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Having issues with my mice

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8 hours ago, OnionRings said:

@191x7
Alright I've tested it out on my brother in laws PC and its still happening, so it has to be the mouse then, but it happened on my past 2 mice as well, what on earth? Are all 3 of them just junk garbage? I don't know. I can't afford a new mouse right now, so I just deal with it I guess. I did use some canned air under the mouse buttons so ill see if that does do anything, but I can't imagine there anything in there, the gap is so small.

You can open the mice, open the switch and straighten the spring.

Or, if you can solder, you can replace the switches.

It's a common thing to happen, usually with the left because those are used a lot more.

So I noticed after I rebuilt my PC, (went from an intel platform to a Ryzen setup) that my mice are acting weird, they sometimes just stop working, but it only appears to be the buttons. I can scroll and move around fine but my buttons sometimes just stop working when I hold them in, I notice it more in FPS games like destiny 2, and COD, but have also noticed it happening in other games as well. At first I thought it was the mouse, or maybe the game, but its happened on 3 different mice. A Logitech G602 wireless, a Logitech G502 wired like special edition or something, and some razer wireless one. Since it happened twice on wireless mice I figured maybe signal interference but right now I have the 502 and its wired and still happening.

 

I noticed sometimes when I tap my mouse on my desk, some dirt came out and the issue seemed to get better for a time, then it happened again, could it be a simple solution that I'm just a gross bafoon? Can crumbs like, get inside a mouse and block sensors? Would that really happen on all 3 mice? (I only tried the tapping thing on the 502 mind you). Or is there something else going on?

 

I've tried different USB ports, having the logitech software running in the background, changing DPI and polling rates, making sure firmware and drivers were updated, to no success.

 

Stumped on what else to try.

Demonstration 

 

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Anything non Logitech it happens on?  Logitech has a rep for rather elaborate apps that go on top of drivers.  There may be an incompatibility there.

Not a pro, not even very good.  I’m just old and have time currently.  Assuming I know a lot about computers can be a mistake.

 

Life is like a bowl of chocolates: there are all these little crinkly paper cups everywhere.

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Maybe you have double clicking issues (those would show like dropping out while dragging something, double clicks instead of single sometimes, ...).

M.S.C.E. (M.Sc. Computer Engineering), IT specialist in a hospital, 32+ years of gaming, 20+ years of computer enthusiasm, Geek, Trekkie, anime fan

  • Main PC: AMD Ryzen 7 5800X3D - EK AIO 360 D-RGB - Arctic Cooling MX-4 - Asus Prime X570-P - 4x8GB DDR4 3200 HyperX Fury CL16 - Sapphire AMD Radeon 6950XT Nitro+ - 1TB Kingston Fury Renegade - 2TB Kingston Fury Renegade - 512GB ADATA SU800 - 960GB Kingston A400 - Seasonic PX-850 850W  - custom black ATX and EPS cables - Fractal Design Define R5 Blackout - Windows 11 x64 23H2 - 3 Arctic Cooling P14 PWM PST - 5 Arctic Cooling P12 PWM PST
  • Peripherals: LG 32GK650F - Dell P2319h - Logitech G Pro X Superlight with Tiger Ice - Madlions MAD 68HE Pro - EndGame Gear MPC890 - Genius HF 1250B - Akliam PD4 - Sennheiser HD 560s - Tripowin Vivace - Simgot EM6L - Truthear Zero - QKZ x HBB - 7Hz Salnotes Zero - Logitech C270 - Behringer PS400 - BM700  - Colormunki Smile - Speedlink Torid - Jysk Stenderup - LG 24x External DVD writer - Konig smart card reader
  • Laptop: Acer E5–575G-386R 15.6" 1080p (i3 6100U + 12GB DDR4 (4GB+8GB) + GeForce 940MX + 256GB nVME) Win 10 Pro x64 22H2 - Logitech G305 + AAA Lithium battery
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  • Livingroom PC (dad uses): AMD FX 8300 - Arctic Freezer 64 - Asus M5A97 R2.0 Evo - 2x4 GB DDR3 1833 Kingston - MSI Radeon HD 7770 1GB OC - 120GB Adata SSD - 500W Fractal Design Essence - DVD-RW - Samsung SM 2253BW - Logitech G710+ - wireless vertical mouse - MS 2.0 speakers
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16 hours ago, Bombastinator said:

Anything non Logitech it happens on?  Logitech has a rep for rather elaborate apps that go on top of drivers.  There may be an incompatibility there.

