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A while back I tried to build a PC. When I turned it on it made an electrical flash from the motherboard. I turned off everything, and removed the cable completely which connected the PSU and the switch on my wall (a mistake, I assume). After checking things for burns, making sure all cables were correctly positioned etc. I plugged it all in again and another flash appeared from the mobo. The motherboard had a number of small lights which indicates hardware errors. Both the RAM and GPU showed an error on the board. I since moved the hardware to a different board and PSU, where the RAM and GPU are doing just fine (phew!), so assume the errors camemfrom the sockets from then motherboard. From what I saw, the flashes came from those sockets, when I had powered it on.

 

I have now written the old mobo off as a loss, but I am wondering if the PSU is safe to try and use again, or if it actually caused the error (the flashes)… The PSU is a Corsair RM750x (2018), which is seems good, so I would love to repurpose it.

 

How would you recommend for me to proceed to test if the PSU is safe to use; is the paper clip test enough etc?

https://help.corsair.com/hc/en-us/articles/360025085372-How-to-Test-a-power-supply-unit

 

ps. Sorry about my broken English. I am not a native.

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I only used the cables, which came with the PSU. There might have been somekind of a splitter on the gpu, which I got from a prebuild HP Omen. I am not sure, if I changed the last bit connected to the GPU.

 

The parts are from the prebuild:

i5-11400f

RTX 3070 

DDR4, 3200 mhz RAM

WD Black nvme SSD 500 gb

Z590 HP mobo (I am now reusing it)


I wanted to do a case swap with these parts:

 

New cooler: Arctic Freezer 34 eSports DUO

New case: Corsair 4000d airflow 

New fans: Arctic P12 PWM PST 

 

Ditched mobo: Gigabyte B560 aorus pro AX

 

PSU: corsair RM750x

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10 minutes ago, --SID-- said:

Don't use the splitter. Only use tha cables that came with the RM750x.

You know the Rm750x comes with two splitters right?

image.png.c384b408beb4f9bb3ab9a8978d80469f.png

I'm not actually trying to be as grumpy as it seems.

I will find your mentions of Ikea or Gnome and I will /s post. 

Project Hot Box

CPU 13900k, Motherboard Gigabyte Aorus Elite AX, RAM CORSAIR Vengeance 4x16gb 5200 MHZ, GPU Zotac RTX 4090 Trinity OC, Case Fractal Pop Air XL, Storage Sabrent Rocket Q4 2tbCORSAIR Force Series MP510 1920GB NVMe, CORSAIR FORCE Series MP510 960GB NVMe, PSU CORSAIR HX1000i, Cooling Corsair XC8 CPU block, Bykski GPU block, 360mm and 280mm radiator, Displays Odyssey G9, LG 34UC98-W 34-Inch,Keyboard Mountain Everest Max, Mouse Mountain Makalu 67, Sound AT2035, Massdrop 6xx headphones, Go XLR 

Oppbevaring

CPU i9-9900k, Motherboard, ASUS Rog Maximus Code XI, RAM, 48GB Corsair Vengeance LPX 32GB 3200 mhz (2x16)+(2x8) GPUs Asus ROG Strix 2070 8gb, PNY 1080, Nvidia 1080, Case Mining Frame, 2x Storage Samsung 860 Evo 500 GB, PSU Corsair RM1000x and RM850x, Cooling Asus Rog Ryuo 240 with Noctua NF-12 fans

 

Why is the 5800x so hot?

 

 

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Thank you guys. I will make absolutely sure to do that next time.
 

As stated above, I am not sure if I changed it or not, as I do not have pics.

 

However, I would like to check the PSU first. From what I have read the paper clip thing is not 100 % certain. Do you know other tricks apart from buying a PSU tester?

 

E: My machine powered on after the flashes, so the PSU was running. But can it be dangerous for the other hardware anyways; and how do I test to prevent the risk of a faulty psu?

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6 minutes ago, Birkovic said:

Thank you guys. I will make absolutely sure to do that next time.
 

As stated above, I am not sure if I changed it or not, as I do not have pics.

 

However, I would like to check the PSU first. From what I have read the paper clip thing is not 100 % certain. Do you know other tricks apart from buying a PSU tester?

 

E: My machine powered on after the flashes, so the PSU was running. But can it be dangerous for the other hardware anyways; and how do I test to prevent the risk of a faulty psu?

 

24 minutes ago, IkeaGnome said:

image.png.c384b408beb4f9bb3ab9a8978d80469f.png

Are you using these cables, or different ones that you're calling splitters?

I'm not actually trying to be as grumpy as it seems.

I will find your mentions of Ikea or Gnome and I will /s post. 

