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DRAM LED On with B650 AORUS Elite AX & G.Skill DDR5

zapherix

I’ve got an issue that I haven’t been able to resolve or find more information on. I built this PC following the manual from the Gigabyte website: https://www.gigabyte.com/Motherboard/B650-AORUS-ELITE-AX-rev-1x/support#support-manual.

 

Here’s the build, all parts were brand new bought via combination of Amazon, Newegg, and BB – all looked unused, so I’m not suspecting an issue where I received a used or old part.

  • Motherboard: GIGABYTE B650 AORUS ELITE AX AM5 (PN: 12BB1-EB650ELX-01DR)
  • Processor: AMD Ryzen™ 9 7900X 12-Core (PN: 100-10000589WOF)
  • RAM: G.SKILL Trident Z5 Neo Series AMD EXPO 32GB (PN: F5-6000J3038F16GX2-TZ5N)
  • GPU: NVIDIA - GeForce RTX 4090 24GB GDDR6X
  • CPU Cooler: ARCTIC Liquid Freezer II 360 A-RGB    
  • SSD: SAMSUNG 980 PRO SSD 2TB PCIe NVMe Gen 4 Gaming M.2 (PN: MZ-V8P2T0B)
  • Case: Be quiet! Dark Base PRO 900 Black Rev. 2    

 

Symptoms:

  • Put together the build in the PC case, powered on and did not see POST (monitor cable is plugged into the graphcs card). 
  • Waited a few minutes (thinking this was the memory training I should wait for to finish), and saw that the DRAM light is on
  • While computer is on, all fans (CPU cooler, case fans, and GPU fans) are all spinning, LEDs are on for components that have them, and the CPU cooler pump is also on
  • The manual only “helpfully” indicates that “If the CPU/DRAM/VGA LED is on, that means the corresponding device is not working normally”
  • Turned off computer, noticed that the RAM was installed into the two non-preferred slots (A1 and B1), so I moved them to the preferred slots per the manual (A2 and B2), and rebooted
  • Same symptoms, but now that I was paying attention to the LEDs, I noticed that when power is applied first the CPU LED turns on briefly, then turns off while DRAM LED turns on, then they switch back to CPU LED on, and finally back again to DRAM LED on at which point the DRAM LED stays on continually.

The memory support list on the Gigabyte website lists the RAM in the compatibility list (https://www.gigabyte.com/Motherboard/B650-AORUS-ELITE-AX-rev-1x/support#support-memsup), and should be compatible.

 

Troubleshooting So Far (for every one of these, the symptoms are the same – power on does not show POST, the LEDs swich from CPU>DRAM>CPU>DRAM very quickly when power turns on, and then DRAM light stays on continually):

  • Swapped both sticks of memory to every combination of the 4 slots
  • Swapped each of the two sticks individually into every slot (only 1 stick is installed)
  • Loosened CPU cooler screws slightly (read somewhere that a tighter seal may cause DRAM light to be on) 
  • Installed 2 new RAM sticks with the same make/model. After first placement into recommended slots, left PC on for nearly 2 hours (thinking I may have messed up the first pair and they needed memory training)
  • Repeated swapping both of the new sticks into every combination of 4 slots
  • Repeated swapping each of the new sticks individually into every slot (only 1 stick is installed)

 

I then went through the list on the motherboard troubleshooting post for “The machine does power up, but my screen remains black (no POST).”

