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Bought new keyboard and regret it (pls recommend something)

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6 hours ago, Im_Only_Human said:

Are the linear LK light strike switches on the EVGA Z20 any louder than the generic red switches on the K552?

Maybe slightly, but they shouldn't really.

 

As a side note, the sound you are hearing from your keyboard has mostly two/three origins:

  • Key bottoming out, meaning the moving stem hits the bottom of the housing
  • Key rebouncing, meaning when you release it the moving stem is hitting the upper housing as the spring pushes it up again
  • Click mechanisms, found in "clicky" siwitches that are designed to give an audible click on actuation of the switch (i.e. the moment the circuit is closed and the key press is registered) as opposed to on bottom out.

Now, the last one is obviously not present in linear or tactile switches, but the other two sources will be there. How loud they will be to you depends on how you type (two-finger-eagle-punch vs ten-finger-gentle-touch-type) and how the keyboard is constructed. This is also why lighter linear switches are perceived as more quiet, as they don't require as much force to press as a more aggressive tactile switch.

 

Things like how the PCB and plate holding the switches are mounted to the case (rigidly screwed in or held via a gasket mount), how the case is filled (hollow or filled with various dampeners or foam) and even what type of materials have been used, they all affect the sound level and pitch. Plus the keycaps can have a significant influence as well, mostly on the pitch of the sound.

 

There are however other solutions.

So-called "silent" switches are made with internal silicone or rubber dampeners, which cushion the impact on bottom out and release of the switch. These are the best mitigation option for making boards quiet.

 

So if this is a priority to you, look for boards that have either the option for silent switches, or even better would be to go with "hotswap" switches. The latter means the switches aren't soldered in, but only socketed and can easily replaced by the user without taking the whole board apart. While hotswap does exist for optical and HE switches, they are not compatible with other switches, so make sure it is for MX compatible mechanical switches. Then almost all mechanical switches should be compatible and you have tons of options for experimentation.

 

To give you an idea on the costs advantage here: Gateron G Pro 3.0 switches (which are really good) cost between $25-$35 per 110 switches, the most expensive ones go up to $1 per switch. Compared to buying a new keyboard this is much cheaper imho.

I recently bought an EVGA Z20 and it just got delivered. I bought it because I like EVGA and want to support the company (I’m a fanboy). I didn’t understand the difference between switches so I just got the cheaper version with clicky switches. I didn’t realize how loud clicky switches were. I love the keyboard for everything but its sound, but that’s a deal breaker for me so I’m gonna return it. My current keyboard is a Redragon K552 and it’s already loud enough. If I bought the linear version of the EVGA Z20, would it be just as loud as/quieter than the K552? If not, are there any EVGA keyboards that could suit that requirement? If not that, does any one have a good recommendation for a keyboard that is not annoyingly loud? (I live with family) (Under $90)

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Pretty much have to stick with a Cherry red style keyswitch, or the Speedswitch clears. They tend to be quiet.

 

Avoid Blues and blacks, they are the clicky ones, although every brand can change that so. Could always go for a used Corsair k70 Mk2, or like new on amazon for a larger discount. Other then that its going into the hell hole that is Mech keyboards and switches, with an absolute ton of choices to make.

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6 minutes ago, Shimejii said:

Other then that its going into the hell hole that is Mech keyboards and switches, with an absolute ton of choices to make.

Having recently gone into the rabbithole it really wasn't that bad. I killed my old G Pro X TKL that I had just put new switches into (alcohol is bad for keyboards mmkay), and it was pretty easy for me to find a keyboard I liked, that being a Keychron K8 Pro with the same Gateron G Yellow Pro 3.0s. The hardest part was fucking keycaps and I'm still not fully sold on the ones I have even though I love the overall look and feel of them.

 

Now I'm starting to entertain the idea of looking into some o-rings because while the sound I have now is super fucking nice I kinda wanna see just how far I can go down the silence rabbit hole. The keyboard already has foam AND silicone to dampen noise so I might as well lol

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Are the linear LK light strike switches on the EVGA Z20 any louder than the generic red switches on the K552? If so, I’ll probably go with the Corsair k70 mk.2 then. If not, I’m fine with keeping the same or slightly less volume level with the other Z20 variant.

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6 hours ago, Im_Only_Human said:

Are the linear LK light strike switches on the EVGA Z20 any louder than the generic red switches on the K552?

Maybe slightly, but they shouldn't really.

 

As a side note, the sound you are hearing from your keyboard has mostly two/three origins:

  • Key bottoming out, meaning the moving stem hits the bottom of the housing
  • Key rebouncing, meaning when you release it the moving stem is hitting the upper housing as the spring pushes it up again
  • Click mechanisms, found in "clicky" siwitches that are designed to give an audible click on actuation of the switch (i.e. the moment the circuit is closed and the key press is registered) as opposed to on bottom out.

Now, the last one is obviously not present in linear or tactile switches, but the other two sources will be there. How loud they will be to you depends on how you type (two-finger-eagle-punch vs ten-finger-gentle-touch-type) and how the keyboard is constructed. This is also why lighter linear switches are perceived as more quiet, as they don't require as much force to press as a more aggressive tactile switch.

 

Things like how the PCB and plate holding the switches are mounted to the case (rigidly screwed in or held via a gasket mount), how the case is filled (hollow or filled with various dampeners or foam) and even what type of materials have been used, they all affect the sound level and pitch. Plus the keycaps can have a significant influence as well, mostly on the pitch of the sound.

 

There are however other solutions.

So-called "silent" switches are made with internal silicone or rubber dampeners, which cushion the impact on bottom out and release of the switch. These are the best mitigation option for making boards quiet.

 

So if this is a priority to you, look for boards that have either the option for silent switches, or even better would be to go with "hotswap" switches. The latter means the switches aren't soldered in, but only socketed and can easily replaced by the user without taking the whole board apart. While hotswap does exist for optical and HE switches, they are not compatible with other switches, so make sure it is for MX compatible mechanical switches. Then almost all mechanical switches should be compatible and you have tons of options for experimentation.

 

To give you an idea on the costs advantage here: Gateron G Pro 3.0 switches (which are really good) cost between $25-$35 per 110 switches, the most expensive ones go up to $1 per switch. Compared to buying a new keyboard this is much cheaper imho.

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