Jump to content

Phone Wi-Fi keeps disconnecting even with enough coverage

TukangUsapEmenq
Go to solution Solved by TukangUsapEmenq,

I don't really know why, but I decided to actually get the router, specifically the WR840N (funny thing is I bought the WR820N but the one came is WR840N, don't really know why the seller did that but I'm happily receiving it anyway). It fixes all of those problem above, including the disconnection (so yay, no more me frustrated of every minute need to go to my phone settings), but it wasn't a perfect solution as wired would still the best way to do it, as I constantly got 'disconnected' from internet because someone in the boarding house actually ate all of the bandwidth.

 

Welp, I hope this solves any similar issues that I have.

The phone's Redmi Note 8 with xiaomi.eu version of MIUI 12.5 (because I hate ads), and I'm currently living on a boarding house, despite I said on here they got a good enough internet, it simply wasn't for my phone. It keeps disconnecting and refuse to reconnect, despite me tapping to the Wi-Fi for, multiple times, and the signal's actually on full bar. But if I wait for few minutes (usually 5-10 mins), it can reconnect normally again. And it keeps cycling like so. This frustrate me so (shit ton) much since the Wi-Fi is the only way to get decent internet here, and there's barely any cell signal can get through of all those concretes. The Wi-Fi AP that I connect to is an outdoor CPE, Tenda O3, runs on 2.4 GHz channel 6 and this is the one with the full signal, and there's the main Huawei ONT router (router came from the ISP), runs on 2.4 GHz channel 8, but with really spotty signal that I could only get 2 bars on my phone and none on my PC.

 

Edit again, here's a video.

 

Spoiler

 

 

 

And before you ask, no, I couldn't go wired this time unfortunately. I would really want to but it'd be a really complicated process to do so.

 

On said thread here I actually want to get one cheap router to (perhaps) fix all of the problem (but I won't expect it to be perfect, we know how unreliable wireless is), by connecting the router to the Tenda O3 CPE in WISP mode since it's only my phone that keeps disconnecting and the PC's actually being fine (despite the slow upload, from the thread I linked before, still enough for my usage anyway). Should I really have to get the router? I'm thinking to get the (cheapo either) dual-band one so I can get 5 GHz, but I don't know if it would even be necessary, since there's not even any congestion at all around my room, but twice the price somehow.

 

Probably I'll get the TP-Link WR820N (or WR-840N, price difference's only by US$ 2) if it's actually fine to stay on 2.4 GHz and not opting to dual-band.

 

(fyi I got a Redmi TV Soundbar which I sometimes do use it's Bluetooth, but I don't think this is an issue at all since even with the speaker off, the problem still persists, and I usually use it with both Wi-Fi and Bluetooth on anyway),

 

But if getting dual-band would be the best idea, I'll get the TP-Link Archer C54 or Mercusys AC10 (Mercusys' TP-Link's subbrand, and price's cheaper). Could go for another brand, but I trust TP-Link enough as I owned few routers (at home) from them and still works fine now. (edit, nvm, both router didn't support WISP mode) Totolink A720R. My phone can do both 2.4 and 5 GHz, but my PC can't because I mistakenly took a non-dual band antenna for the PCI-e Wi-Fi module (that I scavenged from my old laptop, the Wi-Fi module actually can do both band).

 

Thanks in advance.

Edited by TukangUsapEmenq

Humor me, as you should do.

 

Daily drivers, below.

 

Diccbudd PC

Intel Xeon E3-1225 v2 || ASRock B75M Motherboard || MSI GeForce GTX 1650 Gaming X 4G || Hynix 2x8 GB DDR3 1600 MHz RAM || 480 GB Pioneer APS-SL3 SATA SSD // 1 TB Seagate 2.5" HDD || be quiet! System Power 9 500 W PSU || Cooler Master T20 CPU Cooler || Samsung S19D300 Monitor || Fantech X6 Knight Mouse || VortexSeries VX7 Pro Keyboard

 

Samsung Galaxy A34 5G

8GB RAM, 256GB Internal Storage, 128GB SanDisk Extreme, and you could find the rest of the specs on the interwebz lol

 

Lenovo ThinkPad L390 Yoga

Intel Core i5-8365U || 8 + 16 GB DDR4 (don't ask, gf bought me the 16 GB RAM as my birthday present lol) || Samsung 256GB SSD

 

Personal Server: CasaOS, Home Assistant, ESPHome, Jellyfin.

AMD E-350 || 3GB DDR3 || 120GB random SSD || 1TB Toshiba HDD

 

Audio

Redmi TV Soundbar || KZ EDX Ultra + KZ APTX Bluetooth Module || JCALLY JM6 CX31933 DAC

Link to comment
Share on other sites

Link to post
Share on other sites

I don't really know why, but I decided to actually get the router, specifically the WR840N (funny thing is I bought the WR820N but the one came is WR840N, don't really know why the seller did that but I'm happily receiving it anyway). It fixes all of those problem above, including the disconnection (so yay, no more me frustrated of every minute need to go to my phone settings), but it wasn't a perfect solution as wired would still the best way to do it, as I constantly got 'disconnected' from internet because someone in the boarding house actually ate all of the bandwidth.

 

Welp, I hope this solves any similar issues that I have.

Humor me, as you should do.

 

Daily drivers, below.

 

Diccbudd PC

Intel Xeon E3-1225 v2 || ASRock B75M Motherboard || MSI GeForce GTX 1650 Gaming X 4G || Hynix 2x8 GB DDR3 1600 MHz RAM || 480 GB Pioneer APS-SL3 SATA SSD // 1 TB Seagate 2.5" HDD || be quiet! System Power 9 500 W PSU || Cooler Master T20 CPU Cooler || Samsung S19D300 Monitor || Fantech X6 Knight Mouse || VortexSeries VX7 Pro Keyboard

 

Samsung Galaxy A34 5G

8GB RAM, 256GB Internal Storage, 128GB SanDisk Extreme, and you could find the rest of the specs on the interwebz lol

 

Lenovo ThinkPad L390 Yoga

Intel Core i5-8365U || 8 + 16 GB DDR4 (don't ask, gf bought me the 16 GB RAM as my birthday present lol) || Samsung 256GB SSD

 

Personal Server: CasaOS, Home Assistant, ESPHome, Jellyfin.

AMD E-350 || 3GB DDR3 || 120GB random SSD || 1TB Toshiba HDD

 

Audio

Redmi TV Soundbar || KZ EDX Ultra + KZ APTX Bluetooth Module || JCALLY JM6 CX31933 DAC

Link to comment
Share on other sites

Link to post
Share on other sites

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now

×