  1. Make sure your BIOS version is compatible with the CPU generation you're trying to run in your motherboard, you can consult the manual or the manufacturer's website about this. (fairly sure the BIOS is compatible with CPU generation, since this is the only processor generation that is applicable for this motherboard)
  2. Check if EVERY power cable is connected. Auxiliary power connectors included. (all power cables are connected)
  3. Make sure the cable coming from your monitor is attached securely to the graphics card. Also make sure it is securely attached to the monitor itself. (securely attached on both ends, and the monitor does work as I’ve used it with other computers)
  4. Make sure your PSU is powerful enough to power your complete system. (check – the PSU is specifically chosen for this GPU/CPU combination with plenty of headroom)
  5. Try booting the system with only a monitor but no other peripherals connected. (check – same issue, no difference)
  6. Make sure your monitor works by testing it on a different computer (check – monitor has been used for nearly 7 years with no problems, tried both DP and HDMI)
  7. If you have both a dedicated GPU and an iGPU, try your monitor on both the outputs on the graphics cards as well as on the motherboard. (N/A)
  8. Make sure all connectors and cables are plugged in securely, reseat if necessary. (plugged in)
  9. Make sure your RAM, CPU and GPU are plugged in securely, reseat if necessary. (plugged in)
  10. If the motherboard you're using has debug LEDs, check the error code and consult the motherboard manual to see what it means. (couldn’t find any info about what this particular sequence of LEDs means…)
  11. If you have a debug speaker connected to the motherboard, note the beep sequence and consult the motherboard manual (no speaker, no beeps)
  12. Try clearing your CMOS (tried clearing this via the two pins indicated in the manual - both before and after removing the GPU, still same issue)
  13. Try booting your computer with only a motherboard, CPU and one stick of RAM attached (tried this without the GPU, same issue).
  14. Make sure your GPU works, try it in another computer. (don’t have another compatible motherboard for a 4090)
  15. Make sure your RAM works, try it another computer. (don’t have another compatible motherboard for DDR5)
  16. Make sure the RAM is compatible with your CPU and your motherboard. (check – RAM appears on list of compatible parts for motherboard, see link above)

 

At this point, not really sure what else to try – it seems to be something independent of the memory, because I’ve tried 2 pairs of brand new “sealed in the box” sticks, but still can’t get the PC to POST. Different sites list solutions from “get different RAM manufacturer” to “the motherboard has a short and you can do nothing about this” to “it could be anything”. Gigabyte website doesn’t seem to have any troubleshooting steps. Another guy on YT did a very similar build (https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=pnoMOOyeuZE) that seemed to work (same motherboard, processor, and almost identical RAM), but I continue to have issues. Any ideas?

 

2/10/23 EDIT - added CMOS reset, GPU removal, and DP/HDMI cable switch to troubleshooting (issue still persists)

Edited by zapherix
Missing Title, Additional Troubleshooting
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That is a pretty low-end board compared to the CPU and GPU... but it should work...

 

Try not installing the GPU, plug your monitor into the mobo's video out, and then try just wait for about 5 minutes for memory training.DDR5 famously have long training time for first boot, and this also apply if you only have one stick installed.

 

If you did and still no post, try RMA the board (or return though your merchant), because chances of both "new" RAM sticks are broken is low, and CPU were less likely to die compared to the mobo.

If it still doesn't post, your CPU might be dead.

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"

  1. Try clearing your CMOS (not sure how to do this – pushing the “reset” button on the motherboard results in reboot & same issue)"

For that board, you need to use a metal object to connect the 2 pins on the lower right hand corner of the board.  Identify them in the manual.

 

1 minute ago, Supersonicwolfe said:

That is a pretty low-end board compared to the CPU and GPU... but it should work...

 

Try not installing the GPU, plug your monitor into the mobo's video out, and then try just wait for about 5 minutes for memory training.DDR5 famously have long training time for first boot, and this also apply if you only have one stick installed.

 

If you did and still no post, try RMA the board (or return though your merchant), because chances of both "new" RAM sticks are broken is low, and CPU were less likely to die compared to the mobo.

If it still doesn't post, your CPU might be dead.

Read up on that board.  Gigabyte's B650s are very well built, even the bottom of the barrel Elite AX.  The VRMs will have no issue at all with even the 7950x.

"Do what makes the experience better" - in regards to PCs and Life itself.

 

Onyx AMD Ryzen 7 7800x3d / MSI 6900xt Gaming X Trio / Gigabyte B650 AORUS Pro AX / G. Skill Flare X5 6000CL36 32GB / Samsung 980 1TB x3 / Super Flower Leadex V Platinum Pro 850 / EK-AIO 360 Basic / Fractal Design North XL (black mesh) / AOC AGON 35" 3440x1440 100Hz / Mackie CR5BT / Corsair Virtuoso SE / Cherry MX Board 3.0 / Logitech G502

 

7800X3D - PBO -30 all cores, 4.90GHz all core, 5.05GHz single core, 18286 C23 multi, 1779 C23 single

 