Yes I mentioned it in the post, if had a wireless razer, wireless Logitech, and wired Logitech. Happens on all 3.

 

15 hours ago, 191x7 said:

Maybe you have double clicking issues (those would show like dropping out while dragging something, double clicks instead of single sometimes, ...).

I am doubtful, Its a holding issue not a clicking issue. I hold down right mouse button to aim down sights in these games, and while im aiming/shooting the mouse just sometimes stops, and no I am not letting go, and it happens regardless of how light or hard I press and hold the button.

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8 minutes ago, OnionRings said:

 

 

I am doubtful, Its a holding issue not a clicking issue. I hold down right mouse button to aim down sights in these games, and while im aiming/shooting the mouse just sometimes stops, and no I am not letting go, and it happens regardless of how light or hard I press and hold the button.

When you drag something with the mouse and it drops while you're dragging, it's having a key pressed the whole time but the switch losing contact and making it like you let the key, stopped holding it. That is a double click issue.

So if you ADS wit holding RMB and it stopps without you letting the key off, that is a double click issue. A bad switch.

M.S.C.E. (M.Sc. Computer Engineering), IT specialist in a hospital, 32+ years of gaming, 20+ years of computer enthusiasm, Geek, Trekkie, anime fan

  • Main PC: AMD Ryzen 7 5800X3D - EK AIO 360 D-RGB - Arctic Cooling MX-4 - Asus Prime X570-P - 4x8GB DDR4 3200 HyperX Fury CL16 - Sapphire AMD Radeon 6950XT Nitro+ - 1TB Kingston Fury Renegade - 2TB Kingston Fury Renegade - 512GB ADATA SU800 - 960GB Kingston A400 - Seasonic PX-850 850W  - custom black ATX and EPS cables - Fractal Design Define R5 Blackout - Windows 11 x64 23H2 - 3 Arctic Cooling P14 PWM PST - 5 Arctic Cooling P12 PWM PST
  • Peripherals: LG 32GK650F - Dell P2319h - Logitech G Pro X Superlight with Tiger Ice - Madlions MAD 68HE Pro - EndGame Gear MPC890 - Genius HF 1250B - Akliam PD4 - Sennheiser HD 560s - Tripowin Vivace - Simgot EM6L - Truthear Zero - QKZ x HBB - 7Hz Salnotes Zero - Logitech C270 - Behringer PS400 - BM700  - Colormunki Smile - Speedlink Torid - Jysk Stenderup - LG 24x External DVD writer - Konig smart card reader
  • Laptop: Acer E5–575G-386R 15.6" 1080p (i3 6100U + 12GB DDR4 (4GB+8GB) + GeForce 940MX + 256GB nVME) Win 10 Pro x64 22H2 - Logitech G305 + AAA Lithium battery
  • Networking: Asus TUF Gaming AX6000 - Huawei OptiXstar EG8145X6-10 - 1000/500 Mbps fiber optic Internet access
  • TV and gadgets: TCL 50EP680 50" 4K LED + Sharp HT-SB100 75W RMS soundbar - Samsung Galaxy Tab A8 10.1" - OnePlus 13 16GB/512GB - OnePlus 9 256GB - Olymous Cameda C-160 - GameBoy Color - Miyoo A30 Spruce
  • Streaming/Server/Storage PC: AMD Ryzen 5 3600 - LC-Power LC-CC-120 - MSI B450 Tomahawk Max - 2x4GB ADATA 2666 DDR4 - 120GB Kingston V300 - Toshiba DT01ACA100 1TB - Toshiba DT01ACA200 2TB - 2x WD Green 2TB - Sapphire Pulse AMD Radeon R9 380X - 550W EVGA G3 SuperNova - Chieftec Giga DF-01B - White Shark Spartan X keyboard - Roccat Kone Pure Military Desert strike - Logitech S-220 - Philips 226L
  • Livingroom PC (dad uses): AMD FX 8300 - Arctic Freezer 64 - Asus M5A97 R2.0 Evo - 2x4 GB DDR3 1833 Kingston - MSI Radeon HD 7770 1GB OC - 120GB Adata SSD - 500W Fractal Design Essence - DVD-RW - Samsung SM 2253BW - Logitech G710+ - wireless vertical mouse - MS 2.0 speakers
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13 minutes ago, 191x7 said:

When you drag something with the mouse and it drops while you're dragging, it's having a key pressed the whole time but the switch losing contact and making it like you let the key, stopped holding it. That is a double click issue.

So if you ADS wit holding RMB and it stopps without you letting the key off, that is a double click issue. A bad switch.

Well now that you mention it, it does appear to happen more while im trying to aim AND track targets, hence the dragging. Hmmm... so is my mouse just fucked? And all 3 of them had bad switches? Is the only fix a new mouse or?

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11 minutes ago, OnionRings said:

Well now that you mention it, it does appear to happen more while im trying to aim AND track targets, hence the dragging. Hmmm... so is my mouse just fucked? And all 3 of them had bad switches? Is the only fix a new mouse or?

How old are the mice and how much use did they get?

It might also be the USB port loosing power for a moment.

The only way to test would be trying the mice on a different device.

M.S.C.E. (M.Sc. Computer Engineering), IT specialist in a hospital, 32+ years of gaming, 20+ years of computer enthusiasm, Geek, Trekkie, anime fan

  • Main PC: AMD Ryzen 7 5800X3D - EK AIO 360 D-RGB - Arctic Cooling MX-4 - Asus Prime X570-P - 4x8GB DDR4 3200 HyperX Fury CL16 - Sapphire AMD Radeon 6950XT Nitro+ - 1TB Kingston Fury Renegade - 2TB Kingston Fury Renegade - 512GB ADATA SU800 - 960GB Kingston A400 - Seasonic PX-850 850W  - custom black ATX and EPS cables - Fractal Design Define R5 Blackout - Windows 11 x64 23H2 - 3 Arctic Cooling P14 PWM PST - 5 Arctic Cooling P12 PWM PST
  • Peripherals: LG 32GK650F - Dell P2319h - Logitech G Pro X Superlight with Tiger Ice - Madlions MAD 68HE Pro - EndGame Gear MPC890 - Genius HF 1250B - Akliam PD4 - Sennheiser HD 560s - Tripowin Vivace - Simgot EM6L - Truthear Zero - QKZ x HBB - 7Hz Salnotes Zero - Logitech C270 - Behringer PS400 - BM700  - Colormunki Smile - Speedlink Torid - Jysk Stenderup - LG 24x External DVD writer - Konig smart card reader
  • Laptop: Acer E5–575G-386R 15.6" 1080p (i3 6100U + 12GB DDR4 (4GB+8GB) + GeForce 940MX + 256GB nVME) Win 10 Pro x64 22H2 - Logitech G305 + AAA Lithium battery
  • Networking: Asus TUF Gaming AX6000 - Huawei OptiXstar EG8145X6-10 - 1000/500 Mbps fiber optic Internet access
  • TV and gadgets: TCL 50EP680 50" 4K LED + Sharp HT-SB100 75W RMS soundbar - Samsung Galaxy Tab A8 10.1" - OnePlus 13 16GB/512GB - OnePlus 9 256GB - Olymous Cameda C-160 - GameBoy Color - Miyoo A30 Spruce
  • Streaming/Server/Storage PC: AMD Ryzen 5 3600 - LC-Power LC-CC-120 - MSI B450 Tomahawk Max - 2x4GB ADATA 2666 DDR4 - 120GB Kingston V300 - Toshiba DT01ACA100 1TB - Toshiba DT01ACA200 2TB - 2x WD Green 2TB - Sapphire Pulse AMD Radeon R9 380X - 550W EVGA G3 SuperNova - Chieftec Giga DF-01B - White Shark Spartan X keyboard - Roccat Kone Pure Military Desert strike - Logitech S-220 - Philips 226L
  • Livingroom PC (dad uses): AMD FX 8300 - Arctic Freezer 64 - Asus M5A97 R2.0 Evo - 2x4 GB DDR3 1833 Kingston - MSI Radeon HD 7770 1GB OC - 120GB Adata SSD - 500W Fractal Design Essence - DVD-RW - Samsung SM 2253BW - Logitech G710+ - wireless vertical mouse - MS 2.0 speakers
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17 minutes ago, 191x7 said:

