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Repairing Micro USB port on keyboard by Soldering cable directly to pads

Go to solution Solved by FlyingPotato_is_taken,

micro-B header always (there might be  some exception) have the same sequence. So you only need to figure out if they are left to right or right to left (which also correlate to which orientation the micro b plugs in).

 

On the right there is this yellow blob. A tantalum capacitor. Dark red line is the (+) side. Very likely this pin is Vcc so mystery already solved but let's continue to double check:

Right next to it is U6. this is a ESD protection diode and the traces look like differential impedance controlled transmission lines. No clue what D+ and D- are. But we know that this connector has likely the normal pinout so we can make an educated guess that the right is D- and the left is D+.

Next in line is the pin connected to a large copper area. Sounds to me like it could be ground.

The remining pin on the left is tricky. By the pinout we know this should be the ID pin but why is there R3 and C5? Can't read the values but once more an educated guess would be a pF-capacitor and a high value/impedance  resistor. This is likely for EMI reasons.

Hello! First time poster here, so hopefully this is the right thread to post in.
My micro USB port on my Havit HV-KB395L broke recently. I think it's just the inside of the port, not the pads themselves.
I'm looking for some guidance on soldering a USB A cable directly to the pads.
I've attached an image of the port- it looks like each of the pads that the micro USB port is soldered to has a trace that runs to the larger, CON2 pads, behind it. My plan was to ignore the port and solder the spliced USB cable directly onto those CON2 pads in the order (left to right) 1: vcc, 2: d-, 3: d+, 4: id (ignoring this one and not soldering it), 5: gnd.
Is this correct? I can't find the pinout for the board, so I am not sure if there is a way to confirm what order the pads are in. If this configuration does not work, would the next guess be to reverse it?
Thanks for your time!
 

microusbport.jpg

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3 minutes ago, FlyingPotato_is_taken said:

My guess (no warranty): Left to right:

ID -> DNP

GND -> black

D+ -> green

D- -> white

Vcc -> red 

image.png.c2a027f6fea0e9496966884d032f1f4a.png

Thank you! What lead you to that conclusion? Is that the typical configuration?

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24 minutes ago, DragonOfTheWest said:

Hello! First time poster here, so hopefully this is the right thread to post in.
My micro USB port on my Havit HV-KB395L broke recently. I think it's just the inside of the port, not the pads themselves.
I'm looking for some guidance on soldering a USB A cable directly to the pads.
I've attached an image of the port- it looks like each of the pads that the micro USB port is soldered to has a trace that runs to the larger, CON2 pads, behind it. My plan was to ignore the port and solder the spliced USB cable directly onto those CON2 pads in the order (left to right) 1: vcc, 2: d-, 3: d+, 4: id (ignoring this one and not soldering it), 5: gnd.
Is this correct? I can't find the pinout for the board, so I am not sure if there is a way to confirm what order the pads are in. If this configuration does not work, would the next guess be to reverse it?
Thanks for your time!
 

microusbport.jpg

You could always determine it by plugging in the port and seeing where 5V is. Otherwise you could check the ground of some of the LEDs and see if its got continuity to one of the pins.

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micro-B header always (there might be  some exception) have the same sequence. So you only need to figure out if they are left to right or right to left (which also correlate to which orientation the micro b plugs in).

 

On the right there is this yellow blob. A tantalum capacitor. Dark red line is the (+) side. Very likely this pin is Vcc so mystery already solved but let's continue to double check:

Right next to it is U6. this is a ESD protection diode and the traces look like differential impedance controlled transmission lines. No clue what D+ and D- are. But we know that this connector has likely the normal pinout so we can make an educated guess that the right is D- and the left is D+.

Next in line is the pin connected to a large copper area. Sounds to me like it could be ground.

The remining pin on the left is tricky. By the pinout we know this should be the ID pin but why is there R3 and C5? Can't read the values but once more an educated guess would be a pF-capacitor and a high value/impedance  resistor. This is likely for EMI reasons.

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@FlyingPotato_is_taken
That makes a lot of sense- thanks! Do you think I would be able to solder the cable on without removing the port? Or will that cause problems?

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main-qimg-3b7b88c94b1ff966d4ad601b6f179972.webp.be81485c81aed3000598c7fabbd76ad0.webp

 

The photo isn't good enough to see the traces but it doesn't look that any traces swap between the connector and pads, can't see if there is a trace going to a pad for ID. Check by eye or with a multimeter.

 

27 minutes ago, DragonOfTheWest said:

Do you think I would be able to solder the cable on without removing the port? Or will that cause problems?

Fine to leave unless there happened to be a short in the connector.

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