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CPU gets 100 degrees when using cinerbench

colaexotic
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Go to solution Solved by 191x7,

That CPU requires a decent 280mm AIO or better.

The Noctua NH-D15S is too weak for it even with a LGA1700 contact frame installed.

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Hello!

 

It feels like I have tried everything but when running cinebench my CPU gets to 100 degrees in like 5 seconds. I just updated the system with CPU, motherboard and RAM. Initially I thought it was the CPU cooler so I have switched from a corsair watercooler to a Noctua NH-D15S but the problem remains. I have tried 3 different pastes and I have put the CPU cooler in all different directions. I have tried with the GPU fans on 0-100%. I have tried with closed sidepanels on the chassi and open sidepanels. I have tried to turn the chassi fans from 0 to 100%. Is it possible that the CPU got fried the first time it reached 100 degrees and now its just useless? It still have good speed and its 32 degrees when idle. The Chassi fans is installed in the built in fan controller.  I have tried to connect that to both FAN_1 and CPU_OPT. I dont know what program to use to control them but all fans are spinning. I have downloaded fan control but it only finds CPU and GPU fans. I understand that you might need more information but maybe we can start with this. I am using Intel ETU to check on the temperatures and loads. It is NOT overclocked.

 

SETUP:

OS: Windows 10, I can update to 11 if needed. 

MOBO: Asus prime z790-p WIFI

CPU: i9 12900k

GPU: Gigabyte RTX3080

RAM: FURY 32GB DDR5 6400Mhz

PSU: Corsair RM750X

Chassi: NZXT Noctis 450 ROG

CPU cooler: Noctua NH-D15S

Chassi fans:

- 3 120mm front intake

- 1 150mm back exhaust

- 2  120mm top exhaust.

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You may not have manually overclocked it, but I wouldn't doubt if the board has some of the stupid multi-core enhancement nonsense turned on by default. Those things always dump an obscene amount of voltage to ensure that even the most garbage samples can hit the "hehe funy numer" that everyone likes to see.

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Knowing the package power while the test is running is the key to know why this is happening. The board is likely blowing past Intels power recommendations. HWiNFO will give you all the stats you need.

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  • Solution

That CPU requires a decent 280mm AIO or better.

The Noctua NH-D15S is too weak for it even with a LGA1700 contact frame installed.

M.S.C.E. (M.Sc. Computer Engineering), IT specialist in a hospital, 30+ years of gaming, 20+ years of computer enthusiasm, Geek, Trekkie, anime fan

  • Main PC: AMD Ryzen 7 5800X3D - EK AIO 360 D-RGB - Arctic Cooling MX-4 - Asus Prime X570-P - 4x8GB DDR4 3200 HyperX Fury CL16 - Sapphire AMD Radeon 6950XT Nitro+ - 1TB Kingston Fury Renegade - 2TB Kingston Fury Renegade - 512GB ADATA SU800 - 960GB Kingston A400 - Seasonic PX-850 850W  - custom black ATX and EPS cables - Fractal Design Define R5 Blackout - Windows 11 x64 23H2 - 3 Arctic Cooling P14 PWM PST - 5 Arctic Cooling P12 PWM PST
  • Peripherals: LG 32GK650F - Dell P2319h - Logitech G Pro X Superlight with Tiger Ice - HyperX Alloy Origins Core (TKL) - EndGame Gear MPC890 - Genius HF 1250B - Akliam PD4 - Sennheiser HD 560s - Simgot EM6L - Truthear Zero - QKZ x HBB - 7Hz Salnotes Zero - Logitech C270 - Behringer PS400 - BM700  - Colormunki Smile - Speedlink Torid - Jysk Stenderup - LG 24x External DVD writer - Konig smart card reader
  • Laptop: Acer E5–575G-386R 15.6" 1080p (i3 6100U + 12GB DDR4 (4GB+8GB) + GeForce 940MX + 256GB nVME) Win 10 Pro x64 22H2 - Logitech G305 + AAA Lithium battery
  • Networking: Asus TUF Gaming AX6000 - Arcadyan ISP router - 35/5 Mbps vDSL
  • TV and gadgets: TCL 50EP680 50" 4K LED + Sharp HT-SB100 75W RMS soundbar - Samsung Galaxy Tab A8 10.1" - OnePlus 9 256GB - Olymous Cameda C-160 - GameBoy Color 
  • Streaming/Server/Storage PC: AMD Ryzen 5 3600 - LC-Power LC-CC-120 - MSI B450 Tomahawk Max - 2x4GB ADATA 2666 DDR4 - 120GB Kingston V300 - Toshiba DT01ACA100 1TB - Toshiba DT01ACA200 2TB - 2x WD Green 2TB - Sapphire Pulse AMD Radeon R9 380X - 550W EVGA G3 SuperNova - Chieftec Giga DF-01B - White Shark Spartan X keyboard - Roccat Kone Pure Military Desert strike - Logitech S-220 - Philips 226L
  • Livingroom PC (dad uses): AMD FX 8300 - Arctic Freezer 64 - Asus M5A97 R2.0 Evo - 2x4GB DDR3 1833 Kingston - MSI Radeon HD 7770 1GB OC - 120GB Adata SSD - 500W Fractal Design Essence - DVD-RW - Samsung SM 2253BW - Logitech G710+ - wireless vertical mouse - MS 2.0 speakers
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1 minute ago, GuiltySpark_ said:

Knowing the package power while the test is running is the key to know why this is happening. The board is likely blowing past Intels power recommendations. HWiNFO will give you all the stats you need.

I think you are right. at 1,35V its using 238W. I suppose I can change this in BIOS

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2 minutes ago, colaexotic said:

I think you are right. at 1,35V its using 238W. I suppose I can change this in BIOS

If you poke around the BIOS, you should find an option to change that either under the CPU menu, Overclocking, or whatever Asus' equivalents are.

Quote or tag me( @Crunchy Dragon) if you want me to see your reply

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2 minutes ago, 191x7 said:

That CPU requires a decent 280mm AIO or better.

The Noctua NH-D15S is too weak for it even with a LGA1700 contact frame installed.

I see. So I should buy a NH-D15 then? To be honest, that what I tought I bought. I got confused that it only had 1 fan.  Since I just bought a NH-D15S. Is it the same thing to just add another fan on that cooler or do I need to buy a new one? 

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1.35v under load seems high; but your package power seems about right.

 

When I run my i7-13700KF (same core count as your 12900k) it will hit around 80c on a single pass CBR23, topping out at around 241w. But it is only 1.26v under load. And a 360mm AIO quiet profile.

Before you reply to my post, REFRESH. 99.99% chance I edited my post. 

 

My System: i7-13700KF // Corsair iCUE H150i Elite Capellix // MSI MPG Z690 Edge Wifi // 32GB DDR5 G. SKILL RIPJAWS S5 6000 CL32 // Nvidia RTX 4070 Super FE // Corsair 5000D Airflow // Corsair SP120 RGB Pro x7 // Seasonic Focus Plus Gold 850w //1TB ADATA XPG SX8200 Pro/1TB Teamgroup MP33/2TB Seagate 7200RPM Hard Drive // Displays: LG Ultragear 32GP83B x2 // Royal Kludge RK100 // Logitech G Pro X Superlight // Sennheiser DROP PC38x

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Thank you for all your answers, I will rotate the cooler so its mounted front to back again and take my rear exhaust fan and mount it to my CPU-cooler with a cat strangeling device and see it it gets any better. If not, I will try to limit the CPU in BIOS, if it still does not work I will buy th Nh-d15 as my home made solution its probably not as good as buying it.

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18 minutes ago, colaexotic said:

Thank you for all your answers, I will rotate the cooler so its mounted front to back again and take my rear exhaust fan and mount it to my CPU-cooler with a cat strangeling device and see it it gets any better. If not, I will try to limit the CPU in BIOS, if it still does not work I will buy th Nh-d15 as my home made solution its probably not as good as buying it.

IMO don't buy that. Air coolers will not perform very well on these chips. 

