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I'm planning out my first watercooling loop, and I need some help figuring out a few things. First off, my computer is in the P500a and I am trying to decide what size radiators I want to put in. I was originally thinking about doing 2x420mm rads, but I don't think those will fit, so now I'm trying to decided between a 420mm for the front and 360mm for the top, or just 2x360mm for the front and top. Secondly, I am trying to figure out what kind of biocide I would need to put in my loop. The watercooling parts are as follows:

 

CPU Block: https://www.ekwb.com/shop/ek-quantum-velocity-d-rgb-amd-nickel-plexi

GPU Block: https://www.ekwb.com/shop/ek-quantum-vector-xc3-rtx-3080-3090-d-rgb-nickel-plexi

Tubing: https://www.ekwb.com/shop/ek-tube-zmt-matte-black-15-9-9-5mm-3m-retail

 

I attached a diagram of how I planned the loop, but am having second thoughts on the cpu and gpu being in series one right after the other. Not sure if that really matters, but that's why I'm here. (MS paint does not an artist make)

 

The tubing is not set in stone (not 100% sure how the different diameters of the tubing would effect the loop) and I plan on buying EK Quantum Torque fittings for whatever tubing fits. I am also aware of how over kill 2x360mm rads or more is, but my entire system is overkill, so why not make my watercooling loop overkill too.

Watercooling Loop.png

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Haven't built in the case personally so not sure if it'll work, but make sure the top can still support a 360mm rad if you got a 420mm in the front+25mm for fans. Tubing is fine, just get fittings that fit.  Pure distilled water without any biocide worked fine for me back when I watercooled, but I also did clean my loop once every few months. 

Having cpu after gpu will have a nearly immeasurable effect as water is moving too fast for the gpu to cause a hotter cpu temp. 

Also add a drain valve towards the bottom of your loop - makes life a lot easier.

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Think the inlet is on the left of the cpu block. So youd have to flip it upside down if you want to stay consistent to the diagram. The ring is separate so that should work.

 

Id find out what actually fits and go from there. I prefer 140mm stuff so id do the 420 front and 280 top. Easier to config for positive airflow.

 

Not sure what other peoples luck is zmt, but I have to clean mine out pretty well or else it clogs my loop. But I do love it. Tend to just run bitspower barb fittings and end up easier and cleaner.

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The diagram was mainly a meme to figure out the fittings I would need. I don't think the gpu is directional though, so would it really matter? I was thinking about going with a 280 on the top, but I don't know if i want a gap in the top. I might flush the tubing before I install it in my system to try to get some of the gunk out first.

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2 minutes ago, ZFshmN said:

The diagram was mainly a meme to figure out the fittings I would need. I don't think the gpu is directional though, so would it really matter? I was thinking about going with a 280 on the top, but I don't know if i want a gap in the top. I might flush the tubing before I install it in my system to try to get some of the gunk out first.

Well the gpu could be as well. Look up the instructions. They tend to be, especially all the recent stuff. Theres gonna be a gap somewhere or its gonna be offset in some way, even more so with the fans if you do push on each rad. But should be plenty of builds out there that would tell you how it looks.

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2 minutes ago, Mick Naughty said:

Well the gpu could be as well. Look up the instructions. They tend to be, especially all the recent stuff. Theres gonna be a gap somewhere or its gonna be offset in some way, even more so with the fans if you do push on each rad. But should be plenty of builds out there that would tell you how it looks.

It doesn't seem to be directional, so I think I am in the clear there.

Quote on the page from EK: "The jet plate and fin structure geometry have been optimized to provide even flow distribution with minimal losses and optimal performance when used in any given coolant flow orientation."

 

Also, I've heard of any coolant other than normal distilled water clogging up blocks. What are the odds that the clear Cryofuel (https://www.ekwb.com/shop/ek-cryofuel-clear-premix-1000ml) would do that too?

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6 hours ago, ZFshmN said:

was originally thinking about doing 2x420mm rads, but I don't think those will fit, so now I'm trying to decided between a 420mm for the front and 360mm for the top, or just 2x360mm for the front and top

Looking at the Phanteks P500a's specs 2x420 obviously doesn't fit. 2x360, 360+420 (tight) or 280+420. Don't go too thick for the radiators: won't help much and takes unnecessary space.