How old are the mice and how much use did they get?

It might also be the USB port loosing power for a moment.

The only way to test would be trying the mice on a different device.

None of them were over a year old except the G602 wireless, thats when I bought the razer and it happened with that one too, so I then thought *hmm maybe its a signal thing* and got this wired one, and now its happening with this one too. Its about a year or 2 old I think? Ill reply back to confirm let me check my amazon history.

 

Edit: September 13th 2020, so its like a year and a half-ish?

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2 hours ago, OnionRings said:

Yes I mentioned it in the post, if had a wireless razer, wireless Logitech, and wired Logitech. Happens on all 3.

 

I am doubtful, Its a holding issue not a clicking issue. I hold down right mouse button to aim down sights in these games, and while im aiming/shooting the mouse just sometimes stops, and no I am not letting go, and it happens regardless of how light or hard I press and hold the button.

Razor would be a different app, but it’s another company that does apps on top of drivers.  Maybe do uninstalls for both and try some low end garbage mouse out of a thrift store.  It can even have a ball in it.  Basically anything low end with no software that uses the generic driver that comes with windows.  Something out of the spare parts drawer is fine.  Not something you want to spend more than a couple bucks on.  It’s not a question of if it’s any good (it won’t be) it’s just a test.  If it happens then too it has nothing to do with mouse drivers.

Edited by Bombastinator

Not a pro, not even very good.  I’m just old and have time currently.  Assuming I know a lot about computers can be a mistake.

 

Life is like a bowl of chocolates: there are all these little crinkly paper cups everywhere.

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19 minutes ago, Bombastinator said:

Razor would be a different app, but it’s another company that does apps on top of drivers.  Maybe do uninstalls for both and try some low end garbage mouse out of a thrift store.  It can even have a ball in it.  Basically anything low end with no software that uses the generic driver that comes with windows.  Something out of the spare parts drawer is fine.  Not something you want to spend more than a couple bucks on.  It’s not a question of if it’s any good (it won’t be) it’s just a test.  If it happens then too it has nothing to do with mouse drivers.

Im broke right now but I can try that later, for now ill give a reinstall a try.

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1 minute ago, OnionRings said:

Im broke right now but I can try that later, for now ill give a reinstall a try.

This is a “borrow one from your grandma’s machine kind of thing.  Literally any cheap piece of garbage. You could also I suppose remove both drivers and reinstall only one.  If it doesn’t work it doesn’t mean anything though.

Not a pro, not even very good.  I’m just old and have time currently.  Assuming I know a lot about computers can be a mistake.

 

Life is like a bowl of chocolates: there are all these little crinkly paper cups everywhere.