Project Hot Box

CPU 13900k, Motherboard Gigabyte Aorus Elite AX, RAM CORSAIR Vengeance 4x16gb 5200 MHZ, GPU Zotac RTX 4090 Trinity OC, Case Fractal Pop Air XL, Storage Sabrent Rocket Q4 2tbCORSAIR Force Series MP510 1920GB NVMe, CORSAIR FORCE Series MP510 960GB NVMe, PSU CORSAIR HX1000i, Cooling Corsair XC8 CPU block, Bykski GPU block, 360mm and 280mm radiator, Displays Odyssey G9, LG 34UC98-W 34-Inch,Keyboard Mountain Everest Max, Mouse Mountain Makalu 67, Sound AT2035, Massdrop 6xx headphones, Go XLR 

Oppbevaring

CPU i9-9900k, Motherboard, ASUS Rog Maximus Code XI, RAM, 48GB Corsair Vengeance LPX 32GB 3200 mhz (2x16)+(2x8) GPUs Asus ROG Strix 2070 8gb, PNY 1080, Nvidia 1080, Case Mining Frame, 2x Storage Samsung 860 Evo 500 GB, PSU Corsair RM1000x and RM850x, Cooling Asus Rog Ryuo 240 with Noctua NF-12 fans

 

Why is the 5800x so hot?

 

 

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As stated earlier, I built a system a while back (4~ months) and took it apart again, when I failed. I am not completely sure if I used that cable or not. I believe I did, but I chose to state, that I am not sure, so I did not rule it out, when presenting the case, as I am only 90 % sure, and I did not take pictures at the time, as I was quiet furious with myself.

 

As it has been a while, I wanted to take the PSU out of the closet and test it to see, if it was safe to use it; if it was the cause of the issues, so to speak.

 

If I reuse it, I will only use the wires from the PSU-box. I have read up on the issues with mixing cables, after the incident. Again, I can not say for certain, if I only used Corsairs cables or not, sorry.

 

Do you guys know, how I can test the unit? (Apart from buying a PSU tester or building a testbench)

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4 minutes ago, Birkovic said:

Do you guys know, how I can test the unit?

Best way to do this is a simple $20 PSU tester. I've had one in my tool kit for probably 10-12 years now.

 

Other way you could do it is with a multimeter and probe the cables, but that won't analyze the PSU and tell you all the details you need to determine if the PSU is truly healthy, just the basics.

The New Machine: Intel 11700K / Strix Z590-A WIFI II / Patriot Viper Steel 4400MHz 2x8GB / Gigabyte RTX 3080 Gaming OC w/ Bykski WB / x4 1TB SSDs (x2 M.2, x2 2.5) / Corsair 5000D Airflow White / EVGA G6 1000W / Custom Loop CPU & GPU

 

The Rainbow X58: i7 975 Extreme Edition @4.2GHz, Asus Sabertooth X58, 6x2GB Mushkin Redline DDR3-1600 @2000MHz, SP 256GB Gen3 M.2 w/ Sabrent M.2 to PCI-E, Inno3D GTX 580 x2 SLI w/ Heatkiller waterblocks, Custom loop in NZXT Phantom White, Corsair XR7 360 rad hanging off the rear end, 360 slim rad up top. RGB everywhere.

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I only build/upgrade a few per decade, so I was hoping not to have to spend money on one 😀 I live in a small northern european country, where the selection of PSU testers is quiet limited. The all cost from something like 40-50 $. The cheapest is something like the pic below, and the expensive one is a Thermaltake Doctor Power II. Is it worth getting the Thermaltake? (It has nice reviews on Amazon)

 

the cheap one:

image.jpeg.ac97d649552849c20fe502afcf67679c.jpeg

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1 hour ago, Birkovic said:

I only build/upgrade a few per decade, so I was hoping not to have to spend money on one 😀 I live in a small northern european country, where the selection of PSU testers is quiet limited. The all cost from something like 40-50 $. The cheapest is something like the pic below, and the expensive one is a Thermaltake Doctor Power II. Is it worth getting the Thermaltake? (It has nice reviews on Amazon)

The cheap one will work perfectly fine, for many years, it's identical to mine.

The New Machine: Intel 11700K / Strix Z590-A WIFI II / Patriot Viper Steel 4400MHz 2x8GB / Gigabyte RTX 3080 Gaming OC w/ Bykski WB / x4 1TB SSDs (x2 M.2, x2 2.5) / Corsair 5000D Airflow White / EVGA G6 1000W / Custom Loop CPU & GPU

 

The Rainbow X58: i7 975 Extreme Edition @4.2GHz, Asus Sabertooth X58, 6x2GB Mushkin Redline DDR3-1600 @2000MHz, SP 256GB Gen3 M.2 w/ Sabrent M.2 to PCI-E, Inno3D GTX 580 x2 SLI w/ Heatkiller waterblocks, Custom loop in NZXT Phantom White, Corsair XR7 360 rad hanging off the rear end, 360 slim rad up top. RGB everywhere.

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