 

6 hours ago, ZFshmN said:

, but am having second thoughts on the cpu and gpu being in series one right after the other. Not sure if that really matters

Loop order doesn't matter in real world applications. We're talking about very low single digit K difference between inlet and outlet of your blocks depending on flowrate. That's most likely below the range of some random background process spiking up. CPU is also pretty ignorant to a point towards temperature while the GPU is a lot more sensitive in terms of boost speeds. Overall it levels all out. 

 

2 hours ago, ZFshmN said:

Quote on the page from EK: "The jet plate and fin structure geometry have been optimized to provide even flow distribution with minimal losses and optimal performance when used in any given coolant flow orientation."

Well, the 30 series blocks from most manufacturers do have jet plates or designs close to jet plates. If that's direction agnostic then the whole point of jet plates is futile. Jet plates increase speed by decreasing the sectional surface area while maintaining the volume flow. That pushes the water deeper into the fin structure avoiding any dead spots die to turbulences. At least that's my understanding. Going the other way around will put the sped up volume behind the fin structure eliminating any benefit.

 

2 hours ago, ZFshmN said:

I've heard of any coolant other than normal distilled water clogging up blocks. What are the odds that the clear Cryofuel (https://www.ekwb.com/shop/ek-cryofuel-clear-premix-1000ml) would do that too

Clear or clear coloured coolants usually don't cause any exceptional clogging unless you neglect your loop or you didn't prep the radiators well enough. You still need to service your loop at least once a year.

 

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Yea, 2x420 was a super long shot, but doing a 420 and 360 would save me from unnecessarily buying fans so I just need to decide there. The loop order not being of much consequence to temps is great to hear because that will allow my loop to look decent. I will do a bit more looking into the gpu block to find out 100% if the flow direction matters. I also have no issue doing maintenance every year or so (or even twice a year), but every month seems like a pain in the ass lol.

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1 hour ago, ZFshmN said:

I also have no issue doing maintenance every year or so (or even twice a year), but every month seems like a pain in the ass lol

Every other month would only be necessary with those fancy showcase fluids like Vue. The rest is fine with once a year, opaque probably better twice a year.

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1 hour ago, bowrilla said:

Every other month would only be necessary with those fancy showcase fluids like Vue. The rest is fine with once a year, opaque probably better twice a year.

I really don't like the colored fluids and since I am going with non-clear tubing, it doesn't make much sense even if I wanted to do that

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On 7/16/2021 at 2:13 AM, ZFshmN said:

I really don't like the colored fluids and since I am going with non-clear tubing, it doesn't make much sense even if I wanted to do that

i'm using Barrow FBHKN-3/8-THICK as fittings, save me a lot $

image.png.b09ecc31f0d6ac9f1ca2eab92d562b4e.png

 

don't forget these as well

  • stop plugs
  • coolant temp sensor, you'll control fan rpm via this if your mobo has a input OR get a aquacomputer octo / corsair commander pro
  • drain port (i use ball valve for simplicity)
  • leak tester, this save me a few times
Ryzen 5700x + EK Supremacy D-RGB | 2x8 GB DDR4 Klevv 3200 MT/s | MSI B550M Mortar | Palit 3070 GamingPro LHR + Bykski N-PT3070PRO-X | Corsair RM750 | Alphacool EPDM + QDC | Aquacomputer Quadro + HighFlow2 | EK D5 XTOP | Freezemod 360 30mm rad + Barrow Dabel-20b 360 20mm | Barrow & Freezemod fittings | Corsair 5000D Airflow
 
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On 7/18/2021 at 12:59 AM, fonzz1e said:

i'm using Barrow FBHKN-3/8-THICK as fittings, save me a lot $

image.png.b09ecc31f0d6ac9f1ca2eab92d562b4e.png

 

don't forget these as well

  • stop plugs
  • coolant temp sensor, you'll control fan rpm via this if your mobo has a input OR get a aquacomputer octo / corsair commander pro
  • drain port (i use ball valve for simplicity)
  • leak tester, this save me a few times

I'll give those a look and thanks for the rest of those points! I definitely need all of those still

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