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Computer been unstable for years, nothing seem to remedy the problem.

Ungwelianti

2013 I purchased the base of the computer I'm still using today, currently has the following hardware.

 

Asus rampage IV Black edition

Xeon 2697v2

Corsair VENGEANCE® Pro Series — 32GB (4 x 8GB) DDR3 DRAM 2133MHz C11 (kit)

a couple of SSD's (2x250gb in Raid-0) 1x250gb System

2x NVMe drives in separate PCI-e controller cards (does not change the situation I'll describe below)

Zotac GTX 1070 AMP!

Corsair HX850i PSU (Brand new)

 

I have since around 2016 (as I can remember it) Had some problems with this setup. What happens is that randomly (it seems) mostly if I'm playing games, watching videos but really any moment my screen turns black, The sound is still running in the background and then the sound also stops, the computer never reboots or showing any crash/error messages it just turns black.

 

I have Change the PSU from a Corsair HX850W which I purchased when this computer was built, I have changed the CPU which used to be a i7 4930K, I have changed the GPU to the one in my GF's computer (GTX 970) Changed SSD's, tried different PCI-E ports for the GFX card, changing between GEN2 - GEN3 on PCI-E ports, upping voltages, overclocked, running defaults. Absolutely nothing seem to work and never did.

 

It seems like I can make all this somewhat more stable sometimes, but it's really a hit or miss with OC'n or not, but preliminary overvolting certain things in DIGI+ RAM and what not. I'm almost totally unable to run my DDR's at it's given clockspeed (I'm aware of the support only reaching to 1866mhz)

 

I have yet to try my gf's DDR's into my comp, but been running several memory tests and they have always come out clean.. Of course I have already suspected that my motherboard might be defect, as it's only THAT or the Memory modules left that could be faulty/causing this thing. But I have also read that others have had similar problems during the years of looking for a solution, and with this particular motherboard. 

 

I suppose it's quite obvious that it is my motherboard that is the culprit, but maybe there are some settings I could try in the BIOS that I haven't thought of or tried yet?

 

As mentioned above, sometimes it seem to be more stable with certain BIOS settings, but I'm not totally confident that has all to do with it. But I've had times where this problem haven't happened for up to or even over a week, when it usually happens almost every day, and even several times a day. I usually let my computer run during the night, maybe 50% of the times I have to reset the computer as it has locked this way.

 

Oh and every time this happens and when I restart, I'm hit with the message saying "the Overclock settings failed bla bla" something, Hit F1 for Setup, even though I haven't OC'd anything, but running Optimized defaults.

 

Also, I've always had problems with my Corsair Watercooling, I used to have a H100i, now I've got H150i Capellix, and literally every time this crash happens I have to go into bios and change USB , forgot what it was but say it's between LEGACY AUTO and ENABLED settings, or it won't register with windows, thus it's running in default hardware settings.

 

Also, the chipset (OC'd or not) Chipset/VRM's? The cooled parts on the Motherboard, seem quite hot to the touch, haven't got an IR thermometer so can't check that way, but it's showing ~80-95C in HWmonitor, although it's only showing ~40C in the BIOS, I know HWmonitor can show these temps wrong though. But I'm guessing if it was actually 90C+ then I'd actually get burned touching the heatsinks, so maybe it's all as it should on that part.

 

So, what's your take on this? Does it seem like it's the motherboard that's faulty, or could it be settings? Could it be something else disturbing the system, or is it the RAM?

 

I'm asking NOW, mainly because it's not the perfect time to get a new computer, everything is overpriced and/or hard to come by, so I would hope to find a solution (if there is one) Rather then the 2nd option. Economy isn't the best right now either

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You have the RAM installed in the correct slots? And you've tried running it at 1600MHz?

 

image.png.c43b25b1cec6de5bb519b4e1e075bc4b.png

BabyBlu (Primary): 

  • CPU: Intel Core i9 9900K @ up to 5.3GHz, 5.0GHz all-core, delidded
  • Motherboard: Asus Maximus XI Hero
  • RAM: G.Skill Trident Z RGB 4x8GB DDR4-3200 @ 4000MHz 16-18-18-34
  • GPU: MSI RTX 2080 Sea Hawk EK X, 2070MHz core, 8000MHz mem
  • Case: Phanteks Evolv X
  • Storage: XPG SX8200 Pro 2TB, 3x ADATASU800 1TB (RAID 0), Samsung 970 EVO Plus 500GB
  • PSU: Corsair HX1000i
  • Display: MSI MPG341CQR 34" 3440x1440 144Hz Freesync, Dell S2417DG 24" 2560x1440 165Hz Gsync
  • Cooling: Custom water loop (CPU & GPU), Radiators: 1x140mm(Back), 1x280mm(Top), 1x420mm(Front)
  • Keyboard: Corsair Strafe RGB (Cherry MX Brown)
  • Mouse: MasterMouse MM710
  • Headset: Corsair Void Pro RGB
  • OS: Windows 10 Pro

