work. Remove CPU and reinstall, check socket for any damage pins. 

I guess it doesn't matter. I tried it and still have no result.

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1 minute ago, Smalahovet said:

Aha its not an E-ATX. Well if just slightly off, you can probably bend the standoffs so you get a better angle an screw in there.

If you have a tool that can clamp on good, should be easy to bend standoff it a bit. 

Yeah. Turns out that's not exactly the problem now. I thought it was the root cause of the true issue, but it's not. 😔

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7 minutes ago, One Angry Soldier said:

Yeah, it's an ROG Ryujin III 369 Extreme; best recommended AIO for the motherboard and CPU. Anyway, that debug code LED will not even turn on. I should be seeing numbers, or letters, but there is nothing.

I guess it doesn't matter. I tried it and still have no result.

Could be a faulty board. Take it back from what you got it and do an exchange, make sure no pins are damaged.

 

 

 

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46 minutes ago, NumLock21 said:

Could be a faulty board. Take it back from what you got it and do an exchange, make sure no pins are damaged.

Mmm! A wise one you are!  I disconnected it and hooked up my Z690 and it fired up just fine. Currently trying to exchange it,  but Amazon is saying they can't; they can only refund and have me buy a new one. That's a major hassle for me. They're forwarding me to a supervisor now.

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