Weird GPU issues

[Yoshimitsu]

I built a custom water-cooling loop with hard tubes.

 

When I finished everything, the GPU would just crash during games; the screen got black (no signal - entering power saving mode), and the only way to fix it was to reboot.

 

This issue got only worse over time; the screen would just go black after the Windows boot screen.

It was clearly a GPU issue because if I connected my monitor to the motherboard via displayport, everything was working fine.

So I sent the GPU in for repair. I obviously cleaned the GPU and put on the original cooling block beforehand.

 

The repair technician disassembled the GPU, cleaned everything, and the GPU works fine. I don't know for how long he tested the GPU, but he sent me a video of him playing a game with my GPU installed.

He sends me the GPU back. I put on the waterblock again, filled and bled the loop, and so on. I get into Windows, I test with Furmark, and after 5 minutes, the screen goes black. I reboot my PC and I get no signal on my monitor, and like before, if I connect the monitor to my motherboard with the same cable, it works just fine.

 

The temperature never exceeded 40 degrees C. Even before I sent it in for repair.

Any suggestions? 

 

System:

3060ti founders edition with Bykski waterblock and Upsiren thermal putty.

Seasonic 550W psu platinum rated.

32GB ddr5 by Gskill Trident Z

Mobo: Asus B650E Strix

Ryzen 7800x3D

[OddOod]

First, that's a gorgeous build
Second, I suspect the powersupply. 550W is low for that rig.
Third, what does HWMonitor say is limiting the GPU while you're stressing it?

Fourth, hardline rig with a 3060ti is an interesting choice. 

[OddOod]

Oh, and while you're in HWmonitor, check the other temp probes. the die might be 45C but hotspot could be way higher

[Yoshimitsu]

11 minutes ago, OddOod said:

First, that's a gorgeous build
Second, I suspect the powersupply. 550W is low for that rig.
Third, what does HWMonitor say is limiting the GPU while you're stressing it?

Fourth, hardline rig with a 3060ti is an interesting choice. 

Unfortunately, I can't provide you that info because the screen just stays black - I can't power on my PC. 

 

I still had all the components for a hardline loop from a previous build and 3060ti was all I could afford because of the Covid Crisis. I have no air conditioning in my room so keeping PC temps as low as possible is nice.

 

Regarding the PSU wattage, I suppose I could try to use my very old 750W SuperFlower PSU. But, if it really was just a PSU issue I would still be able to at least enter Windows.  As I mentioned, the screen just stays black when powering on my PC. Or is my assumption incorrect?

 

(sorry for the empty quote window, not sure how to remove it).

11 minutes ago, OddOod said:

 

 

[OddOod]

Hmmm. Can you reassemble with the air cooler and see if that works? 
Also, you say that if you go off the mobo it works fine? That's interesting. 

Oooh, also, when you boot, does it fully boot, fans spinning and everything just no display? Because that could be a monitor or cable problem. And if you happen to have a remote desktop installed on it, you could try remoting in while it's booted to poke around

[OddOod]

6 minutes ago, Yoshimitsu said:

I have no air conditioning in my room so keeping PC temps as low as possible is nice.

Oh, yeah, watercooling isn't going to help that. In fact it's going to make it worse. Custom loop cooling keeps the components cooler by moving the heat into your room more efficiently and quietly, yielding better performance which means everything can pull more power. But every watt of power you use turns into a watt of heat energy that gets kicked into your room. Also you add an extra 20ish watts of heat just running the pump. 
If you want less heat you could look into underclocking which sacrifices a bit of performance for often significantly less power draw

[Yoshimitsu]

16 minutes ago, OddOod said:

Oh, yeah, watercooling isn't going to help that. In fact it's going to make it worse. Custom loop cooling keeps the components cooler by moving the heat into your room more efficiently and quietly, yielding better performance which means everything can pull more power. But every watt of power you use turns into a watt of heat energy that gets kicked into your room. Also you add an extra 20ish watts of heat just running the pump. 
If you want less heat you could look into underclocking which sacrifices a bit of performance for often significantly less power draw

Hmm you might be right, but honestly. I put so much effort and encountered so many stumbling blocks creating all this that I honestly don't want to go back to air cooling because then all my efforts would be pretty much in vain. Getting it to work has gotten almost personal at this point

 

Yes, I can mount the stock air cooler again see if it works. I guess that's the only variable left. I will report back tomorrow. With Thermal Putty should be fine, no? My application looked reasonable.

[OddOod]

I know the feel. I've fought tooth and nail with my water cooled rig. Ended up breaking down and switching to softline and it runs like a dream

 

Also, *definitely* try different cables, ports, and displays. Peep my other comment

[Bagzie]

Hard tubing on a 3060ti is like putting a go faster stripe on a moped.

 

That said to each there own and I suspect the gpu may require an rma , Have fun reassembling that 3060's stock cooler.

[Yoshimitsu]

On 1/2/2024 at 12:12 PM, Bagzie said:

Hard tubing on a 3060ti is like putting a go faster stripe on a moped.

 

That said to each there own and I suspect the gpu may require an rma , Have fun reassembling that 3060's stock cooler.

Doesn't feel like you've read much of what I wrote regarding the reasons why I got into water-cooling.

 

On 12/28/2023 at 5:37 PM, OddOod said:

I know the feel. I've fought tooth and nail with my water cooled rig. Ended up breaking down and switching to softline and it runs like a dream

 

Also, *definitely* try different cables, ports, and displays. Peep my other comment

 

I got it to work now. I run 1 hour of Furmark no crashes temps not over 40 degrees.

 

3 things that I did:

 

1. Removed the sleeved GPU power extension cable. So, only one cable from PSU to GPU.

2. Even tho I thiurougly bled the loop when filling, I wanted to once more make sure there weren't any air bubbles trapped in the loop. And indeed there were, when I got them out the flow accelerated and even more bubbles came out.

3. Tried different PC power cord (hardly the issue tho)

 

I hope it work fine, after 1h of Furmark I am quite optimistic.

 

Thanks a lot for the suggestions.

[OddOod]

20 hours ago, Yoshimitsu said:

1. Removed the sleeved GPU power extension cable. So, only one cable from PSU to GPU.

That's disconcerting....
If you have the spare cash, I'd definitely consider the next upgrade be replacing the PSU with a new 1000W unit just to be set up  for future expansion and to eliminate the PSU as a potential source of issues

 

[LOST TALE]

Don't use the oven (in the winter)!!! it's wasting power!! /using electric heating for whole home.