Roxanne (Wife Build):

  • CPU: Intel Core i7 4790K @ up to 5.0GHz, 4.8Ghz all-core, relidded w/ LM
  • Motherboard: Asus Z97A
  • RAM: G.Skill Sniper 4x8GB DDR3-2400 @ 10-12-12-24
  • GPU: EVGA GTX 1080 FTW2 w/ LM
  • Case: Corsair Vengeance C70, w/ Custom Side-Panel Window
  • Storage: Samsung 850 EVO 250GB, Samsung 860 EVO 1TB, Silicon Power A80 2TB NVME
  • PSU: Corsair AX760
  • Display: Samsung C27JG56 27" 2560x1440 144Hz Freesync
  • Cooling: Corsair H115i RGB
  • Keyboard: GMMK TKL(Kailh Box White)
  • Mouse: Glorious Model O-
  • Headset: SteelSeries Arctis 7
  • OS: Windows 10 Pro

BigBox (HTPC):

  • CPU: Ryzen 5800X3D
  • Motherboard: Gigabyte B550i Aorus Pro AX
  • RAM: Corsair Vengeance LPX 2x8GB DDR4-3600 @ 3600MHz 14-14-14-28
  • GPU: MSI RTX 3080 Ventus 3X Plus OC, de-shrouded, LM TIM, replaced mem therm pads
  • Case: Fractal Design Node 202
  • Storage: SP A80 1TB, WD Black SN770 2TB
  • PSU: Corsair SF600 Gold w/ NF-A9x14
  • Display: Samsung QN90A 65" (QLED, 4K, 120Hz, HDR, VRR)
  • Cooling: Thermalright AXP-100 Copper w/ NF-A12x15
  • Keyboard/Mouse: Rii i4
  • Controllers: 4X Xbox One & 2X N64 (with USB)
  • Sound: Denon AVR S760H with 5.1.2 Atmos setup.
  • OS: Windows 10 Pro

Harmonic (NAS/Game/Plex/Other Server):

  • CPU: Intel Core i7 6700
  • Motherboard: ASRock FATAL1TY H270M
  • RAM: 64GB DDR4-2133
  • GPU: Intel HD Graphics 530
  • Case: Fractal Design Define 7
  • HDD: 3X Seagate Exos X16 14TB in RAID 5
  • SSD: Inland Premium 512GB NVME, Sabrent 1TB NVME
  • Optical: BDXL WH14NS40 flashed to WH16NS60
  • PSU: Corsair CX450
  • Display: None
  • Cooling: Noctua NH-U14S
  • Keyboard/Mouse: None
  • OS: Windows 10 Pro

NAS:

  • Synology DS216J
  • 2x8TB WD Red NAS HDDs in RAID 1. 8TB usable space
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If you're OC-ing and you have stability issues, DON'T OC! Do a full CMOS reset on the system and let it run some benchmarks for a day or so. Keep it stock speeds, so NO OC!

 

First rule of overclocking: if you can't, don't.

"You don't need eyes to see, you need vision"

 

(Faithless, 'Reverence' from the 1996 Reverence album)

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3 minutes ago, Dutch_Master said:

If you're OC-ing and you have stability issues, DON'T OC!

 

11 minutes ago, Ungwelianti said:

tried different PCI-E ports for the GFX card, changing between GEN2 - GEN3 on PCI-E ports, upping voltages, overclocked, running defaults.

 

11 minutes ago, Ungwelianti said:

but it's really a hit or miss with OC'n or not

 

11 minutes ago, Ungwelianti said:

even though I haven't OC'd anything

 

11 minutes ago, Ungwelianti said:

(OC'd or not)

 

BabyBlu (Primary): 

  • CPU: Intel Core i9 9900K @ up to 5.3GHz, 5.0GHz all-core, delidded
  • Motherboard: Asus Maximus XI Hero
  • RAM: G.Skill Trident Z RGB 4x8GB DDR4-3200 @ 4000MHz 16-18-18-34
  • GPU: MSI RTX 2080 Sea Hawk EK X, 2070MHz core, 8000MHz mem
  • Case: Phanteks Evolv X
  • Storage: XPG SX8200 Pro 2TB, 3x ADATASU800 1TB (RAID 0), Samsung 970 EVO Plus 500GB
  • PSU: Corsair HX1000i
  • Display: MSI MPG341CQR 34" 3440x1440 144Hz Freesync, Dell S2417DG 24" 2560x1440 165Hz Gsync
  • Cooling: Custom water loop (CPU & GPU), Radiators: 1x140mm(Back), 1x280mm(Top), 1x420mm(Front)
  • Keyboard: Corsair Strafe RGB (Cherry MX Brown)
  • Mouse: MasterMouse MM710
  • Headset: Corsair Void Pro RGB
  • OS: Windows 10 Pro

Roxanne (Wife Build):

