2 or 3 rads?

[Nate K.]

Hey, when the 4090 comes out, I am going to be upgrading to it and basicly restarting a new pc build. I am going to do hard line frosted corsair tube, and it will be my first hardline build although not my first pc build, not by a long shot. I am also going to run the ryzen 7950x on the same loop. Should i use 3 rads? as my case will support it well. (Corsair 50000 airflow) What do yall think? they would all be 360mm.

[FalseControl]

It also depends on the thickness but normally to keep it cool I would say atleast 240mm per component you cool. But in my opinion more doesn't hurt xD

 

[-rascal-]

1 hour ago, Nate K. said:

Hey, when the 4090 comes out, I am going to be upgrading to it and basicly restarting a new pc build. I am going to do hard line frosted corsair tube, and it will be my first hardline build although not my first pc build, not by a long shot. I am also going to run the ryzen 7950x on the same loop. Should i use 3 rads? as my case will support it well. (Corsair 50000 airflow) What do yall think? they would all be 360mm.

 

Have you done any sort of custom loop water cooling before?

If not, it might be best to try with soft tubing first.

Once you get the hang of it, THEN try hard tubing.

My 2 cents.

 

As for radiators, I'd go with a 360mm for each the CPU and GPU.

Well, we don't know anything about the RTX 4090 yet...so...busting out my magic 8 ball.

[Somerandomtechyboi]

Btw If you wanna have a go at oc you will need to direct die the cpu as ryzen 7000 seems to have abysmal die -> ihs heat transfer at higher heat outputs like 20c kind of temp drop, go check out der8aurs vid on direct die ryzen 7000. If you just wanna run efficiency 1 - 1.1v 4.8-5.2g static allcore then this shouldnt be a worry

 

 

More rads = more heat dissipating capability = lower temps, though a decently sized res will help keep your temps more stable rather than spiking like crazy when you load your cpu/gpu cause extra coolant mass to absorb the heat and cold. If you happen to need a fan suggestion i suggest arctic p12/120 as they perform similarly to noctua and theyre pretty cheap, also rgb versions available

[fonzz1e]

5000d air can't have triple 360 rads, unless you don't mind having fans out the front (ie fans on front instead of dust filter)

 

also if you've never build a custom loop, prepare to spend at least 500 usd or more just on watercooling parts alone

[Nate K.]

27 minutes ago, fonzz1e said:

5000d air can't have triple 360 rads, unless you don't mind having fans out the front (ie fans on front instead of dust filter)

 

also if you've never build a custom loop, prepare to spend at least 500 usd or more just on watercooling parts alone

Are you sure you can't have 3? I thought u can mount it on the inside

[Nate K.]

12 hours ago, -rascal- said:

 

Have you done any sort of custom loop water cooling before?

If not, it might be best to try with soft tubing first.

Once you get the hang of it, THEN try hard tubing.

My 2 cents.

 

As for radiators, I'd go with a 360mm for each the CPU and GPU.

Well, we don't know anything about the RTX 4090 yet...so...busting out my magic 8 ball.

Ok, thank you. Once the 4090 is released, and correct stats are public, what/where should I look? Just in case.

 

And also, I do another of copper and stainless steel tube bending at my work, so I don't think it will be TOO off... right?

[Nate K.]

12 hours ago, Somerandomtechyboi said:

Btw If you wanna have a go at oc you will need to direct die the cpu as ryzen 7000 seems to have abysmal die -> ihs heat transfer at higher heat outputs like 20c kind of temp drop, go check out der8aurs vid on direct die ryzen 7000. If you just wanna run efficiency 1 - 1.1v 4.8-5.2g static allcore then this shouldnt be a worry

 

 

More rads = more heat dissipating capability = lower temps, though a decently sized res will help keep your temps more stable rather than spiking like crazy when you load your cpu/gpu cause extra coolant mass to absorb the heat and cold. If you happen to need a fan suggestion i suggest arctic p12/120 as they perform similarly to noctua and theyre pretty cheap, also rgb versions available

I know this sounds stupid, but as a guy who has never removed his IHS, is that safe? And do I need to buy anything? 

[Somerandomtechyboi]

5 hours ago, Nate K. said:

I know this sounds stupid, but as a guy who has never removed his IHS, is that safe? And do I need to buy anything? 

Safety depends on the user but very much doable, the solder may be a PITA to remove after delid though, i personally just put my damn cpu ihs on a candle and it worked but others tend to prefer ovens or something that doesnt involve putting a direct flame on the ihs like using an oven or a heatgun

 

Youll have to cut the adhesive holding the ihs to the cpu substrate but all you need is a very thin razor which you can get by destructively taking apart one of those generic shavers youd find in a convenience store and from what ive seen the adhesive is only on the edges and doesnt form a complete seal like on intel cpus so its gonna be quite easy to get rid of all the adhesive

 

Though again doesnt really matter unless you wanna run >1.2v for 5.3+ shenanigans, 1 - 1.1v seems to be where these 7000 cpus are most efficient v/f wise and you can get pretty massive power consumption drops and temp drops, tech yes city made a vid on undervolting ryzen 7000 so check that out, he set 4.8g 1v and halved power consumption

[Nate K.]

14 hours ago, Somerandomtechyboi said:

Safety depends on the user but very much doable, the solder may be a PITA to remove after delid though, i personally just put my damn cpu ihs on a candle and it worked but others tend to prefer ovens or something that doesnt involve putting a direct flame on the ihs like using an oven or a heatgun

 

Youll have to cut the adhesive holding the ihs to the cpu substrate but all you need is a very thin razor which you can get by destructively taking apart one of those generic shavers youd find in a convenience store and from what ive seen the adhesive is only on the edges and doesnt form a complete seal like on intel cpus so its gonna be quite easy to get rid of all the adhesive

 

Though again doesnt really matter unless you wanna run >1.2v for 5.3+ shenanigans, 1 - 1.1v seems to be where these 7000 cpus are most efficient v/f wise and you can get pretty massive power consumption drops and temp drops, tech yes city made a vid on undervolting ryzen 7000 so check that out, he set 4.8g 1v and halved power consumption

With having a crazy watercooling setup, I will probably overclock till I can't no more. At that point, would you recommend it?

[Somerandomtechyboi]

6 minutes ago, Nate K. said:

With having a crazy watercooling setup, I will probably overclock till I can't no more. At that point, would you recommend it?

In that case yes but do keep in mind cpu overclocking is dead and you wont get much gain out of it for the power draw

 

 

A (potentially) much cheaper and far far superior cooling method would be rigging a car rad to the pc aka ghetto looping like what the old folk did in the early days of watercooling. Buy a massive car rad (can be new or used but new preffered) and thatll obliterate any pathetic pc rad, you just need to assemble it which is the main pain and youd need to run a distilled water + 20% ish antifreeze mix to prevent galvanic corrosion. Pc rads just cant beat car rads sheer performance wise since they dont got the size, just look at linus video on pc rad vs car rad he made a few years ago, thats pretty much what you need to do if you want ridicolously good temps and cooling capabilities so you can prob push past 1.3v without the cpu overheating to sht (assuming direct die cause ryzen abysmal die -> ihs thermal transfer)