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Solar Mini-splits in garage.

I've been researching and planning to insulate and put solar mini-splits in my garage soon, Can anyone please assist me with if everything here looks fine/ready to purchase/use?

 

(Putting 2 mini-splits in garage to be ran on solely solar)

 

2x mini-split - https://signaturesolar.com/eg4-hybrid-ac-dc-solar-air-conditioner-1-ton/
12x panels - https://www.santansolar.com/product/new-ssb-series-380w-solar-panel-grade-b/
2x Mini-split mounting - https://www.amazon.com/BRACKET-SPLIT-330LBS-APAB-3160-BRACKETS/dp/B01ELP98RK/?th=1
?x some extension cables - https://www.santansolar.com/product/pair-of-solar-panel-extension-cables-pv-10awg/
2x solar mounting on garage roof - https://www.amazon.com/BougeRV-Solar-Mounting-Bracket-Supporting/dp/B07Z4J5JCD/?th=1
1x sealant since prob drill in roof - https://www.amazon.com/Sashco-Through-Sealant-Cartridge-Clear/dp/B001UHX85Q/
1x nuts/set - https://www.amazon.com/Repairing-Suitable-Electric-Screwdriver-Pneumatic/dp/B081TGRW5B

 

each mini-split has Max VOC of 380v and max A of 12? (i think 12),
these panels are 45.13 V (voc) / 10.5A (ISC) each

 

So i planned on having 6 panels (series) to each mini-split, that would be 270V / 10.5A, and theoretical 2,280w, that way even at half solar efficiency, these mini-splits would be able to be at their max wattage. (i know that waste half my Watts if they are getting very good efficiency, but oh well, also, i don't want to worry about batteries/inverters/etc now, and for now this is cheaper)  

 

The following is info i don't think is needed, but i'll share it incase it's somehow useful:

 

Extra info 1 - I was going to use one 24k mini, but i figured (i didn't/don't know), that splitting the cooling to each half of the garage might be ideal, also 24k uses like 2x the watts, however i can only add like 2 more panels (for total of 8) before i reach the voltage limit, though i'm not sure if the max Amp is 12, maybe i looked at the wrong number and i could have the 24k in series/parallel and be fine, but i do like the idea of splitting the cooling, unless it's VASTLY inefficient, compared to just "a few hundred more expensive".

 

Extra info 2 - The 6 panels will be on each side of my garage roof, However i don't think one of the Sides of the roof, faces where the sun rises... Like when the sun is rising it is in line with the straight up point of the roof, if you get what i'm saying? (My Yard is not big enough to have the panels on the ground, and also if they were they would be heavily shaded by nearby buildings).

 

Extra info 3 - There is Zero shade that will be on any of the series panels, if on the Garage roof.

EG4-12K-BTU-AC-DC-Plug-N-Cool-Solar-AC-Spec-Sheet-2.1.1.pdf

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Wouldnt it make more sense to have a solar installation that goes into the grid so these are always operational even when not enough energy is generated?

 

Then you also get some credit back for the energy you put in the grid and you can use these when it's dark.

 

Your setup should work as is however keep in mind if the inverter in this stuff goes out it's basically time to toss it all.

 

Of course if this is an of grid you dont have much choice.

 

 

Small tips:

 

Spend a bit more on high quality mounting roof hardware that goes deep enough. Those seem a bit cheap and low end. As well as not going so deep.

 

Pre drill a small guide hole, caulk in it, drill the screw mostly down (1/3 left) and caulk around it already. Forces some in the hole and offers better protection besides just having it on there. Rubber/silicone (UV PROOF!!!!!) washers between the roof and the screw/metal also help heaps.

 

Get a decent bits set. This generic stuff will warp with force and make it magnetic. Will save you from insanity.

 

Oh and of course make sure you have some good gloves ans do it on a overcast day because these panels get HOT as well as plenty of water and good sunscreen 😛

 

 

 

 

 

 

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10 hours ago, jaslion said:

Wouldnt it make more sense to have a solar installation that goes into the grid so these are always operational even when not enough energy is generated?

 

Then you also get some credit back for the energy you put in the grid and you can use these when it's dark.

 

Your setup should work as is however keep in mind if the inverter in this stuff goes out it's basically time to toss it all.

 

Of course if this is an of grid you dont have much choice.

 

 

Small tips:

 

Spend a bit more on high quality mounting roof hardware that goes deep enough. Those seem a bit cheap and low end. As well as not going so deep.

 

Pre drill a small guide hole, caulk in it, drill the screw mostly down (1/3 left) and caulk around it already. Forces some in the hole and offers better protection besides just having it on there. Rubber/silicone (UV PROOF!!!!!) washers between the roof and the screw/metal also help heaps.

 

Get a decent bits set. This generic stuff will warp with force and make it magnetic. Will save you from insanity.

 

Oh and of course make sure you have some good gloves ans do it on a overcast day because these panels get HOT as well as plenty of water and good sunscreen 😛

 

 

 

 

 

 

Sorry for late reply, Thanks a lot for replying/helping 🙂
More questions i have are in green, to separate them from my wall of text. 

 

Some reasons for no grid / doing what i have planned:

1 - I can likely do all of this myself, except for evacuating the lines that i think these EG4's Need done by a hvac person. 