  • CPU: Intel Core i7 4790K @ up to 5.0GHz, 4.8Ghz all-core, relidded w/ LM
  • Motherboard: Asus Z97A
  • RAM: G.Skill Sniper 4x8GB DDR3-2400 @ 10-12-12-24
  • GPU: EVGA GTX 1080 FTW2 w/ LM
  • Case: Corsair Vengeance C70, w/ Custom Side-Panel Window
  • Storage: Samsung 850 EVO 250GB, Samsung 860 EVO 1TB, Silicon Power A80 2TB NVME
  • PSU: Corsair AX760
  • Display: Samsung C27JG56 27" 2560x1440 144Hz Freesync
  • Cooling: Corsair H115i RGB
  • Keyboard: GMMK TKL(Kailh Box White)
  • Mouse: Glorious Model O-
  • Headset: SteelSeries Arctis 7
  • OS: Windows 10 Pro

BigBox (HTPC):

  • CPU: Ryzen 5800X3D
  • Motherboard: Gigabyte B550i Aorus Pro AX
  • RAM: Corsair Vengeance LPX 2x8GB DDR4-3600 @ 3600MHz 14-14-14-28
  • GPU: MSI RTX 3080 Ventus 3X Plus OC, de-shrouded, LM TIM, replaced mem therm pads
  • Case: Fractal Design Node 202
  • Storage: SP A80 1TB, WD Black SN770 2TB
  • PSU: Corsair SF600 Gold w/ NF-A9x14
  • Display: Samsung QN90A 65" (QLED, 4K, 120Hz, HDR, VRR)
  • Cooling: Thermalright AXP-100 Copper w/ NF-A12x15
  • Keyboard/Mouse: Rii i4
  • Controllers: 4X Xbox One & 2X N64 (with USB)
  • Sound: Denon AVR S760H with 5.1.2 Atmos setup.
  • OS: Windows 10 Pro

Harmonic (NAS/Game/Plex/Other Server):

  • CPU: Intel Core i7 6700
  • Motherboard: ASRock FATAL1TY H270M
  • RAM: 64GB DDR4-2133
  • GPU: Intel HD Graphics 530
  • Case: Fractal Design Define 7
  • HDD: 3X Seagate Exos X16 14TB in RAID 5
  • SSD: Inland Premium 512GB NVME, Sabrent 1TB NVME
  • Optical: BDXL WH14NS40 flashed to WH16NS60
  • PSU: Corsair CX450
  • Display: None
  • Cooling: Noctua NH-U14S
  • Keyboard/Mouse: None
  • OS: Windows 10 Pro

NAS:

  • Synology DS216J
  • 2x8TB WD Red NAS HDDs in RAID 1. 8TB usable space
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@HairlessMonkeyBoyAnd how did he "un-overclock" his system? Unless he does a full CMOS reset, you can't be sure any remnants of the OC attempt are gone. further testing needs a methodical approach: test one RAM stick, no drives. If stable, add more RAM. If all RAM is stable, add drives, again, one at a time. And so on.

"You don't need eyes to see, you need vision"

 

(Faithless, 'Reverence' from the 1996 Reverence album)

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2 hours ago, HairlessMonkeyBoy said:

You have the RAM installed in the correct slots? And you've tried running it at 1600MHz?

 

image.png.c43b25b1cec6de5bb519b4e1e075bc4b.png

Yes, I have put them in the correct configuration, also Tried running @ 1600mhz, even 1333mhz. I can't tell if it really helped or not, but It kind of have felt like lower clockspeeds on the ram have somewhat been resulting in less of these type of crashes. But as I mentioned before, it doesn't really seem to matter and I've been trying so many things, sometimes it just works better for maybe a week if I'm lucky, then quite often when i "jinx" it, yeah actually almost every time when I say something like "Wow, maybe I've finally sorted it out" then It comes back, and wow, it's almost as if I'm being punished by some outer force, because it tend to come back with these crashes A LOT, even more then usual. It's literally driving me crazy, as I've always been able to fix or at least find out what the problem is.

I'm not a rookie in this, been building tweaking and fixing computers for almost 3 decades for myself and many many other. That's why this thing drives me nuts. Going to try my gf's RAM modules, see if anything changes. (Didn't have any extra modules before she got her computer which is quite recent)

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2 hours ago, Dutch_Master said:

If you're OC-ing and you have stability issues, DON'T OC! Do a full CMOS reset on the system and let it run some benchmarks for a day or so. Keep it stock speeds, so NO OC!

 

First rule of overclocking: if you can't, don't.

Think I did that quite recently, but to make sure I just did it again. But no I have not been OC'n anything since I got the XEON, well I tried it but not too much (BCLK) Couldn't go that far without disabling my PCI-E M.2 controller cards though. Basically the only thing I've been focusing on have been to add some extra voltages on memory controllers and what not. Never too far, as in, keeping within grey area so to speak. Done that of course to see if it would help with the problems.

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