Emma : i9 9900K @5.1Ghz - Gigabyte AORUS 1080Ti - Gigabyte AORUS Z370 Gaming 5 - G. Skill Ripjaws V 32GB 3200CL16 - 750 EVO 512GB + 2x 860 EVO 1TB (RAID0) - EVGA SuperNova 650 P2 - Thermaltake Water 3.0 Ultimate 360mm - Fractal Design Define R6 - TP-Link AC1900 PCIe Wifi

 

Raven: AMD Ryzen 5 5600x3d - ASRock B550M Pro4 - G. Skill Ripjaws V 16GB 3200Mhz - XFX Radeon RX6650XT - Samsung 980 1TB + Crucial MX500 1TB - TP-Link AC600 USB Wifi - Gigabyte GP-P450B PSU -  Cooler Master MasterBox Q300L -  Samsung 27" 1080p

 

Plex : AMD Ryzen 5 5600 - Gigabyte B550M AORUS Elite AX - G. Skill Ripjaws V 16GB 2400Mhz - MSI 1050Ti 4GB - Crucial P3 Plus 500GB + WD Red NAS 4TBx2 - TP-Link AC1200 PCIe Wifi - EVGA SuperNova 650 P2 - ASUS Prime AP201 - Spectre 24" 1080p

 

Steam Deck 512GB OLED

 

OnePlus: 

OnePlus 11 5G - 16GB RAM, 256GB NAND, Eternal Green

OnePlus Buds Pro 2 - Eternal Green

 

Other Tech:

- 2021 Volvo S60 Recharge T8 Polestar Engineered - 415hp/495tq 2.0L 4cyl. turbocharged, supercharged and electrified.

Lenovo 720S Touch 15.6" - i7 7700HQ, 16GB RAM 2400MHz, 512GB NVMe SSD, 1050Ti, 4K touchscreen

MSI GF62 15.6" - i7 7700HQ, 16GB RAM 2400 MHz, 256GB NVMe SSD + 1TB 7200rpm HDD, 1050Ti

- Ubiquiti Amplifi HD mesh wifi

 

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5 minutes ago, Dedayog said:

"

  1. Try clearing your CMOS (not sure how to do this – pushing the “reset” button on the motherboard results in reboot & same issue)"

For that board, you need to use a metal object to connect the 2 pins on the lower right hand corner of the board.  Identify them in the manual.

 

Read up on that board.  Gigabyte's B650s are very well built, even the bottom of the barrel Elite AX.  The VRMs will have no issue at all with even the 7950x.

Yeah that is why I said it should work. and also told the OP to try without GPU and wait a bit for memory training.

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Thank you both for your comments - I tired clearing the CMOS but this didn't fix the issue. 

 

I also went ahead and un-installed the graphics card, so the Motherboard currently has the memory & processor (and SSD) connected, along with the CPU AIO. Still same issue, even after another CMOS reset. 

 

I also tried switching between Display Port and HDMI on the monitor (which is now connected to the motherboard, and not the disconnected graphics card), but still have the same issue. 

 

There was someone who did a very similar build (same Motherboard, processor, and almost identical memory - his just had RGB), on this video on YT. His other components seem different (and he's got a 4080 at the time), but now that I've removed the GPU, I wouldn't think the rest would make a difference.

 

Any other advice on what I can try?

 

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  • 2 weeks later...

Hey.  I don't know if you're still facing the problem but I did see your post yesterday when I was searching for a solution and wanted to reply with what helped me get my pc working.

 

I purchased the Gigabyte B650 Aorus Elite AX, 7950x, and G.Skillz Flare X5 DDR5-6000 Ram (free as part of a combo).  I put it together with an M.2 1TB, 1TB SSD, and RTX 4080.  When I tried powering on, I ran into the same issues and then spent a couple hours looking for a solution.  I found bits of suggestions here and there but still was not able to get a full boot. 

 

Finally, I ended up unplugging everything except for the cpu and 1 stick of ram in the A2 slot, and the necessary power cables. Also plugged in the DP cable to the port on the motherboard.  With that, I was able to get into the BIOS.  There, I tried flashing the mobo which was on the F2 bios up to F3.  I plugged the usb stick into the bios port in the back and tried updated... It went to 15% and then powered off. UGH. I even tried using the QFlash button on the back plate and failed.