Before you reply to my post, REFRESH. 99.99% chance I edited my post. 

 

My System: i7-13700KF // Corsair iCUE H150i Elite Capellix // MSI MPG Z690 Edge Wifi // 32GB DDR5 G. SKILL RIPJAWS S5 6000 CL32 // Nvidia RTX 4070 Super FE // Corsair 5000D Airflow // Corsair SP120 RGB Pro x7 // Seasonic Focus Plus Gold 850w //1TB ADATA XPG SX8200 Pro/1TB Teamgroup MP33/2TB Seagate 7200RPM Hard Drive // Displays: LG Ultragear 32GP83B x2 // Royal Kludge RK100 // Logitech G Pro X Superlight // Sennheiser DROP PC38x

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The temperature got better at around 92 degrees. I understand that it is not optimal but at least I know that the cooler is the issue. I will check reviews  to find the best cooler for my system. The NH-D15 seems to be top 5 on most reviews though. 

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I will repeat, the best Air cooler is not enough for that CPU.

M.S.C.E. (M.Sc. Computer Engineering), IT specialist in a hospital, 30+ years of gaming, 20+ years of computer enthusiasm, Geek, Trekkie, anime fan

  • Main PC: AMD Ryzen 7 5800X3D - EK AIO 360 D-RGB - Arctic Cooling MX-4 - Asus Prime X570-P - 4x8GB DDR4 3200 HyperX Fury CL16 - Sapphire AMD Radeon 6950XT Nitro+ - 1TB Kingston Fury Renegade - 2TB Kingston Fury Renegade - 512GB ADATA SU800 - 960GB Kingston A400 - Seasonic PX-850 850W  - custom black ATX and EPS cables - Fractal Design Define R5 Blackout - Windows 11 x64 23H2 - 3 Arctic Cooling P14 PWM PST - 5 Arctic Cooling P12 PWM PST
  • Peripherals: LG 32GK650F - Dell P2319h - Logitech G Pro X Superlight with Tiger Ice - HyperX Alloy Origins Core (TKL) - EndGame Gear MPC890 - Genius HF 1250B - Akliam PD4 - Sennheiser HD 560s - Simgot EM6L - Truthear Zero - QKZ x HBB - 7Hz Salnotes Zero - Logitech C270 - Behringer PS400 - BM700  - Colormunki Smile - Speedlink Torid - Jysk Stenderup - LG 24x External DVD writer - Konig smart card reader
  • Laptop: Acer E5–575G-386R 15.6" 1080p (i3 6100U + 12GB DDR4 (4GB+8GB) + GeForce 940MX + 256GB nVME) Win 10 Pro x64 22H2 - Logitech G305 + AAA Lithium battery
  • Networking: Asus TUF Gaming AX6000 - Arcadyan ISP router - 35/5 Mbps vDSL
  • TV and gadgets: TCL 50EP680 50" 4K LED + Sharp HT-SB100 75W RMS soundbar - Samsung Galaxy Tab A8 10.1" - OnePlus 9 256GB - Olymous Cameda C-160 - GameBoy Color 
  • Streaming/Server/Storage PC: AMD Ryzen 5 3600 - LC-Power LC-CC-120 - MSI B450 Tomahawk Max - 2x4GB ADATA 2666 DDR4 - 120GB Kingston V300 - Toshiba DT01ACA100 1TB - Toshiba DT01ACA200 2TB - 2x WD Green 2TB - Sapphire Pulse AMD Radeon R9 380X - 550W EVGA G3 SuperNova - Chieftec Giga DF-01B - White Shark Spartan X keyboard - Roccat Kone Pure Military Desert strike - Logitech S-220 - Philips 226L
  • Livingroom PC (dad uses): AMD FX 8300 - Arctic Freezer 64 - Asus M5A97 R2.0 Evo - 2x4GB DDR3 1833 Kingston - MSI Radeon HD 7770 1GB OC - 120GB Adata SSD - 500W Fractal Design Essence - DVD-RW - Samsung SM 2253BW - Logitech G710+ - wireless vertical mouse - MS 2.0 speakers
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