Two questions, one post.

[QuikThinx_AllThots]

Hello,

 

For work i frequently travel between Europe (typically France) and DC (or Maryland). Usually 8-10 months at a time.

 

I've been gaming on my Console and laptop no problem.

 

I'm going to switch back to desktop but this creates two questions:

 

1) my laptop and PS4 adapt to the different voltages automagically what do I need to look for on a PC build to ensure the same?

 

2) any thoughts on the best way to get a tower across the Atlantic? Carry on? Checked baggage and all the bubble wrap?

 

Thanks!

[Skiiwee29]

1 minute ago, QuikThinx_AllThots said:

1) my laptop and PS4 adapt to the different voltages automagically what do I need to look for on a PC build to ensure the same?

Make sure your PSU has a voltage switch to switch between... however.. make ABSOLUTELY sure you're on the right voltage setting for your power grid before powering up otherwise you will absolutely release the magic smoke.

 

Quote

2) any thoughts on the best way to get a tower across the Atlantic? Carry on? Checked baggage and all the bubble wrap?

Most case boxes should be sufficient as long as it has decent foam, and not the cheap junk, but that would likely be fine as well. Then just add it to your checked baggage and pad it with like clothes and such is what I would do personally. I presume its going to be a fully air cooled non custom water cooled system. 

[Spotty]

1 minute ago, QuikThinx_AllThots said:

1) my laptop and PS4 adapt to the different voltages automagically what do I need to look for on a PC build to ensure the same?

Check the power supply's input range. On the label of the power supply it will show what the voltage input range is. America uses 120V AC and Europe uses 230V. 

Power supplies will be either 100-240V (Full range) or 200-240V (commonly known as "230V only"). PSUs sold in America will be full range (100-240V). As long as you buy a full range PSU the only issue you will face is swapping the power cables for the different outlet plugs. The power cable from the PSU that plugs in to the wall is a standard cable with a C13 connector and you can just buy a cable in France with their plug on the end of the cable.

 

An example of a 100-240V PSU which would work both in USA and Europe:

 

An example of a 200-240V PSU which will work in Europe but not in America:

 

2 minutes ago, Skiiwee29 said:

Make sure your PSU has a voltage switch to switch between... however.. make ABSOLUTELY sure you're on the right voltage setting for your power grid before powering up otherwise you will absolutely release the magic smoke.

Any PSU with aPFC (basically anything sold in the last 15 years not bought for $4 from AliExpress) will not have a voltage switch. Voltage switching is done automatically. Any PSU with a voltage switch means it's incredibly old and crappy and should be thrown in the garbage.

[mariushm]

17 minutes ago, QuikThinx_AllThots said:

Hello,

 

For work i frequently travel between Europe (typically France) and DC (or Maryland). Usually 8-10 months at a time.

 

I've been gaming on my Console and laptop no problem.

 

I'm going to switch back to desktop but this creates two questions:

 

1) my laptop and PS4 adapt to the different voltages automagically what do I need to look for on a PC build to ensure the same?

 

2) any thoughts on the best way to get a tower across the Atlantic? Carry on? Checked baggage and all the bubble wrap?

 

Thanks!

I wouldn't carry the computer case with me on the plane unless it's a small volume one (ITX or similar) or if you don't have a fixed location (but you say 8-10 months at a time) . You can buy a computer case in France or US for $40-$50 (or local equivalent)

You can get an ITX motherboard, have a low profile stock cooler, a couple sticks of ram and a 2.5" SSD or m.2 SSD on the motherboard... all this can be in a cardboard box slightly taller than a regular itx motherboard case.  A power supply would use about the same amount of volume.  

All that's left is the video card which can stay in its own box.

So all 3 could easily fit in a gym back or something like that, that you can carry with you..

 

[Biohazard777]

50 minutes ago, mariushm said:

I wouldn't carry the computer case with me on the plane unless it's a small volume one (ITX or similar) or if you don't have a fixed location (but you say 8-10 months at a time) . You can buy a computer case in France or US for $40-$50 (or local equivalent)

You can get an ITX motherboard, have a low profile stock cooler, a couple sticks of ram and a 2.5" SSD or m.2 SSD on the motherboard... all this can be in a cardboard box slightly taller than a regular itx motherboard case.  A power supply would use about the same amount of volume.  

All that's left is the video card which can stay in its own box.

So all 3 could easily fit in a gym back or something like that, that you can carry with you..

 

PSU's can be heavy. ~2 kg... Id probably just buy buy two and leave them in inside cases at both locations. Sure it would cost 100-120$ more but that is the price I would gladly pay for not having to lug that around with me. Plus no cable management after each trip.

[SimplyGone]

4 hours ago, Skiiwee29 said:

Make sure your PSU has a voltage switch to switch between... however.. make ABSOLUTELY sure you're on the right voltage setting for your power grid before powering up otherwise you will absolutely release the magic smoke.

 

Most case boxes should be sufficient as long as it has decent foam, and not the cheap junk, but that would likely be fine as well. Then just add it to your checked baggage and pad it with like clothes and such is what I would do personally. I presume its going to be a fully air cooled non custom water cooled system. 

When i worked for Bromley College's IT department back in the late 90's  We had just got in a brand new projector (forget how much it was) Anyway's some of the lecturers wanted to borrow it.....a couple of the other guys had set it up for them and left it in there care...It came back 2 days later with a complaint it had 'suddenly' stopped working.  Yep, you've guessed it. When we looked at it, that little red switch was jammed in the 110v direction