 

After a few more attempts and a few more failures, I opened the "efiflash SOP.pdf" file in the download that came with the bios zip and decided to try the BIOS Flash SOP method in the doc.  So I plugged the usb stick into a regular usb 3.2 port and powered on.  Surprisingly, I was able to get to the bios on the first try this time and when I checked the QFlash menu, it was able to find the bios file on the usb stick, which I assumed would not be so.  Anyways, I tried flashing through QFlash and it updated!  And it was much faster than when I was using the BIOS port.  I patiently waited until it went through a couple reboots and then it loaded windows!

 

I logged in, did a reboot, logged in again, powered off.. It all went smoothly.  

 

Then, I plugged everything back in and it was able to power up and log into windows on the first try. 

 

So for the TLDR version here's what I did.

Disconnected all peripherals except for the CPU and aio cooler, 1 stick of Ram in A2 slot, DP cable connected to the motherboard's DP port.  Plug a usb stick with the bios file in a normal usb 3.2 port (do not use the bios port - I don't even know why it's there). 

Use QFlash to update the bios and patiently go through the update and reboots.

If/When windows pops up, login and do a reboot a couple more times.

If all goes well, shutdown, plug everything back in and try to power on.

 

Hope this helps.

 

 

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OP were you able to fix this issue? / How did you resolve it? I’m facing the exact same issue (down to the cpu to dram to cpu to dram light) with very similar specs.

 

Tried a new set of ram, but at this point think it might be the cpu, mine is a (7700x)

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2 hours ago, JWSherman said:

OP were you able to fix this issue? / How did you resolve it? I’m facing the exact same issue (down to the cpu to dram to cpu to dram light) with very similar specs.

 

Tried a new set of ram, but at this point think it might be the cpu, mine is a (7700x)

I also have the same issue, but I don't think it is the cpu, but a problem with the motherboard. There are a lot of threads on reddit which have varying am5 cpus, but the same mobo, and they all encounter the same issue. I have been trying different combinations of components plugged in/not plugged in and different combinations of ram to no avail. I have a 7600x, and if this problem persists after my new set of ram comes tomorrow, I will most likely return the motherboard in exchange for a different one (Maybe msi?)

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Okay, I have same motherboard and the same symptoms, without going into too many details, i found out my motherboard pins (from facing motherboard) its split into two section top and bottom, so on the bottom section top right pin was slightly off, I was lucky enough (and impatient) to bend it back and now its all good, assuming you had a look at your pins consider another look as i only seen it on the third time i had the cpu off. hopefully if pin is bend and if your retailer will accept returns i say send the motherboard back and i wouldnt advice what i did. 

my cpu and ram - r5 7600, fury beast 5200 cl36 16x2gb kit

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Had same issues, and lost 4-5 h in the process. but in the end they were like 2 problems in one.

First problem was the memory placement. If you use 2 memory slots be aware that it is NOT A1 and B1 but A2 and B2 that needs to be accommodate the first 2 memory sticks. Manual also recommends that, but it didn't specified that this is mandatory in the end.

Second problem is that you have to reset CMOS every time you change the RAM and /or update the BIOS. Just removing the battery didn't worked for me until I also used the reset pins on the motherboard (placement near battery check manual for exact location).

And finally the third small issue is with the BIOS update ( if you have F2 version and memory is not recognized you have to go to at least F3/F4b version, as of now). Using the Q-Flash process, you have to watch for the small led activity on the back of the motherboard shield to know when it ends. No shutdown, no reboot, nothing to indicate a success or not.

And just to be sure always watch for the listed RAM compatibility of the MB on the support page.

Hope it helps for anyone out there.

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New update: I actually managed to get the computer working through a new set of ram, so it was the ram after all. However, after about a week, the ram must have failed or something because the dram light is on AGAIN and its not booting. I don't even know what the issue was because the problem occurred WHILE the computer was running a game (Hogwarts Legacy). I left the room for 20 minutes and when I returned, the dram light was on and the system was unresponsive. A new difference from before is the motherboard leds near the bottom (Not the diagnostic leds but aesthetic ones) turn on after about 20-30 seconds of the dram light being on initially at post. I know the mobo, cpu, ram is all not faulty and working (at least out of the box) because it was JUST working.