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20 minutes ago, Bombastinator said:

This is a “borrow one from your grandma’s machine kind of thing.  Literally any cheap piece of garbage. You could also I suppose remove both drivers and reinstall only one.  If it doesn’t work it doesn’t mean anything though.

I don't even have a grandma near me that uses an old PC sadly, and no mice in my home are that old, we all own modern mice. I could borrow my sisters or brother in laws but they aren't old, but it would help me determine if my mouse in specific is the problem I guess.

 

Also found this image.png.5d6d74022ae4c665b48185113a01346d.pngis it normal for windows to recognize my mouse 3 times?

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1 minute ago, OnionRings said:

I don't even have a grandma near me that uses an old PC sadly, and no mice in my home are that old, we all own modern mice. I could borrow my sisters or brother in laws but they aren't old, but it would help me determine if my mouse in specific is the problem I guess.

 

Also found this image.png.5d6d74022ae4c665b48185113a01346d.pngis it normal for windows to recognize my mouse 3 times?

I removed the bottom 2, nothing happened, I removed the top and my mouse stopped working. I plugged it back in and all 3 came back, I removed the bottom 2 again. I'm also going to uninstall the logitech software and reinstall it.

Jesus is the way, the truth, and the life.

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23 minutes ago, OnionRings said:

I don't even have a grandma near me that uses an old PC sadly, and no mice in my home are that old, we all own modern mice. I could borrow my sisters or brother in laws but they aren't old, but it would help me determine if my mouse in specific is the problem I guess.

 

Also found this image.png.5d6d74022ae4c665b48185113a01346d.pngis it normal for windows to recognize my mouse 3 times?

The key is cheapass.  You want any low end mouse that doesn’t use any 3rd party drivers.  Anything Logitech for example wouldn’t work even if it was old.  Some mice still function with a generic driver they just lose features.  I wonder if loading into safe mode would work. If the mice function in safe mode it will. Safe mode shuts down all current drivers and uses only known old safe stuff microsoft picked.  Safe mode with networking probably as that will make downloading a new driver easier. Getting into safe mode in win10 is annoying though.  Requires two restarts. The first  to even get to the option to load safe mode (iirc it’s inside advanced options) and the second to actually boot into it.  Fastest way I know of is shutdown, then start while holding down left shift.  This I think gets you to being able to pick advanced options.  I don’t remember exactly.  There will undoubtedly be better directions online somewhere.

Edited by Bombastinator

Not a pro, not even very good.  I’m just old and have time currently.  Assuming I know a lot about computers can be a mistake.

 

Life is like a bowl of chocolates: there are all these little crinkly paper cups everywhere.

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22 minutes ago, OnionRings said:

I removed the bottom 2, nothing happened, I removed the top and my mouse stopped working. I plugged it back in and all 3 came back, I removed the bottom 2 again. I'm also going to uninstall the logitech software and reinstall it.

Huh?  I don’t know what that means.

Not a pro, not even very good.  I’m just old and have time currently.  Assuming I know a lot about computers can be a mistake.

 

Life is like a bowl of chocolates: there are all these little crinkly paper cups everywhere.

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14 minutes ago, Bombastinator said:

Huh?  I don’t know what that means.

It was regarding my picture I sent earlier where my device manager shows three mice.

I also recorded this so you can get an idea what I'm experiencing. 

 

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Connect the mouse to a different device and try it out.

M.S.C.E. (M.Sc. Computer Engineering), IT specialist in a hospital, 32+ years of gaming, 20+ years of computer enthusiasm, Geek, Trekkie, anime fan

