Bought new keyboard and regret it (pls recommend something)
6 hours ago, Im_Only_Human said:Are the linear LK light strike switches on the EVGA Z20 any louder than the generic red switches on the K552?
Maybe slightly, but they shouldn't really.
As a side note, the sound you are hearing from your keyboard has mostly two/three origins:
- Key bottoming out, meaning the moving stem hits the bottom of the housing
- Key rebouncing, meaning when you release it the moving stem is hitting the upper housing as the spring pushes it up again
- Click mechanisms, found in "clicky" siwitches that are designed to give an audible click on actuation of the switch (i.e. the moment the circuit is closed and the key press is registered) as opposed to on bottom out.
Now, the last one is obviously not present in linear or tactile switches, but the other two sources will be there. How loud they will be to you depends on how you type (two-finger-eagle-punch vs ten-finger-gentle-touch-type) and how the keyboard is constructed. This is also why lighter linear switches are perceived as more quiet, as they don't require as much force to press as a more aggressive tactile switch.
Things like how the PCB and plate holding the switches are mounted to the case (rigidly screwed in or held via a gasket mount), how the case is filled (hollow or filled with various dampeners or foam) and even what type of materials have been used, they all affect the sound level and pitch. Plus the keycaps can have a significant influence as well, mostly on the pitch of the sound.
There are however other solutions.
So-called "silent" switches are made with internal silicone or rubber dampeners, which cushion the impact on bottom out and release of the switch. These are the best mitigation option for making boards quiet.
So if this is a priority to you, look for boards that have either the option for silent switches, or even better would be to go with "hotswap" switches. The latter means the switches aren't soldered in, but only socketed and can easily replaced by the user without taking the whole board apart. While hotswap does exist for optical and HE switches, they are not compatible with other switches, so make sure it is for MX compatible mechanical switches. Then almost all mechanical switches should be compatible and you have tons of options for experimentation.
To give you an idea on the costs advantage here: Gateron G Pro 3.0 switches (which are really good) cost between $25-$35 per 110 switches, the most expensive ones go up to $1 per switch. Compared to buying a new keyboard this is much cheaper imho.
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