Specs: Ryzen 5 7600x

RTX 3060ti (EVGA)

Crucial ddr5 16gb

Gigabyte b650 aorus elite ax

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  • 2 weeks later...

Hey, i just saw this post, i know i'm a momth late but i will just post this for more info purposes.

So i bought the exact same Motherboard, my pc worked fine for 3 weeks, and then suddenly i had no signal on my monitor, no POST, and also the DRAM led was on.

I tried everything from the small tricks with cables, different monitor, slots etc. Then did CMOS reset and remounting RAM separately, the gpu too, q-flash plus bios update, etc. to shorten the list i tried literally everything there is and was mentioned in the coments here already. Nothing worked.

My tech support guy then came over, did the same tests just to be sure, i also asked many people for advice online while i waited on him, bottom line it is the motherboard issue. Apparently this model is faulty very often, with same problems. Sometimes one of these steps actually works and fixes it, for me it didn't. The only solution for me is to get a new one, so if you have the same issue, prefferably try finding a different model that is compatible with your parts ofc, just avoid this one.  

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2 hours ago, Theodora45 said:

Hey, i just saw this post, i know i'm a momth late but i will just post this for more info purposes.

So i bought the exact same Motherboard, my pc worked fine for 3 weeks, and then suddenly i had no signal on my monitor, no POST, and also the DRAM led was on.

I tried everything from the small tricks with cables, different monitor, slots etc. Then did CMOS reset and remounting RAM separately, the gpu too, q-flash plus bios update, etc. to shorten the list i tried literally everything there is and was mentioned in the coments here already. Nothing worked.

My tech support guy then came over, did the same tests just to be sure, i also asked many people for advice online while i waited on him, bottom line it is the motherboard issue. Apparently this model is faulty very often, with same problems. Sometimes one of these steps actually works and fixes it, for me it didn't. The only solution for me is to get a new one, so if you have the same issue, prefferably try finding a different model that is compatible with your parts ofc, just avoid this one.  

The Pro AX is a slight upgrade over the Elite AX, and has been fantastic for me.

"Do what makes the experience better" - in regards to PCs and Life itself.

 

Onyx AMD Ryzen 7 7800x3d / MSI 6900xt Gaming X Trio / Gigabyte B650 AORUS Pro AX / G. Skill Flare X5 6000CL36 32GB / Samsung 980 1TB x3 / Super Flower Leadex V Platinum Pro 850 / EK-AIO 360 Basic / Fractal Design North XL (black mesh) / AOC AGON 35" 3440x1440 100Hz / Mackie CR5BT / Corsair Virtuoso SE / Cherry MX Board 3.0 / Logitech G502

 

7800X3D - PBO -30 all cores, 4.90GHz all core, 5.05GHz single core, 18286 C23 multi, 1779 C23 single

 

Emma : i9 9900K @5.1Ghz - Gigabyte AORUS 1080Ti - Gigabyte AORUS Z370 Gaming 5 - G. Skill Ripjaws V 32GB 3200CL16 - 750 EVO 512GB + 2x 860 EVO 1TB (RAID0) - EVGA SuperNova 650 P2 - Thermaltake Water 3.0 Ultimate 360mm - Fractal Design Define R6 - TP-Link AC1900 PCIe Wifi

 

Raven: AMD Ryzen 5 5600x3d - ASRock B550M Pro4 - G. Skill Ripjaws V 16GB 3200Mhz - XFX Radeon RX6650XT - Samsung 980 1TB + Crucial MX500 1TB - TP-Link AC600 USB Wifi - Gigabyte GP-P450B PSU -  Cooler Master MasterBox Q300L -  Samsung 27" 1080p

 

Plex : AMD Ryzen 5 5600 - Gigabyte B550M AORUS Elite AX - G. Skill Ripjaws V 16GB 2400Mhz - MSI 1050Ti 4GB - Crucial P3 Plus 500GB + WD Red NAS 4TBx2 - TP-Link AC1200 PCIe Wifi - EVGA SuperNova 650 P2 - ASUS Prime AP201 - Spectre 24" 1080p

 

Steam Deck 512GB OLED

 

OnePlus: 

OnePlus 11 5G - 16GB RAM, 256GB NAND, Eternal Green

OnePlus Buds Pro 2 - Eternal Green

 

Other Tech:

- 2021 Volvo S60 Recharge T8 Polestar Engineered - 415hp/495tq 2.0L 4cyl. turbocharged, supercharged and electrified.

