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Primary M.2 drive slot not showing drive after CPU upgrade

Hey all, I currently have an X570 AORUS ELITE (rev. 1.0) motherboard that I was running with 3600x / F3 bios for years. The plan was always to upgrade to a 5800x3d, which I recently got on sale. To prep for this, I updated the bios on my MB to F37 and everything was working for about 3 weeks running my 3600x.

 

This weekend, swapped out the 3600x for the 5800x3d. Booted up, got the fTPM message, then no boot device detected. Went back into bios, no device listed in the primary M.2 slot, all other drives showed fine. Swapped back to the 3600x, same thing, no drive listed in the primary slot. Got a new m.2 and an external m.2 enclosure from BB today, old m.2 works fine in the enclosure, put in the new drive, still not showing in bios or when I went to install windows. Double checked on part picker and they show my MB has compatible with the new drive.

 

I don't know if I somehow managed to damage both CPUs, if that slot is damaged on my MB now, if I'm now hitting some sort of internal drive limit based on the storage interface or something else.

 

I'm currently running a fresh windows 10 install on an old 2.5 SSD so i can work in the AM via remote.

 

I'm at a complete loss. Thoughts?

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Check your CMOS battery voltage. 

 

Check the CPU-s for bent pins.

 

Make sure you're running Secure Boot enabled, UEFI boot, CSM disabled.

M.S.C.E. (M.Sc. Computer Engineering), IT specialist in a hospital, 30+ years of gaming, 20+ years of computer enthusiasm, Geek, Trekkie, anime fan

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downgrade the bios and it should work again. and get all version of the bios for the mobo. and test each one till it works properly. and did you remember to go into the bios and to m.2 back on !!!

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8 hours ago, 191x7 said:

Check your CMOS battery voltage. 

 

Check the CPU-s for bent pins.

 

Make sure you're running Secure Boot enabled, UEFI boot, CSM disabled.

How would I check CMOS voltage? Neither of my CPUs seemed to have bent pins when I checked them. There's no resistance when I install them in my MB. I'll try the 3rd thing later today.

8 hours ago, scruffballz_86 said:

downgrade the bios and it should work again. and get all version of the bios for the mobo. and test each one till it works properly. and did you remember to go into the bios and to m.2 back on !!!

Would I need to downgrade bios if everything initially worked with my 3600x for a few weeks? Where would that m.2 setting be? Also the drive in my other m.2 slot still shows.

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7 hours ago, Viridios said:

How would I check CMOS voltage?

Voltmeter, multimeter, CR2032 battery tester, ... if you don't have any of those, just replace the battery - cheaper than getting a multimeter.

M.S.C.E. (M.Sc. Computer Engineering), IT specialist in a hospital, 30+ years of gaming, 20+ years of computer enthusiasm, Geek, Trekkie, anime fan

  • Main PC: AMD Ryzen 7 5800X3D - EK AIO 360 D-RGB - Arctic Cooling MX-4 - Asus Prime X570-P - 4x8GB DDR4 3200 HyperX Fury CL16 - Sapphire AMD Radeon 6950XT Nitro+ - 1TB Kingston Fury Renegade - 2TB Kingston Fury Renegade - 512GB ADATA SU800 - 960GB Kingston A400 - Seasonic PX-850 850W  - custom black ATX and EPS cables - Fractal Design Define R5 Blackout - Windows 11 x64 23H2 - 3 Arctic Cooling P14 PWM PST - 5 Arctic Cooling P12 PWM PST
  • Peripherals: LG 32GK650F - Dell P2319h - Logitech G Pro X Superlight with Tiger Ice - HyperX Alloy Origins Core (TKL) - EndGame Gear MPC890 - Genius HF 1250B - Akliam PD4 - Sennheiser HD 560s - Simgot EM6L - Truthear Zero - QKZ x HBB - 7Hz Salnotes Zero - Logitech C270 - Behringer PS400 - BM700  - Colormunki Smile - Speedlink Torid - Jysk Stenderup - LG 24x External DVD writer - Konig smart card reader
  • Laptop: Acer E5–575G-386R 15.6" 1080p (i3 6100U + 12GB DDR4 (4GB+8GB) + GeForce 940MX + 256GB nVME) Win 10 Pro x64 22H2 - Logitech G305 + AAA Lithium battery
  • Networking: Asus TUF Gaming AX6000 - Arcadyan ISP router - 35/5 Mbps vDSL
  • TV and gadgets: TCL 50EP680 50" 4K LED + Sharp HT-SB100 75W RMS soundbar - Samsung Galaxy Tab A8 10.1" - OnePlus 9 256GB - Olymous Cameda C-160 - GameBoy Color 
  • Streaming/Server/Storage PC: AMD Ryzen 5 3600 - LC-Power LC-CC-120 - MSI B450 Tomahawk Max - 2x4GB ADATA 2666 DDR4 - 120GB Kingston V300 - Toshiba DT01ACA100 1TB - Toshiba DT01ACA200 2TB - 2x WD Green 2TB - Sapphire Pulse AMD Radeon R9 380X - 550W EVGA G3 SuperNova - Chieftec Giga DF-01B - White Shark Spartan X keyboard - Roccat Kone Pure Military Desert strike - Logitech S-220 - Philips 226L
  • Livingroom PC (dad uses): AMD FX 8300 - Arctic Freezer 64 - Asus M5A97 R2.0 Evo - 2x4GB DDR3 1833 Kingston - MSI Radeon HD 7770 1GB OC - 120GB Adata SSD - 500W Fractal Design Essence - DVD-RW - Samsung SM 2253BW - Logitech G710+ - wireless vertical mouse - MS 2.0 speakers
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just lick the battery if it shocks you it is still ok !!! only way to free test button batteries without a volt meter !!! old school technique !!!

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Clear / reset the CMOS or set the BIOS settings to default.

My friend (last week?) finally upgraded his Ryzen 3600 to a 5800X3D we got for him for his birthday.

He's running a B450 Arous Elite so he had to update the BIOS first. Similar symptoms as you.

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17 hours ago, -rascal- said:

Clear / reset the CMOS or set the BIOS settings to default.

My friend (last week?) finally upgraded his Ryzen 3600 to a 5800X3D we got for him for his birthday.

He's running a B450 Arous Elite so he had to update the BIOS first. Similar symptoms as you.

I cleared CMOS and set to optimized defaults, no dice. I've also been on the latest bios for several weeks prior to swapping out CPUs

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