2 - This entire setup will be like $5,000 before i find someone to evacuate lines, Solar people that could do a grid tie around here, tell you not to even ask about price, because if your asking about price you can't afford it/etc.

2.1 - It *might* be cheaper than what i'm thinking for someone to make what i would get, grid tie, however i could also just plug these mini-splits into the 110v outlets nearest to them, and from what i've heard, any wattage they aren't getting from outside, they will pull from wall. [so i might do that, i think only 50A break panel inside the garage and other half is being used by stuff, not sure how much both these would draw, i could always put them on Smart Outlets though or i think schedule them in app to turn off when it gets to certain time, that way i don't stack that high of a bill]

2.2 - I LOVE the cold, can always put on more clothes and all that, and i hear these mini-splits are super efficient for heating, i'm mostly worried about summer time and making sure i don't sweat *too* much.

3 - I'm imagining they almost always being on in the daytime, since the theoretical max of the panels will be 2x+ that of the max wattage of each mini-split, so hopefully even if it's cloudy they can still put out decent air temp; and i imagine when it's super hot/sunny out (when i would need AC most) is when my panels would be working their best and mini-splits cooling best). 

 

"inverter in this stuff goes out it's basically time to toss it all."

(1.) Do the connected panels also die if the inverter dies? 

That's another reason i wanted 2 12k units, incase one unit dies i still have *some* cooling from the other, and like if the inverter on one dies, i'm only out half of my $5k investment (if panels included in that half)

 

"high quality mounting roof hardware that goes deep enough"

(2.) I'm not asking you to do research for me, but for the roofing hardware, i could probably just buy some new bolts and use everything else in that kit right? 

Like i think the small hex they want same length for clearance tolerances or whatever, but longer hex for building could be replaced with these? - 

8" - https://www.menards.com/main/hardware/fasteners-connectors/bolts/lag-screws/midwest-fastener-reg-3-4-grade-2-zinc-hex-head-lag-screws/01365/p-1444439626001-c-8742.htm 

 

(3.) For those Giant/long Hex bolts, should i buy a Wired/wireless hammer drill? i have a normal cheapo drill that i doubt would be up for the task of those giant bolts?

 

"Pre drill a small guide hole, caulk in it, drill the screw mostly down (1/3 left) and caulk around it already. Forces some in the hole and offers better protection besides just having it on there. Rubber/silicone (UV PROOF!!!!!) washers between the roof and the screw/metal also help heaps.

 

Get a decent bits set. This generic stuff will warp with force and make it magnetic. Will save you from insanity.

 

Oh and of course make sure you have some good gloves ans do it on a overcast day because these panels get HOT as well as plenty of water and good sunscreen"


Ayy, Thank you so much !! Super helpfull 🙂

 

(4.) (Washers like these [since i don't know thickness of bolt/screws yet?]

3/4 - https://www.menards.com/main/hardware/fasteners-connectors/washers-spacers/flat-washers/midwest-fastener-reg-3-4-rubber-flat-washers/64347/p-1444439895950-c-8945.htm

1/2 - https://www.menards.com/main/hardware/fasteners-connectors/washers-spacers/flat-washers/midwest-fastener-reg-1-4-rubber-flat-washers/64341/p-1444439904318-c-8945.htm

 

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5 hours ago, Neko_UwU said:

tell you not to even ask about price, because if your asking about price you can't afford it/etc.

Thats a typical intimidation trick know that all too well. Use differenr language and demand a quote.

 

5 hours ago, Neko_UwU said:

so hopefully even if it's cloudy they can still put out decent air temp; and i imagine when it's super hot/sunny

Solar panels dont do well in heat. They drop quite a bit in efficieny when hot. There is also the issue that you will have very fluxuating power and this will mean a lot of off and on of the mini splits. So I do highly advice a simple battery as constant unplanned on and off is going to wear out this stuff quickly.

 

5 hours ago, Neko_UwU said:

Do the connected panels also die if the inverter dies? 

No sorry meant the mini split since its all integrated in it basically

 

5 hours ago, Neko_UwU said:

m not asking you to do research for me, but for the roofing hardware, i could probably just buy some new bolts and use everything else in that kit right? 

Like i think the small hex they want same length for clearance tolerances or whatever, but longer hex for building could be replaced with these? - 

8" - https://www.menards.com/main/hardware/fasteners-connectors/bolts/lag-screws/midwest-fastener-reg-3-4-grade-2-zinc-hex-head-lag-screws/01365/p-1444439626001-c-8742.htm 

Yeah basically. But you can also quickly test the mounting hardware before installation by dumping a couple in dirty water for some days and leaving them in the sun (rust check) and trying to bend a couple. If they snap from just you having not too much for on em then id say yeah thats bad. If they dont rust and dont snap with heaps of might you should be fine

 

5 hours ago, Neko_UwU said:

For those Giant/long Hex bolts, should i buy a Wired/wireless hammer drill? i have a normal cheapo drill that i doubt would be up for the task of those giant bolts?

I use wireless ones. I dont have a favorite. Basically just pick one brand and stick with that so you have always the same batteries. Research the tool and dont be afraid of going used tons of lightly used stuff is thrown out.

 

Most bigger brands like hitachi, bosch, keyang, panasonic,... are quite easy to repair if anything happens.

5 hours ago, Neko_UwU said:

Washers like these [since i don't know thickness of bolt/screws yet?]

Yup

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