Lenovo 720S Touch 15.6" - i7 7700HQ, 16GB RAM 2400MHz, 512GB NVMe SSD, 1050Ti, 4K touchscreen

MSI GF62 15.6" - i7 7700HQ, 16GB RAM 2400 MHz, 256GB NVMe SSD + 1TB 7200rpm HDD, 1050Ti

- Ubiquiti Amplifi HD mesh wifi

 

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  • 2 weeks later...
On 3/9/2023 at 9:37 AM, Iulian P said:

Had same issues, and lost 4-5 h in the process. but in the end they were like 2 problems in one.

First problem was the memory placement. If you use 2 memory slots be aware that it is NOT A1 and B1 but A2 and B2 that needs to be accommodate the first 2 memory sticks. Manual also recommends that, but it didn't specified that this is mandatory in the end.

Second problem is that you have to reset CMOS every time you change the RAM and /or update the BIOS. Just removing the battery didn't worked for me until I also used the reset pins on the motherboard (placement near battery check manual for exact location).

And finally the third small issue is with the BIOS update ( if you have F2 version and memory is not recognized you have to go to at least F3/F4b version, as of now). Using the Q-Flash process, you have to watch for the small led activity on the back of the motherboard shield to know when it ends. No shutdown, no reboot, nothing to indicate a success or not.

And just to be sure always watch for the listed RAM compatibility of the MB on the support page.

Hope it helps for anyone out there.

This was helpful for me, swapped my dims to the proper slot and solved the issue.

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  • 2 weeks later...

Having the exact same problem, just with a Asus Prime B650M-A II. Tried everything as discribed here. Will try to flash BIOS and see what's happens.

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  • 3 weeks later...

Same problem here, using a Gigabyte X670E Aorus Master Rev 1.0 on BIOS F10c, but the problem persists after I used Q Flash Plus to go back to F9.  System was working fine for weeks, then I shut it down to add some HDDs and now it won't boot.  Full writeup on Reddit here.

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  • 2 weeks later...
On 2/10/2023 at 11:18 AM, zapherix said:

I’ve got an issue that I haven’t been able to resolve or find more information on. I built this PC following the manual from the Gigabyte website: https://www.gigabyte.com/Motherboard/B650-AORUS-ELITE-AX-rev-1x/support#support-manual.

 

Here’s the build, all parts were brand new bought via combination of Amazon, Newegg, and BB – all looked unused, so I’m not suspecting an issue where I received a used or old part.

  • Motherboard: GIGABYTE B650 AORUS ELITE AX AM5 (PN: 12BB1-EB650ELX-01DR)
  • Processor: AMD Ryzen™ 9 7900X 12-Core (PN: 100-10000589WOF)
  • RAM: G.SKILL Trident Z5 Neo Series AMD EXPO 32GB (PN: F5-6000J3038F16GX2-TZ5N)
  • GPU: NVIDIA - GeForce RTX 4090 24GB GDDR6X
  • CPU Cooler: ARCTIC Liquid Freezer II 360 A-RGB    
  • SSD: SAMSUNG 980 PRO SSD 2TB PCIe NVMe Gen 4 Gaming M.2 (PN: MZ-V8P2T0B)
  • Case: Be quiet! Dark Base PRO 900 Black Rev. 2    

 

Symptoms:

  • Put together the build in the PC case, powered on and did not see POST (monitor cable is plugged into the graphcs card). 
  • Waited a few minutes (thinking this was the memory training I should wait for to finish), and saw that the DRAM light is on
  • While computer is on, all fans (CPU cooler, case fans, and GPU fans) are all spinning, LEDs are on for components that have them, and the CPU cooler pump is also on
  • The manual only “helpfully” indicates that “If the CPU/DRAM/VGA LED is on, that means the corresponding device is not working normally”
  • Turned off computer, noticed that the RAM was installed into the two non-preferred slots (A1 and B1), so I moved them to the preferred slots per the manual (A2 and B2), and rebooted
  • Same symptoms, but now that I was paying attention to the LEDs, I noticed that when power is applied first the CPU LED turns on briefly, then turns off while DRAM LED turns on, then they switch back to CPU LED on, and finally back again to DRAM LED on at which point the DRAM LED stays on continually.