  • Main PC: AMD Ryzen 7 5800X3D - EK AIO 360 D-RGB - Arctic Cooling MX-4 - Asus Prime X570-P - 4x8GB DDR4 3200 HyperX Fury CL16 - Sapphire AMD Radeon 6950XT Nitro+ - 1TB Kingston Fury Renegade - 2TB Kingston Fury Renegade - 512GB ADATA SU800 - 960GB Kingston A400 - Seasonic PX-850 850W  - custom black ATX and EPS cables - Fractal Design Define R5 Blackout - Windows 11 x64 23H2 - 3 Arctic Cooling P14 PWM PST - 5 Arctic Cooling P12 PWM PST
  • Peripherals: LG 32GK650F - Dell P2319h - Logitech G Pro X Superlight with Tiger Ice - Madlions MAD 68HE Pro - EndGame Gear MPC890 - Genius HF 1250B - Akliam PD4 - Sennheiser HD 560s - Tripowin Vivace - Simgot EM6L - Truthear Zero - QKZ x HBB - 7Hz Salnotes Zero - Logitech C270 - Behringer PS400 - BM700  - Colormunki Smile - Speedlink Torid - Jysk Stenderup - LG 24x External DVD writer - Konig smart card reader
  • Laptop: Acer E5–575G-386R 15.6" 1080p (i3 6100U + 12GB DDR4 (4GB+8GB) + GeForce 940MX + 256GB nVME) Win 10 Pro x64 22H2 - Logitech G305 + AAA Lithium battery
  • Networking: Asus TUF Gaming AX6000 - Huawei OptiXstar EG8145X6-10 - 1000/500 Mbps fiber optic Internet access
  • TV and gadgets: TCL 50EP680 50" 4K LED + Sharp HT-SB100 75W RMS soundbar - Samsung Galaxy Tab A8 10.1" - OnePlus 13 16GB/512GB - OnePlus 9 256GB - Olymous Cameda C-160 - GameBoy Color - Miyoo A30 Spruce
  • Streaming/Server/Storage PC: AMD Ryzen 5 3600 - LC-Power LC-CC-120 - MSI B450 Tomahawk Max - 2x4GB ADATA 2666 DDR4 - 120GB Kingston V300 - Toshiba DT01ACA100 1TB - Toshiba DT01ACA200 2TB - 2x WD Green 2TB - Sapphire Pulse AMD Radeon R9 380X - 550W EVGA G3 SuperNova - Chieftec Giga DF-01B - White Shark Spartan X keyboard - Roccat Kone Pure Military Desert strike - Logitech S-220 - Philips 226L
  • Livingroom PC (dad uses): AMD FX 8300 - Arctic Freezer 64 - Asus M5A97 R2.0 Evo - 2x4 GB DDR3 1833 Kingston - MSI Radeon HD 7770 1GB OC - 120GB Adata SSD - 500W Fractal Design Essence - DVD-RW - Samsung SM 2253BW - Logitech G710+ - wireless vertical mouse - MS 2.0 speakers
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11 minutes ago, 191x7 said:

Connect the mouse to a different device and try it out.

Ill try this out tomorrow and get back to yall with results.

Jesus is the way, the truth, and the life.

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@191x7
Alright I've tested it out on my brother in laws PC and its still happening, so it has to be the mouse then, but it happened on my past 2 mice as well, what on earth? Are all 3 of them just junk garbage? I don't know. I can't afford a new mouse right now, so I just deal with it I guess. I did use some canned air under the mouse buttons so ill see if that does do anything, but I can't imagine there anything in there, the gap is so small.

Jesus is the way, the truth, and the life.

Please Quote me when replying.
CPU
 - Ryzen 7 5800X3D | RAM - 32GB DDR4 4000Mhz | MB - MSI B550 A-PRO | Boot - 2TB NVME 980 Evo Plus | GPU - EVGA FTW3 RTX 3090 24GB

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8 hours ago, OnionRings said:

@191x7
Alright I've tested it out on my brother in laws PC and its still happening, so it has to be the mouse then, but it happened on my past 2 mice as well, what on earth? Are all 3 of them just junk garbage? I don't know. I can't afford a new mouse right now, so I just deal with it I guess. I did use some canned air under the mouse buttons so ill see if that does do anything, but I can't imagine there anything in there, the gap is so small.

You can open the mice, open the switch and straighten the spring.