The memory support list on the Gigabyte website lists the RAM in the compatibility list (https://www.gigabyte.com/Motherboard/B650-AORUS-ELITE-AX-rev-1x/support#support-memsup), and should be compatible.

 

Troubleshooting So Far (for every one of these, the symptoms are the same – power on does not show POST, the LEDs swich from CPU>DRAM>CPU>DRAM very quickly when power turns on, and then DRAM light stays on continually):

  • Swapped both sticks of memory to every combination of the 4 slots
  • Swapped each of the two sticks individually into every slot (only 1 stick is installed)
  • Loosened CPU cooler screws slightly (read somewhere that a tighter seal may cause DRAM light to be on) 
  • Installed 2 new RAM sticks with the same make/model. After first placement into recommended slots, left PC on for nearly 2 hours (thinking I may have messed up the first pair and they needed memory training)
  • Repeated swapping both of the new sticks into every combination of 4 slots
  • Repeated swapping each of the new sticks individually into every slot (only 1 stick is installed)

 

I then went through the list on the motherboard troubleshooting post for “The machine does power up, but my screen remains black (no POST).”

  1. Make sure your BIOS version is compatible with the CPU generation you're trying to run in your motherboard, you can consult the manual or the manufacturer's website about this. (fairly sure the BIOS is compatible with CPU generation, since this is the only processor generation that is applicable for this motherboard)
  2. Check if EVERY power cable is connected. Auxiliary power connectors included. (all power cables are connected)
  3. Make sure the cable coming from your monitor is attached securely to the graphics card. Also make sure it is securely attached to the monitor itself. (securely attached on both ends, and the monitor does work as I’ve used it with other computers)
  4. Make sure your PSU is powerful enough to power your complete system. (check – the PSU is specifically chosen for this GPU/CPU combination with plenty of headroom)
  5. Try booting the system with only a monitor but no other peripherals connected. (check – same issue, no difference)
  6. Make sure your monitor works by testing it on a different computer (check – monitor has been used for nearly 7 years with no problems, tried both DP and HDMI)
  7. If you have both a dedicated GPU and an iGPU, try your monitor on both the outputs on the graphics cards as well as on the motherboard. (N/A)
  8. Make sure all connectors and cables are plugged in securely, reseat if necessary. (plugged in)
  9. Make sure your RAM, CPU and GPU are plugged in securely, reseat if necessary. (plugged in)
  10. If the motherboard you're using has debug LEDs, check the error code and consult the motherboard manual to see what it means. (couldn’t find any info about what this particular sequence of LEDs means…)
  11. If you have a debug speaker connected to the motherboard, note the beep sequence and consult the motherboard manual (no speaker, no beeps)
  12. Try clearing your CMOS (tried clearing this via the two pins indicated in the manual - both before and after removing the GPU, still same issue)
  13. Try booting your computer with only a motherboard, CPU and one stick of RAM attached (tried this without the GPU, same issue).
  14. Make sure your GPU works, try it in another computer. (don’t have another compatible motherboard for a 4090)
  15. Make sure your RAM works, try it another computer. (don’t have another compatible motherboard for DDR5)
  16. Make sure the RAM is compatible with your CPU and your motherboard. (check – RAM appears on list of compatible parts for motherboard, see link above)

 

At this point, not really sure what else to try – it seems to be something independent of the memory, because I’ve tried 2 pairs of brand new “sealed in the box” sticks, but still can’t get the PC to POST. Different sites list solutions from “get different RAM manufacturer” to “the motherboard has a short and you can do nothing about this” to “it could be anything”. Gigabyte website doesn’t seem to have any troubleshooting steps. Another guy on YT did a very similar build (https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=pnoMOOyeuZE) that seemed to work (same motherboard, processor, and almost identical RAM), but I continue to have issues. Any ideas?