Or, if you can solder, you can replace the switches.

It's a common thing to happen, usually with the left because those are used a lot more.

M.S.C.E. (M.Sc. Computer Engineering), IT specialist in a hospital, 32+ years of gaming, 20+ years of computer enthusiasm, Geek, Trekkie, anime fan

  • Main PC: AMD Ryzen 7 5800X3D - EK AIO 360 D-RGB - Arctic Cooling MX-4 - Asus Prime X570-P - 4x8GB DDR4 3200 HyperX Fury CL16 - Sapphire AMD Radeon 6950XT Nitro+ - 1TB Kingston Fury Renegade - 2TB Kingston Fury Renegade - 512GB ADATA SU800 - 960GB Kingston A400 - Seasonic PX-850 850W  - custom black ATX and EPS cables - Fractal Design Define R5 Blackout - Windows 11 x64 23H2 - 3 Arctic Cooling P14 PWM PST - 5 Arctic Cooling P12 PWM PST
  • Peripherals: LG 32GK650F - Dell P2319h - Logitech G Pro X Superlight with Tiger Ice - Madlions MAD 68HE Pro - EndGame Gear MPC890 - Genius HF 1250B - Akliam PD4 - Sennheiser HD 560s - Tripowin Vivace - Simgot EM6L - Truthear Zero - QKZ x HBB - 7Hz Salnotes Zero - Logitech C270 - Behringer PS400 - BM700  - Colormunki Smile - Speedlink Torid - Jysk Stenderup - LG 24x External DVD writer - Konig smart card reader
  • Laptop: Acer E5–575G-386R 15.6" 1080p (i3 6100U + 12GB DDR4 (4GB+8GB) + GeForce 940MX + 256GB nVME) Win 10 Pro x64 22H2 - Logitech G305 + AAA Lithium battery
  • Networking: Asus TUF Gaming AX6000 - Huawei OptiXstar EG8145X6-10 - 1000/500 Mbps fiber optic Internet access
  • TV and gadgets: TCL 50EP680 50" 4K LED + Sharp HT-SB100 75W RMS soundbar - Samsung Galaxy Tab A8 10.1" - OnePlus 13 16GB/512GB - OnePlus 9 256GB - Olymous Cameda C-160 - GameBoy Color - Miyoo A30 Spruce
  • Streaming/Server/Storage PC: AMD Ryzen 5 3600 - LC-Power LC-CC-120 - MSI B450 Tomahawk Max - 2x4GB ADATA 2666 DDR4 - 120GB Kingston V300 - Toshiba DT01ACA100 1TB - Toshiba DT01ACA200 2TB - 2x WD Green 2TB - Sapphire Pulse AMD Radeon R9 380X - 550W EVGA G3 SuperNova - Chieftec Giga DF-01B - White Shark Spartan X keyboard - Roccat Kone Pure Military Desert strike - Logitech S-220 - Philips 226L
  • Livingroom PC (dad uses): AMD FX 8300 - Arctic Freezer 64 - Asus M5A97 R2.0 Evo - 2x4 GB DDR3 1833 Kingston - MSI Radeon HD 7770 1GB OC - 120GB Adata SSD - 500W Fractal Design Essence - DVD-RW - Samsung SM 2253BW - Logitech G710+ - wireless vertical mouse - MS 2.0 speakers
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15 hours ago, 191x7 said:

You can open the mice, open the switch and straighten the spring.

Or, if you can solder, you can replace the switches.

It's a common thing to happen, usually with the left because those are used a lot more.

Ill wait until I have money that way if I break it more, I can just buy a new one lol.

Jesus is the way, the truth, and the life.

Please Quote me when replying.
CPU
 - Ryzen 7 5800X3D | RAM - 32GB DDR4 4000Mhz | MB - MSI B550 A-PRO | Boot - 2TB NVME 980 Evo Plus | GPU - EVGA FTW3 RTX 3090 24GB

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