 

2/10/23 EDIT - added CMOS reset, GPU removal, and DP/HDMI cable switch to troubleshooting (issue still persists)

Hey man. I am having the exact same issue with you. And yes, same exact ram and MB. I am talking with GIGABYTE support about it but I think I might just have to end up getting new RAM. Which sucks since I can't return my current sticks. Also figured out that my SSD was not compatible either. Went through some of the same steps you have and I think my final solution is to get into back up BIOS by shorting pins 1 and 6 at the same time. Though this seems really risky and want to avoid that as much as possible. I will update you as I go and let you know if I find a fix or just end up getting new components. I wish you the best man.

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On 2/11/2023 at 12:34 AM, zapherix said:

Thank you both for your comments - I tired clearing the CMOS but this didn't fix the issue. 

 

I also went ahead and un-installed the graphics card, so the Motherboard currently has the memory & processor (and SSD) connected, along with the CPU AIO. Still same issue, even after another CMOS reset. 

 

I also tried switching between Display Port and HDMI on the monitor (which is now connected to the motherboard, and not the disconnected graphics card), but still have the same issue. 

 

There was someone who did a very similar build (same Motherboard, processor, and almost identical memory - his just had RGB), on this video on YT. His other components seem different (and he's got a 4080 at the time), but now that I've removed the GPU, I wouldn't think the rest would make a difference.

 

Any other advice on what I can try?

 

Also keep in mind, I think the model of ram you are talking about (in that build online) is compatible with the motherboard. It's so silly that the non RGB version isn't compatible but the RGB version is.

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  • 2 weeks later...

I had this issue as well and was luckily able to resolve it similar to another poster.

 

MB: GIGABYTE B650 AORUS Elite AX

CPU: AMD Ryzen 7 7800X3D

RAM: G.Skill Trident Z5 NEO Series (AMD Expo) 32GB (2 x 16GB)

 

I used Q-flash plus to update the BIOS to F6a. I had my two RAM sticks installed in slots A1 and B1 which is not what Gigabyte recommends. I moved the RAM to slots A2 and B2.  Removed the CMOS battery and shorted the reset_CMOS jumper to reset CMOS.  After these steps I was able to boot to the BIOS and install Windows.

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My takeaway is to just stay away from that board. Or Gogabyte in general. They have HORRIBLE bios issues.

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  • 2 weeks later...

It's too bad too.  Gigabyte used to be one of the best.

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  • 1 month later...

Just having this same problem... was working great then suddenly no signal, no USB power, can't POST.

 

Tried going right down to just motherboard, PSU, CPU and RAM, but still no video signal or POST.

 

Contacting the supplier to RMA... pain in the backside!

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  • 1 month later...

Hi, Im having issue about my rig. Mine is working but everytime I boot up my pc the dram red light turns on for a few seconds then turn off and then my pc will start normally. The total boot time is around 20-30 seconds because of the red light on dram before starting.

 

My specs:

Ryzen 7 7700x

Aorus B650m Elite Ax

Gskill flare x5 32gb 6000mhz

Kingston kc3000 Ssd

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  • 2 months later...

Hi All, 

 

Thanks for all of the amazing tips and suggestions (though none of them worked for me).

Aorus B650 Elite AX

- Red Dram light

- Wont post

 

By accident i resolved my problem and wanted to share just in case it might help someone else... the PCIE slot i had used on the power supply was apparently the 'wrong' one. There were 3 on the power supply and as a last ditch effort i just moved that one single cable to a different one and BINGO! Apologies if it doesn't work for anyone else, but just wanted to share in case it might.

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  • 4 weeks later...

Upgraded my pc this weekend with some black friday deals. I'm sure more people will be running into this issue.

 

Gigabyte B650M Aorus Elite AX

AMD 7800X3D

Team Group Delta (2x16gb) 6000 CL30.

After hours of troubleshooting and reading threads about this issue, my resolution was adjusting the CPU placement. I had read this in 2 different responses on another thread, and put it off until very end, as it would require taking everything I already installed, but probably would have saved me hours of troubleshooting. The suggestion was to wiggle it, but I took out the cpu and reinstalled it. Reset the CMOS, and it detected the drives and loaded up fine.

I spent hours trying different bios setting configurations, and different ram combinations. A number of threads people just returned the products, but it does work. Mine would boot to bios, but wouldn't find any bootable devices, so i really didn't think it would have been related to the cpu. I know my drives were working, as i was just upgrading the 3 parts listed above.

 

 

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